Category Archives: Tips for the Teacher

OVER THE HILL – A CHEF’S PERSPECTIVE

30 Friday Dec 2016

Posted by in Restaurant success, Tips for the Teacher, Tips on Restaurant Team Building

≈ 5 Comments

over-the-hill

Still one of my favorite and sobering quotes comes from the band “Little Feat” when they proclaimed: “You know – that you’re over the hill when you mind makes a promise that your body can’t fill.” It would be false to claim that the aging process doesn’t take a toll. We steadily lose many of the physical attributes of youth as we age – this is the natural course, and although with exercise, good nutrition, and a health maintenance plan you can slow down the impact of aging – the changes that come are inevitable.

Chefs live on the edge for a significant part of their lives. They work excessive hours, stand on their feet all day long, pick up things that are too heavy, work in conditions of extreme heat and noise, eat poorly, feel the constant stress from every direction, and cut and burn themselves on a regular basis (oh, and when we are young we add in a fair amount of hefty play time). This steady, intentional battering intensifies the impact of aging – physically, mentally, and emotionally. So when a person claims that a chef or cook is over the hill – there is good reason to believe that this is likely the case.

On the other hand, this change is very individual and need not impact at all on a chef’s importance to an organization; in fact, when managed correctly, an aging chef may very well be increasingly valuable to an organization. So – what do we lose and what do we gain?

I have often stated that cooking on the line is a young person’s game. I hold true to this observation and can quickly site why this statement is true:

WHAT WE LOSE:

[]         PHYSICAL STAMINA

Standing on your feet for 10-12 hours a shift, working under excessive heat, moving constantly to stay ahead of the game, lifting 50-pound sacks of onions, flour, potatoes, and carrots, and lugging around 20 quart pots of stock and sauce, is reserved for those with strong backs, fresh knees, and shoulders that have yet to show the sag of decades of abuse.

[]         CONSCIOUS MIND STAMINA

The amount of “in-progress” cooking that a line cook must keep floating around in his or her conscious mind is far beyond a typical 50 year-olds ability. A line cooks mind is pummeled with relentless orders and plate organization every night. Keeping in mind that we naturally lose rapid-fire ability and front and center capacity to remember these things, it is easy to understand why young minds are better- acclimated to this work.

[]         RECOVERY TIME

I know that in many respects I can still work as hard, and nearly as fast as many cooks who are less than half my age. The problem is that it takes me two days to recover from one 12-14 hour shift in the kitchen.

[]         SHORT-TERM MEMORY

Younger cooks have the ability to listen, collect, assimilate, and use information that comes to them throughout a shift with relative ease. You know you are starting to feel the impact of age when you ask the expeditor every 5 minutes for an “all day” review of the orders impacting your station.

[]         A DETERIORATING PALATE

As we age many of our taste buds and olfactory sensors start to slip in to atrophy. When younger, these sensors do replace themselves, but somewhere between age 50 and 60, we lose them at a faster rate and their recovery is negligible.

Now, this is all very true, and only in rare cases will you see a line cook or chef work a busy line when they are over 40, let alone later in their career. Again, there are ways to work at improving and lengthening a cook’s abilities in these areas, but the change will still come at some point. Chefs simply need to accept this and move on with a new strategy – a strategy that takes full advantage of a new set of skills that come with age, and rarely before.

SKILLS THAT IMPROVE WITH AGE:

[]         WISDOM

Being smart and being wise are quite different. As we age and acquire more experience we tend to look at and use the knowledge that we have accumulated in a more profound manner. A young culinary school graduate may have an extensive base of knowledge about cooking, but lacks the wisdom to use it properly and draw full advantage from it. Those with maturity in the position are able to appreciate what they are able to do and understand their own shortcomings. When they have shortcomings – chefs may seek the advice of others where a young cook may choose to drive ahead with reckless abandon. Knowing the difference is wisdom.

“Knowing others is intelligence; knowing yourself is true wisdom.” 

–Lao Tzu

“The great thing about getting older is that you don’t lose all the other ages you’ve been.”

-Madeleine L’Engle

[]         NEW FOUND PATIENCE

One characteristic of cooks and young chefs is a universal lack of patience with people and situations. This leads to the all too commonplace friction in kitchens that occasionally accelerates into some pretty intense encounters. As we age it is fairly common to find that we discover that patience truly is a virtue that reaps countless benefits. Pulling people along rather than kicking them in the ass is typically a much better motivational tool.

