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BUFFALO – MY KIND OF FOOD TOWN

15 Tuesday Aug 2017

I am reposting this article I wrote in 2013 – it still seems appropriate for all who have a passion for the Queen City. This is the Buffalo I remember.

Harvest America Ventures

Yes, in case you have not guessed, I am originally from Buffalo. After you get all of the stinging quips out of your system let me tell you what Buffalo is really like. It is true that the press has not always been kind to the Queen City and it almost feels like Buffalo has enjoyed being the punching bag for the media. In reality, Buffalo is a very special city with tremendous history, unfaltering pride, and yes – even a healthy food scene.

OK, so the Bills never won a Superbowl and the Sabres have only gotten so far, but don’t ever try and tell a Buffalonian that these teams are not worthy. We have the right, as people from the city, to critique our teams, but other’s do not. We will defend them till the end of time (there, I got that out of my system).

Let’s talk…

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DOES MUSIC BELONG IN THE KITCHEN?

02 Wednesday Jul 2014

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DOES MUSIC BELONG IN THE KITCHEN?

It was inevitable. As cooks and chefs grew into the role of artist so too did they join the ranks of talented expressionists who use a multitude of mediums. If the chef is truly an artist, then it would make sense that he or she would be and should be inspired by those who write, draw, paint, sculpt, sing and play musical instruments. I have long viewed cooks as frustrated artists who are in search of a vehicle of expression that also pays the bills. When thought of in this regard, cooking is the ultimate art form. Where other forms of artistic expression may appeal to one or two human senses, cooking appeals to all of them.

Writers, poets, sculptures, musicians and painters draw their inspiration from life and from things that stimulate their sensory perception. To deny them access to these stimuli would be to deny their art. It would thus be easy to apply the same rules to kitchens and cooks. To deny cooks access to sensory stimuli would be to deny their ability to create for the plate.

Many chefs, (I was one for many years) are opposed to music in the kitchen. There are legitimate reasons for this stance: music could be considered a distraction, musical tastes will differ in a kitchen causing potential friction among team members, and music will limit the necessary verbal communication that must take place in a kitchen throughout the day. All of this is very true, however, there are benefits.

Music has an emotional, spiritual, physiological and psychological effect on people; in this case, cooks. The temperament of a kitchen is critical to success and when people are happy, they produce happy food. Controlling the type, volume and sequence of music can be used to reinforce all of those positive emotional and physical feelings.

Calm, soothing music in the morning can be used to set a positive tone for the day as the kitchen comes to life. Fast paced music that reflects on good times can be used to keep an effective pace during prep when the sheer volume of work needs a healthy push. At service time, the music must be replaced with the cadence of the kitchen. Focus on orders, the expeditor, the chatter from the service staff, sizzle from a sauté pan and clink of china on the pass are the only sounds that have a place during this critical time. Finally, at clean up a good dose of musical energy will help to inspire the team to get through the final phase.

Does music actually inspire cooks to create? There have actually been numerous studies to try and prove or disprove this theory.

“Both Schellenberg and Levitin agree that music will have different effects on your brain and behavior depending on how it makes you feel. Want to be alert and focused? Try an upbeat song that puts you in a good mood, whether it’s Mozart or Miley. Want to step away from a problem and relax in order to find a solution? Play anything you like — and don’t dismiss those sad songs you like to mope around to.

“When we hear sad music, it allows us to empathize with the composer and the musician and makes us feel connected to them,” said Levitin. This empathy, he said, can allow individuals to glean creative insights they wouldn’t otherwise have.”
Here’s Proof Music Can Do More Than Just Make You Feel Good

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/06/24/music-creative_n_5511501.html

There are mixed feelings on the part of chefs. Eric Ripert does not allow music in his kitchen at Le Bernadin. His rationale would be hard to argue with and the end result is a restaurant that most aspiring chefs would kill to work at. Rated as one of America’s few Michilen starred restaurants and one of the finest in the world, pushing him on this issue would seem to be fruitless.

http://curiosity.discovery.com/question/listen-to-music-in-kitchen

Others find that music is an essential part of restaurant life and critical to building team spirit and high levels of productivity. Many of these chefs are aspiring musicians as well. Dean Fearing from the Mansion at Turtle Creek is one of the country’s most admired culinary figures who also plays a mean guitar in bands comprised of fellow chefs. Steve Schimoler, owner/operator/chef at Crop Bistro in Cleveland is also an accomplished drummer whose band “Cream of the Crop” performs around Cleveland and at the restaurant carrying the same name.

http://www.thisiscleveland.com/restaurants/cleveland-chefs/steve-schimoler/

Although the media and Food Network would have us believe that chefs are the new rock stars, it is really the influence that music has on their everyday hard work in the kitchen that is most important. So, back to the original question: does music have a place in the kitchen? This is really up to the operator to determine. We do know that music is important to people and can, in many cases, positively impact on morale, creativity and production. If a chef can control the sequence of music throughout the day and appease the team with music that universally inspires, then this may be an issue for even the older stalwarts like me to reconsider.

If I were to embrace music in a kitchen that I was responsible for, here is a possible music playlist that I could accept and use to inspire:

5 a.m – 7 a.m. – BREAKFAST SHIFT
A mix of Switched on Bach, Bela Fleck, Yo Yo Ma, Pat Methany and Early Pink Floyd.

7 a.m. – 1 p.m. – PREP SHIFT & DELIVERIES
A eclectic mix of music from the 60’s and 70’s including Little Feat, Allman Brothers, British Invasion Groups, California Groups like Quicksilver, Jefferson Airplane, and Grateful Dead as well as a touch of Hendrix and British Blues. Of course I couldn’t forget the Gipsy Kings, Los Lonely Boys and Bob Marley.

1 p.m. – 5 p.m. – CRUNCH TIME PREPARING FOR SERVICE
A bit of hard guitars like Joe Satriani, Stevie Ray, Joe Bonamassa, Walter Trout, Eric Clapton,Eddie Van Halen, and Jeff Beck (the best guitarist on the planet).

5 p.m. – 11 p.m. – SERVICE
No music, only the pleasant sounds of the the ticket printer, clanging china, service staff chatter and the chef calling out orders.

11 p.m. – close – BREAKDOWN
Line cooks choice. What ever gets them through it. I’ll close the office door.

What would your playlist look like?

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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RENT, LEASE, OR BUY – THE SIGNIFICANCE OF RESTAURANT LOCATION

29 Sunday Jun 2014

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RENT, LEASE, OR BUY – THE SIGNIFICANCE OF RESTAURANT LOCATION

Was it Ellsworth Statler who, a generation ago proclaimed, “The three most important elements of success are location, location, location,” or was it the British real estate tycoon named Lord Harold Samuel who died in 1987? In either case, those in marketing of any type have long proclaimed that location is one of, if not the most important attribute of a successful business or a valuable property.

There is little question that visibility and an already established clientele base sets the stage for success, but it never guarantees it. Restaurants are, in many cases, an enigma when it comes to this rule of thumb. Yes, there are many – in particular, the chain operators, who will not invest in a site that doesn’t fit the formula for a “great” location. This is why you’ll consistently find the major brands clustered together. The research has been done, the volume of traffic is there, the socio-economic demographic is a match, entrances and exits are easy to manage, and the area is properly zoned. If the operator is willing to invest, then this must be the place where they build. But, is this always the formula that works?

An Olive Garden and P.F. Chang’s will always be easy to find. Look for the mall or high traffic access road with plenty of parking and you will likely find these brands as well as every other significant concept that a community can possibly support. To place these restaurants elsewhere would not make economic sense.

Along come private entrepreneurs: chefs with a vision, restaurateurs with a formula for success and in both cases a need to keep occupancy costs (rent, lease, mortgage, utilities, property taxes, etc.) in check. Spending a few minutes with a calculator it is not difficult to determine what the operator can afford to spend on location. “I know I should follow the golden rule and look for the property with established traffic, high visibility, plenty of parking, easy access and other reasons for people to be there, but I can’t afford it.”

Restaurants are magnet operations, especially in today’s world of consumers who are infatuated with food and beverage and creative chefs. These magnets are frequently used when a developer or landlord is seeking to gentrify an area that has fallen into disrepair. Now, this is an area where a restaurateur can afford to build. These gentrification projects may take years or even decades to work, but many do. That terribly seedy area suddenly becomes a cool place to be. The restaurant has started to build a niche trade that will, over time, evolve into a market for unique shops, remodeled high end apartments and condos, more attention from local police departments, landscaping and lighting and an upbeat flow of hip people who have reclaimed the area as their own.

The restaurateur and chef, or chefs over time, have suffered through the tough battle. Building trust, creating an innovative concept, enhancing their image, attracting and retaining an attentive and competent staff, drawing attention from the local press and the food community and now, finally, they are beginning to reap the rewards. A restaurant with a reputation, a chef with a brand, and a supportive group of clients who came initially because of the food critics review, but now return time and time again for the experience. Ah, the restaurant is beginning to make money and everyone is proud.

Meanwhile, the community around the restaurant is starting to come alive and thrive. The shops are busy, taxi drivers are no longer leery of venturing into the area at night, vendors are clamoring for the business that the restaurant has to offer, and everything seems just right.

This story happens time and again in cities across the United States. Large cities and small towns all can point to areas that have experienced a rebirth that began with a restaurant willing to take a chance and unable to afford building in an another area that might have been a sure bet.

To those marketers of the golden rule I ask: “Did the restaurant make the location or did the location make the restaurant?” How many people ever heard of Yountville, California before Thomas Keller took a chance on The French Laundry and eventually Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc? Once created, where is the value? Is it the location, the brand that the chef or restaurateur has created, or is it something else? Can the magic simply be replanted somewhere else with the same end results? These are questions that cannot easily be answered.

So, where am I going with this train of thought? When restaurants resurrect an area they have, in my opinion, earned the right to be there and enjoy what they helped bring to fruition. A successful restaurant is much more than simply a place to dine. A successful restaurant is the heartbeat of a neighborhood and this heart cannot simply be transplanted to another part of town with the expectation that it will be accepted. Time and again this is attempted with resulting disappointment or failure.

We have all seen this unfold in our communities. A great restaurant with a solid following decides to move a few blocks away with disastrous results. Years of hard work, patience and a bit of angst have now taken a turn from success to failure.

A recent trend, especially in large metropolitan areas pressing through urban renewal, is landlords and developers raising restaurant rents in gentrified areas; areas that those restaurants helped to rebuild. Rent levels are no longer workable for restaurant operators. Many landmark restaurants are now finding themselves in the market for alternative locations. The question is, can they re-create the magic in a different area. Will their brand carry enough karma to hit the ground running?

This has happened with Bobby Flay at Mesa Grill, the original Aquavit and most recently – Union Square Café. Profit, of course, is a primary measure in business and one could argue that we cannot and should not limit a landlord’s opportunity to improve their bottom line if the market exists for tenants with deeper pockets. But, like the Yountville example, where would these neighborhoods be without the heartbeat that a restaurant creates, and how will the neighborhood, let alone the restaurant survive when one is removed from the other?

To rent or lease is to be always vulnerable to fluctuations in fees. To buy is, in most cases, out of reach for private restaurateurs. There is no real answer to this dilemma. It is, after all, part of the challenge of operating a restaurant and building a brand.

Danny Meyer is a brilliant restaurateur as is Bobby Flay. They will certainly survive and move on, but those epic restaurants may not. Will Mesa Grill work as well in another section of New York? Can Union Square Café separate from Union Square and still maintain the dynamic personality that has been created in its current location for the past few decades?

I wish them well and although my visits to New York are few and far between, I will miss them as I remember. The communities that they helped to build will not be the same.

Take a moment to view this article offering more details on the dilemma that is faced by Danny Meyer and Union Square Café.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant Consulting, Training and Coaching

Follow our blog: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

*PICTURE TAKEN BY: Kristin Parker – Kristin Parker Photography
https://www.facebook.com/KristinParkerPhotography

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LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

26 Thursday Jun 2014

This is a previously posted article, but one that I feel is important. What many people (restaurant guests) do not realize is that although the chef may be the visionary and the designer of the food experience in your favorite restaurant, it is the line cook who actually prepares your meal. I am, and will always be a champion of the line cook – the life blood of a kitchen. I hope that you will SHARE this article with your network.

Harvest America Ventures

LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

It takes many years for a good cook to become a great cook, to become a chef. There is an enormous amount of experience that leads to the ability to lead a kitchen, to create a vision and set the tone for consistently excellent performance. Aside from a strong understanding of foundational cooking technique, the chef must have accumulated an understanding of purchasing, menu planning, human resource management, inventory management, cost control, artistic presentations of food, sanitation and safety, public relations, wine, as well as communication and brand building. Yes, this position is a culmination of a lifetime of skill and aptitude development, however, chefs must never lose sight of the role that line cooks play in the daily successful operation of a kitchen.

Line cooks are the lifeblood of any professional kitchen operation. It is, after all, the line cook who has the responsibility to prepare, develop flavors and…

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CHEF’S – BE ACTIVE WITH ALL PARTS OF THE DINING EXPERIENCE

24 Tuesday Jun 2014

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CHEF’S – BE ACTIVE WITH ALL PARTS OF THE DINING EXPERIENCE

It would be accurate to state that there is more to do in operating a restaurant kitchen than most any chef can effectively deal with. Writing menus, testing recipes, ordering product, connecting with farmers and vendors, hiring, training and evaluating staff, maintaining standards of sanitation and safety, monitoring production and filling in wherever needed equates to more hours than there are in a day. Yet, if the chef is not in tune with and very knowledgeable about wine, beer, distilled beverages, service, marketing, cost control and image building then their job is incomplete. The food is absolutely important, but it is only one part of the formula for a great meal.

In this article I will only touch on one of those components: wine. There are three ways to view a wine list in your restaurant: the menu drives the complementary wines you want to sell, the wine drives the type of menu you want to offer, or, the wine list is independent without real thought given to how it fits. Obviously, the first two options would be preferred, providing there are certain menu list parameters that are always considered.

The chef must be actively involved in the selection of wines that will add interest and depth to the menu being developed. To be able to do this, the chef needs a breadth of knowledge, a competent palate and the resources necessary to make an intelligent decision with wine purchases. This cannot be a front of the house decision alone, the wine footprint for your restaurant helps to build your restaurant signature and as such is part of the culinary focus.

The chef needs to understand the source for wines (country, region, vineyard, grape and terroir) just as he or she must know the source of ingredients used in building the food menu. The quality of the grape, climate, make up of the soil, and topography are just as important, if not more, than the expertise of the wine maker.

Just as a cook is trained to taste – season – taste, so too must a chef learn to sip, swish and drink wine with the foods that it will most likely accompany. It is the chef’s palate that drives a menu even after consideration for guest preferences. Each restaurant chef must know the wine list at a similar level to the food menu. What are the characteristics of a cabernet sauvignon vs. a merlot or zinfandel. When is a French Chardonnay preferred over one from Northern California. Why are Pinot Noirs from Oregon recognized as comparable to those from France and wines made from the same grape in other parts of the United States not so lucky? What makes a particular vintage so spectacular and another so-so? When are tannins a good thing and when are they not?

A chef’s food palate may take decades to fully develop, so it may take some time to build a similar palate for wine, but professionals cannot defer on this important task. When the guest arrives they are in your hands. The chef can sculpt a guest experience providing his or her breadth of knowledge goes beyond the flavor profile of that braised veal shank.

The chef may never have the scope of wine understanding of a sommelier, but he or she must be able to talk the language and stand up to decisions regarding what will be sold as an appropriate food pairing. Collaborative sessions leading to wine dinners, designation of new wine by the glass candidates and tasting sessions with clients for group events are all integral parts of a chefs job.

A reasonably expansive wine inventory in a restaurant can easily be valued in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Though some may be inclined to collect wine and speculate on it’s eventual inflated value, most restaurants hope to turn their wine inventory over every six to nine months. This goal requires that the chef and wine manager work together in an effort to find ways to attract enthusiasts and build complementary wine sales. Neither the front nor back of the house will reach their sales goals without collaborative understanding and marketing efforts.

There are certainly great examples of chefs who have taken this task to heart. Thomas Keller, Alice Waters, Mario Batali, Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud have sophisticated wine palates and their wine lists demonstrate this love and understanding. But, this appreciation for, and knowledge of wine should not be limited to the relatively small percentage of high-end restaurants with celebrity names behind the range. When one considers that alcoholic beverages still account for the most profitable items on a restaurant menu it behooves chefs in every full service restaurant to build a repertoire of wine knowledge and create lists that work with food in a complementary way.

Wine consumption has grown steadily over the past few decades as consumers built an appreciation for quality and became more adventurous. Even with this substantial growth, wine consumption in America pales in comparison to Europe (although wine is losing some of its attraction to younger European consumers). This demonstrates a significant opportunity in our country to build on a fresh interest in wine and its ability to balance well with food. Knowledge is power for a chef and wine should be a part of that knowledge base.

For those interested, here are a few examples of great references that can help with developing a solid wine knowledge for chefs.

WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT

WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE

WINE ESSENTIALS

EXPLORING WINE

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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RESTAURANT STAFF MEAL – THE IMPORTANCE OF BREAKING BREAD

23 Monday Jun 2014

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RESTAURANT STAFF MEAL – THE IMPORTANCE OF BREAKING BREAD

There are very few, if any other businesses that view a staff meal as not just a benefit, but rather a necessity. Labor laws do not mandate that a restaurant provide a meal for its staff, only that time for consumption of a meal is provided. Restaurants choose, somewhat due to tradition, to offer this sustenance for employees.

Over many years chefs and management have expressed mixed feelings about the meal and far too often have viewed it as a costly inconvenience. Recently, there has been a commitment on the part of a growing community of restaurants to view the staff meal as a “family” or team building opportunity. This is becoming a vehicle for restaurants to communicate, set the tone for service, inspire and build stronger team relationships. The reference commonly used is the chance to “break bread”.

There is, of course, plenty of history and subliminal meaning behind the “breaking bread” phrase. Much of this history dates back to the early days of Christianity when the church referred to this as a part of fellowship.

“The early Christians came together regularly for common meals, which included the breaking of bread. The reference is to these individuals having everything in common.” http://www.gotquestions.org/breaking-of-bread.html

In a restaurant, that commonality is evident in the purpose of service, the respect for food, the passion for preparation, the respect for process and historical cooking traditions, the enjoyment of food as entertainment, and the responsibility to create customer value. The staff, or family meal, provides everyone the opportunity to reinforce this common bond, refer to the restaurants objectives and enjoy each other’s company before they are immersed in the moments of service. This time, as short as it might be can be the difference between success and failure during a meal period and beyond. The significance of breaking bread should not be overlooked.

What is served, how it is set, in what manner the time for family meal is allotted will be critical and as more and more restaurants grab onto the opportunity the benefits are becoming evident.

If your restaurant views the meal as an opportunity to simply provide a carbohydrate rush that helps to build energy for service, then the larger benefit will never be addressed. If time is not built into the schedule that allows staff members to stop for 20 minutes or so, sit and enjoy a meal together, then the value of “sharing things that people have in common”, will be lost and the real growth of a team will be diminished.

