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Tag Archives: Bread

A GREAT RESTAURANT BEGINS WITH GREAT BREAD

11 Friday Mar 2016

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

bakers, baking, Bread, bread bakers, restaurants

 

bread

Central to a great meal, I mean a really great meal, and a memorable restaurant experience, is the quality of the bread served. From my own perspective, I assess the quality of a restaurant by this simple fact – bread is important, as important as any other ingredient. This being said, there are far too many restaurants that deprive its guests from the experience of exceptionally prepared bread.

“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” 
― James Beard

Much of the problem lies in the value that a business assigns to the crusty, chewy, full-flavored product made in the manner of ancient artisans. From a restaurant owner’s perspective – bread is expensive to produce and in the end it is given away freely to guests without the benefit of additional sales. It is almost relegated to “condiment” status and as such is treated in many cases without respect, care or passion.

Bread requires space, proper ovens, knowledge and talent, and most significantly – time. Bread is, after all, the original slow food that can require more time to prepare properly that a classically nurtured veal stock. There must be space for raw materials, adequate mixers, proofing space, ovens with a hearth and steam, bench space and cooling areas. Even though much bread baking can take place during that third kitchen shift, it still “interferes” with every other process that takes place in a kitchen. Bread bakers are different, in many cases, than your pastry chef. Bread baking requires you to roll up your sleeves, work on your biceps and abs allowing bakers to sling100 pound bags of flour while still maintaining a sensitive touch that can feel when the dough is right, sweat like a steel worker, accept the constant presence of flour in your hair, and deal with the relentless nature of damn hard work. There is far less need for finesse and that eye for plate presentation, and more need to create a “chew” that makes your jaw sore and tempts your palate with a level of food satisfaction that comes from the work of eating.

A chef who hopes to build a great restaurant experience without including extraordinary bread is truly missing the mark. Granted, many restaurants don’t have the space to do it right, and if that is the case they should probably avoid trying to create artisan bread by cramming the process into an inappropriate space. However, seeking out that passionate, hard working, totally dedicated baker who can service your needs as an outside vendor is as important as finding a source for great beef, incredibly fresh vegetables, and artisan cheese. In areas that do not have such a baker I would encourage local chefs to get together and seek out a baker to move to your area and in the same manner that small communities search for a doctor or dentist to establish roots in a town and encourage them to set-up shop. Yes, bread is THAT IMPORTANT.

I have been privileged to visit France, Germany, Austria, and England many times over the past thirty years and always reflect on how central a bread baker is to even the smallest village. One such village in Central Burgundy with a population of less than 1,000 was blessed with two artisan bread bakeries and a pastry shop. This is common throughout Europe. Great bread is always within walking distance. Why is it so hard to find the same in the U.S?

Bread bakers tend to be a bit eccentric, somewhat unique in their vision of life, but fully cognizant of how important their craft is. The decision to bake bread is more than a way to make a living; it is a way to bring the pleasures of life to others. Making great bread is a calling that requires individuals to work isolationist hours, work till their muscles ache and their lungs are filled with flour dust, and care for their starters like they are off-springs.

“Bread making is one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from some ancient ceremony. It leaves you filled with one of the world’s sweetest smells… there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of meditation in a music-throbbing chapel. that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread.” 
― M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

Bread baking, unlike many other baking processes, goes beyond knowing how to read a formula. Great bread bakers have a feel for the process. They know great flour by letting it flow through their hands, they understand the importance of good water, they sense when a bowl proof is ready for shaping and rounding by stretching a piece of dough to see how well the gluten has developed, and they can smell and hear when a loaf is sufficiently baked to yield that great crust and chewy internal texture. To bake great bread you have to know it, love it, and be one with it.

wheat

“What many bakers don’t realize is that good wheat can make bad bread. The magic of bread baking is in the manipulation and the fermentation. What has been lost….is this method.” 
― Lionel Poilane

I have a favorite story about a special bread baker with whom I had the pleasure to spend a few hours. To summarize it –his bread was his life. His life’s schedule evolved around the needs of the dough. Combine the dry ingredients and start the fire in wood ovens, sleep a few hours; mix and knead the wet ingredients and starter with the dry ingredients, shape and start the proof, sleep a few hours; check oven temperatures and status of the slow proof, sleep a few hours; slide the ready loaves into waiting ovens that have been serving his needs for decades – watch, smell, and tap to determine when the loaves are just right; feed the starter and allow it to continue to grow for another days work. This is it – the life of a dedicated artisan – each day, every day – this bread is the staff of life. This is what the baker does, it is who he or she is, and it is the contribution that they make to a full and enjoyable life.