[]         THE EXPERIENCE OF MISTAKES

It would be very difficult to problem solve unless you have gone through the experience of screwing up. Everyone else in a restaurant looks to the chef to have the experience and wisdom to pull them out of a problem situation and make the right decisions. Although it is always best to avoid mistakes, some of the best decisions are drawn from those that we make.

[]         REASON

“Do it because I said so” is a response from the inexperienced. Time is a great stage setter for being able to know and apply the “why” to a decision. In rare cases the young may have this ability, but for the most part – age is a great contributor to the ability to reason.

[]         NO SHORTAGE OF IDEAS, BUT THE ABILITY TO PRIORITIZE THEM

Chefs are able to make sense of the great ideas that float around in their heads as well as those of their staff members – front and back of the house. This ability to prioritize as doable immediately, in time with some effort, and far fetched, but great to dream, is directly related to experience in the role and maturity as a kitchen professional.

[]         A BIT MORE COMMON SENSE

Common sense is not so common and if it does exist, chances are, common sense comes from a series of failures that allowed chefs to apply the experience to problem solving.

[]         CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM

Mature chefs are never shy with a dusting of optimism, but as they age, and with the right experiences, chefs are able to temper their enthusiasm with touches of reality. This will help to minimize poor decision making that comes from a naïve outlook on what will work and what won’t.

[]         A BIG PICTURE APPROACH

Age allows chefs to separate the emotion from a systematic approach towards decision-making. Chefs must look at the financial implications, impact on staff performance and morale, how the decision marries with the operation’s brand, and how the public will view a decision. Rash decisions can quickly turn a restaurant in the wrong direction.

[]         A FLAVOR MEMORY BANK

Although a cooks taste buds may falter with age, a seasoned chef (no pun intended) can still visualize how a dish should and will taste based on quality of ingredients, cooking methods used, and how it is seasoned.

[]         THE ABILITY TO SAY NO AND THE UNDERSTANDING TO SAY YES

The normal inclination of a cook or chef, and the training that we all go through points to only one answer: “yes”. Although this may be the right method in a service economy – a chef will factor in the ability of the operation to deliver an exceptional product, other demands on the kitchen at that time, the cost/benefit relationship of the decision, and how an event or product fits with the brand and philosophy of the restaurant. Occasionally, the best decision is to say “no”. Only age and experience will allow this to happen.

[]         AN UNDERSTANDING OF, AND WILLINGNESS TO ADMIT WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW

Age sets the stage for chefs to stand up and say: “This does not fit in my (our) wheelhouse. Once this statement is part of the consideration then a chef can either decide to say “no”, or find the necessary talent and skills to attempt a new task.

[]         AN EXPANSIVE NETWORK OF INFLUENCE

Age and time allows the chef to build a support mechanism of advisors who can help with any and all business decisions. This network takes many years to develop.

[]         WILLPOWER THAT MATCHES THE PHYSCIAL STAMINA DRAIN

All of that desire to “play as hearty as you work” is tempered by professionalism and the knowledge that chefs need to separate work and play and be the rule and positive example rather than the exception.

[]         ENOUGH TIME IN THE TRENCHES TO LEAD AND AN APPRECIATION FOR THOSE WHO ARE STILL ON THE FRONT LINES

The further a professional chef moves from the trenches, the more he or she learns to appreciate those who do the real work of cooking and serving. A chef can’t manage a person unless he or she has done their job at the highest level. Age is the differentiator.

[]         AN APPRECIATION FOR TRYING AND ZERO TOLERANCE FOR THOSE WHO DON’T

Chefs know that even if a cook fails to meet the standards of excellence for the property – if they have the right attitude and give it their all – then the rest can be taught. If the attitude is not there, then there is little hope that the individual will be successful. This understanding only comes when a chef spends enough quality time with staff, and years of experience.

[]         AN INNATE ABILITY TO PICK THE RIGHT EMPLOYEES

Mature chefs have seen it all. They know what is required of staff members – above and beyond the talent to cook. Mature chefs have an uncanny ability to select team members with the professional chemistry to become an asset rather than a liability.

[]         A DESIRE TO TRAIN AND MENTOR ENTHUSIASTIC COOKS

As a chef ages, he or she begins to realize that his or her real responsibility is to teach, train, mentor, and celebrate the success of others.

“The fun thing about getting older is finding younger people to mentor.”