An effective family meal can provide a chef with the opportunity to excite staff members about his or her style of cooking and the uniqueness of what the restaurant offers. A taste of a new wine offered by the sommelier or manager will provide staff members with the opportunity to build their wine knowledge, especially pertaining to how it might complement certain foods. Adequate time for both front and back of the house employees to sit and enjoy the food, converse and learn about each other will be critical in building understanding and keeping everyone focused on what is important. For a period of time everyone in the restaurant can truly feel that they are equal. Everyone begins to see that each person contributes to the success of the operation and each job is critical.

There are ancillary benefits to family meal in those restaurants that wish to use this time as a broader educational event. Looking around the staff table, most restaurant employees will see a diversity of ethnicity, race, and life experiences. There is an opportunity to break down barriers and learn from each other. Maybe that line cook or dishwasher from Central America should have an opportunity to prepare a dish for staff that reflects his or her family traditions. Quite possibly, the waiter who proudly emigrated from France, Italy, Russia or Spain could toast the staff with a wine from his or her homeland and talk about its historical significance. Maybe the chef or sous chef who has worked in a variety of restaurants can bring back a dish from a past operation and demonstrate how his or her personal cuisine evolved from those early beginnings. Every time something new is added to the family mealtime a staff member builds his or her base of knowledge and in turn becomes a stronger employee.

Chefs and managers are and should be educators. Their ability to attract, train and retain a great team is reflective not simply on pay scales, but even more importantly how they can help those employees build their base of knowledge. Knowledge is one of the best retention tools in an industry that is plagued by turnover. Just as great bread and exceptional coffee sends an important message to a guest about the quality of a meal and a restaurants commitment to doing things right, so too does the staff meal and the celebration of team send a message to current and future staff.

“I judge a restaurant by the bread and by the coffee.” –Burt Lancaster

Burt Lancaster views this through the eyes of the restaurant guest; the analogy does apply in the same fashion through the eyes of the employee.

I applaud the recent movement towards creating a family meal event in restaurants as evidenced by a growing number of excellent books on the topic. If you are interested in viewing your staff meal differently, I would strongly suggest that you take a look at these books and add them to your chef’s library.

STAFF MEALS

OFF THE MENU

COME IN, WE’RE CLOSED

FAMILY TABLE

EATING WITH THE CHEFS

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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RESTAURANT FRIENDS ARE UNIQUE

20 Friday Jun 2014

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RESTAURANT FRIENDS ARE UNIQUE

Allow me to begin with a generalization: most restaurant cooks are introverts, viewed as different, sometimes odd and often times lacking in self-confidence. Now you might disagree from your experiences in the kitchen, but it is my theory that “the kitchen” is the vehicle that allows the introvert to come out of his or her shell. These unique people are not easy for outsiders to understand, appreciate or connect with; thus cooks friends happen to be other cooks, servers, chefs and ancillary pirates from the kitchen.

It may very well be that the hours that a cook works tend to limit his or her ability to create “non-restaurant” friendships, but my un-scientific theory points to other factors. First, introverts find it difficult to establish common denominators with others and fear a lack of approval from people. Some may put on a front of indifference to other’s opinion, but most really do care what others think. Realizing that this will not come easy for others, the introvert tries to distance him or herself from the pack and may even seek out a bit of shock value in how they look, dress, act out or what they choose to do with their lives.

Introverts go against the grain and will confuse others. More often than not, these same people are incredibly creative and have the ability to step outside normal thinking processes and actually solve problems that others find insurmountable. One of my all-time favorite quotes is from Apple Computer as they tried to distance themselves from the pack of other tech companies:

“Here’s to the crazy ones. The misfits. The rebels. The troublemakers. The round pegs in the square holes. The ones who see things differently. They’re not fond of rules. And they have no respect for the status quo. You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them. About the only thing you can’t do is ignore them. Because they change things. They push the human race forward. And while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius. Because the people who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones who do.”
Like cooks and other restaurant people, those introverts in the computer industry need their special environment to shine and show potential. Apple, MicroSoft, HP, Samsung, Google and Amazon are havens for technology introverts who are changing the world.

In the right environment, introverts morph into different people; ones with a common goal, but more importantly ones who can be themselves, accept others and have others accept them. They become truly transparent in their approach to others.

From my experience, restaurant employees become, in many respects, perfect friends. They may never be that “best friend” that we all hope to find, but real friends none-the-less. Think about that person who worked next to you on a restaurant line and reflect on the attributes that you share with them:
1. You will spend more time with your cook friends than with anyone else, maybe even more time than you spend with your spouse or significant other.
2. Your cook friends will see you at your real best and worst. Feelings and actions are rarely hidden in a kitchen.
3. Your cook friends will learn to anticipate your reactions long before they happen. Spending so much time together reveals advance signals of anger, emotion, frustration and the ugly meltdown.
4. Your cook friends, through close proximity will know what music you like and hate, what your opinions are regarding politics, what sports you enjoy and despise.
5. Your cook friends will freely tell you about past employers and what they thought of them.
6. You will share common passions about food and beverage with your cook friends. They will know what you like to eat and drink and could easily prescribe a meal for you depending on your mood.
7. You will learn to respect your cook friends tools and possessions and in-turn they will respect yours.
8. You may joke and prod your cook friends, sometimes with tasteless references, yet when they are in need of support or assistance, you are there for them – always.
9. Your cook friends will make fun of you, but never allow someone out of your restaurant family to take a similar shot.
10. You will, after a period of time, know exactly how your cook friend will function on the line. Your communication on a busy night might simply be a nod – enough to trigger the right action or response.
11. Your cook friends will welcome you into their network of other friends. “A friend of Jake is a friend of mine.”
12. When your kitchen team is in full sync it is just like the Three Musketeers – all for one and one for all. As Howard Schultz, CEO for Starbucks once said: “Success is best when shared.” Cooks share the glory of a well-executed service and share in the dismay over a night that did not go well.
13. Your fellow cooks are completely honest with each other, example: “Your sauce sucks.” Or “You aren’t really going to serve that – are you?” Sometimes the response is positive and when it is you can trust that they mean it: “That dish will rock their world.”
14. Your cook friends become your family away from your family. “True friendship is everything. Friendship is more than talent, it is almost equal to family.” – Don Corleone from The Godfather.
15. Cook friends never let you fail without joining the fight.
16. Even the classic friction that may exist between cooks and servers during the heat of battle is quickly forgotten at the end of the shift when they clink glasses and share a laugh.
17. Cooks may appear to be pirates to those on the outside, and many do swagger like they are ready to board your ship and raise the skull and crossbones flag, but will slip into a comfort zone once they put on their cooks whites and sharpen their knives. This is their place. The kitchen is where they are only judged based on their work performance and ability to accept each other.

Trust me, I have worked in enough kitchens to realize that they are not always as idyllic as I portray, but many are. These are the kitchens, the restaurants that have life, produce exceptional food, service the customer with pride and change how people think about food and beverage.

“Friends may come and friends may go, but you should know that I’ve got your back. It’s automatic so never hesitate to call.” – Brandy

Your cook friends will ALWAYS have your back.

Anthony Bourdain stated once (and this is a paraphrase) that if he were in trouble his first reaction would be to call his sous chef before his spouse.

Restaurant people have a unique friend relationship. A bond of commonality that is unique to the food industry; one that out of necessity creates a connection that would be hard to replicate anywhere else.

Friend a cook – you won’t be sorry.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

*The picture in this article is the restaurant team at the Mirror Lake Inn 2007 Food and Wine Festival. Lake Placid, New York.

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LET THE GAMES BEGIN – A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CHEF – Part Three

18 Wednesday Jun 2014

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LET THE GAMES BEGIN – A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CHEF – Part Three

As the first tickets started to arrive from the dining room – Jake gave some fleeting thought to the time. It was 5:30, he had already been here for nearly 11 hours and the night had just begun. What was most interesting was the energy surge that happened each day when service began. Everyone was ready to rock and Jake felt like this was just the beginning of his shift.

The first orders are sometimes the most challenging since the line team is trying to get a firm footing while they make mental checks of their mise en place. Running out of prep at this point is not acceptable and would cause panic on the line. Everyone knows that you can handle almost anything as long as your prep is tight.

For those who have never worked the line in a busy restaurant it is hard to fully explain. The amount of information that each station needs to process is mind numbing. Timing is, of course critical, but the real key to a successful night lies in the hands of the maitre’d. Managing the door is so critical to the pace, mental health and demeanor of cooks and servers and the person who runs the door controls everyone’s ability to function effectively. If the dining room fills up too fast then service staff cannot pay adequate attention to guests, cannot engage in upselling and will inevitably force mistakes. If the front of the house becomes unraveled, the kitchen could be next. No matter how talented, organized and efficient the line cooks are – if the rail fills too quickly with orders then systems become stressed resulting in delayed plating and lots of re-fires.

In cases where things start to unravel, it is the chef who must take control. Jake usually expedites on a busy night. In this role he can keep the line cooks focused, pace the orders, check every plate before it leaves the kitchen, and most importantly- be the liaison between the front and back of the house.

Tonight, as always, Jake has set-up his station on the other side of the “pass” with side towels for wiping plates, garnishes and master copies of all POS orders. He will be the only voice that the cooks will listen to on a busy night. No distractions – focus.

As expected, early orders were a few family tables and a scattered number of deuces. According to the reservation book this is how the first part of the night would progress. Jake called out “Ordering – three filets, two mid-rare and one well done (ugh); one Sole Veronique, two Chicken Saltimbocca and a Creole Shrimp.” Each line cook responded back so that Jake knew the order was received. “Ordering – three gazpacho, one foie gras and a crab cake appetizers.” “Yes chef”. “Order fire (meaning the order can be started and completed a.s.a.p.) – One strip-mid-rare, rack of lamb for two – rare and a Sole Veronique.”

Each of the three station cooks now had work to do. Some items would be started and set aside waiting for Jake’s command, while this last order was to be cooked and plated. The appetizers were well on their way and when Jake inquired the cook said he was four minutes out. Since the waiter should always wait for the order and not the other way around, Jake called for the back wait to be ready. As promised, the apps were placed in the pass and Jake made the final adjustments. “Pick-up on table 22- apps.” Before he could turn around, the back wait was there with a napkin to slide the items on to a tray. “How long on that order-fire?” Both grill and sauté said they could plate whenever the chef wanted. “Let’s rock.” Steaks were passed for another few seconds on the char-grill and topped with maitre’d butter, the Veronique was masked with a mousseline and browned in the salamander – topped with peeled grapes just as it hit the pass. Jake garnished and once again called for a back wait. “Nice looking food – so far.” “Yes chef.”

Everything went this way until around 7:30 – crunch time. According to the reservation book, there were 70 reservations scheduled to arrive between 7:30 and 8:00. This will test both the front and back of the house staff. The first guests were now finishing their desserts and paying their bills when the rush started to accumulate in the bar. Jake took a minute to touch base with the maitre’d to see if the seating could be paced. If not, Jake had made up a tasty amuse bouche (small bite compliments of the chef) to slow things down and even pre-plated sorbet as an intermezzo in the freezer that could buy them some time if they got too backed up. These “free” items always come in handy and never fail to calm tempers and nerves.

Jake turned to his line cooks “Ladies and gentlemen, we are about to get hammered. Have no fear. As long as your mise en place is set, we will make it through. Take a second to wipe down your stations, double check your supplies, drink some water and clear your heads. I will walk you through this so make sure that you stay tuned in to what I say and only what I say. Are we ready?” “Yes chef” was the resounding response. “Here we go.”

The next two hours were a blur. There were moments – the sauté cook became overwhelmed with orders at the 8:30 mark, but Jake simply slowed down the pace and talked him through. Appetizers and Garde Manger were the champions of the night. Their food looked fantastic, there was never a wait for product, there was not a single re-fire and they were even able to help out with other stations. Then at 8:45 the cook who was working grill grabbed her tongs that had been a bit too close to the flame. You could almost hear the searing of flesh as she yelped in pain. “Run it under cold water and grab burn cream from the first aid kit.” Jake pulled his most trusted back wait into the kitchen and told him to cover the expeditor stations (he had done it before) while Jake jumped on the line to fill in for his injured cook.

There were only six tables left to service, so Jake was able to pick up where she left off. Within a few minutes he was in the rhythm of the line and actually having fun. His grill person, being tough like any line cook, returned to her position with a wrapped hand within 20 minutes of a nasty burn. She insisted on finishing her shift. If needed, she could stop in at an UrgiCare on the way home.

When 9:30 rolled around it was all over. There were a handful of deuces left in the dining room, but the majority of guest had been served. The drama in the kitchen was never an issue and guests were totally oblivious. Jake sent his grill cook home early and insisted that they could clean up. “Have that burn looked at tonight.”

He walked into the dining room, as tables from the rush were finishing up. Jake liked to walk the room whenever he could to sense how well the food and service was received. People were laughing, clinking glasses and saluting the chef as he stopped by each table to thank them for coming. The feedback was positive. Another successful night in the restaurant business.

Returning to the kitchen, cooks were already consolidating, washing stovetops, labeling and dating food and making notes for tomorrows prep. Once again Jake marveled at the efficiency and work ethic of his crew. They were on a mission with him, a mission that was important to them. Make people happy through food.

Jake ladled a cup of gazpacho, asked his favorite back wait for a glass of Sancerre and headed toward his office. He turned to his team and said “Great job tonight – thanks.” “Yes chef” was the response.

Jake made a few notes on a legal pad for tomorrow morning, briefly looked at the BEO’s hanging on a clipboard, changed his clothes and headed out the back door at 11:00 -16 hours after he had arrived this morning. This was an early night for the chef. There would be no drinks with his team tonight – Jake needed some rest.

Just another day in the life.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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MID-DAY IN THE CHEF’S LIFE – Part Two

16 Monday Jun 2014

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MID-DAY IN THE CHEF’S LIFE – Part Two

Chef Jake moved beyond the fresh (or lack there of) fish issue and adjusted his mind-set to the other tasks at hand. It was too late to return to the sales meeting – he would catch up with the department head later on. He checked on the work taking place in prep – tasting stocks and observing the fabrication of meats for the next two days. His intern had a bit of a heavy knife when trimming the silver skin off of tenderloins so Jake stopped to demonstrate the proper technique. Waste is a major enemy of food cost in a restaurant and the chef had the relentless responsibility for watching pennies. His demeanor was different than it was a few years back when he would easily lose his temper rather than take the time to assess the situation and work with his staff to correct issues. He learned the hard way that the message is rarely a major problem it is how the message is delivered. A few years back, at another property, an employee reported his anger to the human resource director who then required Jake to go through a series of anger management sessions. Jake was now (for the most part) a different chef – a better manager and leader.

The chef returned to his office to begin building a series of menus for scheduled special events. He knew that the sales office would be breathing down his neck and wanted to get ahead of the game. Two farm-to-table menus, an Italian Tuscan Table, a summer bar-b-que and a wild game menu were coming together when the dining room supervisor knocked on his office door. Apparently the luncheon for 12 in the boardroom had grown. When the group arrived there were actually 26 people (the organizer neglected to give the restaurant an update in advance). The front-of-the-house was moving the event to another room, offering a wine spritzer on the patio while Jake scrambled to help Lester roll from a group of 12 to 26. This was not a huge issue, but it did take the chef away from his original task at hand. There is never time to point fingers – the guest is right and needs to be accommodated. Within 20 minutes Lester and the chef had it under control and the group barely knew that there was a problem. One of the chef’s primary tasks is to solve problems – big and small. Experience as a chef allows for quick resolution to issues that might paralyze an inexperienced crew.

Back to the menus, Jake needed another 45 minutes to wrap up his ideas and send the draft menus to the sales office. It was now 1:30 and the evening crew would be arriving soon. The phone in a chef’s office rings relentlessly, but when it chimes close to a shift change it often means that someone is calling out. Jake picked up the phone and listened as the dishwasher told him that he was too sick to come in tonight. Good, bad or indifferent, in restaurants people need to be really sick if they call out. When a member of the team is absent it impacts on everyone else. In particular, a dishwasher void can bring a restaurant to its knees. Once again Jake bit his tongue and did not say what he was thinking on the phone, but instead simply said OK, thanks for calling. The chef immediately got on the phone to try and contact any dishwasher who was scheduled to be off and after three tries managed to convince James to fill in in exchange for an extra Saturday off in the future. He couldn’t be in until 6:00, which meant that everyone would need to wash his or her own pots and dishes until then. The crew would not be happy, but it is what it is.

At 2:00 the evening crew began to arrive. Jake was finishing up the menus and was able to email them to the Sales Office by 2:15. The chef grabbed a cup of coffee and walked the kitchen to touch base with each line cook as they arrived. The morning prep crew was nearly done with their work – all meat had been fabricated; vegetable prep was done; shrimp peeled and deveined; dressings made for Garde Manger; pommes frites were cut and in water; shallots, garlic and onions prepped for the line and the stocks were an hour away from completion. Jake’s prep crew was busy cleaning and sanitizing tables so that the evening crew had space to complete their mise en place. The crew was obviously not happy about the dishwasher situation, but simply responded “yes chef” when Jake told them about washing their own.

Over the next three hours there would be lots of chopping, dicing, julienne work on a mandoline, clarification of butter, finishing of sauces (monte beurre), blanching and shocking of vegetables as well as preparation of pans, grills and station organization. The kitchen was humming. This was one of Jake’s favorite times during the day. Every kitchen appears to be a balance of great efficiency and utter chaos. The clock is never kind to cooks during these three hours before service, but some how it always seems to get done.

At 4:45 Jake’s routine is to check each station with the assigned cook, taste all of their sauces, check temperatures, quiz each person on their crisis planning, spot check plates for cleanliness, review the assembly of nightly features and make sure that the team is mentally prepared. At 5:00 Jake and his evening sous chef take part in pre-meal while the staff enjoys a tasty, rushed staff meal. They review nightly features, discuss the issue with the Red Snapper and how to broach the topic with guests, suggest complementary wines with certain dishes, answer any questions that the front-of-the-house may have and set the tone for the evening.

The kitchen staff usually grabs a smoke or just a breath of air for the next few minutes while Chef Jake and the dining room manager walk the restaurant to check on table top details, cleanliness, as well as review reservations and any VIP guests. By 5:30, they are ready to open the doors.

Line cooks are now in place; confidant, side towels are folded in preparation and everyone responds: “yes chef” when Jake asks “are we ready”. Dirty dishes and pots are piled high despite everyone’s effort to stay on top of things, but the dishwasher will arrive soon to tackle the job. Jake knows that the sight of dozens of pots and a drop off table full of plates will set the dishwasher off in a bad mood so he instructs the grill cook to prepare a steak for this important employee as soon as he arrives – a good investment in morale.

Everyone takes a breath and then the POS printer begins to tick off the first orders of the night. Here we go.

**Stay tuned for the final installment of “A Chef’s Day in the Life” on Thursday.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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A CHEF’S DAY IN THE LIFE – Part One

14 Saturday Jun 2014

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A CHEF’S DAY IN THE LIFE – Part One

“Woke up, fell out of bed, dragged the comb across my head. Made my way downstairs and drank a cup and looking up I noticed I was late.” We all remember these lines from the Beatles storyline in: “A Day in the Life”. They are lines that most anyone can relate to for they represent the beginning of our time yesterday, today and tomorrow.