In restaurants across the country, there is far too often a failure to recognize not just how significant the quality of these products might be and how they can enhance the diner’s experience; there is a lack of understanding of just what it takes to make exceptional bread.

It is far too easy to order above average bread products, arriving at your door in a frozen state, refresh them in an oven, and serve something that lacks much of the soul and passion that incredible bread, made by passionate bakers who have dedicated their lives to a product, can bring to any restaurant striving for greatness.

Bread bakers deserve our respect, and great bread should be the price of admission for any chef or restaurateur striving to build memorable experiences for diners. There is nothing like a superior piece of crusty bread slathered with quality butter.

Support your local bread baker.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

 

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AH…..BREAD AND BREAD BAKERS

18 Friday Apr 2014

Tags

bakeries, bakers, Bread, Bread Baking, chefs, Gerard, Lionel Poilane, Michael London, Nancy Silverton, Red Hen Bakery, restaurants

AH…..BREAD AND BREAD BAKERS

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight.” – M.F.K. Fischer

If line cooks are the heart of a kitchen then bread bakers must certainly be the soul. Great bread, not simply good bread, is absolutely essential in a respectable restaurant today. This was not always the case in America; in fact the concept of beautiful, crusty, artisanal bread is relatively new in this country. To my way of thinking restaurants became truly noteworthy once bread became important. Today, great bread is a critical piece in a chef’s bag of essential ingredients for success and the difference between a satisfactory guest experience and one that they talk about for weeks after. A chef cannot really build a first class restaurant without superior bread.

Let’s look back just a few years to see how much American palates have grown. Post World War II – America, in the eyes of a “Leave it to Beaver” utopian world was infatuated with the new marvels of food science. Pillow white and soft bread that was now delivered to your door – pre-sliced and ready to use. I can remember the days when bread, milk and other pastries were delivered to your door just like the daily paper. That bread in its protective plastic bag, soft as a pillow and more body than crust was the product that we all grew up on. It was what we became accustomed to and what we interpreted as good bread. I even remember insisting that my mother cut off the thin semblance of a crust before I would attempt to eat this “marshmallow” product.

Looking forward, this is what Julia Child had to say about this American staple:

“How can a nation be great if their bread tastes like Kleenex?” – Julia Childs

It would be Julia and her friend James Beard who would begin to change the U.S. palate for “real bread”, although it would take many years.
“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” – James Beard
WONDER BREAD (builds strong bodies in 12 different ways) was the bread of choice for decades. It represented, at the time, what America was all about and relegated the palate of U.S. citizens to an acceptance of mediocrity both in flavor and nutrition.
“Several advances in the nutrition and baking process were made during this decade. In 1941, Wonder Bread was involved in a government-supported move to enrich white bread with vitamins and minerals to improve nutrition. Known as the “quiet miracle,” bread enrichment nearly eliminated the diseases Beriberi and Pellagra and brought essential nutrients to people who previously could not afford nutritious foods. At the same time Wonder introduced a revolutionary new way of baking that eliminated holes in bread.”

http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/wonderbread.htm

Restaurants, particularly larger hotel operations had originally built bake shops and hired experienced bakers (typically European) to take care of their breads, pastries and elaborate desserts, but as the America palate changed and the cost of operating these portions of the restaurant kitchen became cost prohibitive, most operators eliminated or cut back on the size and scope of the baking operation. They began to purchase product from outside commercial bakeries to supplement their needs and in a short period of time the bakeshop became an afterthought.

As more and more restaurants entered the competitive market in the 60’s and 70’s, it became necessary for those restaurants and hotels to seek out a competitive edge. Due to the rebel approach by a few traditional bakers in the U.S., restaurants started re-introducing bakeshops and a better on-site product. Two in particular were Michael London from Saratoga Springs, New York and Nancy Silverton from Southern California.