-Mike May

As I turned 66 this week, the whole challenge of aging was quite prominent in my thinking. Although I am not enamored with the aches, pains, and physical limitations of aging, I am still thrilled to point to what age has provided.   I could not do what I do today if it had not been for the time I had in the trenches, the joy of winning and the agony of defeat, the challenges of trying to find balance and the time now to realize it, the cuts and burns, swollen feat and hands, trips to the chiropractor, headaches and stress induced meltdowns that accompany being a cook and becoming a chef. We need to take the bad with the good and know that the positive column is far more robust. As my doctor once told me when I was moaning about some aches and pains and stated to him that getting old kind of “sucks” – he said: “The alternative to getting older is not so good.”

Am I “over the hill?” – not quite yet, but I do have the wisdom to pick my hills with considerable thought. Sometimes a nice, flat hike is just as rewarding.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Over the hill is a state of mind

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

**Photo taken with the Prisma app.  With my good friend Kevin at the Three Penny Taproom.  We’re not over the hill yet.

Image

THINGS THAT EVERY CULINARY SCHOOL GRADUATE MUST REMEMBER

12 Monday May 2014

Tags

, , , , ,

THINGS THAT EVERY CULINARY SCHOOL GRADUATE MUST REMEMBER

This is the time of the year when culinary schools pass out diplomas and send their graduates out into the world of professional cooking. These young culinarians are eager, full of energy and loaded with ambitious ideas about who they are, what they are capable of today and where will be in a short period of time. Many are ready and some are not, but with that degree in hand they step outside in pursuit of their dreams. As graduates begin the process of starting their career I always feel compelled to leave them with a checklist that will, I am sure, serve them well in the years to come. These are not my thoughts alone; they represent the collective feelings of chefs, managers, fellow cooks and restaurateurs with whom I have had the pleasure to work. So..I would encourage each graduate to read and re-read these thoughts or lessons, fold them and keep them in your wallet for reference multiple times during your career with food.

