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KITCHENS CELEBRATE DIFFERENCE

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Painted in Waterlogue

It has always been my experience that kitchens are the great equalizer. Sure, I know that the environment of a kitchen can sometimes be tough and abrasive, it’s hot, humid, noisy, stressful, fast paced, and somewhat unforgiving, but…..all that being said – the kitchen is a place where who you are and what you believe in is far less important than what you do and how well you do it. I always found it gratifying to walk into a kitchen and find diversity of color, ethnicity, language, age, gender, sexual orientation, and certainly culinary heritage. It is this melting pot that makes a kitchen buzz, that gives it personality and character – that makes each day an experience.

Personally, I have never understood blatant prejudice that is based on erratic and unfounded perceptions that an entire race, gender, nationality, age group, or for that matter any group of people identified as different can be problematic or not worthy of respect. Where does this come from? Is it based on geography, historic bias, generational bias, or isolationism? Is it based on one groups feeling of superiority over another? Or is it some level of genetic tendency towards hateful action?

My answer is: spend time working in a kitchen. We are all different and that is precisely what makes us interesting and important. In kitchen life is pretty clear – there is loads of quality work to be done, work that requires attention to detail, process, knowledge of ingredients, an educated palate, and a commitment to doing things right. You are either in tune with that, or you are not. If you are then no one cares about how different you may be, they care that you can do the work and do it well. Later on that “difference” can come into play as a real positive. It is that difference that brings history, traditions, cultural nuances, new flavors, and great systems ideas to make a restaurant kitchen function better and continue to exceed customer expectations.

angry chef

Spend a day in the kitchen and learn how those differences won’t separate you, but rather bring you together. To all chefs and operators – know that it is important to promote and support the environment where differences are celebrated and the unifying factor remains: can you do the job, are you willing to do the job, are you willing to learn how to improve, and will you strive for excellence in executing that job. Know that there are limitless opportunities to create a learning organization when we celebrate differences.

[]         HIRE COMPETENCE AND POSITIVE ATTITUDE

I know that this is already your method of operation, but it’s always an important reminder that what matters is their ability to do the job, willingness to learn how to do the job, commitment to excellence, and their all-in positive attitude. Everything else really doesn’t matter. It doesn’t matter if they are black, white, or brown; it doesn’t matter if they are young or old; it doesn’t matter if they are male or female, gay or straight; it doesn’t matter what their ethnic background is; it doesn’t matter if they are Republican or Democrat, Liberal or Conservative; it just doesn’t matter – they are all part of the kitchen team and united they stand, divided they fall.

[]         BUILD A WORK ENVIRONMENT OF RESPECT

As a chef or restaurant operator you set the tone for how the team treats each other. When you show respect for all people, regardless of how they might be different in some people’s eyes, then your team will emulate that approach. If some try to poison that environment of acceptance, inclusion and respect then they really do not belong on your team. There should always be the expectation of excellence, but never tolerance for exclusion or disrespect.

[]         TRAIN TOWARDS, INSIST UPON, AND SUPPORT EFFORTS TOWARDS EXCELLENCE

Some may try to cloud your approach by inferring that your respectful approach towards all is somehow a sign of weakness, but when you show respect while still building an environment of excellence then, and only then will you be able to build a winning team. Be respectful, but never drift from that insistence of excellence, that commitment to training toward excellence, and that support for all who view that as their obligation and motivation.

chuck and mickey

[]         BE FAIR AND EQUITABLE IN YOUR APPROACH

Respect begins with being equitable in your approach towards others. Again, when you focus on – can you do the job, are you willing to learn how to do the job, are you passionate about excellence, and do you view this commitment as your stake in the ground, and when you measure everyone on these attributes – then you will have built a real team.