Each of us move in a different direction as our story unfolds, but one thing is clear: we may anticipate that the day will be predictable, yet in our hearts we know that this will likely not be the case. The day of a chef begins just as it does for everyone else – the major difference is the structure, demands and enormous number of unpredictable events that follow. So here is a chefs’: “Day in the Life”.

It is 5 a.m. when the alarm clock cuts through a restless nights sleep. Jake fights the initial urge to grab the clock and fling it against the bedroom wall, but he simply doesn’t have the energy after all. Last night’s service at the restaurant didn’t end until midnight and the standard couple drinks afterwards with his team ended at 1:30 when he finally touched down on his still unmade bed. As he recalled this sequence of events he realized that his clock was still screaming out as a reminder. He reached over and hit the 15-minute snooze button. The shower could wait a few more minutes.

Jake lay in bed with crusty eyes as he now waited for the 15-minute reminder to sound off. Finally, he gave up, shut off the alarm, stumbled to the kitchen and plugged a Peet’s Coffee pod into his Keurig.

Black coffee and 10 minutes of CNN later he was in the shower washing off the smell of fish, onions and garlic from the night before while clearing that crust from his eyes and cobwebs from his foggy brain. Jake had already begun to think through the day ahead that would begin a little after 7 a.m.

The chef’s major comfort at this point was that the phone had not rung yet. This meant that Lester and Marie had both made it in for the breakfast shift. Jake hated those rare days when he had to cover for an absent breakfast cook.

Jake tipped back another cup of coffee, popped 3 Ibuprofen, grabbed his iPhone and headed out the door. The chef’s apartment was only 15 blocks from the restaurant so he usually enjoyed walking (his only exercise) to clear his head and loosen his stiff muscles. At 6:55 he walked through the back receiving door and into the kitchen – his domain, a home away from home.

As usual his first task was to change into a crisp, clean chef’s jacket and apron, grab his clipboard and legal pad, another cup of coffee, look in the mirror (damn, he forgot to shave this morning) and touch base with his early team. The smell of bacon, onions and home fries filled the kitchen. This aroma never got old – it was the smell of a kitchen coming to life. Jake said good morning to Lester and Marie, grabbed a piece of bacon and started his morning walk through. Lester called out: “chef- do you want some breakfast?” “Sure” came Jake’s reply as Lester gently flipped two eggs over easy and set the plate with bacon, home fries, a grilled tomato and his signature fresh fruit garnish. Jake stopped for a cursory 10-minute breakfast at the end of the line, mopped up the egg yolk with a fresh biscuit from Marie’s bakeshop and quickly returned to the task at hand. “Thanks for breakfast” was always a comment from the chef that was well received by these two dependable cooks.

The chef pulled down the BEO (Banquet and Event Order) clipboards for the next few days to review production and any last minute orders that might need to be placed: Three coffee breaks with pastries today, a small luncheon for 12 in the boardroom, a picnic lunch in the courtyard for a business group of 35 and a wedding rehearsal dinner tonight for 25. A relatively light function day giving everyone plenty of time to concentrate on prep for a’ la carte this evening and maybe allow Jake a chance to catch up on some paperwork.

Jake moved on to his daily visual inventory of coolers and storerooms to ensure that product was properly rotated, labeled and dated and assess what shape standard prep was in. Prep cooks would be arriving at 8 and Jake wanted to have their day mapped out. They would need to prep both a chicken and veal stock, fabricate tenders and strip loins for the next two days, fillet 100 pounds of snapper scheduled to arrive from Florida this morning, peel asparagus, concasse tomatoes, cut pommes frites, wash all of the greens for garde manger, chop a case of parsley and the list went on and on. It would be a very busy day for his single prep cook and culinary school intern.

After making notes on production he reviewed orders scheduled to arrive and made a few notes regarding some last minute items that his vendors and local farmers would need to forage for him. His iPhone buzzed with a reminder about the Sales Office meeting scheduled for 9 a.m. This would still give him plenty of time to review with the prep staff and contact vendors on those last minute orders. Jake had a few minutes before the prep staff arrived so he pulled his knives from the office, removed that beautiful Sabatier 10 inch French knife from it’s holster and drew the blade down the surface of a wet stone to bring back the edge. He washed the knife (his pride and joy) and started cutting vegetables for a stock mirepoix. Carrots, onions and celery were easy prey for this razor sharp blade as Jake flew through the cutting process in a few minutes. The veal bones were already in the oven and he pulled them out, placed them in a stockpot and used the pans and drippings to caramelize the mirepoix. He was just deglazing the vegetables with an inexpensive Cabernet when his two prep cooks walked in, ready to work. Jake left the remainder of the stock preparation in their hands and quickly reviewed their prep sheet for the day.

Jake had total trust in this small crew and was quite impressed with the intern that he brought on for the season. This was a young girl who was totally passionate about cooking, had great knife skills, understood process and always did things exactly as Jake had requested. He felt that she would go very far and had every intention of moving her to the line within the next few weeks.

Jake checked in with Marie about the pastries for the scheduled coffee breaks and made sure that Lester was set with breakfast and the details for the picnic lunch. The chef was now off to his Sales Office meeting (chef’s hate meetings because they have so many immediate tasks on their plate and meetings always seem to be an un-necessary distraction). The meeting focused on a review of current banquets and events and details about activities on the books for next week. Jake would need to plan a half-dozen different menus for parties coming up and, of course, the Sales Office needed them ASAP. Fifteen minutes into the meeting a call came into Jake from the kitchen; it was his young intern. “Sorry to bother you chef, but the seafood order just arrived and I think you need to come down and check it out”. Jake excused himself and returned to his kitchen, he knew that he was not going to be happy.

In the kitchen Jake found that his 100 pounds of Red Snapper had arrived from Florida, flown overnight. The fish had cloudy eyes and the gill sacks had been removed (a trick some vendors use to disguise the age of the fish). The fish was still OK by most standards, but not by Jake’s. The chef prided himself in always sourcing the best quality; freshest ingredients and he had no intention of ever shifting from that standard. Jake gritted his teeth wrestling with the desire to bang his fists on the table and release a tirade of expletives on the phone with his vendor, but he knew that this typical reaction was no longer acceptable in a politically correct world and his tone would set the mood in his kitchen. Instead he called the purveyor, lodged his complaint, said he would discard the fish and that his bill should be adjusted and that if he experienced this again he would stop buying from them and find another source. The Snapper would come off the menu for tonight and he would need to find a substitute.

It was only 9:30 a.m., another 12 hours to go and his day was already taking a turn for the worse.

{Follow part two of Jake the Chef – A Day in the Life, coming next week).

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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WE SHOULD ALL HELP TO PROTECT ARTISAN FOOD PROCESSES

10 Tuesday Jun 2014

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WE SHOULD ALL HELP TO PROTECT ARTISAN FOOD PROCESSES

I really do try to avoid getting tangled up in bureaucratic or politically influenced issues since they are so difficult to change. However, when food integrity, quality and traditions are involved, my patience starts to wear thin. Traditions are so important to a culture and essential when trying to preserve the experience of foods that are representative of that culture.

In recent years it seems that these traditions have been attacked relentlessly and in some cases even legislated out of existence. Some may be challenged because of cost, others for environmental reasons and now and then because someone reveals definitive research that disputes the need for these traditions. What is most important, from my perspective, is that we should be working harder to protect traditions even when research may demonstrate a lack of support for the traditions basis. Why should we protect some process even if it is not needed? Some things simply cannot be proven right or wrong just because of research. Some things are a mystery and quite often, cannot be adequately explained. Other times there is evidence through experience that a traditional process does, in fact, make a unique difference.

Most chefs will, as an example, prefer cooking with gas rather than electricity for a variety of reasons. The most significant is that food tastes better when cooked with an open flame. Can this be scientifically validated – maybe not entirely, yet it is, for most cooks, the definitive rule. Certain wines benefit enormously from aging in oak barrels. Aside from the wonderful undertones of flavor, many of the tannins present in wines that help with bottle aging are drawn from the barrels used during cask fermentation. Artisan breads need to be turned on wooden tables and are improved when they proof on that same wood. Lionel Poilane used many original tools and specific environments for mixing, proofing and baking his breads that in turn were uniquely his. Most would agree that Poilane breads were the best in the world.

So, where am I going with all of this? It is certainly critical that any operation that grows, processes, produces and/or packages food product for consumption be designed with guest health and safety as a top priority. At the same time we can and do throw out traditions far too quickly without having a true understanding of what is at work. What is amazing is that at the same time we embrace modern science, chemistry in particular, with little question and assume that modern science can always make everything better. The Public Health Service and local Departments of Health would love to mandate that every food production facility be surgically clean as a precaution that will protect the general public. Temperature is the friend of food preservation and when refrigeration is not feasible then science is used to add complementary preservation methods that incorporate chemicals and chemical processes. Farms claim they cannot function on a large scale without fertilizers and insecticides so science promotes modifying the genetic makeup of the seeds that farmers use so that excessive amounts of fertilizer and insecticide are not absorbed at a rate beyond what is considered “safe”. All of this is deemed acceptable and preferred over some of the traditions that were in effect for generations and still used in some parts of the world considered not as “advanced”.

Here we are, living at a time when food has never been more exciting, where a food culture in America has been emerging to become as significant as those of European countries, where people have never been more engaged with the quality and source of their food and where more people have chosen to dedicate their careers to food production and preparation than any other time in history. What fascinates people is not just the flavors and technique of cooking, but the culture that food is an integral part of.

The FDA has recently decided to enforce a nebulous standard for cheese making that will radically change the face of a wonderful, exciting, growing artisan cheese industry in the United States. Purportedly due to fears of Listeria, the FDA will no longer allow artisanal cheese makers to ripen (affinage) their cheese on wooden planks. This may not sound like a big deal, however, if you are a cheese maker it changes the whole process of making a great cheese.

http://cheeseunderground.blogspot.com/2014/06/game-changer-fda-rules-no-wooden-boards.html?m=1

“Cheese has been aged on rough wooden planks made from locally harvested spruce for over a thousand years. Rooted in ancestral tradition and sustainable local practices. The use of planks is now scientifically proven to preserve the life of the micro flora in and on the cheese, which are necessary for the formation of the rind and for the cheese’s specificity of flavors.”

Click to access 2012_1SpringComteNews.pdf

The assumption is that artisan cheese makers are not capable of operating a safe cheese ripening process using traditional methods that have significantly more time and exposure to the process than the FDA.

I am not a cheese maker, nor do I profess to fully understand the process by which some of the most extraordinary cheeses are made, ripened and prepared for us to enjoy – what I do know is how passionate, meticulous, talented and serious these cheese makers are about their product. It would seem to me that the easy way is not always the right way. It is easy to simply legislate tradition out of a process when it would likely be more historically prudent to work with cheese makers in the process of refining the inspection process that helps these food artists protect and improve their traditional methods.

Once we begin to simply accept new mandates and not question others like the use of GMO’s, chemical fertilizers, irradiation of fruits and vegetables, insecticides and excessive use of antibiotics then it is only a matter of time before our food supply becomes generic, uninteresting and maybe even harmful in the long-run.

If we don’t question this new FDA mandate then we must begin to accept that beautiful cheeses like aged goat, blue vein cheese, farm cheeses like the French Epoisses and Morbier will either disappear from the shelves of our stores or evolve into something that is less exciting and uninspired.

If we don’t question this FDA mandate then what will be next? Will organic farming become taboo in the eyes of the USDA? Will a government agency decide that the process of grape fermentation that includes natural yeasts in the air; the use of oak barrels for aging and chalk caves with generations of mold is unsafe and inappropriate? Will artisanal bread bakers find themselves unable to nurture the natural yeasts used in sour dough starters because these organic microbes are living and somewhat unpredictable? If we don’t protect those traditional processes that have been passed down from generation to generation yet accept the introduction of chemistry as a “safer” substitute, what will food growing, processing and preparation look like in fifty years?

Some may say that I am ill informed and simply do not truly understand. I will admit a level of ignorance, but will stand firm on my belief in traditions. Culture is important and the way we handle food and appreciate how our ancestors respected it is a very significant part of that culture.

I have visited, talked with, observed and built a deep appreciation for artisans. Artisan farmers, cheese makers, bread bakers, wine makers and brewers have been and continue to be the backbone of the food movement in America. They have made all of us pay attention to the source of ingredients, the way to preserve and prepare food that enhances natural flavors, aware of how important good food is to our health and well being and have made cooking in America a passionate calling for thousands of young cooks and chefs. They deserve our support and understanding.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

PHOTO IS OF THE AFFINAGE CELLARS AT JASPER HILL IN GREENSBORO, VERMONT. A photo from Farming Magazine

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THE IMPORTANCE OF DOING THINGS WELL

09 Monday Jun 2014

In case you missed this one.

Harvest America Ventures

THE IMPORTANCE OF DOING THINGS WELL

Years ago, a friend offered a statement, maybe even a mantra that has echoed within me ever since. It is one of those over-riding beacons of light that sets a course for how you live and how the world views what you do. This “mantra” is simple and succinct; it is obvious, yet profound. The statement is one that truly separates those who have a fulfilling and successful (how ever you interpret it) life from those who seem to simply “get by” and it is the focus of this article. “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.” Think about the importance of this sentence and how it might shape who you are.

Every time I pause to reflect on these words I cannot help but wonder how everything would be different if each of us lived by the significance of this charge. What if every person were to approach any…

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THE IMPORTANCE OF DOING THINGS WELL

06 Friday Jun 2014

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THE IMPORTANCE OF DOING THINGS WELL

Years ago, a friend offered a statement, maybe even a mantra that has echoed within me ever since. It is one of those over-riding beacons of light that sets a course for how you live and how the world views what you do. This “mantra” is simple and succinct; it is obvious, yet profound. The statement is one that truly separates those who have a fulfilling and successful (how ever you interpret it) life from those who seem to simply “get by” and it is the focus of this article. “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.” Think about the importance of this sentence and how it might shape who you are.

Every time I pause to reflect on these words I cannot help but wonder how everything would be different if each of us lived by the significance of this charge. What if every person were to approach any task, any opportunity, any challenge with a commitment to tackling it with an attitude of doing it well? We have all had experiences with poor performance whether it was ours or someone else’. How would everything change if each of us took that extra minute or two to do it correctly? How many times have you been faced with the need to re-do a task because it was not correct or even require someone else to revise their work for the same reason? Another great statement should be printed as a poster in every place of work and classroom: “If you don’t have the time to do it right the first time when will you find the time to do it over?”

In a restaurant, the “re-fire” of a dish that was incorrectly executed will bring a teams cooking rhythm to its knees. That extra minute (or less) to make sure the item is correctly cooked, sauced, plated or garnished will keep everyone happy, build loyalty among a restaurant’s guests and increase pride among those who cook for a living. This commitment to “doing it right” starts way before the steak is placed on the char-grill. Doing it right applies to all of the details building up to, during cooking and at the time of plating and service. Here are a few examples of a “doing it right” mindset:

1. Did the line cook study the menu and become comfortable with the cooking methods used
2. Does the line cook understand why certain techniques are important
3. Did the line cooks get enough sleep before work and have they attended to ensuring that they are healthy and well-nourished before going to work
4. Is their uniform clean and pressed
5. Are they properly groomed before entering the kitchen
6. Did the dishwasher properly clean and sanitize all of the pots, pans and utensils
7. Did the restaurant’s maintenance staff ensure that the ovens and stove tops were in perfect working order and all heat sources properly calibrated
8. Were all received supplies checked for quality, freshness and quantity
9. Did the distributor take the time to ensure that everything shipped met the standards of the operation and their own defined standards of excellence
10. Were the temperatures in storage areas and refrigeration maintained to hold all ingredients at their peak levels of quality
11. Did the line cook make sure that his or her knives were properly maintained and sharp
12. Did the morning prep cooks follow recipes and procedures to provide the best pre-production for those working the evening line
13. Were members of the service staff properly trained and subsequently informed each day about the items on the menu, where the ingredients came from, how the items were prepared and what other items on the menu were complementary
14. Did the housekeeping staff properly vacuum, wash and press linens, dust and polish, clean and sanitize restrooms, wash windows, water plants and level tables to set the stage for evening service
15. Did the wine steward make sure that all wines on the house list were in stock, properly stored and assessed for their complementary nature to the menu
16. Did the maintenance crew take the time to make sure the parking lot was swept, all exterior lights working properly, building exterior washed and painted, signs properly hung and lit and landscaping impeccably maintained
17. Is the host and all of the service staff properly uniformed and groomed
18. Are the physical menus in perfect condition
19. Did an assigned person thoroughly clean the coffee maker to be able to make that perfect cup of coffee
20. Has an assigned person checked all POS printers to make sure there is enough printer paper and ink to last through the shift
21. Has an assigned person determined that the ice machine is working properly
22. Has the ware-washing team organized the dish area with soak bins set for silverware, all racks clean and in place, fresh trash cans ready for service and the wash and rinse temperatures up to code
23. Are the line cooks set with their mise en place a good 15 minutes before service begins
24. Does everyone have enough side towels
25. Has the chef tasted all ingredients and checked temperatures before service to maximize efficiency, safety and flavor
26. The list could go on and on, but all of these steps are critical if the line cook and the service staff is to do their job right

Everyone has an important job to do. Everything impacts on everything else. The job that each of us does on a daily basis is a true reflection of who we are. This job, no matter how large or how small is equally significant. Doing a job well builds pride and makes a clear statement to others that you care. Chef Charlie Trotter, when he stood at the helm of his famous restaurant was viewed by some as obsessive and “over the top” when it came to expectations of himself and others. It would be very easy to pick apart some of the details that appeared important to only him, but in the end two things were important: he was proud of his restaurant, the staff and the product and for 25 years “Trotter’s” was considered to be one of the greatest restaurants in the world. This came from a commitment to doing it right. Did he really need to dust the backs of the pictures hanging on his dining room walls every day; did the bottles on his back bar need to be lined up alphabetically; did service staff really need to measure the distance that all flatware was placed from the edge and ends of the table? The answer to all of these questions is “yes”. Doing it right is not a part-time approach. Doing it right means doing everything right, all of the time, or at least striving for that end result. Good enough – never is.

“If you strive like crazy for perfection—an all-out assault on total perfection—at the very least you will hit a high level of excellence, and then you might be able to sleep at night.”

Charlie Trotter

The question that everyone should ask when it comes to every task is” “could I have done this better”? If you are committed to doing it right then the answer to this question will always be: “it could have been better”. In the end, the most important critique that people receive should be from them. Be your own worst critic and strive to constantly improve.

The student should take the time to never turn in a paper that has failed a serious personal critique. The sign that a entrepreneur places in the window of his or her store should be professionally printed and reflective of the experience or product quality that he or she wants to sell. The general contractor should always take that extra 30 minutes at the end of each day to clean their work area. The farmer selling CSA shares should make sure that every subscriber receives the freshest ingredients each week. The server should ensure that the table his or her guest sits at is level and well appointed. Doing it right applies to everything for everybody, all of the time.

Imagine the impact. “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.”