1. TREASURE TRADITIONS: The profession of cooking has a long and arduous history. Many, many chefs came before you and tirelessly worked to build a place for cooking in the halls of serious professionals. How they looked, acted, approached others, relished food and the processes that they developed over decades will always and should always have a place in your consciousness and in your actions as a serious cook. Don’t forget what came before.
2. BE PATIENT: Your career is a journey, not a destination. It will likely take you 5 years or so to get to that first sous chef position and maybe another 5-10 before reaching Executive Chef. This is an investment you must be willing to make.
3. STAY PROFESSIONAL: Yes, there are numerous examples of unprofessional kitchen environments to choose from. There are those who yell and scream, belittle and undermine, treat others with contempt, fail to thank but rather choose to always find fault; those who are careless with product and do not respect their commitment to the source, the place or the guest. Do not fall into the trap. You have been taught to take the high ground. Stay there and be the example for others.
4. RESPECT OTHERS: One of the most beautiful things about working in kitchens is that they are some of the most diverse working environments to be found anywhere. This is a fantastic opportunity for you to learn about other cultures and beliefs. Remember that at least in the kitchen everyone is equal. Respect others for who they are and they will respect you.
5. YES CHEF: As much as you think you know, there is so much more to learn. The person who holds the title of chef has invested many years to reach the position that he or she currently holds. It is his or her kitchen! The best way to learn and set a path for professional growth is to respect the chain of command and know that if the chef expects something done a certain way, your response should always be YES CHEF (unless it violates rule #3 and in that case still say Yes Chef but start looking for a new environment).
6. THE FOUNDATIONS WILL NEVER DO YOU WRONG: All those hours that you spent in your foundational classes in school were the most important parts of your education. How to hold a knife, vegetable cut dimensions, the basic cooking methods, how to caramelize, the proper way to build a stock, etc. are relevant no matter what style of cooking or type of food that you will work with.
7. KEEP YOUR KNIVES SHARP: Each day before you start your shift make sure that your tools are in order. Use a stone and keep that chef’s steel close to your work area. A sharp knife makes the work much easier, reduces the opportunity for injury (as long as you respect the knife) and is kinder to the product you are working with. A serious chef will check your knives and know how serious you are as a cook.
8. SANITATION AND FOOD SAFETY IS YOUR OBLIGATION: Nothing is more important than proper food handling and your commitment to the safety and well being of your guest. Don’t ever forget those rules of operation that were taught in Food Sanitation.
9. RESPECT THE SOURCE: Food is not something that simply appears off the tailgate of your local or regional food vendor’s truck. A farmer, producer or manufacturer somewhere dedicated their passion to preparing those raw materials for your hands. It is the dedication of the farmer that makes a carrot delicious. Your job is to protect, nurse and define those natural flavors.
10. BE DEPENDABLE: You will quickly learn that the most important trait of a kitchen employee is being dependable. Will they show up on time, with the right attitude, prepared to work and consistent in their approach to their responsibilities? Be the example. The chef can work with any other shortcomings, but a lack of dependability has no place in a kitchen.
11. LEARNING NEVER STOPS: The diploma in your hand is not an end game. Walking across that stage was just the beginning of your formal education. Every day in the kitchen provides a new opportunity to learn something that was not part of your repertoire before or improve on something that you are familiar with. Grab on to every opportunity to learn and know that SOMETIMES THAT MIGHT MEAN “OFF THE CLOCK”!
12. LOOK CHALLENGES SQUARELY IN THE EYE: “I can’t”, just doesn’t fly. When a person says, “I can’t” what they really mean is: “I won’t”. If you don’t know how then ask or research the answer. You will never further your career unless you understand that the only answer is YES, I WILL.
13. STAY HEALTHY: You will be of little use to a chef if you are not in good health. Eat a balanced diet, exercise, maintain a healthy weight, see a doctor yearly, drink in moderation, get enough sleep and maintain those important relationships with friends and significant others. It is the WHOLE person who will become that successful chef in the future.
14. TAKE CARE OF YOUR FEET: You may think that this is a redundant statement after #13, but your feet are SO IMPORTANT to your well being as a cook. Buy the right shoes, change them during long shifts, wear white socks when working, soak them after those twelve -hour days and never take them for granted.
15. RESPECT THE EQUIPMENT IN THE KITCHEN: You will quickly learn that equipment will not hurt a person; it is the person who does not respect the equipment who will hurt him or herself. Meat slicers (if I see another person cleaning a slicer while it is still plugged in I will go ballistic) are only dangerous in the wrong hands, pressure and convective steamers will only burn those people who don’t use common sense, wet towels and hot pans do not work well together, liquids and hot oil in a pan are not friends, 10 gallon stock pots full of liquid that is not properly lifted and carried will be unforgiving to your back, and that great tool: the mandoline will do the same things to your fingers that it does to a zucchini (use protective gloves or a guard when slicing). Then there is the cost of all that equipment that must be shown respect. The blade from the Robot Coupe does not belong in the pot sink (you use it – you clean it), the dicing blade for that same machine falls under the same rules. Each piece of that equipment will cost the operation hundreds of dollars to replace because of your carelessness.
16. WE ARE ALL DISHWASHERS IN GOD’S EYES: An idle moment in the kitchen is a chance to jump in and help someone else. That dishwasher has an awful job, but one that is absolutely crucial to the restaurant. Help him or her out! Ten minutes jumping in on the dish machine or washing some of your own pots will show that person that you care and be reflective of point #4.
17. BECOME A SERVICE PIONEER: We work so that others may play. The guest is the guest and your task is to allow them to have an exceptional experience in the restaurant. Don’t fight their requests, learn to adapt and WOW them with your desire to go the extra mile.
18. READ, TRAVEL AND INVEST IN BUILDING THE RIGHT FRIENDS: Great chefs are worldly individuals who understand other cultures either through hands-on experiences or at least by reading as much as they can about them. Broaden your horizons, associate with other cooks who are equally interested in this endeavor and make the investment in this important part of your life.
19. BUILD YOUR NETWORK OF INFLUENCE AND STAY CONNECTED: Join professional organizations like the American Culinary Federation, Retail Bakers Association, National Restaurant Association, Chefs Collaborative, Slow Food, USA, Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, etc. and make a list of those individuals and groups that would be beneficial to your career. Seek them out, introduce yourself and stay connected. Most importantly – find a mentor who is willing to take you under his or her wing and offer you honest and sincere advice along the way. All of these connections may be integral to your future.
20. INVEST IN BUILDING YOUR BRAND: How do you want people to view you? When individuals call your references how would you like those people to portray you? What words would accurately describe the type of person and cook you are? Spend the time and invest the effort in clearly defining and maintaining this image. It is your brand that will be important in the future. Remember it is hard work to build a positive brand, but only takes a single mistake to ruin it. Be aware of this, even with the little things like: the message on your voicemail, the posts of you on Facebook, what you say on Twitter, how you dress and groom yourself, the language that you use and so many other things that will set the tone for your brand. Do what you want, but be aware of how you may be perceived.
21. GIVE BACK: You are fortunate to have a degree or the experience to hold down a significant job. Others have helped you along the way. You are able to work at a job that gives you immense satisfaction. Your career, if you set the stage properly, will have very few limitations. Knowing this should occasionally give you pause. Take that minute to do something for others. Volunteer at a soup kitchen, teach a class, help a farmer, donate to a worthy cause, work on a fund raising dinner, take the time to thank your teachers and give back to the college or school of hard knocks that brought you to this place. Food people are very generous – be one of them.