[]         DO NOT TOLERATE DEMEANING INTERACTIONS IN YOUR KITCHEN

You are in control of the environment that people work in. When you tolerate ANY disrespect towards others, when you turn your eyes away from inappropriate, or hurtful behavior towards others, when you write it off as “that’s kitchen life”, or “you need to toughen up”, then the team will begin to crumble. Stay in control, teach and observe, call out poor behavior, and demonstrate through your own actions what the right approach should be.

[]         LISTEN TO DIFFERENCES AND BE WILLING TO LEARN FROM THEM

When you build an environment where people in your organization feel comfortable talking about their differences in a positive manner, when they are willing to share and you are willing to listen, then so much can be gained. We each bring powerful history, traditions, observations and ideas to the team if the team is open to what is presented. Build that environment and the whole organization can benefit.

changin

You know how this can work, if you have been in a kitchen you will understand the outcomes of both a positive and negative work environment, you know that the responsibility starts at the top, and you know that a person’s attitude and behavior is, to a large degree, a reflection of his or her environment. Set the stage for excellence, inclusion, and opportunity.

For those who struggle with acceptance – I encourage you to work in a kitchen – a place where a melting pot of differences helps to create a perfect dish.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

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THE COOK NEXT TO ME

02 Friday Nov 2018

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I thought I would chime in with all of the recent talk about immigrant workers in the U.S. One of the most significant reasons why I have always loved working in the restaurant business is the diversity of people with whom I have had the opportunity to stand next to at the range.   The is not, in any way shape or form, a political statement – it is rather a true feeling that has been at the core of my work for the past fifty years. It has been enjoyable, educational, eye opening, and rewarding to work and learn from people who shared the same feeling of satisfaction when cooking and serving others.

At the diner where I received my start, I worked with Millie who came to the United States from Poland, and settled in Buffalo. Her husband, also from Poland, was a chef by trade before he passed away and left Millie to fend for herself. She was a great cook, a wonderful teacher, and a friend who shared her breakfast station with a 16 year old with no experience whatsoever.

When I landed a position in the apprenticeship program at the Statler Hilton Hotel – I was immersed with a crew of people for Europe. Frenchie was from somewhere in central France – he had lived in the United States for 17 years and chose to never speak English. I sensed that he understood and could speak if he chose, but it was important for him to hang on to his cultural upbringing. He was a fabulous butcher (the hotel in those days purchased sides of beef, whole pigs and lambs, etc.) who showed me enough about butchery to give me a taste and show me that it was probably not my future career. Patsie was around 4 foot 10 inches tall (I think he was shrinking) who made all of the pastries, desserts, ice cream, and the like for the 1,200-room hotel. He didn’t have any full time help, just always an apprentice working through all of the stations on the property. His ice cream, from what I remember, was as good as it gets. Like Frenchie, no one seemed to know his real name, but he did, at least, speak in broken English. He was from Florence, Italy. And then there was Antonio who handled the lunch line for the Beef Barron Restaurant and was the resident saucier. He made all of the stocks and various sauces for the restaurants and enormous number of banquets that we served. Antonio, I think was from Sicily – he was skilled at making massive amounts of stocks, soups, and sauces in 100 gallon steam jacketed kettles.

You see – Buffalo, where I grew up, is as multi-cultural as New York City on a much smaller scale. There are sections of the city with an Italian population, another (The 1st ward) that is almost entirely Irish, a strong Polish population, a deeply rich African American section of town, and many other smaller ethnic areas all of which seemed to choose to protect their individuality and customs by keeping their populations as pure as possible. Yet throughout the city we all co-existed. It was, however, in the kitchen where the real magic happened. Kitchens are incubators for healthy integration of cultures all focused on a single purpose – cooking and service.