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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WANTED: SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT OPERATOR

29 Thursday May 2014

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WANTED: SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT OPERATOR

Here it is – the formula for a successful restaurant – almost a guarantee. There still are many people, for some strange reason, who continue to dust off their entrepreneurial suit and turn to restaurant ownership as a way to personal fortune or at least an opportunity for expression and public service. For all who fit this mold this is my best effort at providing a road map to potential (if you are lucky) success:

[] IDENTIFY A TARGET MARKET: Many believe that the starting point is concept development, however, building a concept restaurant without understanding who your potential market is would be the quickest way to failure.

[] KNOW YOUR TARGET MARKET: Qualitative and quantitative studies will help to determine what your potential market is willing to purchase, when they are likely to purchase, why they are likely to purchase and how you might best deliver the product message to them.

[] IDENTIFY YOUR COMPETITION: Surprisingly your competition goes beyond the obvious. A French concept is not only in competition with other French concepts, but rather with any other restaurant in close proximity to yours.

[] KNOW YOUR COMPETITION: Study them, follow their website and Facebook page, visit their operation as a guest, talk to others who patronize that competition, observe the clientele who spend time and money there and catalogue their strengths and weaknesses.

[] BUILD A CONCEPT THAT ADDRESSES YOUR TARGET MARKET AND COMPETITIONS AREAS OF WEAKNESS: This is not to state that an operator and chef should avoid creating something unique and stretch the food perceptions of their anticipated customer, however, your research should reveal those items that customers are prepared to order. Success is best realized when customer needs are addressed.

[] HIRE THE RIGHT KEY PLAYERS: The Chef, Restaurant Manager, and lead service staff is initially the most important hires. These individuals will become your organizers, communicators, expeditors of the company vision and the driving force as you move forward. They should be creative and talented in their respective disciplines, but most importantly business savvy.

[] SPEND TIME BUILDING A TEAM WITH OPERATIONAL CHEMISTRY: Work ethic, attitude, dependability, humility, service orientation and a passion for the restaurant business are the real keys to your success as a restaurateur. There is nothing more important than building this team with your key players.

[] BUY THE BEST RAW MATERIALS THAT YOU CAN: Wolfgang Puck said it best: “Buy the best raw materials and try not to screw them up.”
[] ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE STANDARDS AND THEY ARE ALWAYS OBSERVED: Food preparation, plating, service technique, cleanliness, cost controls, tracking customer reactions, problem solving – all of these processes should have definitive standard operating procedures that every staff member understands and follows.

[] OPENING A RESTAURANT IS MORE EXPENSIVE THAN YOU THINK: Make sure that you have the funds to open and cover expenses for your first year (at least). As you build up to opening you will spend many difficult days writing checks. What ever you budget for the opening is never enough. Watch your pennies, but know the expenses will add up quickly.

[] TRAIN, TRAIN, TRAIN: Training must be on going. Formal orientation for new employees, technique training, wine tastings, food plating demonstrations, regular staff meetings with review of operations, daily pre-meal presentations and end of service recaps are all critical components of an effective staff development program. It pays off tenfold!

[] FEEDBACK IS THE BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS: At first, it is human nature to resist soliciting feedback, but once a program is in place (comment cards, on-line surveys, encouraging employees to speak their mind during meetings, management open door policy and walking the dining room to observe guest reactions are effective ways to stay in tune with your collective performance).

[] EDUCATE YOUR GUEST: Customers are interested in food and beverage like never before. A well-trained staff can and should provide opportunities for guests to discover more every time they dine in your operation. Recommendations on wine, describing exceptional menu items, telling the story of food rather than listing ingredients and sharing interesting information about the restaurant’s history will go a long way towards building guest relations and return business.

[] CREATE A RESTAURANT PERSONALITY: Whether it is you, your manager, the chef, an entertaining bartender or a designated host – every successful restaurant has an identified personality; someone who becomes synonymous with the restaurant name – a person that attracts a return clientele. A restaurant without a personality is just a business.

[] WORK AT BUILDING A RESTAURANT EXPERIENCE: A memorable meal is more than just great food. The experience includes the sights and sounds, unique hospitality, food presentation, bar showmanship, building ambience, and personality of all who work for your restaurant. It is the experience that brings them back.

[] CONTROL, CONTROL, CONTROL: Buying right, taking scheduled inventories, portioning ingredients, following recipes and formulas, scheduling employees efficiently, tracking your advertising expenses, watch waste, lock coolers and storerooms, track sales abstracts and adjust menus when certain items do not sell, budget and assess any variances – these are some of the most important processes that an owner can implement and measure. Without them it is impossible to reach your financial goals.

[] ESTABLISH ACCURATE SELLING PRICES: Selling price determination cannot be a guessing game, nor can it simply reflect a price that compares with that of the competition. Prices are based on knowing all of the costs associated with the building of a dish, using a simple formula of Plate Cost/Food Cost % and then assessing the impact of competition and what the threshold for prices might be in the current market. Pricing is a science and an art.

[] TURN THE EXPERIENCE INTO A VALUE STATEMENT: Value should not be solely about price – if it is then you have failed. If the experience is strong than so is its perception of worth. To this add an emphasis on effective upselling to build check averages and your formula is beginning to reach its intended solution.

[] COMMUNICATE EFFECTIVELY: Use all of the available tools to communicate your message internally and externally, but be cautious of those that cost money without any measurement of effectiveness. Your website, Facebook Page, Blog and email blasts cost very little and approach a defined market. Internally, the best communication is face-to-face, but consider using payroll stuffers, newsletters and email communications for this audience as well.

[] SWEAT THE SMALL STUFF: Everything in the restaurant is important. It is all in the details: a clean parking lot, well appointed signage, spotless windows, floors, walls, bathrooms, kitchen, china, glassware and flatware, beautifully detailed plate presentations, flavors and aromas, greetings and sincere service, appropriate alcoholic beverages that are geared towards your target audience, a great cup of coffee and spectacular desserts – this and so much more are essential if you are to build a successful brand.

[] BE REALISTIC: No matter how good you are, even if every aspect of the formula is firing on all cylinders, the likelihood that your restaurant will be immediately profitable is very low. You should anticipate that the first year may be breakeven at best, year two should be better and if you stay focused year three will be the turning point. BE PATIENT!

[] BE RELENTLESS: Don’t let your guard down. Every minute, every day, every season this formula cannot waiver. This is the task of the owner: keep everyone focused – ALWAYS.

[] HOPE FOR LUCK AND BE GRATEFUL WHEN IT IS PRESENT: When all is said and done, there are far too many details and variables for any formula to be consistently effective.

I wish you well.
PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
psorgule@hotmail.com

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RE-WRITING THE COMMANDMENTS OF THE KITCHEN

21 Wednesday May 2014

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RE-WRITING THE COMMANDMENTS OF THE KITCHEN

What are commandments as they relate to anything and everything in life? We are all familiar with the stone tablets that Moses carried down from Mount Sinai that has, for all intents and purposes set the tone for what it means to be a Christian, the teachings of the Bible which have been interpreted in numerous ways by various faiths or the Koran and Bhagavad Gita that for centuries have defined what it means to be a devote follower of Islam or Hindu religions, but what do commandments have to do with specific fields of study, professions or work environments? In fact, these occupational commandments are meant to serve as universal standards of understanding that define how serious professionals within those professions or work environments – act and perform.

If you were to Google “kitchen commandments” you would find numerous iterations (1,960,000 options to be exact) of what individuals believe to be the “standards” by which all professional cooks and chefs must carry themselves. The problem is that most of these are focused on one persons view of what is important and frequently this being the case, I thought that I would take a stab at it from the perspective of this view is not truly connected to what one would consider “universal thought”. So, a person (me) who can now step back and look at the kitchen from the 5,000 foot level (since I am no longer spending 70 hours a week in the kitchen), from the perspective of a person who has been a cook, a chef, a manager, a teacher and a student of food and food service. Take it for what it is worth the following is the “old” commandments compared to a more relevant “contemporary” counterpoint.

COMMANDMENT ONE:

1) OLD RULE: THE CHEF ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT, BUT HE IS NEVER WRONG. There are so many things wrong with this statement that it is difficult to decide where to begin. First, “HE” infers that the chef is always male. There are many incredible women chefs holding this ultimate position in highly respected restaurants today. Second, the belief that the chef is somehow endowed with the ability to always be right does not allow room for true collaboration and teamwork in the kitchen.

NEW RULE: THE CHEF ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT, SO HE OR SHE MUST LEARN TO SOLICIT INPUT FROM HIS OR HER TEAM. IN THE MOMENT, THE CHEF MAY NEED TO MAKE AN EDUCATED DECISION, BUT SHOULD NEVER AVOID TAPING INTO THE POWERFUL BANK OF IDEAS AND SOLUTIONS THAT EXIST AMONG KITCHEN TEAM MEMBERS.

2) OLD RULE: THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT. This assumes that a customer’s base of knowledge and understanding is so broad that we cannot nor should not ever question their requests or demands.

NEW RULE: THE CUSTOMER ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT, THUS OUR RESPONSIBILITY IS TO SERVICE AND EDUCATE. EDUCATION IS POWER AND WE HOLD THE KEY TO BUILDING A CUSTOMER’S KNOWLEDGE BASE AND SETTING THE STAGE FOR A BETTER GUEST EXPERIENCE.

3) OLD RULE: A RESTAURANT’S MENU SHOULD REFLECT WHAT THE CUSTOMER WANTS TO BUY. This, of course, is the basic premise of “safe” marketing. With so much competition in the marketplace it is no longer acceptable to simply “play it safe”. Chefs and restaurants must create a niche for themselves and then constantly evaluate its relevance. Mass customization is the rule of thumb for a new breed of restaurant and chef. Plain vanilla is rarely the flavor of choice when it comes to selecting a restaurant in today’s economy.

NEW RULE: A RESTAURANTS MENU SHOULD BE EXCITING, INTERESTING, UNIQUE, FILLED WITH FLAVORFUL ITEMS, CONSISTENTLY EXECUTED AND VALUE FOCUSED.

4) OLD RULE: FOOD IS A LOSS LEADER IN RESTAURANTS – THE BAR IS WHERE YOU MAKE MONEY. No restaurant can afford to take this approach anymore. There is little question that alcohol can be profitable and the effort and costs involved in bringing it to the guest are minimal in comparison to the effort and expense incurred in preparing and presenting food that is created in the kitchen, however, chefs MUST run profitable operations, they must control costs, buy right and plan menus that can contribute to the overall success of the restaurant business.

NEW RULE: RESTAURANTS ARE PROFIT CENTERS AND EACH AREA, INCLUDING THE KITCHEN MUST FOCUS ON HOW TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE PROFITABILITY OF THE RESTAURANT.

5) OLD RULE: HIRE THE BEST PEOPLE. It would be hard to argue with the logic behind this statement, however, the competition for the “best” people would drive their worth up to the level of your regional professional athlete. The other interesting thing about the “best” people is that they are often times high maintenance with more than ample conditions and excuses (sorry for the generalization). It is much more realistic, rewarding and economical to hire good and energetic people and develop them into great employees.

NEW RULE: HIRE INTERESTING, HARD WORKING, ENERGETIC AND TEAM ORIENTED PEOPLE, INVEST IN THEIR TRAINING, SUPPORT THEM, CRITIQUE THEM, CHALLENGE THEM AND BUILD THEM INTO EXCEPTIONAL COOKS, CHEFS AND LEADERS.

6) OLD RULE: COMMIT 100% TO COOKING AND THE KITCHEN IF YOU WANT TO GET AHEAD. What has been interesting to watch over the past three decades is a new breed of chef who brings an open mind and worldly view to the kitchen and the restaurant. Chefs are visiting the source of inspiration, becoming historians and scientists, agriculturalists and ecologists, painters, writers, musicians and magicians as they seek to identify what it means to be a kitchen leader today. A chef who has limited his or her fluid approach towards life’s experiences is at a disadvantage in the 21st century.

NEW RULE: COMMIT 100% TO AN INTERESTING AND DIVERSE LIFE AND APPLY THOSE EXPERIENCES TO THE KITCHEN, THE PLATE AND THE RESTAURANT.

7) OLD RULE: COOKING IS AN ART, BAKING IS A SCIENCE. We have discovered that the art and the science have begun to blur when it comes to cooking. Harold McGee would certainly disagree with this old rule as would Ferran Adria, Grant Achatz, and Wylie Dufresne. The art in cooking always relied on the chef’s experience to adjust a recipe or procedure to compensate for inconsistencies in raw materials, seasonality and customer preference. Today we know that much of that “chef intuition” can be explained and even controlled with an understanding of the science behind cooking.

NEW RULE: ART AND SCIENCE ARE SYMBIOTIC WHEN IT COMES TO COOKING. GOOD CHEFS UNDERSTAND THE “WHY” WHEN IT COMES TO COOKING SO THAT THEY CAN DETERMINE THE “HOW” NECESSARY TO ACCOMPLISH THE GOALS ASSOCIATED WITH A PARTICULAR DISH. THE ART COMES FROM AN UNDERSTANDING OF BOTH HOW AND WHY.

8) OLD RULE: GREAT CHEFS MAKE GREAT RESTAURANTS. This may be one of the greatest misunderstandings associated with the food business. It is teamwork, a shared passion, on-going training, high standards, terrific raw materials and a commitment to excellence that make a great restaurant.

NEW RULE: GREAT TEAMS MAKE GREAT RESTAURANTS.

9) OLD RULE: THE CHEF IS THE LEADER OF THE KITCHEN AND THUS, THE MOST IMPORTANT PERSON IN THE OPERATION. As chefs we certainly want to believe this, but it would be similar to stating that the coach is the most important person associated with a sporting team or the CEO is the driving force behind a company’s success. These individuals certainly play a significant role and at times maybe the MOST important role, but even the most noteworthy leader would admit that the MVP role changes frequently and maybe moment to moment. In restaurants it could be argued that the dishwasher is the most important person. If you don’t understand this just walk into a busy restaurant any night when the dishwasher is late, doesn’t show up, or calls in sick. The operation falls apart.

NEW RULE: LEADERSHIP IN A KITCHEN EVOLVES AND ALLOWS ANY INDIVIDUAL EMPLOYEE THE OPPORTUNITY AND CHALLENGE OF BEING THE FORCE THAT KEEPS THE SHIP AFLOAT.

10) OLD RULE: GREAT FOOD IS THE BACKBONE OF A CONSISTENTLY SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT. If this were only true then there would be a much greater success rate among restaurants. It is the “experience” of dining that feeds a successful restaurant. That experience certainly involves great food, but also relies heavily on service, ambience, location, uniqueness, hospitality and timing.

NEW RULE: IT IS THE EXPERIENCE THAT BRINGS CUSTOMERS BACK TIME AND AGAIN. CHEF’S NEED TO SHARE THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR SUCCESS WITH EVERY PERSON INVOLVED IN THE DELIVERY or RECEIPT OF THAT WONDERFUL PLATE OF FOOD.

Your commandments might differ to some degree, but I would challenge anyone to find fault with these new realities. We must never forget the commandments that got us to where we are today while keeping an open mind to those changes that are molding the restaurant industry of today.

PLAN BETTER – TRAINING HARDER

Harvest America Ventures
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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THINGS THAT EVERY CULINARY SCHOOL GRADUATE MUST REMEMBER

12 Monday May 2014

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THINGS THAT EVERY CULINARY SCHOOL GRADUATE MUST REMEMBER

This is the time of the year when culinary schools pass out diplomas and send their graduates out into the world of professional cooking. These young culinarians are eager, full of energy and loaded with ambitious ideas about who they are, what they are capable of today and where will be in a short period of time. Many are ready and some are not, but with that degree in hand they step outside in pursuit of their dreams. As graduates begin the process of starting their career I always feel compelled to leave them with a checklist that will, I am sure, serve them well in the years to come. These are not my thoughts alone; they represent the collective feelings of chefs, managers, fellow cooks and restaurateurs with whom I have had the pleasure to work. So..I would encourage each graduate to read and re-read these thoughts or lessons, fold them and keep them in your wallet for reference multiple times during your career with food.