You have chosen a fantastic career. Foodservice will provide you with a great deal of satisfaction, some trials and tribulations, opportunities to grow and experience other parts of the country or world, meet interesting and passionate people, serve others and bring sunshine to their day and create beautiful food with your own hands. It is a truly special career track and you should feel fortunate to be part of it. Best of luck –make your success – it is in your hands.

I would recommend two essential books for your early library. Rush out (I am serious) today to purchase them. This is your first “post graduate” investment in your future.

Letters to a Young Chef by: Chef Daniel Boulud

Tasting Success by: Chef Charles Carroll

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

Posted by | Filed under Continuing Education for Food Professionals, Tips for the Teacher, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Image

THE IMPORTANCE OF LEARNING TO MAKE THINGS

10 Monday Mar 2014

Tags

, , , , , ,

THE IMPORTANCE OF LEARNING TO MAKE THINGS

Progress isn’t always for the better. I have taught for many years that America is now a service-based economy and that this transition is a natural progression that we must learn to adapt to. The problem is that we are forgetting how to make things. We are terrific users of goods and outstanding providers of the services that drive our economy, yet is this really progress?

What was most telling to me was an interview a while back with Tim Cook from Apple when he was asked why so many of their products were outsourced overseas (that is beginning to change by the way) and his response was unexpected. I am paraphrasing, but in essence he said it was less to do with the cost of manufacturing in the United States as it was the difficult time they had finding people with the right skills to do the work. Wow! Ironically, I get a similar response from chefs and restaurateurs when asked why they don’t hire more students from culinary schools.

If you look back, not too far back, you can see how quickly things have changed. In the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s, every student who attended elementary school and sometimes into high school was enrolled in either “shop” (wood or metal) or “home economics” where they built some foundational building or cooking skills. In both cases students were learning how to make things with their hands. There is something incredibly gratifying about building anything that takes form. It is a life skill that allows people to see, touch and experience the power of learning.

As a teacher, I have always found that the tactile experience that students have with making things benefits them in more ways than simply the thrill of creation. Making things requires students to use, really use those core academic skills that will allow them to carrying on with a successful career in the future. To build requires math, communication, physics, sometimes chemistry, problem solving, teamwork, physical conditioning, analysis and in many cases an understanding of history and other social sciences. To build and create is to become a well-rounded individual with opportunities to be successful in a career and in life.

Some students may use this skill of building as a stepping stone for a career in the trades while others utilize the planning and problem solving applications associated with making things in other careers that may not require them to build or fix, but rather lead others in the accomplishment of those tasks.

Physiologically, the human body is designed to build things whether it is a house, computer, automobile or plate of restaurant quality food. Our hands are two of the best tools ever designed with the ability to sense, feel, manipulate and mold a product into something that is wonderful to see, use, experience or even taste. Your body, with its intricate muscle and bone structure is calibrated to move to the needs of instruments of design and construction, lift, carry, turn and deliver. Everything about the body is built to be creative and to make things that work and satisfy. We were not designed simply to hold a keyboard. To not properly use the body in this fashion is depriving that human form of its rightful use. To not allow a student to actively use the body in this fashion, to not demonstrate and teach them how to unleash the potential of this human creative machine is to deprive them of their birthright and an enormous sense of satisfaction.

Teachers are always looking for ways to allow the “light bulb to turn on” in the classroom; I can tell you from experience that it happens easily and often when the student is allowed to apply knowledge to the creation of a tangible product.

I have wondered why there is such a surge of interest in pursuing careers in culinary arts and the more I investigate the more I come to the same conclusion: people love to create, they have a real desire to make things for themselves and for others, to realize that sense of purpose when something that they invest their time in takes physical form.