Later I worked for a Greek restaurateur at Shore’s Orchard Downs in Orchard Park – he taught me how to be frugal and conscience of every dollar spent by an operator in a restaurant. I worked with African American cooks, Jamaican Cooks, Austrian Chefs and Master Chefs. Italian Sous Chefs, English maître ‘d’s, Hispanic and Ethiopian Line Cooks, prep cooks from Mexico, Ecuador, Venezuela, and Puerto Rico; Garde Manger’s from Spain and Portugal, Russian servers, Korean prep cooks, dishwashers from every part of the world, pastry chefs from Austria and Switzerland, Ice Carvers from Japan, Bread Bakers from France and Switzerland, and Norwegians who made the most incredible Gravad Lox. This was quite an incredible lot of magnificently talented individuals with whom I worked over my time in the kitchen.

So what did I learn through the process of sharing workspace with this broad range of ethnic diversity? Well, I learned that when we share a common interest we are all the same. I discovered that nearly everyone feels the same passion for their country origin, yet is proud to be here on American soil. I learned to listen and wonder at the mastery that each of these people had for their set of skills. I built on my repertoire of cooking techniques as each shared what they could with everyone they connected with in the kitchen. I discovered that our differences paled in comparison to what we shared as human beings. I found out that the language of the kitchen compensates for a lack of understanding of each other’s birth language. I discovered that whenever we (native born Americans)_ complain about what we went through on a daily basis, most of these people of other cultures went through 100 times more to get where they were. And I learned that we all had dreams that we hoped could be fulfilled on American soil.

I know, after decades of working in busy operations that when we listen, respect, and show interest in a co-worker’s cultural background – that we can then depend on them to do the same with us. I know that all of these wonderful people want to do a good job, want to learn and grow, and want to express themselves with food and service.

Every time I visit another restaurant I know that I can walk in the kitchen, shake hands and give a thumbs up to cooks, servers, managers, owners, bakers, and dishwashers and receive a sincere smile in return. I make it a point to always thank the kitchen crew for the meal they prepared for me – I know how hard it is, I know how much soul goes into well-prepared food, and I know how important it is that kitchens are non-partisan, open environments where we relish the opportunity to work together.

My grandfather on my father’s side came to America from Norway at the age of 17. He was made a citizen in two weeks and then drafted to fight for America on French soil in WWI. My grandfather on my mother’s side was from England and Ireland and came to America to become a restaurateur (obviously my inspiration in later years). Like most Americans we can follow our lineage back a generation or two and find similar stories.

When I hear disparaging comments about immigrant workers in the U.S. I always reflect on my own experiences and know how much I relish the time I spent along side interesting, proud people from every part of the world. I know that without their presence my life would never have been this full.

We are a country of immigrants, of proud people who at some point came over to the United States to fulfill the dreams that each of us share for ourselves and our families. The oneness and opportunity of America is what has made us great and what will continue to do so.

I saw a poster the other day that portrayed a sentiment that should be at the heart of our rhetoric: “Make America Kind Again”. I would add – “Keep America Inclusive – We Are One”.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

SHAKE THE HAND OF THOSE IMMIGRANT FRIENDS THAT MAKE OUR INDUSTRY GREAT.

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

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IN THE KITCHEN: EVERYONE’S DIFFERENT – EVERYONE’S THE SAME

14 Saturday Apr 2018

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This story may not be true – but it could be.

“We become not a melting pot but a beautiful mosaic. Different people, different beliefs, different yearnings, different hopes, different dreams.”

-Jimmy Carter

Chef Michel looked around his kitchen and reflected: “What an incredibly diverse group of people who are keeping this kitchen afloat.” The chef knows that what he sees is absolutely true for every other kitchen from coast to coast. When you look past the façade and start to dig just a little bit you see individuals who are just as complex as you, just as unique, just as troubled at times, and just as fulfilled at others.

Andre his sous chef was originally from Montreal, Quebec. His father came from France in the early seventies as an architect. He met the woman who would become his wife while working in a small architectural firm across from McGill University in the city center. She was a barista in a coffee shop while studying psychology at McGill. Andre’s father patronized the coffee shop every morning hoping to catch her eye and start a conversation that might carry him through the day. They were married before she completed her studies and gave birth to Andre shortly after. As was the case with many parents – they had plans for their son, plans that did not include becoming a chef, but Andre grew to become independent and insisted that this was what he wanted to do. He worked as a commis at some great Montreal restaurants including Toque and eventually took two years to stagiere with some great chefs in France before arriving in the States and eventually finding his way to Chef Michel’s New York City hotel kitchen.