1. TREASURE TRADITIONS: The profession of cooking has a long and arduous history. Many, many chefs came before you and tirelessly worked to build a place for cooking in the halls of serious professionals. How they looked, acted, approached others, relished food and the processes that they developed over decades will always and should always have a place in your consciousness and in your actions as a serious cook. Don’t forget what came before.
2. BE PATIENT: Your career is a journey, not a destination. It will likely take you 5 years or so to get to that first sous chef position and maybe another 5-10 before reaching Executive Chef. This is an investment you must be willing to make.
3. STAY PROFESSIONAL: Yes, there are numerous examples of unprofessional kitchen environments to choose from. There are those who yell and scream, belittle and undermine, treat others with contempt, fail to thank but rather choose to always find fault; those who are careless with product and do not respect their commitment to the source, the place or the guest. Do not fall into the trap. You have been taught to take the high ground. Stay there and be the example for others.
4. RESPECT OTHERS: One of the most beautiful things about working in kitchens is that they are some of the most diverse working environments to be found anywhere. This is a fantastic opportunity for you to learn about other cultures and beliefs. Remember that at least in the kitchen everyone is equal. Respect others for who they are and they will respect you.
5. YES CHEF: As much as you think you know, there is so much more to learn. The person who holds the title of chef has invested many years to reach the position that he or she currently holds. It is his or her kitchen! The best way to learn and set a path for professional growth is to respect the chain of command and know that if the chef expects something done a certain way, your response should always be YES CHEF (unless it violates rule #3 and in that case still say Yes Chef but start looking for a new environment).
6. THE FOUNDATIONS WILL NEVER DO YOU WRONG: All those hours that you spent in your foundational classes in school were the most important parts of your education. How to hold a knife, vegetable cut dimensions, the basic cooking methods, how to caramelize, the proper way to build a stock, etc. are relevant no matter what style of cooking or type of food that you will work with.
7. KEEP YOUR KNIVES SHARP: Each day before you start your shift make sure that your tools are in order. Use a stone and keep that chef’s steel close to your work area. A sharp knife makes the work much easier, reduces the opportunity for injury (as long as you respect the knife) and is kinder to the product you are working with. A serious chef will check your knives and know how serious you are as a cook.
8. SANITATION AND FOOD SAFETY IS YOUR OBLIGATION: Nothing is more important than proper food handling and your commitment to the safety and well being of your guest. Don’t ever forget those rules of operation that were taught in Food Sanitation.
9. RESPECT THE SOURCE: Food is not something that simply appears off the tailgate of your local or regional food vendor’s truck. A farmer, producer or manufacturer somewhere dedicated their passion to preparing those raw materials for your hands. It is the dedication of the farmer that makes a carrot delicious. Your job is to protect, nurse and define those natural flavors.
10. BE DEPENDABLE: You will quickly learn that the most important trait of a kitchen employee is being dependable. Will they show up on time, with the right attitude, prepared to work and consistent in their approach to their responsibilities? Be the example. The chef can work with any other shortcomings, but a lack of dependability has no place in a kitchen.
11. LEARNING NEVER STOPS: The diploma in your hand is not an end game. Walking across that stage was just the beginning of your formal education. Every day in the kitchen provides a new opportunity to learn something that was not part of your repertoire before or improve on something that you are familiar with. Grab on to every opportunity to learn and know that SOMETIMES THAT MIGHT MEAN “OFF THE CLOCK”!
12. LOOK CHALLENGES SQUARELY IN THE EYE: “I can’t”, just doesn’t fly. When a person says, “I can’t” what they really mean is: “I won’t”. If you don’t know how then ask or research the answer. You will never further your career unless you understand that the only answer is YES, I WILL.
13. STAY HEALTHY: You will be of little use to a chef if you are not in good health. Eat a balanced diet, exercise, maintain a healthy weight, see a doctor yearly, drink in moderation, get enough sleep and maintain those important relationships with friends and significant others. It is the WHOLE person who will become that successful chef in the future.
14. TAKE CARE OF YOUR FEET: You may think that this is a redundant statement after #13, but your feet are SO IMPORTANT to your well being as a cook. Buy the right shoes, change them during long shifts, wear white socks when working, soak them after those twelve -hour days and never take them for granted.
15. RESPECT THE EQUIPMENT IN THE KITCHEN: You will quickly learn that equipment will not hurt a person; it is the person who does not respect the equipment who will hurt him or herself. Meat slicers (if I see another person cleaning a slicer while it is still plugged in I will go ballistic) are only dangerous in the wrong hands, pressure and convective steamers will only burn those people who don’t use common sense, wet towels and hot pans do not work well together, liquids and hot oil in a pan are not friends, 10 gallon stock pots full of liquid that is not properly lifted and carried will be unforgiving to your back, and that great tool: the mandoline will do the same things to your fingers that it does to a zucchini (use protective gloves or a guard when slicing). Then there is the cost of all that equipment that must be shown respect. The blade from the Robot Coupe does not belong in the pot sink (you use it – you clean it), the dicing blade for that same machine falls under the same rules. Each piece of that equipment will cost the operation hundreds of dollars to replace because of your carelessness.
16. WE ARE ALL DISHWASHERS IN GOD’S EYES: An idle moment in the kitchen is a chance to jump in and help someone else. That dishwasher has an awful job, but one that is absolutely crucial to the restaurant. Help him or her out! Ten minutes jumping in on the dish machine or washing some of your own pots will show that person that you care and be reflective of point #4.
17. BECOME A SERVICE PIONEER: We work so that others may play. The guest is the guest and your task is to allow them to have an exceptional experience in the restaurant. Don’t fight their requests, learn to adapt and WOW them with your desire to go the extra mile.
18. READ, TRAVEL AND INVEST IN BUILDING THE RIGHT FRIENDS: Great chefs are worldly individuals who understand other cultures either through hands-on experiences or at least by reading as much as they can about them. Broaden your horizons, associate with other cooks who are equally interested in this endeavor and make the investment in this important part of your life.
19. BUILD YOUR NETWORK OF INFLUENCE AND STAY CONNECTED: Join professional organizations like the American Culinary Federation, Retail Bakers Association, National Restaurant Association, Chefs Collaborative, Slow Food, USA, Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, etc. and make a list of those individuals and groups that would be beneficial to your career. Seek them out, introduce yourself and stay connected. Most importantly – find a mentor who is willing to take you under his or her wing and offer you honest and sincere advice along the way. All of these connections may be integral to your future.
20. INVEST IN BUILDING YOUR BRAND: How do you want people to view you? When individuals call your references how would you like those people to portray you? What words would accurately describe the type of person and cook you are? Spend the time and invest the effort in clearly defining and maintaining this image. It is your brand that will be important in the future. Remember it is hard work to build a positive brand, but only takes a single mistake to ruin it. Be aware of this, even with the little things like: the message on your voicemail, the posts of you on Facebook, what you say on Twitter, how you dress and groom yourself, the language that you use and so many other things that will set the tone for your brand. Do what you want, but be aware of how you may be perceived.
21. GIVE BACK: You are fortunate to have a degree or the experience to hold down a significant job. Others have helped you along the way. You are able to work at a job that gives you immense satisfaction. Your career, if you set the stage properly, will have very few limitations. Knowing this should occasionally give you pause. Take that minute to do something for others. Volunteer at a soup kitchen, teach a class, help a farmer, donate to a worthy cause, work on a fund raising dinner, take the time to thank your teachers and give back to the college or school of hard knocks that brought you to this place. Food people are very generous – be one of them.

You have chosen a fantastic career. Foodservice will provide you with a great deal of satisfaction, some trials and tribulations, opportunities to grow and experience other parts of the country or world, meet interesting and passionate people, serve others and bring sunshine to their day and create beautiful food with your own hands. It is a truly special career track and you should feel fortunate to be part of it. Best of luck –make your success – it is in your hands.

I would recommend two essential books for your early library. Rush out (I am serious) today to purchase them. This is your first “post graduate” investment in your future.

Letters to a Young Chef by: Chef Daniel Boulud

Tasting Success by: Chef Charles Carroll

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

11 Sunday May 2014

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LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

It takes many years for a good cook to become a great cook, to become a chef. There is an enormous amount of experience that leads to the ability to lead a kitchen, to create a vision and set the tone for consistently excellent performance. Aside from a strong understanding of foundational cooking technique, the chef must have accumulated an understanding of purchasing, menu planning, human resource management, inventory management, cost control, artistic presentations of food, sanitation and safety, public relations, wine, as well as communication and brand building. Yes, this position is a culmination of a lifetime of skill and aptitude development, however, chefs must never lose sight of the role that line cooks play in the daily successful operation of a kitchen.

Line cooks are the lifeblood of any professional kitchen operation. It is, after all, the line cook who has the responsibility to prepare, develop flavors and consistently execute the menu under what outsiders would consider – inhumane conditions. The chef may be in the driver’s seat, but the line cook is the engine. A driver without a well running engine would not get too far.

I am currently finishing another terrific, accurate book on “a day in the life of a kitchen” that truly depicts the intensity, challenges and incredible skill that a line cook must possess. In this portrayal (Sous Chef, by: Michael Gibney); the author, while living the role of the second in command pays true homage to the line cooks who make his success possible. From experience there are a few realities that drive me to acknowledge the significance of the young, upwardly mobile and sometimes satisfied to stay where they are, pirates of the line.

1. Let’s face it being a line cook is more often than not a younger person’s sport. The physical demands of working the line are only surpassed by the mental acuity that is required as line cooks attempt to keep track of multiple a’ la minute preparations, timings, plating’s and interconnections with other cooks on the line. In my last position as a chef I knew that I could work as hard and longer than most of the cooks in the restaurant (I paid for it with aches and pains that rarely went away), but the older I got the harder it was to process the rapid fire mental activity that is the routine of a line cook. Bending over hundreds of times, 120 degree heat, burns, cuts, clanging of pans, and the speed with which a line cook must act and react is way too challenging for most over the age of 40.
2. Each station on the line is a private entrepreneurship. The set-up, calculated mise en place, position of each ingredient from sliced garlic to clarified butter, from minced shallots to pour bottles of white wine and olive oil and from tongs (a line cooks most important tool) to neatly folded side towels is uniquely that cooks. True, the chef may initially train a cook how to set-up a station, but once they have grown into the position they will inevitably treat that area as if it were their own business. This “seasoning” as a line cook is absolutely critical for the efficient operation of a kitchen and once it is set, it needs to be that way – always.
3. Although a good portion of the pre-work for the line may be done by an earlier prep shift (stocks, mother sauces [where they are still relevant], peeled shallots and garlic, braised meats, fabrication of steaks and chops, filleting of fish, trimming and blanching of vegetables, etc.), it is the line cook who must know how to cook as completely as he or she knows how to breathe. He or she must know how to cook a perfect steak, when to turn a fish on the plancha, the right time to add a splash of wine, how to season items in a pan by holding that salt and pepper above the dish and allowing it to evenly forecast, how much time is left in the cooking process so that the plating of a table’s order can be orchestrated and most importantly; how to taste (a great line cook MUST have a well define palate). The line cook needs to have an eye for plate presentation even though the layout may have originated from the chef and must know how important it is to take a few extra seconds to show the finesse to place each item at its perfect spot on the plate. Maintaining the discipline for all of this to take place is hard to imagine.
4. The chef will undoubtedly know how all of this is done and he or she probably taught the cook early on how to manage these steps, but most chefs, once they reach that position would find it very difficult to step in and do the job as well as a line cook.
5. Finally, the line cook, as I pointed out in a previous article (Life Lessons from a Line Cook) https://harvestamericacues.com/2014/04/11/life-lessons-from-a-line-cook/ must be a consummate communicator and in most cases “listener”. The chef, on a busy night sets the cadence for the line and is the sole voice in the kitchen. Service staff will use the chef/expeditor as the portal for communication with cooks, but line personnel know that it is that voice that they must tune into. When a directive or question is posed, the line cook must zero in on the command, acknowledge it and then network with other stations as they execute the directive. Sometimes this networking is handled with simple eye contact and a nod, other times it will be succinct words like “fire, plate, garnish, sauce, hot, pick-up, hold, etc.”. All of this takes time to develop, but once it is there, the line can hum on all cylinders like each station entrepreneur is electrically connected to each other station and the chef/expeditor. This invaluable relationship is magical and goes way beyond the importance of the chef as an individual.

The dining room may be full of people who have heard of, know about, met or would like to meet – the chef. They may, in fact, have come to the restaurant to try the “chef’s food”, but rarely do they truly understand that the chef was probably never involved in the actual cooking of the dish. The chef is in the limelight and he or she has earned that position through many years of extremely hard work, but the chef could never function without the efforts of the team of line cooks who stay behind those swinging doors. The chef knows this all too well and although he or she may not thank the line enough until there is a gap in staffing, this knowledge that they are where they are because of the dedication and seasoned entrepreneurial spirit of the hourly paid line cook is always present in a chef’s subconscious.

It may seem that I spend an inordinate amount of time talking about cooks, even more than chefs, it is because having experienced a return to a great and reasonably busy chefs position in the later part of my career I learned very quickly how much I depended on these crucial members of the team.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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READ THIS EXCELLENT PORTRAYAL OF KITCHEN LIFE:

Sous Chef
by: Michael Gibney

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WHY DO PEOPLE OWN RESTAURANTS

07 Wednesday May 2014

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WHY DO PEOPLE OWN RESTAURANTS

Having worked in the restaurant field for more than four decades, I have often wondered why it is that people take the leap into restaurant ownership. There are numerous documented reasons why this is not a good idea, yet thousands of people each year choose to plop down their life savings, convince family members to chip in and somehow manage to take out a bank loan (banks typically shy away from restaurants) because: “they have an idea for a restaurant” that can’t fail.

At last count there were in the neighborhood of 990,000 free standing restaurants in the United States. This does not include Business and Industry operations (offices, plants, hospitals, schools, etc.) or catering companies that dot the American landscape. Total freestanding restaurant sales in the United States last year topped $475 billion with another $205 billion from those B and I segment operations. 70% of those freestanding restaurants are single-unit operations.

(data from the National Restaurant Association – Pocket Fact book)

Click to access Factbook2014_LetterSize.pdf

What few can seem to agree on is the failure rate for those restaurants. Some figures are as high as 66% failure rate in the first year, but that is debatable. In any case, the failure rate is significant. From my experience, those who remain in business tend to struggle and depend more on positive cash flow than they do on actual profitability. So, the question remains: “why do people own restaurants”? I felt that it would be important to look at some of those reasons: a few are admirable, some are funny and others just plain sad. Since I have spent many years preparing others to enter this field I felt that it was only fair and right that these realities be placed squarely on the table.

First, let’s keep in mind that every serious cook and chef that I know, in his or her heart, would love to own their own restaurant. In fact, I have wrestled with this urge for the full length of my career, but have never taken that leap (maybe the smartest thing that I have NOT done). This may be part of that “American Dream” to own your own, be your own boss, answer to no one except yourself and hope that anyone can create the next “big thing”. We admire those who make a go of it and do so with great success and feel for those who try and fail. What are people thinking when they jump to become a restaurateur and what is the formula for success?

These are my observations (un-scientific):

WHY DO PEOPLE OWN RESTAURANTS:

1. OWNING A RESTAURANT LOOKS LIKE A QUICK WAY TO GET RICH: well, those of us who live it day in and day out know that this is a pipe dream. Some may look at the prices on menus and the cost of that steak in their local grocery store and come to an immediately conclusion that restaurants make money hand over fist. The truth is – if a restaurant is on their game, controlling costs, training staff and managing vendors they might make 5-6% net. Unfortunately, most restaurants are not that astute. Restaurants are faced every day with waste, spoilage, theft, rising prices of raw materials and a struggle to convince their staff that every penny counts.
2. IF I OWNED A RESTAURANT I COULD ENJOY HAVING MY FRIENDS VISIT AND BE DAZZLED BY MY HOSPITALITY: Owning a restaurant is where you are able to clearly separate TRUE friends from people who are looking for an opportunity for a “deal”. “I know the owner” are four words that every server, bartender and chef dreads hearing.
3. I LOVE COOKING AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY MANY PEOPLE THAT MY FOOD IS SO GOOD THAT I SHOULD OPEN A RESTAURANT: wow – there is a significant difference between cooking for family and friends and bumping those numbers up to 100 plus every night of the week. If you are the owner – no matter how much you like to cook, you will not have the time to do so, nor should you. Cooking is the fun part – you are an owner now and must dedicate your time to running the business (marketing, accounting, hiring and evaluating staff, customer relations, problem solving, training, etc.).
4. IT WILL BE SO MUCH FUN BEING A HOST AND WELCOMING GUESTS TO MY RESTAURANT EXPERIENCE: Yes, hospitality can be enjoyable, but first and foremost it is hard work. You must be bright, positive and understanding every minute of every day. Most guests are nice people who appreciate what you and your staff do, but there is a 5% group that will eat up most of your time and energy. These are the ones who always find fault, know more than you, start with a negative attitude and leave with an even greater one. They still need to be served with a smile.
5. I LOVE FOOD AND WILL HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY TO EAT LIKE A KING OR QUEEN EVERY DAY: You might for a short period of time until you see how much that food is costing the operation. A month into it and you will be happy with rice and beans with the rest of the staff. Besides, after a while you won’t even want to look at those beautiful items on your menu.
6. I AM A PEOPLE PERSON AND WILL ENJOY HIRING AND WORKING WITH PEOPLE WHO HAVE DEDICATED THEIR LIVES TO FOOD AND SERVICE: There are many who are those dedicated disciples of the restaurant business. These are the people that I have always tried to hire and develop, but finding them is not always easy. Additionally, no matter how focused a person is on food and service – they will have bad days and guess what: their attitude becomes your problem to solve. As a restaurant owner you will spend as much if not more time on human resource issues than you do on serving the guest.
7. OWNING A RESTAURANT IS A PUBLIC SERVICE THAT GIVES GUESTS AN OPPORTUNITY TO ENJOY AN EXPERIENCE THAT MIGHT NOT BE AVAILABLE OTHERWISE: well, yes – you are in the business of creating an experience and this is what people do seek out. It will be that “experience” that brings them back and builds your reputation as a restaurateur. This is a noble objective, but never lose sight of the fact that you are running a business, not a non-profit organization. The experience is your responsibility, but so is maintaining a financially successful business that allows the experience to continue.

The restaurant business provides ample opportunities for creative people, individuals who love to serve, passionate cooks, budding entrepreneurs, food and wine lovers and gracious hosts, but the restaurant forum for these activities must be treated as any other business if it is to support those dreams and aspirations.

Like many others I follow the great success stories: Alfred Portale and his staff are celebrating the 30th anniversary of Gotham Bar and Grill in New York City. This has consistently been rated one of the top restaurants in America and one that continues to dazzle guests with wonderful food and hospitality. LeBernadin is a Michelin rated restaurant in New York that recently made the list of the best restaurants in the world. Chef Eric Ripert runs a tight ship that ensures that this is consistently the case. Thomas Keller is world renown for the “finesse” offered at The French Laundry and Per Se and his warm “down-to-earth” offerings at Bouchon and Ad Hoc. His relentless pursuit and insistence on perfection is common knowledge among those in the field. Mario Batali has elevated Italian Cuisine and the “fun” connected with dining in his catalog of restaurants from Babbo to his collaboration with Eataly in New York and Chicago. Restaurateurs like Drew Nieporent from the Myriad Group, Danny Meyer from Union Square Hospitality Group, Richard Melman from Lettuce Entertain You and Jean-Georges Vongerichten from Jean-Georges Restaurants continue to reach new pinnacles of success. So what is their secret?

Most restaurateurs would agree on a simple list:
INCREDIBLE WORK ETHIC
THE RIGHT LOCATION
CONSISTENCY
SUFFICIENT CAPITAL
SUPERIOR STAFF
INVESTMENT IN TRAINING
A GREAT PRODUCT
EFFECTIVE MARKETING
TIGHT CONTROLS
A SERVICE MENTALITY
and… A LARGE DOSE OF LUCK
_______________________________________________________________________

**NOTE: The picture in this article was taken using the “Waterlogue” app

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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SO GOD MADE A CHEF

01 Thursday May 2014

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SO GOD MADE A CHEF

A Most Noble Profession
© Copyright 2014

This article was written in recognition of the wonderful piece that was done by Paul Harvey paying homage to American farmers. This version is a tribute to chefs and cooks who care for the crops and livestock that the farmer nurtures and in turn build flavors and textures to allow cooking and eating to rise from a process to an art form. In the words of Robert Bulwer-Lytton:

“We may live without poetry, music and art;
We may live without conscience and live without heart;
We may live without friends;
We may live without books;
But civilized man cannot live without cooks.”

SO GOD MADE A CHEF

Adaption by: Paul Sorgule

And on the ninth day (after making a farmer), God looked down on his planned paradise and said: “I need something to eat.”

So, God made a chef.

God said, “I need somebody willing to get up before dawn, pan the bacon, crack the eggs, brew the coffee, warm the Danish pastries and prepare to work all day in a hot kitchen until the last guest is served.”

So, God made a chef.

“I need somebody with a strong back, callused feet, hands that look like swollen and wrinkled tree stumps and arms that are covered in burns, but who can show enough finesse to delicately place a few snipped herbs on a perfect plate of food. Somebody who can swear like an angry sailor, yet care for his or her staff as if they were off springs. A person who could stare down a line cook with piercing eyes and in the next breath – smile as a passing guest says: thanks for a great meal.”

So, God made a chef.

God said: “I need somebody who will handle baby carrots received from the local farmer as if they were family heirlooms, fillet a fresh fish with a knife so sharp that it cuts through the skin and flesh like they were butter, trim the silver skin from a tenderloin without leaving the slightest trace of meat, pound out veal tenders with the power of a blacksmith and turn foie gras in a hot pan so gingerly that even the liver doesn’t know it is being cooked.”

So, God made a chef.

God needed someone who would work 24 hours in the first two days of a week that would certainly exceed 80 and do so with vigor and passion that is hard to describe. A person who knew at any given time what it cost to produce yesterday’s cup of coffee, could negotiate with salespeople who could barely tell the difference between a turnip and a potato and was obsessed with cleanliness and sanitation.

So, God made a chef.

God said: “I need somebody who is confident enough to handle hundreds of reservations, smart enough to know how much to prepare of each item, cautious enough to keep guests with allergies in mind, talented enough to build menu items that were able to create a buzz for the restaurant and strong enough in belief to always focus on the quality of the ingredients used.”

So, God made a chef.