America grew as a country based on our ability to make things better, faster and more efficiently than anyone else. Edwards Deming pushed American industry to constantly look at the creation of value based on the highest level of consistent quality, at the most appropriate price. What he never would have imagined was that we would fail at teaching new generations how to visualize and have the skills necessary to actually make things to manage in this fashion.

Educo is the Latin root word for Education. The literal translation of this word means to draw forth. When education works it is because teachers succeed in building those tangible skills in their students allowing them to participate in their own enlightenment, their own education. As a society we must consider spending more time training as part of the educational process and then allow our young people the freedom to create and build. In his recent book: “Shop Class at Soulcraft, An Inquiry Into the Value of Work”, Matthew Crawford wrote:

“For those who felt hustled off to college, then to the cubicle, against their own inclinations and natural bents, Shop Class as Soulcraft seeks to restore the honor of the manual trades as a life worth choosing. On both economic and psychological grounds, Crawford questions the educational imperative of turning everyone into a “knowledge worker,” based on a misguided separation of thinking from doing, the work of the hand from that of the mind.”

This same principle can be applied to those classes in culinary arts or home economics, art and music that build an environment when students can take their acquired knowledge, build things that have substance and demonstrate the innate abilities that everyone is born with.

There is a national debate taking place around “core curriculum” and defining what is important and critical in America’s education model. I would suggest that any core curriculum involve hands on application through courses that show and allow students to participate in the process of making things. Whether our young people take these core skills to a career in the kitchen, the wood shop, the engineering firm, or the computer company is not the issue, the issue is providing them with the skills to chose to move in those directions if they want and to have the ability to do so.

Not everyone can become a chef, but everyone can learn to cook and feel the satisfaction derived from creating a dish. Not everyone can become a woodworker, architect, electrical engineer, computer designer or graphic artist, yet everyone can benefit from the skills that are the foundation of all of these trades. In the process they will learn how applicable all of the “core concepts” are to life. Math, communication, social science, physics and chemistry are essential in any and every tactile profession. Let’s train and teach at the same time, it is what education should be about.

Support the trade and tactile skill classes in your local school – it is important!

PLAN BETTER- TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

Posted by | Filed under Tips for the Teacher, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Image

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A COOK AND A CHEF

14 Sunday Jul 2013

Tags

, , , , ,

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A COOK AND A CHEF

A few years back I read of an interview with a prominent chef who was asked: “what is the difference between a chef and the millions of cooks throughout America.” The response, to me, was a perfect definition: “Most reasonably intelligent people can follow a recipe with mixed results, a chef can be given a basket of ingredients and is able to create something wonderful.” Although this is an over-simplification, there is a real element of truth to this statement. A chef is certainly a manager and a leader, a cost accountant and a marketer, a social scientist and an organizational guru; but above all, a chef is a passionate and accomplished cook.

The ability to “create something wonderful”, stems from a persons ability to draw from his/her flavor memory. A serious cook must be a person who has experienced a full array of flavors, taste combinations, foods at their peak of maturity, seasonings, and texture combinations. Without this “data bank” it would be nearly impossible to create magic with food. To go even further, chefs have life experiences that are filled with an understanding of history and various cultures. It would be difficult to cook wonderful Spanish foods without understanding the culture of Spain, it would be challenging to understand classical French food without studying Ferdinand Point, Larousse, Escoffier, Careme, Bocuse, Robuchon and Verge. To cook French you must feel like you are French, to cook Italian, Mexican, Scandinavian, or Thai, you must understand the culture of those countries and most importantly have cooked with those who were born into those cultures.

“A recipe has no soul…..” was a quote from Thomas Keller, truly one of America’s great chef’s of the past few decades. This should not be viewed as an endorsement for kitchens without structure; just the contrary. I am sure that Keller has his own version of the standardized recipe, however what he and most accomplished chefs know is that a recipe does not create a cook. The recipe is a reference, but the cook must draw from his/her flavor memory and understanding of culture to build the recipe into a great dish. There are just far too many variables that come into play (seasonality, maturity, size, terroir, brand, shipping, storage, etc.) to rely on a recipe as the consummate guide in cooking. Some of the best cookbooks that I have used such as: “Le Repertoire de la Cuisine”, only list the ingredients in a dish without procedure or amounts. The ingredient list is a reminder for the chef who knows, though experience, what a dish should look and taste like, and the method of cooking that is appropriate for the outcome of that dish.