Bruno had worked on the line of many New York restaurants since his late teenage years. He began, as many did, washing dishes after high school and quickly fell in love with the kitchen environment. Bruno had no desire to attend college and knew that his family could never afford to send him anyway. Besides, the kitchen seemed just right to him. Bruno’s brother had enlisted in the Marines when be turned 19 and was currently on his third deployment in Afghanistan. Bruno had always admired his brother and felt somewhat lost without his counsel. He hadn’t seen his brother for more than 9 months and constantly worried about his safety. To have some peace of mind Bruno immersed himself in work – always volunteering for extra shifts. When he was cranking out quality food in the kitchen he was able to feel complete and for that time able to put his brother in a safe spot in the back of his mind.

Miguel and Rodrigues were brothers in spirit. They had both come from Southern Mexico – escaping the pressure to move to a life of crime in an effort to support themselves and their families in Mexico. They were poor back at home, but incredibly strong and respectful members of their extended families. They grew up together and had a dream of coming to the U.S. They both wanted to approach the process legally, but found it cumbersome and challenging, so they paid to cross the border and start their journey with illegal documents. Chef Michel took them at their word that their documents were legitimate, but in his heart he suspected that they weren’t. Miguel and Rodrigues were fantastic workers, always showing up on time and never complaining about their duties as dishwashers and occasional prep cooks. They made sure that cooks had plenty of peeled potatoes, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, chopped parsley and snipped herbs, as well as shucked oysters and clams used in the Hotel Bar. Everyone respected these two.

Naomi was originally born in Nairobi, Africa to a family of privilege. Her father was a well-respected doctor who had received his medical degree from the University of Buffalo. He chose to return to his country and operate a clinic for those countrymen who could otherwise ill-afford quality medical care. His daughter was smart and progressive. He knew that she could never be satisfied with the typical life provided in Nairobi and worked his contacts to find a link in America for her to study the craft that she desired – Naomi truly wanted to become a world-class pastry chef. After many months of communication Naomi’s father made arrangements for her to attend the Culinary Institute of America. Naomi was now on her externship with Chef Michel.

Jake was a tough kid. He grew up in Brooklyn, hated school, lived in a small 3rd floor apartment with his parents, and grew tired of a steady diet of odd jobs, a little shop lifting, and even a short stint in juvenile detention for helping to steal a car. His parents were frustrated with their son and his inability to get his life together. At the age of 17 he dropped out of school and took a job as an assistant breakfast cook in a neighborhood diner. The lead cook – Greta, was a tough as nails Greek woman who took it upon herself to straighten Jake out. She pushed him towards dependability and taught him how to become a pretty decent breakfast cook. After a few short months Jake was able to run a breakfast shift by himself – he loved it! Now 19, Jake had moved on to Chef Michel’s kitchen as a prep cook. For the first time he was given a real chef’s uniform – one with his name embroidered over the pocket. When he moved on Greta gave him his first French knife and with tears in her eyes – wished him well. Jake was learning more every day and felt, for the first time in his life, that he had a purpose and a future.

Jana was probably Chef Michel’s most talented cook. At first she had a bit of a chip on her shoulder because she had already worked her way through a handful of restaurants where being a woman was not an advantage. She had put up with a load of crap from her male counterparts and as such grew a tough skin out of necessity. She put on a good face, but underneath felt abused and totally demeaned by other cooks bullying and sexual innuendo. It would be a few more years before this type of abuse would become totally unacceptable, but for now she was hoping that this new gig would be different.