God needed a person who was true to him or herself; focused – no matter how busy the restaurant became to not EVER sacrifice quality while making sure that each item contributed to the financial success of the business. He needed a person who was able to find a way to keep a family while giving 150% to the business and doing so without the need for accolades except – clean plates returning from the dinning room.

So, God made a chef.

God said: “I need someone who isn’t always right, but is never wrong; someone who never eats, only tastes; someone who respects heat and sharp objects and abhors anyone who doesn’t respect them as well. I need someone who would rather cook than anything else; someone who is comfortable wearing white jackets, hounds tooth pants and tall pleated hats and who considers his or her feet the most important part of their body.”

So, God made a chef.

“Somebody who is compassionate, but firm; caring and always giving; a mentor, psychiatrist, medic, big brother or sister, fair and honest, hard working and filled with passion for food and service. Someone who would laugh and cry when his or her son or daughter says they want to spend their life doing what dad or mom does.”

So, God made a chef.

________________________________________________________________________

A tip of the toque to all who work in kitchens, those who came before and set the standards for us to follow, those who aspire to become the next generation of cooks and most importantly – those family members who put up with us along the way.

**WATCH FOR THIS PIECE COMING OUT ON YouTube THIS SUMMER!

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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FOOD IS THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE

01 Thursday May 2014

In case you missed this one.

Harvest America Ventures

FOOD IS THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE

Once you brush away all of the superficial things that we accumulate in life and begin to prioritize those that are important it is remarkable to see that everyone shares the same list. It all boils down to family, faith, health, companionship, meaningful work, how we treat others and how they treat us and those things that allow us to continue to survive: food, water, basic shelter and clothing. Unfortunately, people tend to get caught up in those things that feed our desires outside of the foundations of a good life. This article will focus on one common denominator that addresses nearly every one of those foundations and can even stretch to encompass a few desires outside of the basics in life. That common denominator is food.

There is little doubt that we all face demons every day. People can easily get caught up in our differences whether they be…

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FOOD IS THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE

29 Tuesday Apr 2014

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FOOD IS THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE

Once you brush away all of the superficial things that we accumulate in life and begin to prioritize those that are important it is remarkable to see that everyone shares the same list. It all boils down to family, faith, health, companionship, meaningful work, how we treat others and how they treat us and those things that allow us to continue to survive: food, water, basic shelter and clothing. Unfortunately, people tend to get caught up in those things that feed our desires outside of the foundations of a good life. This article will focus on one common denominator that addresses nearly every one of those foundations and can even stretch to encompass a few desires outside of the basics in life. That common denominator is food.

There is little doubt that we all face demons every day. People can easily get caught up in our differences whether they be political, territorial, religious beliefs, relationship disagreements, or even work related friction and as we see by watching the news, these differences can become the center of our attention. If there is anything that we can agree on – it is a good plate of food. So, how important is food beyond the basic need for sustenance? Let’s take a look at the role that food can and does play in life.

A baby is born and the first thing that he or she does is cry. What does the baby cry for? Is it attention, affection, discomfort or fright? Those who have watched the miracle of birth will quickly note that it is hunger that draws the first sound from a new born. There is an association that a baby quickly develops: “I cry and I get fed.” Food becomes a comforting crutch in life that we carry with us forever. We may not cry for food as we get older, but we realize that food is a friend when it is sometimes hard to find one. When we are happy –we eat. When we are sad – we eat. When we are lonely – we eat. When we are stressed – we eat. Food is comforting, it is fulfilling, it is a reward when we need it and a memory of people and things that we have encountered through our lives. Food is important.

We now know, although not everyone practices it, that “we are what we eat.” Selecting the right foods and preparing them well is the most significant contributor to a healthy body. Many of the health issues that plague mankind are preventable if we would only follow some simple rules of selection and preparation. Diabetes, heart disease, cancer and obesity are, to a large extent, preventable if we understand how important food is.

The once cherished “family table” was a time to sit down as a symbol of reverence for tradition and a time to share in each other’s day. The family table was a time to celebrate the small things and to comfort each other when our day takes a negative turn. The meal was a time to pass down the values of the family and to teach each other how to live, respect and cherish each other. The common denominator was a plate of food that was prepared with love, care and a sense of obligation to those things that keep a family strong. We have strayed from this over the years with the advent of a microwave oven society and the ease with which fast food and convenience items take over the traditions of old.

We do (thanks from everyone in the restaurant business) lean on restaurants now for much of that attention to tradition. Restaurants are a place where we can celebrate birthdays, graduations, weddings, anniversaries, promotions, first dates, breakups, business deals and even the lives of those who pass away. In all cases, it is good food that serves as that common denominator. We break bread to remember and even to forget. Food is a powerful catalyst that ties two ends together no matter how far apart they seem initially.

When it comes to appreciating great food there is no language barrier. The experience surrounding dining can and does go way beyond that typical biological family. State dinners sponsored by governments are used to create a common ground for discussion, compromise, support and understanding. No matter how deep the differences are between two people or even entire countries, we can always appreciate a great meal. This simple foundational need and pleasure can become the basis by which differences are put aside, maybe long enough for there to surface a spark of understanding and agreement. Food is important.

There are so many examples of the power of food as a communication tool – examples that each of us knows and holds close to our hearts. Here are a few:

One of the most difficult jobs on earth is farming. I have had the wonderful opportunity to visit farmers in the wine regions of France, California, Oregon and Washington State. During harvest, workers are pressed with the need to pick the grapes when they reach the correct sugar content and do so during a very short window of time. It is backbreaking work requiring those involved to bend at the waist, snipping bunches of grapes from the vine from row to row for many hours at a time. With the sun beating on their backs, hands that are rough and cut from the vine knife used and grapes weighing down on their frame it becomes work that would surely be considered intolerable by many. At the end of the day in most vineyards, something magical happens. The crew will sit down together to a meal prepared by the vineyard, break bread, clink glasses filled with the vineyards wine, laugh and truly enjoy telling stories about how many aches and pains they have. The next morning the process starts all over again. Food is a powerful and magical substance.

Restaurant work is, simply put, hard. Ten or twelve hours on your feet, the pressure of the clock, lifting, chopping and dicing, heat that is intense enough to cook a person, burns, cuts and aching muscles – this is the life of a cook. Service staff must attend to every detail in the dining room: polishing glasses and flatware, making sure that their station is impeccably clean, memorizing the art of the kitchen and the complement of wine and focusing on a state of mind that exudes service excellence and in some cases tolerance of unruly guests. At 4:30 in most restaurants all of this stops for 20 minutes or so while both sides of the swinging door get together for staff meal. When done correctly, this stress reliever goes way beyond nourishment. It is a time to talk, to share, to set aside tension, take a breath, laugh and set your mind at ease for the onslaught of business just around the corner. For the moment, everyone is equal around the plate. Food is incredibly important.

Each professional cook that I know has experienced that epiphany in life – that moment when a certain food, or food event has allowed them to pause and say: “wow, this is something that I want to dedicate my career and a good portion of my life to.” It is that first oyster with warm salty ocean brine that says “it doesn’t get any fresher than this;” it may be that hand picked heirloom tomato that is still warm from the July sun and eaten as one would an apple or sliced and simply drizzled with good olive oil and a pinch of sea salt that turns an average person into an explorer of food experiences; or it might be the first time that they enjoy a meal prepared by a serious chef who knows how to delicately handle those foods and take them to a new level of significance. In all cases, the power of food can move a person from a desire to find a career to defining a “calling in life.” Food is important.

Food allows us to maintain traditions and celebrate them with others, it allows us to pass down a gift of a treasured family recipe that becomes part of the family’s heritage, it is the one thing that we can freely give to others with a smile and a sense of understanding and appreciation.

I remember many years ago visiting with a woman restaurateur in Saranac Lake, New York who owned a business called the Blue Gentian. It was a neighborhood restaurant of great renown. People would line up around the block to wait for a table and enjoy her “blue plate specials,” as they were called. Nothing elaborate: roast chicken, meat loaf, and even a few casserole dishes. I asked her one-day what her secret ingredient was. She pointed to an empty jar in her kitchen and said that that was it. When I looked puzzled she said that the ingredient was love of people, love of life, and appreciation of others. This was what tasted so good at her tables. Food is important.

Over the past few Sunday’s I have watched the new Anthony Bourdain series on CNN called: Parts Unknown. No matter what you think about Tony, the series is brilliant because it shows the human bonds that are formed around food. It is a personal show that opens your eyes to other cultures and traditions and the honest purity of the human spirit once you focus on the foundations of life. He demonstrates both directly and indirectly that food is important.

Chefs, and cooks (both domestic and professional) have extremely important jobs. If we could just peel away the superficial stuff that gets in the way of life and just learn to “break bread” and appreciate our differences, we might be able to enjoy the human condition a bit more.

Photo by: Kristin Parker – Kristin Parker Photography

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow this blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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COOKS IN THE WEEDS – GASPING FOR AIR

26 Saturday Apr 2014

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COOKS IN THE WEEDS – GASPING FOR AIR

There are times in a restaurant kitchen when things go terribly wrong. Every cook, every chef faces those moments that can only be described as desperate and out of control. There is so much truth to the theory of Murphy’s Law: “If anything can go wrong, it will”. There are many corollaries to this theory that point to variable approaches:
“If anything can go wrong, it can.” – Dr. Allen Roberds
This provides an opportunity to escape the worst- case scenario.

“If anything can go wrong, it should”.
This points to an understanding that you deserve what you get.

“If anything can go wrong, it will be all your fault and everyone will know it”. – Dean Izett
Noting that when things go wrong it is the “cover your ass” approach that allows others to feel less of the pain, passing on the full brunt of the results to one person (other than themselves).

The most important lesson from Murphy’s Law lies in understanding how important it is to plan, work through a variety of “worse case” scenarios, and focus always on being prepared. In kitchens one of the Cardinal Rules is to always make sure your mise en place is tight. Chefs always live by the theory that if your “mise” is in good shape, you can handle anything.

There is a certain level of comfort that comes from having your mise en place in order. I would consider it parallel to being lost on a desert road, but feeling OK because you have a full tank of gas. Great mise, like a full tank of gas gives you some elbowroom.

What the typical restaurant guest will never understand is the pressure that cooks face on the line every day and how dramatic it can be when they wind up “in the weeds”. So, what does this term mean? How can anyone adequately describe the feelings that are present when this happens? What can drive a line cook to this point despair and how can they, do they get through it?

The Urban Dictionary defines “in the weeds” as:

“When someone or something, usually in the food or beverage industry, becomes overwhelmed and falls behind.” Such as: “Hey chef, can you plate up those two fish for me?? I’m in the weeds….”

Honestly, this definition does not do justice to the situation or the feeling. When a cook is truly in the weeds he or she starts to lose track of what is going on. The dozen or so dishes that have been fired are now just a blur and the cook can no longer keep track of where each dish is in the cooking process. He or she starts to get that glazed over look, fails to respond to directives from the expeditor, becomes pale and may even start to tremble a bit. The cook can even break out in a cold sweat even though it is well over 100 degrees behind the line and will likely just stop in his or her tracks with a sense of hopelessness. A solid line team will begin to notice the signs a little bit earlier on and nod to the chef/expeditor that things are about to go south. Sometimes the line cook who is rubbing elbows with this individual at the next station might be able to bring things back by stepping in to help – that is “if” his or her station is under control. It will likely be the chef/expeditor who holds the key to recovery. Sometimes the line cook can be talked through the situation or in some cases the chef might need to pull him or her off the line for a time to get a grip. The chef would need to step into that role which may or may not bring the line out of “train wreck mode”. More often than not, the whole line will simply need to slow down, dinners will be slower coming from the kitchen, servers will need to temper the impatience of the guest by offering a free intermezzo or cocktail “on the chef” and the host will be instructed to hold back on seating anymore guests until the kitchen has a chance to recover.

For a time, the kitchen will become quiet as everyone tries to make sense of what has happened, find the cause, catch its breath and get the rhythm back. This may only take a few minutes, but while the kitchen is in this state it seems like time drags on forever.

What can cause this? There are a multitude of issues that can bring a great kitchen to a halt – most of them are avoidable. To begin with, it may be as simple as the line cook who did not have his or her mise en place together. Running out of ingredients and needing to stop and start chopping and dicing is a clear sign of disaster. It could be that the cook grabbed a hot pan, generating a throbbing burn and pulling that cooks concentration astray. It might be a disproportionate number of pick-ups on that night from one station placing undo pressure on a portion of the team, or it might be, and oftentimes is, a flaw in table management out front – seating too many people in a short period of time. Great table management is what some guests view as “why can’t I be seated now? I see you have empty tables in your dining room?” Communication between the front and back of the house can resolve most issues before they become problems.

Now you are in the thick of it. A line cook has mentally “dropped out”, the chef has stepped in behind the line to a back up of dishes and a lack of knowledge regarding where they are, the board is filled with dupes ready to be fired, and the rest of the team is waiting for direction. There are times when some cooks may wonder how the chef got to his or her position. They may question his or her ability to understand or do what each line cook does on a daily basis. The service staff is facing a crisis situation in the dining room with an increasing number of disgruntled guests waiting for their meal. This is the time when a true chef can earn respect and demonstrate why he or she is in that role. This is that moment when the chef is the chef. There is that moment when everyone holds their breath waiting for a defined course of action that will bring everyone out of deep water, gasping for breath, but knowing that things are going to be OK.

The chef takes a breath and says to the dining room manager: “For the next few moments we cannot seat anymore guests. I will be the only person who will communicate with service staff from this point on. Give us 20 minutes to right the ship and get back on track.” The chef then turns to his line staff to determine where they are with each ticket and simply states that they will take one ticket at a time until the board has been taken care of and then proceed to allow more diners to enter the fold.

Guests wait a bit longer, a few free drinks are passed their way, the dining room manager pays extra attention to those guests waiting (without placing blame anywhere), the bar is cranking as parties wait to be seated and slowly, but surely the line gets back its feeling of confidence as the board is nearly clear before a new set of clicks from the point of sale bring the kitchen back to where it was.

What is most important is that the line cook who was relieved (temporarily) is focused on re-building mise en place, brought back to the line after he clears his head, is welcomed by the other line cooks and supported by the chef. It can happen to anyone and probably will to each of the cooks working that night at some point. It likely will not happen to the line cook in question again for some time. His or her mise en place and focus will be razor sharp from this point on.

Once the night is over, a review of what happened will be important, but the incident must be behind them. Tomorrow will be another day, the crew pulled together and survived. This is what teams do.

To the guest, there was disappointment and a lack of understanding regarding what happened or why, but the front-of-the-house did what they do best: attend to the guest and make it right.

In the weeds, yes, but recovery can happen. This is a day in the life of a restaurant.

**photo by: Kristin Parker – Kristin Parker Photography

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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TYLER SCOTT: A YOUNG CHEF MARKS A PATH TO EXCELLENCE

25 Friday Apr 2014

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TYLER SCOTT: A YOUNG CHEF MARKS A PATH TO EXCELLENCE

New York City has been called the center of the universe. For chefs and restaurateurs it is the mecca for the best talent to be found and a place for aspiring professionals to earn their chops, refine their talent and build their personal brand. New York is also very tough on cooks. The best restaurants are in such demand by young cooks that many agree to work as a stage’, dedicating countless hours for little or no money in exchange for knowledge and a resume builder. Thousands of cooks look to cut their teeth in New York while others might enter the New York landscape having built their skill set elsewhere and now seek approval from a very discriminating dining public. There are nearly 25,000 options in the boroughs of New York for guests to find a restaurant meal – an incredible amount of competition. In this type of environment the strong survive and the weak shall perish.

I find that it is always fascinating to follow young cooks who have the passion, the commitment and the patience to set a path from learning how to cut an onion to plating some of the most sophisticated food to be found on any table. The shear dedication and determination necessary to ride the train from point A to point Z can be hard to imagine with many bumps along the way. Those who make it – deserve it.

I have had the pleasure to watch many young culinarians reach their goals and feel for even more who falter along the way leading them to seek a different career path. One who has followed his dreams and continues to impress all who know him and enjoy his food is Chef Tyler Scott. He agreed to this interview as an opportunity to demonstrate a path for others. He is an inspiration to me.

1. What or who influenced you to pursue a career in food and beverage?
“I would have to say my mother and aunt. Growing up, even though she was working full time, my mother still made time to produce bread, and pastry items from scratch as well as can jams from all the summer berries. We didn’t have many traditions or family rituals but I always looked forward to cinnamon rolls at Christmas and strawberry short cake well into long Western New York winters.
My aunt, on the other hand, taught me the importance of being specialized and that if you are liberal with the use of anything let it be butter. She only cooked three things: French toast, Snicker Doodles, and city chicken, but all of them were uniquely hers in some fashion and delicious”.
2. Who mentored you in your pursuit of this career?
“I worked for a number of talented chefs over the years but two really guided me: Brian Skelding and Michael Powell. Chef Skelding instilled the foundations of cooking in me. Then later in my career Chef Powell schooled me on management and leadership”.
3. How would others describe your style of management?
“I believe that others would describe me as being fair and understanding with a strong emphasis on educating the people we employ”.
4. Do you have a business philosophy that drives your operational decisions? If so, can you describe this philosophy?
“Teamwork – I strongly believe that working as part of a cohesive unit is a crucial part to being successful”.
NOTE:
Chefs quickly realize that there is less room for individualism in kitchens than one might think. There are way too many tasks to accomplish, far too many variables that can distract and enormous pressure to be ready for anything and everything to even attempt to work without the complete cohesive nature of a team. This goes beyond “teamwork” and parallels the relationship that a successful sports team would encounter. All for one and one for all is the motto that kitchens live by.
5. Can you name a particular food experience in your life that was your epiphany? An experience that stands out as the moment when you said, yes, this is what I need to do.
“My first job after graduating from Paul Smith’s College was at The Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia. I worked more and with more intensity during my time there than I ever had before in my life, but the first time I really held down a station on the main line and felt that rush of adrenaline I was hooked”.
6. What is your pet peeve about working in the food and beverage industry?
“The never-ending debate over meat temperature correctness drives me nuts. It is comical as well as irritating, especially in an age where chefs are so popular and information so accessible. This may appear to be a small thing, but it seems impossible to find two people (cooks or guests) who can agree on what medium rare looks like”.
7. Who are your most valuable players in the operation where you currently work?
“Hands down Oscar. We have a small staff at Ze Café and it is easy to see when someone is not pulling their share. Oscar is young with no formal training prior to this job, but you can see that he understands the foundations of what makes you successful as a cook on a daily basis”.
8. If you had an opportunity to provide some guiding light to young cooks, bakers or hospitality students looking to make their mark in this business, what would you tell them?
“Hard work pays off – period. Also, when the time comes and someone gives you a shot – have a clear idea of what it is that you want to do and how you are going to do it”.
9. When you hire people to work in your business what traits are you looking for?
“I look for a positive outlook on life, adaptability, and a willingness to learn. A positive outlook is huge for me in the work place, I try to smile and keep a bright mind set. This attitude helps with productivity and creates a more pleasant work environment. So I try to employ people with a similar attitude”.
10. If you were not working in food and beverage, what would you choose to do for a career?
“I would choose something that would keep me in close contact with the outdoors. I am an avid fly fisherman so maybe a guide”.
11. What would you like people to know about your current business and the products that you produce or sell?