Those who have a desire to become great cooks and chefs must live the following: taste everything, experience as many different cooks work as possible, travel and experience cultures, read about the history of food, learn from the best, taste again and record your experiences. Keep recipes as a guide but cook with your soul.

Kudos to Thomas Keller for getting it right.

Posted by | Filed under Continuing Education for Food Professionals, Tips for the Teacher

≈ Leave a comment

Realistic Expectations for Culinary School Graduates

24 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by in Tips for the Teacher

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

, , , , , ,

This is an article that I posted two years ago regarding the expectations that young graduates of culinary education oftentimes have when first entering a professional kitchen. I felt that it fit well with the series of recent posts that I made regarding line cooks, bakers and the path that they take en route to the position of “chef”. So, forgive the “repost”, but hopefully you will note the timeliness of the content.

I am not sure where it went wrong.  Maybe it is an over-zealous admissions staff, maybe it is the Food Network.  The source could be instructors hoping to inspire young people to early greatness or quite possibly it is the parent who truly believes that their son or daughter is born with the Emeril gene.  To some degree it is probably the “return on investment” need for instant payback on a very expensive culinary education, or who knows, quite possibly the work ethic in America has changed.  The end result is a plethora of culinary school graduates who truly believe that graduation should lead them immediately to the sous chef position and a very comfortable salary.

Having spent many years in culinary education, I am a strong advocate for the investment that a culinary degree provides. However, when I put on my chef hat, I want to tell every graduate that they need to be patient, vigilant, focused, attentive, and subservient for a period of time.  There is a part of the educational process that requires every student of culinary arts to pay their dues, add their foundational skills to the mix of “hard knocks” education, and learn how to respect any kitchen that they enter.

The first step cannot be – change the model.  The first step must be – learn how this model works and respect the chef’s domain.  Your time will come.

Kitchen work is very hard.  I know, everyone has heard that before, yet many graduates don’t seem to grasp that until they are really immersed in it day in, and day out.  The cooking part is really easy.  This is what the student loves to do.  This is what attracted them to the field in the first place.  This is what, rightfully so, culinary schools tend to focus on. Those who aspire to make this their career will quickly learn that it is people and financial performance that allow a restaurant to thrive and deliver that excellent food that they are so passionate about.

Managing people is extremely challenging because everyone is different.  Forget following the book – the book doesn’t understand your co-workers.  The styles and methods of working with and managing others is just a brush stroke.  You are trying to finish the painting.  Be patient!  Observe people and learn.  Develop your style as a culinary professional before you think about the first sous chef job.  It is those people who will allow you to be successful in that position.  Cooking will get you noticed, leading others will carry you through your career.

I think we need to address this very early on in the field of education.  Everyone needs to understand this from the admissions counselor to the teacher; from the administrator to the marketing director; from the parent to the student.  A quality culinary education is a means to an end, the first important page in the novel, that first brush stroke in a long and challenging career.

Those who have completed their education and hit that reality wall very quickly – know that it will work in the long-run, just be patient, be vigilant, be focused, listen and learn.  It may take a bit longer than you thought, maybe 5 years or so before that sous chef job is in sight, but it will happen if you understand the path.

What do you think?

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
psorgule@hotmail.com

Frustrated Artists, Adrenaline Junkies, Misfits and Real People

21 Saturday Jul 2012

Posted by in Tips for the Teacher, Tips on Restaurant Team Building

≈ 1 Comment

I love restaurant people- always have, always will.  What is it about this motley crew of unlikely team members that makes being a part of their family so enticing?

For my time in the kitchen I have been able to develop a rationale for how and why a culinary team is built and what draws people to this truly insane business.  First, nearly every cook, server, chef, and dishwasher who has been in the business more than a few years shares one deep-rooted commonality: they are frustrated artists.  I have worked with line cooks who are incredible guitarists, drummers, keyboard players and masters of the harmonica (harp).  They love this form of expression but have found it very difficult to earn a steady paycheck.  Others, in their spare time are quite good at drawing, painting, and even sculpting, but alas can’t find a sole to fork over any cash for their work.  I have even found prolific writers disguised as cooks hoping for a chance to express themselves in print some time.