Chef Michel made a commitment a long time ago to never allow inappropriate conduct of this type in his kitchen and told Jana that things would be different. So far, the chef had lived up to the promise and Jana was really starting to come into her own as a terrific line cook. Chef Michel saw in her – his next sous chef.

Jamal was a young black kid from the Bronx. He was smart and determined. Too many of his friends had taken a wrong turn in life, joined gangs, got mixed up with drugs and scrapes with the law. His cousin, at the age of 15 was shot outside of his family apartment and was left with numerous physical and emotional challenges as a result. Jamal wanted to be successful and needed a chance to get out of the hostile environment that surrounded him. He had attended a Vocational Program in the Bronx that specialized in cooking and as a result found a job working in Chef Michel’s kitchen. The chef took an instant liking to Jamal and started him working prep until last month when he moved an excited young aspiring cook up to the line on the fry station. Jamal was determined to learn and excel – he saw this as his way out.

Maria was a single mom who lived with her mother and seven year old son in a small Brooklyn apartment. Maria had two jobs – breakfast cook in Chef Michel’s kitchen and evening line cook at a restaurant called “Prune” in Brooklyn. She walked two miles to work in Chef Michel’s kitchen each day. She was, in Chef Michel’s mind, one of the best breakfast cooks he had ever worked with. She always arrived on time, her mise en place was impeccable, and the quality of her cooking was only surpassed by her speed. Along with another extern from culinary school she could easily prepare the 150-200 breakfasts every morning. Maria’s mom took care of her son who rarely saw his mom – she never complained but the chef knew it tore her up to be the absent mother.

There were numerous others including Hispanic and Ecuadorian cooks and dishwashers, and a very diverse group in the dining room including Russian and Jamaican servers who were exceptional at their craft. This was a melting pot environment that only required a few important traits – the desire to work hard, be dependable, function as a team, and exhibit a passion for food.

Chef Michel looked around the operation for a few more moments and realized that although each person had a unique story, they all were able to come together as one cohesive unit – a team committed to doing a great job and support each other in the process. They laughed, they high-fived, pushed each other when necessary and always jumped in to assist when someone was in the weeds. Chef Michel smiled knowing that in a kitchen everyone was different, yet everyone was the same in their desire to perform well. This is why he loved the kitchen so much – knowing that everyone has a connection regardless of the unique history that follows him or her.

I want to thank my friend Jeff Wager for sharing a word unknown to me at first: “Sonder” – the inspiration for this article.

Sonder: “the realization that each passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.”

-The Urban Dictionary

The kitchen is the great equalizer where everybody has a purpose and everyone can be a part of something great.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Be Something Special – Be a Cook

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting and Training

A CHEF’S THOUGHTS ON IMMIGRATION AND DIVERSITY

24 Monday Oct 2016

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Painted in Waterlogue

Every day that I walked into a kitchen, from the time I was a 15-year old dishwasher with working papers, I saw something that made me feel special. It was the sense of camaraderie, the feeling that we were all in this together. I knew that most every day would be an opportunity to learn something new. Beyond the expected evolution of skills that come from time, repetition, and execution of the designated menu, there was always an opportunity to learn something unique from the diverse group of teammates that made up the restaurant. It might be the right way to make pierogi from Amanda who grew up in Poland, how to roll gnocchi from Dominick who came to the U.S. in 1973 from Firenze, Italy, the blending of more than 30 ingredients in the process of perfecting a true mole from Juan – a Mexican native, or that secret dry rub for brisket from Lloyd who grew in in Southern Georgia and immigrated from Cuba a decade before. Every day was a chance to learn more about food and the culture that impacted on how it was prepared.

“If you’re looking for a line cook who’s professional in his work habits, responsible with your food, dependable, a guy with a sense of humor, reasonably good character, and a repertoire of French and Italian standards, and who can drill out 250 meals without going mental or cutting corners too egregiously, chances are you’ll go to Carlos, your grill man” and ask him for a recommendation. And Carlos will have a cousin or a brother for you.”