“Ze cafe is a small restaurant with a French influenced menu. We focus on freshness and quality of product. During most of the year we are privileged to receive fruits, vegetables, and eggs from our owners farm just south of Albany, New York”.

NOTE:

I had the pleasure of watching Tyler grow from his early days as a culinary student and captain of our student culinary team. Tyler’s experiences since then brought him from the Greenbrier, America’s premier American Plan Hotel to his current role as Sous Chef for Ze Café. Along the way, he followed his culinary dreams from coast to coast as defined in this bio from Ze Café website:
“Born in Buffalo New York, Chef Scott spent his pre-college years working in restaurants. Upon graduating high school he attended Culinary Arts and Service Management at Paul Smith’s College.
While at Paul Smith’s Tyler was the Co-captain on the school Cold Food Team, which received two gold and silver medals at the New York City Food Show.
Shortly after graduating he was selected for the apprenticeship program at the Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia where he was immersed in the world of Classical French Cuisine.
Returning home after three years, he worked as a Sous-Chef to Chef Scott Bova at The Athenaeum Hotel in Chautauqua, NY for the summer season of 2008. The following fall, Tyler moved to Portland, Oregon where he was able to pursue his interests in farm to table dining, butchering and Charcuterie working as a Sous -Chef under Ryan Bleibtrey at Urban Farmer Restaurant.
Tyler returned to Western New York to work for Chef Jonathan Haloua at La Fleur a Four Diamond Award Restaurant in Mayville, NY. After working at La Fleur, Tyler was offered the Chef de Cuisine position at the Oklahoma City Golf & Country Club where he worked for 4 years. He returned to work with Chef Jonathan in the summer of 2013 at La Fleur and joined the Zé Café team Fall of 2013.”
______________________________________________________________________________________
Ze Café receives exceptional reviews as a top tier French inspired restaurant in New York. The next time you are in “the city” stop in for dinner and ask for Chef Tyler. Satisfaction guaranteed! Visit their website at:

http://www.zecafe.com/

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Follow our blog at: http://www.culinarycuesblog.wordpress.com

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IN THE KITCHEN – HIRE PASSION, TEACH DISCIPLINE

20 Sunday Apr 2014

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IN THE KITCHEN – HIRE PASSION, TEACH DISCIPLINE

Chefs seem to always lament about the difficult task of finding the right staff to fulfill the mission of their kitchen. “Where can I find good cooks who will show up to work prepared, who have a strong foundational knowledge about process, and who will give me a good days work for a good days pay”?

Turnover rates in restaurant operations seem to be significantly higher than in other professions with the average shelf-life of a cook oftentimes less than a year and dishwashers – well, sometimes we measure their likely time with us in months or even weeks. A good chef friend of mine once told me to just keep hiring cooks and dishwashers because if you don’t need them today you will tomorrow. Where are we going wrong? Is it the business and should we just continue to accept this as “the way it is”? What is missing in the formula for building a great team? Is it the hours that kitchen employees work? Is it the pay and or benefits (or lack there of)? Is it the conditions that people work in (heat, on their feet, burns and cuts, heavy lifting, pressure of impossible time constraints)? Is it all of the above?

There are certainly ample books and articles written about these aforementioned conditions yet young people continue to flock to culinary schools for a jump-start on a career in food. Tens of thousands of those students graduate each and every year, yet chefs still complain that they cannot find “good cooks who will show up prepared to work, who possess a strong foundational knowledge about process and who will give the chef a good days work for a good days pay”. Something just isn’t right, there must be an answer.

Having worn a number of hats that are part of this story (employee, chef/employer, culinary instructor, school administrator) I have searched for the answer for many, many years. Here is my conclusion broken down into three parts:

1. There is no question that we need to look at the conditions, pay and benefits afforded kitchen employees if we want to hang on to them. Health care, respectable pay based on the skill set for a particular job and the ability to advance are all pretty basic needs that people have. Without them, any employee will begin to look elsewhere.
2. Hire passion and expect to train those who have it. Passion is not something that is as common as one might think. Chefs can certainly build passion, but there needs to be a spark to begin with. Passionate people are always looking for something to take to heart and dedicate their energies to.

Aldous Huxley once wrote: “I want to know what passion is. I want to feel something strongly.”

If a chef wants to build that team focused on the larger objectives defined for the restaurant, he or she must seek out people with that spark – that need to know passion. One might assume that if a young person chose to attend culinary school and invest the time and money to attain a degree then the passion must be there. Unfortunately, I have found that this is quite often – not the case. When a person has that spark of passion they realize that they must be willing to give in to it, to sacrifice much in its pursuit, to make choices that could very well be difficult. Far too many young people are not ready to make that commitment, to sacrifice things in pursuit of a dream. Those who have the spark can be easy to filter out from the pack, but it must be something that the chef looks for, insists on, and makes a top priority. In building a dynamic team there is no substitute for the spark of passion.

“There is scarcely any passion without struggle”.
Albert Camus, The Myth of Sisyphus and Other Essays

If the passion is there, then the chef has an opportunity to set the young cook on a course for success – a course that will, in time, benefit the restaurant and even more importantly – benefit that young cook as he or she proceeds to build a career. The chef must take this spark of passion, encourage it, keep it in check, teach and train and help the cook to build a solid path. Even that dishwasher who might typically only stay a few months at a property can be developed into a great employee, maybe a prep cook, line cook and eventually, with the right coaching, a chef in his or her own right.

“Persistence, Perfection, Patience, Power, Prioritize your passion. It keeps you sane.”
Criss Jami, author of Venus in Arms

3. Discipline is the hallmark of success in a professional kitchen. Uncontrolled passion can lead to chaos and although kitchens may often appear to be chaotic, they are typically controlled chaos. These young cooks and team members must understand that a kitchen runs most efficiently when it is modeled after the military structure that served as its beginnings under chefs like Escoffier, Careme and Point. There is a reason for this that most who had experienced an efficient operation would understand and agree with. Kitchens operate under sometimes impossible deadlines with each individual player responsible for a plethora of minute preparations before the onslaught of orders clicking their way into the kitchen from the dining room. This pre-opening pressure is accompanied by a cacophony of sounds including banging of pots, pressure steamers, interplay between cooks, pounding of meats in preparation for station work and the rumble of speed racks and Queen Anne carts thundering down the narrow paths between stoves, coolers and dining rooms. To keep the pace, ensure everyone remains on task, and maintain a level of safety it becomes imperative for there to be a respect for chain of command and attention to the many details facing each cook. This again is where “yes, chef” becomes the most important response, one that all cooks, especially those just starting out, must adhere to. With all of their preparation in class, many young cooks out of school do not understand or appreciate this. The result of too much deviation from this plan will bring down the ship, something that a chef cannot allow to happen. When there is discipline, there is focus. When there is focus, there is calm. When there is calm, there is efficiency and success. This is the job of the chef and this is what keeps a team together and allows that passion to take form.

“Discipline is the bridge between goals and accomplishments.”

Jim Rohn – entrepreneur, author and motivational speaker

“Confidence comes from discipline and training”.

Robert Kiyosaki

A chef who understands and implements a plan for addressing those foundational needs of his or her team, hires individuals with a passion to learn and a love of food and who establishes a system of professional discipline in the kitchen will build that team that is so desperately needed.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

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AH…..BREAD AND BREAD BAKERS

18 Friday Apr 2014

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AH…..BREAD AND BREAD BAKERS

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight.” – M.F.K. Fischer

If line cooks are the heart of a kitchen then bread bakers must certainly be the soul. Great bread, not simply good bread, is absolutely essential in a respectable restaurant today. This was not always the case in America; in fact the concept of beautiful, crusty, artisanal bread is relatively new in this country. To my way of thinking restaurants became truly noteworthy once bread became important. Today, great bread is a critical piece in a chef’s bag of essential ingredients for success and the difference between a satisfactory guest experience and one that they talk about for weeks after. A chef cannot really build a first class restaurant without superior bread.

Let’s look back just a few years to see how much American palates have grown. Post World War II – America, in the eyes of a “Leave it to Beaver” utopian world was infatuated with the new marvels of food science. Pillow white and soft bread that was now delivered to your door – pre-sliced and ready to use. I can remember the days when bread, milk and other pastries were delivered to your door just like the daily paper. That bread in its protective plastic bag, soft as a pillow and more body than crust was the product that we all grew up on. It was what we became accustomed to and what we interpreted as good bread. I even remember insisting that my mother cut off the thin semblance of a crust before I would attempt to eat this “marshmallow” product.

Looking forward, this is what Julia Child had to say about this American staple:

“How can a nation be great if their bread tastes like Kleenex?” – Julia Childs

It would be Julia and her friend James Beard who would begin to change the U.S. palate for “real bread”, although it would take many years.
“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” – James Beard
WONDER BREAD (builds strong bodies in 12 different ways) was the bread of choice for decades. It represented, at the time, what America was all about and relegated the palate of U.S. citizens to an acceptance of mediocrity both in flavor and nutrition.
“Several advances in the nutrition and baking process were made during this decade. In 1941, Wonder Bread was involved in a government-supported move to enrich white bread with vitamins and minerals to improve nutrition. Known as the “quiet miracle,” bread enrichment nearly eliminated the diseases Beriberi and Pellagra and brought essential nutrients to people who previously could not afford nutritious foods. At the same time Wonder introduced a revolutionary new way of baking that eliminated holes in bread.”

http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/wonderbread.htm

Restaurants, particularly larger hotel operations had originally built bake shops and hired experienced bakers (typically European) to take care of their breads, pastries and elaborate desserts, but as the America palate changed and the cost of operating these portions of the restaurant kitchen became cost prohibitive, most operators eliminated or cut back on the size and scope of the baking operation. They began to purchase product from outside commercial bakeries to supplement their needs and in a short period of time the bakeshop became an afterthought.

As more and more restaurants entered the competitive market in the 60’s and 70’s, it became necessary for those restaurants and hotels to seek out a competitive edge. Due to the rebel approach by a few traditional bakers in the U.S., restaurants started re-introducing bakeshops and a better on-site product. Two in particular were Michael London from Saratoga Springs, New York and Nancy Silverton from Southern California.

MICHAEL LONDON:
“So after 10 years, he moved his bread-making operation to his 1805 farmhouse, renamed the Rock Hill Bakehouse. The “Bakehouse” was nothing more than an average-size kitchen, but it was promptly colonized by four tons of bread a week, laid to cool on a tarp on the lawn—loaves named the Annie and the Charlie, loaves that predated the great artisanal bread explosion of the late ’80s by several years.
London began to articulate his philosophy of baking: about using organic grains (or, better still, grains grown by the environmentally and spirituallyconscious farming method known as Bio dynamics); about doing everything, except the mixing, by hand; about making breads that express the genius loci, because bread should contain the spirit of the place where it’s made.
Rock Hill was soon squeezing out 20,000 loaves a week to satisfy Manhattan restaurants like Le Bernadin and Lespinasse. But London wasn’t interested in merely overseeing a production line. And so we come to The Oven. “I had always been determined to build an oven consistent with my vision of a bakery,” London explains. “It’s very important that bread be baked in a chamber where there’s been fire, so it wears a little ash.”
http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/londons-calling

NANCY SILVERTON and her husband Mark Peel were interested in baking quality breads to support their new restaurant and formed a separate company called La Brea Bread Company to produce for their operation and to wholesale some product to others. It grew into a larger production facility out of demand and eventually was sold to a larger distributor making their pre-baked product available to every restaurant across the country.

http://www.labreabakery.com

To each of these rebel bakers was the inspiration of the world master of bread: Lionel Poilane whose family business and philosophy continue to draw disciples throughout the world. Although his bakeries are in Paris, Paris outskirts and London, you can find his product in New York City, Boston, San Francisco and available overnight on-line. Poilane is considered by many to be the best bread in the world. Poilane, unfortunately passed away in recent years but his daughter carries on the traditions he established.
Pain Poilâne
One of the most prestigious boulangerie in Paris has been run by the Poilâne family for almost 80 years.The boulangerie was started in 1932 by Pierre Poilâne, creating the world famous Poilâne Miche by mixing: stiff levain, gray stone-ground whole wheat flour, spelt flour, gray sea salt from Guérande, water…. and then baking in a traditional wood fired oven. Pierre Poilâne’s core philosophy for products he sold was they should be made with the simple ingredients and be hand crafted. Pain Poilâne, a traditional whole-wheat peasant loaf, has a distinctive rich taste.It’s crumb is slightly sour and chewy and the crust is dark and earthy colored.It has become one of the most famous sourdough breads in France and throughout the world.

http://weekendloafer.com/2011/08/31/poilane-miche/

This brings me back to the original point: America now has a taste for great bread and the philosophies of Poilane, London, and Silverton ring clear as a new generation of bread bakers continue to perfect the artisan craft in communities from Vermont to Oregon. Every town needs a great bread bakery just like you find in France and every restaurant worth a grain of salt must begin with exceptional bread on their table.

The bread baker is a unique individual with a passion for the craft, a commitment to process, and an un-wavering focus on flavor and texture. Their life is different from anyone else and worthy of reverent respect. When a chef finds a great baker he or she will do everything in their power to protect that relationship. When a consumer finds a baker with the passion to produce bread like Pollane, London and Silverton they must bring them into the fold of their family of friends.

Bread Bakers seem to enjoy starting work in the very early morning hours, often find solace in working alone, love the feel of flour in their face, relish the heat of intense ovens and talk to their bread waiting for a response of doneness when tapping on the bread’s underbelly. Their job is physical, mentally challenging and even emotional at times. The process is a blend of science, art, passion, tradition and carries with it an almost spiritual nature.

Here are a few noteworthy bakeries (I am sure you could add dozens of your own):

Gerard Rubaud – Vermont (good luck finding a loaf of his bread – they sellout instantly)

Meet the Baker: Gérard Rubaud

Red Hen Bakery – Vermont (near perfection)

Home

Crown Point Bakery- Adirondacks of New York

https://www.facebook.com/crownpointbread

The Vergennes Laundry – Vergennes, Vermont

http://vergenneslaundry.squarespace.com/

On the nature of a baker –dedicated to his or her craft one should always note that as dedicated as chefs may be to the art and craft of cooking – they know their limits. Most chefs will readily admit that they are not bakers and thus have tremendous respect for those who are. Bakers make the kitchen alive with smells, artistic passion and shear dedication to product.

“In listening to Scherber talk poetically about the process of making bread, you can begin to understand the draw, the charm, and the reasons why bakers love what they do. Scherber reveals the wonder of working with something that is alive. “It is moving along at its own pace and you have to interpret the dough, absorb all the information it is giving you, and use your skills and knowledge to transform it into an exquisite loaf of bread. There is a truly rhythmic and organic nature to bread baking—a sense of flow and energy.”

Amy’s Breads – New York City
http://www.pastryscoop.com/2003/01/18/amy-scherber-amys-bread-renato-kopanski-balthazar-bakery-bread-baking/

BLESS THE BREAD BAKERS – THEY ARE THE SALT OF THE EARTH.

PLAN BETTER- TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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FOOD ART – LOOK TO NATURE

15 Tuesday Apr 2014

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FOOD ART - LOOK TO NATURE

There is no question that people eat with their eyes. Chefs are, for the most part, tuned into this reality and oftentimes invest countless hours developing and defining their signature presentations for various dishes. To some it may be creating height on the plate such as Alfred Portale – the master of architectural plate design; others might focus on a deconstructed approach that involves some scientific wizardry and a bit of Avant Garde artistry like Grant Achatz while others let the food speak for itself, as is the case with Alice Waters and her disciples. In all cases, it is the “art” associated with cooking that has given these talented chefs their professional identity.

I spent many years, as a chef, focused on how to create beauty and interest on the plate. I honed these techniques through competition and presented the results on restaurant menus and at special events. Sometimes, I will admit, I spent too much time trying to manipulate and force food to fit my interpretation of “beautiful”. What took me years to re-discover was that food, when selected and cared for correctly is beautiful just as it is and the role of the chef is simply to allow this to happen. Treat food with respect and don’t over-think it. Art is, after all, in the eyes of the beholder. To this end, chefs need to simply do what they do well – select seasonal ingredients at the height of their quality, handle those same ingredients with respect and stay committed to foundational cooking techniques. Placed on a pure white plate, these ingredients can then be interpreted as art in many different ways by the person addressing the dish. Monet didn’t try to change the vibrant flowers at Giverney, he simply painted those colors that his failing eyes cherished and allowed others to enjoy it as Impressionism. We need to truly pay homage to the beauty of what nature has given us.

Where chefs run into challenges is when we do not respect what Mother Nature does. A vine-ripened tomato in July is one of the most beautiful foods imaginable. Warm and bursting with intense flavor, this tomato is like nothing else in a chef’s pantry. A tomato in February that comes from a hydroponic system of plant nutrition is nothing like that July work of art and thus needs to be manipulated to attempt to build a presentable and flavorful dish. A June strawberry is an experience, one that comes from New Mexico in February, is picked before maturity, white inside and lacking in the natural sugars that give a strawberry the characteristics of a June berry can never hold up to the scrutiny of a discerning public. The tomato in July simply needs to be sliced, placed gently on a plate, drizzled with a quality olive oil, a pinch of sea salt and a bit of cracked pepper. The tomato is a thing of beauty. The strawberry only needs a hand to hold it and a sprig of mint. Some slightly sweetened cream would be enough to put it over the top. This is art.

We sometimes over-think the whole concept of what a cook should do. We are, when in true harmony with our jobs, caretakers of Nature’s crops, livestock and fish that are art waiting for a canvas. The chef who can add that signature presentation while still respecting the beauty of a perfect ruby beet, fresh picked ear of corn, briny Divers Scallop, perfectly cooked rack of Spring Lamb or room temperature Goat’s Cheese with a chunk of fresh honeycomb is one who is in tune with Nature’s art.

The plate is the canvas and to be a chef artist is to appreciate the ingredients that are at your disposal. How fortunate we are to have such an incredible palette of colors, textures, shapes, sizes, aromas and natural flavors.

Be an appreciative caretaker of the farmer’s bounty, the rancher’s livestock and the fisherman’s catch. This is what it means to be a chef; let Nature be the artist.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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LIFE LESSONS FROM A LINE COOK

11 Friday Apr 2014

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LIFE LESSONS FROM A LINE COOK

I may be a showing a bit of bias, but I do believe that there are many lessons that anyone can learn from observing the daily activities and mindset of a typical restaurant line cook. These seasoned disciples of the range, maniac adrenaline junkies, talented players in the kitchen orchestra and salty dogs sailing pans across the flat top range are models to be followed through life. Here are some examples of the line cook curriculum for an organized life:

[] BE PREPARED:
In life, as in the kitchen – those who anticipate, run through potential scenarios, methodically build the skills and aptitudes necessary for success are the ones who do, in fact, succeed.

[] EVERYTHING HAS A PLACE AND EVERYTHING SHOULD BE IN ITS PLACE:
In a foodservice operation we refer to this as “mise en place”. It is a focus on all of the minute details that go into the make up of a plate of food and establishing the precise location for those details (ingredients) so that they can be imbedded in memory. This can also apply to playing a musical instrument, flying an airplane, driving a car or functioning effectively in an office cubicle.