What draws them to the kitchen is not just a paycheck, but the ability to show their artistic ability on a plate.  This is the only art form that appeals to all human senses and unlike painting, music and writing, there is usually immediate feedback from those who are paying for your work.  Just like the artist who is devastated by a bad review of their music, painting or novel, look into the eyes of a cook when a guest says that they don’t like the food that they purchased.

Second, there is a natural high that comes from working in a busy, demanding kitchen.  While some fall by the wayside under the stress, many others thrive on the adrenaline rush that comes from a board full of dupes, a window full of finished plates waiting for a server, a station at capacity with guests, and cooks or servers who are “in the zone” and loaded for bear.  Long-time restaurant people are lured into this environment for the rush.  If you have not experienced this it may seem odd, for those who are part of the “family” you definitely know what I am talking about.

The downside to this is that the older you get (and remember kitchen jobs are measured in dog years – 7 for every 1 served), the harder it is to keep up with the rush and recover for another round tomorrow.

Third, restaurant people don’t seem to fit in with “regular” folks.  They don’t understand 9-5, they don’t seem to relate to 8 hours of sleep, they are typically inclined to socialize with only others who are in the profession, they are uncomfortable talking about things other than food, music, acting, or high intensity sports and they tend to ignore the long-term and focus on today.  Yes, to many outsiders restaurant people are “misfits”.

Finally, and most importantly from my perspective, restaurant people are “real”.  This is why I love them.  What you see is what you get.  They are very transparent, speak their minds (at least to other restaurant people), are dependable (if not they are usually encouraged to leave), are trustworthy (or they are not encouraged to join the club) and are interesting as hell.

In kitchens where I worked there was no bias about age, size, ethnicity, race, gender, sexual preference, political views (not that we don’t argue or kibitz about all of these), the key is “do you play well in the sandbox and do your work”.  We may make a few jokes now and then about each other, but if you are on the outside of the restaurant family, don’t ever make a snide remark about those who are inside.  We are all unified around support of those who wear the colors. My kind of people.

By the way, if you are thinking about entering the food business and none of the above makes sense to you, then you might be better off with another career choice.  This could be an interesting entrance exam for culinary and hospitality colleges:

1. Are you a frustrated artist?

2. Do you thrive on being crazy busy, relish stress, and enjoy having 15 things on your mind at once?

3. Do you find 8 hours of sleep each night a waste of time?

4. Would you prefer not knowing from week to week what your schedule will be?

5. Do you have any bias towards people who are “different”?

6. Oh, and by the way, how many tattoos do you have?

What are your kitchen experiences with this unique cadre of misfits?

Image

Anything worth doing is worth doing well

18 Wednesday Jul 2012

Posted by in Tips for the Teacher, Tips on Restaurant Team Building

≈ Leave a comment

I remember years ago talking to a friend in Buffalo who had just opened a phenomenal record store (some may remember records – those vinyl discs that gave us a world of music, along with scratches and pops).  The store was truly amazing.  As I walked around it was clear that he offered nearly anything and everything that was in circulation from R and B to Rock, from Country to Classical, and from Jazz to Sound Effects.

So, I asked him the obvious question:  “why would you stock so many records when in reality much of this music will never be sold.”  His answer still resounds as the driving force in what ever I choose to do: “my father always said, that anything worth doing is worth doing well.”

Applying this same philosophy to food, I find that all too often this mantra is not present in the minds and actions of some chefs, cooks and restaurateurs.  If this can become your filter, the end result would be a customer experience that would paint a much improved picture in the minds of many.

The question is: “do you use such a filter”?  Do you take extra care in the following areas:

[] making sure that you restaurant is spotless

[] making sure that you know the source of the foods that you buy and carefully inspect all raw materials through the filter of quality

[] Do you take care of the equipment that you use making sure that your employees know how to use it and care for it?

[] Do you religiously follow proper cooking methods in building your menu items?

[] Do you look at the plate as your canvas and take the opportunity to paint a beautiful picture, each and every time?

[] Do you or someone else inspect every plate before it leaves the kitchen?

[] Are your cooks trained to taste-season-and taste again (credit to Chef Michel LeBorgne)?

[] Do you care for every food item on the menu to insure that it reflects your food philosophy?

[] Do you instill the pride in uniform and pride in profession with every employee who works for you?

[] Do you treat everyone with respect as you would like to be treated yourself?

Think about the experience that customers and employees would have if more food “professionals” followed my friend’s simple philosophy: “anything worth doing is worth doing well”.

Make a poster in your restaurant with this mantra and begin to practice what separates the great from the average.