-Anthony Bourdain

A Cook’s Tour

The most fascinating and rewarding aspects of spending a career in the kitchen is that I have had the opportunity to work with African Americans, Ethiopians, Venezuelans, Peruvians, Mexicans, Haitians, Ecuadorans, Cubans, Bulgarians, Russians, Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Rastafarians, Creoles, French, Brits, Irish, Germans, Swiss, Italians, Greeks, Turks, Spaniards, Romanians, Austrians, Norwegians, Swedes, Fins, Saudis and Eastern Indians, Pakistani’s and Nepalese, Canadians, Japanese, Chinese, Australians, New Zealanders, Koreans, Dutch, Gays, Straights, Tall and Small, Republicans, Democrats, Liberals, Conservatives, Independents, Male, Female, Aged Veteran Cooks, and Newbies fresh out of school, College Grads, High School Dropouts, Alcoholics and Recovering Alcoholics, Consistently Nice People and Raging Assholes, Wealthy and Poor, incredibly hard workers and lazy time wasters, and anyone who falls into another “category”. The reality is that, at least in the restaurant, we are all the same in many respects. We all have a job to do and collectively that job can result in dynamic teamwork and happy customers.

Angry bias – I don’t get it, I don’t support it, and I don’t have any patience for it. Everybody is unique, important, good at different levels, anxious to be respected for who they are, and valuable to the team. Show them respect and they will walk a million miles for you. The old adage of treat people the way you would like to be treated rings true ALWAYS. I love the kitchen for this – I have learned to always try to see the person inside, the one who has many of the same feelings and desires that I have, the one who when the restaurants doors open is standing beside me ready to perform.

It is very disturbing to think that what has always made our country great in the eyes of everyone else is this commitment to acceptance, the foundation of bringing people into the fold and providing opportunities for anyone who is willing to work hard – may be changing. If the world begins to no longer view America as the country willing to wrap its arms around diversity, then what are we left with?

“Give us your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse of your teaming shore. Send these, the homeless, tempest tossed, to me: I lift my lamp beside the golden door.”

-Emma Lazarus

* This is what is written on the Statue of Liberty – the symbol of our great country to the rest of the world. This is how we must continue to be viewed as the leader of the free world.

Yes, there are many people who come to our country illegally and we must figure out the right way to get this under control, but we should also consider why they are choosing to come here. We have been the land of opportunity, the place of refuge for those in need, the protector of those who relish freedom. I know that in the restaurant and hotel business (agriculture as well) we would be hard put to provide the services that Americans demand without this diverse workforce, yes – even those who are not here illegally. Are these people here to steal opportunities from those of us who were fortunate enough to be born in the U.S. or are they excited to become a part of what we are known for in the world. In many cases, these immigrants are excited to take on necessary jobs that many American’s are no longer willing to do. Just ask any restaurateur or hotelier and they will tell you the same thing.

We need better control, we need to screen effectively to keep out those who have harm in their hearts, but at the same time we should not lose sight of our role as the leader of the free world. I hope that our politicians can look at the whole picture, learn to appreciate the value that immigrants bring to our country, and remain compassionate as was the design of our forefathers (also immigrants), and continue to raise the flag of freedom for every other country to admire and respect.

Working in a kitchen has spoiled me – I look forward to working with people from every background so that I can learn to be a better person.

This is an issue in the election, an important issue, and one that should be taken on not with anger but with understanding. Please don’t walk away from your privilege to vote on November 8th – vote for the person(s) who you believe personify what has made us the greatest nation on earth and a beacon of hope for those who feel that they have none otherwise. If we lose this we become no better than anyone else.

This is not a partisan pitch for any particular candidate. Immigration and diversity are big issues that will play out over the next four years and as such should call for everyone’s study and attention. I know that I am going to vote from my heart with an understanding of how America has been viewed and how I hope it is viewed for generations to come.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

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