MICHAEL LONDON:
“So after 10 years, he moved his bread-making operation to his 1805 farmhouse, renamed the Rock Hill Bakehouse. The “Bakehouse” was nothing more than an average-size kitchen, but it was promptly colonized by four tons of bread a week, laid to cool on a tarp on the lawn—loaves named the Annie and the Charlie, loaves that predated the great artisanal bread explosion of the late ’80s by several years.
London began to articulate his philosophy of baking: about using organic grains (or, better still, grains grown by the environmentally and spirituallyconscious farming method known as Bio dynamics); about doing everything, except the mixing, by hand; about making breads that express the genius loci, because bread should contain the spirit of the place where it’s made.
Rock Hill was soon squeezing out 20,000 loaves a week to satisfy Manhattan restaurants like Le Bernadin and Lespinasse. But London wasn’t interested in merely overseeing a production line. And so we come to The Oven. “I had always been determined to build an oven consistent with my vision of a bakery,” London explains. “It’s very important that bread be baked in a chamber where there’s been fire, so it wears a little ash.”
http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/londons-calling

NANCY SILVERTON and her husband Mark Peel were interested in baking quality breads to support their new restaurant and formed a separate company called La Brea Bread Company to produce for their operation and to wholesale some product to others. It grew into a larger production facility out of demand and eventually was sold to a larger distributor making their pre-baked product available to every restaurant across the country.

http://www.labreabakery.com

To each of these rebel bakers was the inspiration of the world master of bread: Lionel Poilane whose family business and philosophy continue to draw disciples throughout the world. Although his bakeries are in Paris, Paris outskirts and London, you can find his product in New York City, Boston, San Francisco and available overnight on-line. Poilane is considered by many to be the best bread in the world. Poilane, unfortunately passed away in recent years but his daughter carries on the traditions he established.
Pain Poilâne
One of the most prestigious boulangerie in Paris has been run by the Poilâne family for almost 80 years.The boulangerie was started in 1932 by Pierre Poilâne, creating the world famous Poilâne Miche by mixing: stiff levain, gray stone-ground whole wheat flour, spelt flour, gray sea salt from Guérande, water…. and then baking in a traditional wood fired oven. Pierre Poilâne’s core philosophy for products he sold was they should be made with the simple ingredients and be hand crafted. Pain Poilâne, a traditional whole-wheat peasant loaf, has a distinctive rich taste.It’s crumb is slightly sour and chewy and the crust is dark and earthy colored.It has become one of the most famous sourdough breads in France and throughout the world.

http://weekendloafer.com/2011/08/31/poilane-miche/

This brings me back to the original point: America now has a taste for great bread and the philosophies of Poilane, London, and Silverton ring clear as a new generation of bread bakers continue to perfect the artisan craft in communities from Vermont to Oregon. Every town needs a great bread bakery just like you find in France and every restaurant worth a grain of salt must begin with exceptional bread on their table.

The bread baker is a unique individual with a passion for the craft, a commitment to process, and an un-wavering focus on flavor and texture. Their life is different from anyone else and worthy of reverent respect. When a chef finds a great baker he or she will do everything in their power to protect that relationship. When a consumer finds a baker with the passion to produce bread like Pollane, London and Silverton they must bring them into the fold of their family of friends.

Bread Bakers seem to enjoy starting work in the very early morning hours, often find solace in working alone, love the feel of flour in their face, relish the heat of intense ovens and talk to their bread waiting for a response of doneness when tapping on the bread’s underbelly. Their job is physical, mentally challenging and even emotional at times. The process is a blend of science, art, passion, tradition and carries with it an almost spiritual nature.

Here are a few noteworthy bakeries (I am sure you could add dozens of your own):

Gerard Rubaud – Vermont (good luck finding a loaf of his bread – they sellout instantly)

Meet the Baker: Gérard Rubaud

Red Hen Bakery – Vermont (near perfection)

Home

Crown Point Bakery- Adirondacks of New York

https://www.facebook.com/crownpointbread

The Vergennes Laundry – Vergennes, Vermont

http://vergenneslaundry.squarespace.com/

On the nature of a baker –dedicated to his or her craft one should always note that as dedicated as chefs may be to the art and craft of cooking – they know their limits. Most chefs will readily admit that they are not bakers and thus have tremendous respect for those who are. Bakers make the kitchen alive with smells, artistic passion and shear dedication to product.

“In listening to Scherber talk poetically about the process of making bread, you can begin to understand the draw, the charm, and the reasons why bakers love what they do. Scherber reveals the wonder of working with something that is alive. “It is moving along at its own pace and you have to interpret the dough, absorb all the information it is giving you, and use your skills and knowledge to transform it into an exquisite loaf of bread. There is a truly rhythmic and organic nature to bread baking—a sense of flow and energy.”

Amy’s Breads – New York City
http://www.pastryscoop.com/2003/01/18/amy-scherber-amys-bread-renato-kopanski-balthazar-bakery-bread-baking/

BLESS THE BREAD BAKERS – THEY ARE THE SALT OF THE EARTH.

PLAN BETTER- TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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