[] DO NOT REARRANGE ANOTHER PERSONS FURNITURE:
Once a line cook has determined the precise set-up of his or her station and has designed a process by which he or she cooks and assembles plates – any disruption to the “plan” will result in chaos. If another cook steps into a line cooks domain he or she must respect the established mise en place. This is why many line cooks do not appreciate it when the chef steps in thinking that he or she is helping out. As in the previous statement about mise en place, this need for organizational respect applies to all other trades or professional work environments.

[] CLEAN AS YOU GO:
Maintaining a clean kitchen is only difficult when line cooks do not stay on top of cleaning constantly – even when they are busy. This trait, maybe above all others, is applicable in any person’s everyday life.

[] IF YOU CAN LEAN, YOU CAN CLEAN:
Line cooks realize that they are never paid to stand around. There is always something to clean in a kitchen. Once again, it is easy to see how this lesson can be applied elsewhere.

[] DO UNTO OTHERS AS YOU WOULD HAVE THEM DO UNTO YOU:
What goes around comes around. If you ignore the needs of others, fail to jump in when someone else is having a difficult time, choose to constantly focus on yourself, then you (line cooks in this case) will eventually face a time when your needs will be ignored by others. If you are disrespectful, insubordinate or condescending – then you should be prepared for payback. This is not exclusive to kitchen life.

[] LISTEN MORE, TALK LESS:
On the line it becomes essential to keep the communication focused and relevant. “Yes, chef” says it all. To divert attention to trivial chatter is to disrupt the concentration and problem solving abilities of those who are under the gun.. Line cooks cannot afford distractions.

[] STAY FOCUSED:
Once that first ticket arrives in the kitchen, all attention must be on the process that a line cook has prepared him or herself for. Nothing else is important during the time of service. Apply this, as you desire to anything and everything. Focus is critical in life.

[] BEND YOUR KNESS BEFORE YOU LIFT:
Macho and smart do not always coexist. Smart people lift with their knees, not their backs. An interesting statistic points to a reality that the majority of all workmen’s compensation claims are for back injuries.

[] ON TIME IS 15 MINUTES EARLY:
Everyone needs those 15 minutes to make sure that they are properly dressed, groomed and mentally focused to start work. Restaurants do not pay people for this adjustment time, nor should any other employer.

[] STAY HYDRATED:
You body does not warn you of hydration needs until it is often too late – especially in a kitchen where cooks may be working with ambient temperatures well over 100 degrees, staying hydrated is essential. Line cooks (most of them) also realize that the best source of hydration is water.

[] WE ARE ALL DISHWASHERS IN GOD’S EYES:
No one in a kitchen is above doing what dishwashers do day in and day out. You have a minute – jump in and help the dishwasher. Apply this to any position, in any business: help those who help you – we are all equal in life.

[] PLAN AHEAD:
No excuses. Better planning = fewer problems, happier employees and better results.

[] DON’T RUN OUT OF MISE EN PLACE:
The kiss of death on a kitchen line. Run out of mise en place and it is all down hill from there.

[] MAKE SURE THE PAN IS HOT:
In life, always follow the steps that you know are important to success. Do not compromise or take short cuts when you know that the results will not be acceptable. On the line a hot pan will allow that fish to slide smoothly during sauté or the meat to properly caramelize and add wonderful color and flavor to the dish.

[] A DULL KNIFE IS MORE DANGEROUS THAN A SHARP ONE:
Respect your tools! A sharp knife will slice cleanly and effortlessly through a product. If it is dull you will need to apply more pressure, the product may slip from a solid position on the cutting board and find one of your fingers as a target. Additionally, that dull knife will bruise the food unnecessarily.

[] WATER AND OIL DON’T MIX:
Many of the kitchen injuries on the line are burns. Hot oil will push water away and spit in all directions. Whether it is in a sauté pan or friolater – cooks need to pay attention to and respect this rule. In cold cooking we also realize that many liquids and oil will not stay in suspension without the addition of an emulsifying agent to bind the liquid and the oil.

[] THE NOSE DOESN’T LIE:
Fish that smells fishy is not fresh, meat that smells off – usually is, vegetables that have the offensive odor of rot cannot be brought back to life. There are far more olfactory senses that taste buds – respect what your nose is telling you.

[] SNEAKERS ARE NOT SHOES – PROTECT YOUR FEET:
Your feet are the most important part of your body if you are a line cook. Sneakers may seem comfortable but they do not provide enough support or protection in a kitchen. Pick the right shoes for the job.

[] WET TOWEL/DRY TOWEL – DON’T MIX THEM UP:
Wet towels (in a sanitizing solution) are for cleaning, not for holding hot pans. Enough said.

[] TASTE-SEASON-TASTE:
My friend Chef Michel LeBorgne held this close to his heart as the mantra for all cooks. Know where the flavor is, adjust it and taste again before it winds up on a guests plate.

[] IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU FIND THE TIME TO DO IT OVER:
Before it leaves the kitchen it must be right. Plan and take the time to do it right the first time. There is no room for beta testing with your restaurant guests or for that matter with any product that consumers choose to purchase. The customer is no longer as forgiving as they may have been in the past – they are not interested in downloading “fixes” simply to allow the manufacturer the privilege of getting it out to market quicker.

The next time you are looking for worldly advice, check in with your favorite restaurant and watch how line cooks treat their jobs, their responsibilities and their peers.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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THE SOCIETAL IMPORTANCE OF COOKS AND COOKING

08 Tuesday Apr 2014

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THE SOCIETAL IMPORTANCE OF COOKS AND COOKING

I believe it was Julia Child who pointed out that every significant change in society has always been accompanied by a change in how we grow, select, distribute, prepare, serve and consume food. Whether food drove societal change or if societal evolution drove changes in the system surrounding food can be debated forever. The more that I thought about this theory, the more it seemed to hold true – so I thought that I would point out just a few of the significant historical changes in how we act as a people and the way that food impacted everyone at that time.

FIRE: Obviously, there are few things that had a greater overall impact on civilization than the discovery of fire. Richard Wrangham, a noted anthropologist from Harvard University theorized the following:

“Wrangham suggested that by cooking meat, it acted as a form of “pre-digestion”, allowing less food energy intake to be spent on digesting the tougher proteins such as collagen and the tougher carbohydrates. The digestive tract shrank, allowing more energy to be given to the growing brain of H. erectus. Suzana Herculano-Houzel calculated that if they ate only raw, unprocessed food, humans would need to eat for 9.3 hours per day in order to fuel their brains, which use about twice as much resting energy by percentage as other primates. Other scientists disagree with Wrangham’s assumption.”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_of_fire_by_early_humans

Although, the impact of cooking food on brain developed is still debated, it is interesting to note that the greatest growth in human intellect and ability to build contemporary societal environments has steadily evolved beginning with mankind’s move from a raw diet to one that included the application of heat.

THE SPICE TRADE: Moving spices from Africa and the Middle East to the developed societies of Europe became so significant that it was the impetus for building ships and encouraging many to explore the rest of the world in search of spices for cooking and medicine. Constantinople became the center of spice trade and a mecca for political and economic tension since the early days of exploration.

MARCO POLO: Was not just a noteworthy explorer, he was an emissary for meshing the cultures of Asia and Europe. Through his travels he introduced the spice of peppers to Chinese cooks (likely instrumental in building some of the regional cuisines of this enormous country) and in turn brought the wonders of noodles back to Italy – pasta is, after all, the most noteworthy staple in regional Italian cooking. With this trade also came the subsequent cross-pollination of cultures and opening society’s eyes to the beauty of “difference”.

THE INVENTION OF THE REAPER AND MECHANIZED FARMING:

Cyrus McCormick, although not a cook by trade, was an inventor who had one of the most significant impacts on what cooks do, the cost and availability of raw materials and the accessibility of farm goods to the American population. America moved from subsistence farming allowing individuals to transition into manufacturing and other service jobs, increasing their disposable income and ability to take part in a free-enterprise system that created numerous entrepreneurial opportunities.

ESCOFFIER, FERDINAND POINT, CAREME, etc.: Affluence driven by opportunities for business and wealth creation drove the need for grand hotels to service a traveling population. These hotels realized the need for exceptional food to support this mobile society. Some of the greatest chefs of all time were instrumental in raising the bar for hotel dining and setting the standards for all cooks and chefs in the future. Freestanding restaurants had yet to follow suit and in most cases were still, at this point, considered inferior to eating at home.

PROHIBITION IN THE STATES: One of the most controversial laws in U.S. history banned the making, distribution, sale or consumption of alcoholic beverages. This lasted for 13 years until it’s repeal in 1933. Contrary to the law, Americans did not stop producing, distributing, selling or consuming alcohol – they simply did this illegally in speakeasy’s. These “illegal bars” dotted the American landscape in nearly every town from coast to coast. As much as the government attempted to shut them down, bust up illegal breweries and distilleries, arrest and imprison violators, the alcoholic beverage industry continued to flourish underground for the duration of prohibition. Once the law was repealed, these “gin mills (as they were called)” became the restaurants that would eventually rise to a level of culinary prominence in the decades that followed.

A COMMITMENT TO THE AUTOMOBILE: President Eisenhower, following World War II, enacted a program that would focus on building a network of highways across America. These connecting links that were built and managed by Federal and State Departments of Transportation created an opportunity and a need for every American family to own an automobile, to shed the need to stay in close proximity to their homes, to travel for business or leisure and to “see the USA in their Chevrolet”. Wherever roads intersected it was common to find a gas station and a diner. These early diners were in support of the American dream to own a business and would typically reflect an unwritten National Cuisine that was a combination of traditional comfort foods and what would later become the fast food industry. Each diner needed a cook who then built a following among patrons who saw restaurants as something beyond necessity – it became fun to “dine out”.

JULIA CHILD: What was most significant about Julia was not just her desire to bring French cooking to America; it was her ability to teach people, once again – how to cook at home while at the same time demonstrating her love of professional cooks and chefs. While paying homage to the great professional chefs who built the early foundations of American hospitality, she made cooking accessible and interesting to those who had a desire to improve what was found on the typical home table and did so using the most powerful medium at the time: television.

QUICK SERVICE RESTAURANTS: There is no question that there are numerous negatives associated with the quick service restaurant menu and the impact it continues to have on the American diet and health of our population, however, there is also little question that there have been positive cultural changes as a result that built a restaurant industry and opportunities for cooks at all levels. The advent of quick service from the early days when Ray Kroc savored the opportunity to sell his milk shake machines to the McDonald Brothers in California has allowed restaurants to move from the category of “luxury” to an integral part of our way of living. Nearly 50% of the current American family food dollar is spent in some type of restaurant. This has created immense opportunities for cooks and chefs, for restaurateurs, service staff, managers, advertisers, varied cuisine and service concepts, and a constant spark of energy in the U.S. economy.

TV DINNERS AND MICROWAVES – A step backward: TV dinners in the 1950’s brought the dinner table into the living room, broke down the concept of the family dining tradition and with it’s contemporary partner – the microwave oven, successfully broke down the “family table”. This societal change (not for the better in my opinion) took away the opportunity for families to converse and share, to listen and support, to build ideals and pass on traditions. An era of independence from the family model was and continues to be a result that we seem to be paying dearly for.

BIG BUSINESS RESTAURANTS: With a growing population use to dining in restaurants and a faltering family experience around food, there was an apparent need for chain concepts beyond quick service. Corporate food service changed the American societal landscape by making flavorful, not exceptional but affordable, thematic or ethnic foods in every metro area from coast to coast. Their buying power and driven standards took away the surprises associated with dining out, minimized the inconsistencies and allowed the American family an opportunity to afford to break bread together without microwave ovens that drove a wedge between generations. Each property may not need the expertise of a serious chef, but cook and service positions grew exponentially.

1976 AND CHEF LOUIS SZTHMARY: This jovial Chicago chef and restaurateur lobbied the U.S. Department of Labor to change the categorization chef from “domestic” to “professional”. This may not seem significant to some, but it set the stage for cooks and chefs to come into their own, hold their heads high and view being a cook or chef as a noble career. This designation built opportunities for serious cooks to aspire to positions that afforded salary and benefit packages previously unheard of before 1976.

THE FOOD NETWORK: Twenty-four hours a day, 365 days a year, we can watch amateurs and professionals attempt to talk with us about food, demonstrate preparations, define what we should eat or could eat, reveal some of the ethnic cultural differences in the world that lead to uniquely interesting foods, and even watch unrealistic renditions of what it is like to work in a professional kitchen. What this has done for the industry is both positive and puzzling at the same time. The unrealistic “show” of working in a restaurant has attracted thousands of young people every year to culinary schools from New York to California. As a result, there are many hundreds of schools that have been created to service this need and a growing population of chefs to serve as faculty. Restaurants have become sources of entertainment and a coveted reservation at a restaurant with a chef personality is as treasured as a ticket to see a favorite rock band. Chefs are now paid more than ever before (although it still doesn’t match the commitment of hours and incredibly hard work), art food has a market, the average diner is now familiar with good olive oil, aged balsamic, grass fed beef, how to make pasta, the most sophisticated kitchen gadgets on the market and the French, Italian and Asian names for ingredients and cooking processes that were unknown just a decade or so ago. We no longer talk about going out to dinner – now it is seeking a dining experience.
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So, here we are in 2014. Cooking has never experienced such a high. Chefs and cooks are respected positions and many are envious of those who choose to make cooking their career and passion. The work is incredibly hard, sometimes back breaking, the hours are excessive and the pay is better but not spectacular. We often times concentrate on these realities and ask: “why am I doing this”? Yes, there are challenges, but as this brief synopsis of food history points out, to be a cook is important. There have been societal mistakes and missteps along the way, but those in the field should never lose sight of how much society depends on us to set the course for cultural evolution.

Let this be an opportunity to be thankful for what we are able to do and how we are able to influence those around us through cooking. Where we have made mistakes – remember that we can also correct them. Cooking for others and breaking bread is one of the most enjoyable and important acts that humans can take part in. Be proud of the role that we all play in supporting and building a business that can make a positive difference each and every day. Cooks are important.

PLAN BETTER – TRAINING HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

Visit Culinary Cues for additional food and restaurant related articles.

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ENOUGH WITH INACCURATE TV FOOD SHOWS

06 Sunday Apr 2014

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ENOUGH WITH INACCURATE TV FOOD SHOWS

Nearly everyone in the restaurant business that I know cringes when anyone mentions one of the “reality food shows” on various networks. Inaccurate would not go far enough to describe the environment that is portrayed. Some may clarify and say, well this is really entertainment, but to a professional chef or cook, this “entertainment” does insurmountable harm to a great profession and paints a picture far from reality.

Way too many young people choose to attend culinary school as a result of over-exposure to shows that infer that cooks can wear what they want, chefs can say what they want, everything they prepare is judged by a panel of critics, that whatever piece of equipment they would like to see in a kitchen is available, cost is no object, and everything evolves around the spontaneity of developing a menu on the fly with obscure ingredients. This is not the kitchen of today, nor is it the kitchen that most professionals are used to or would accept. So let’s take a minute to define what it is really like.

The kitchens of Gordon Ramsey with red vs. blue teams, constant screaming (in full view of the guest), belittling of cooks by the chef and everyone looking out for themselves is so far from real that I am not sure where to begin. This is not to say that tempers never rise or that chefs never raise their voice, but the environment portrayed on TV would easily fall under the heading of: hostile work environment, a situation that can bring the department of labor or even lawsuits hovering at the back door of a restaurant. It just cannot happen like this any more. Most of the cooks that I know, if they were attacked in the way that Chef Ramsey is portrayed would either walk out the back door or pin him up against a cooler wall. Professional kitchens today stress the importance of team work, define success in terms of how everyone carries themselves on the job, how the chef attempts to manage calm in the kitchen that could easily melt due to the physical nature of the tasks involved and the pressure surrounding the timing and complexity of preparation.

As much as every chef and cook would love to have $100,000 Bonnet ranges in their operation, beautiful copper pots or Cuisinart cookware, that is rarely the case. Typically we work on ranges that have survived past their useful life and are kept alive through magical maintenance repair work and aluminum pans that are seasoned through heat and salt polishing and are bowed from constant exposure to open flames. The only copper is sitting in the chef’s office and brought out for decoration on dining room buffets. Cooks have been known to hide pots and pans in their lockers to ensure that they have something to work with on their shift (especially breakfast cooks who claim their egg pans are private property never to be touched by any other food except eggs).

Although cooks and chefs today may have a heavy dose of body tattoos, their uniforms are likely to be conservative white jackets, houndstooth pants, skull caps, side towels, white or blue aprons and supportive black shoes. Professional kitchens take pride in the tradition around the uniform and enforce the need for cooks to respect this.

It is very rare that a chef or cook is required to make a spontaneous menu out of silly ingredients that have no business in the same dish. Menus and recipes are developed painstakingly over a period of time with input from cooks, dining room staff and management. Recipes are tested, plate presentations are wrestled with and what appears on a menu is well thought out, researched and executed. Some restaurants are able to offer menus that change daily, but even in those cases – items are drawn from a chefs repertoire or expanded from dishes and techniques previously developed. Chefs take menu development very seriously, even daily features that might be drawn from available ingredient inventory or an occasional item that is driven by an unusual seasonal ingredient.

Iron Chef and Top Chef are sometimes fun to watch, but you may note that basic business acumen rarely comes into play. No one ever worries about the cost of ingredients, the limitless availability of equipment, or what a restaurant would need to charge for the items produced. I have seen dishes with excessive amounts of shaved truffle (probably $25-30 worth of cost on a plate which would equate to $75 or so in additional selling price), foie gras used as if it were the same price as chicken liver, items sautéed in expensive extra virgin olive oil and 25 year old balsamic vinegar drizzled on tomatoes at 10 times the price of a more standard balsamic product. Chefs are responsible for operating a restaurant as a financially successful business and to portray the position as being oblivious to this is terribly misleading.

If the networks want to portray accurate life in the kitchen, then they could find thousands of examples that are exciting, realistic and focused on painting a picture that could be easily digested by those in the industry, those who love to dine out and young people contemplating a career in a professional kitchen. Demonstrate the total commitment to cleanliness, sanitation and food safety. Show a typical day in a chef’s life from menu building, to working with purveyors, training cooks and ensuring that standards are followed, setting up the line for service, pre-meal with the service staff, keeping dishwashers happy, taking the time to build great plate presentations, keeping the rhythm of the line such that cooks don’t crash and burn half way though a busy night, and the challenges of adjusting to food allergies and unique food preferences. Show how a chef sweats the details of cost control: portioning, price shopping with various vendors, waste management, cross-utilization of ingredients, and inventory management. This is a daily challenge that consumes much of a chef’s day.

The restaurant business is very difficult and those who can adapt to the kitchen, understand their role, work well as a member of the team, remain focused on the foundations of cooking and be consistent in their approach to food preparation are a unique, proud breed who needs to be portrayed accurately: MY two cents.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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WHY DEMOCRACY DOESN’T WORK VERY WELL IN A KITCHEN

02 Wednesday Apr 2014

What are your thoughts about this topic? Please SHARE with your network, I would enjoy hearing other chef and cook opinions.

Harvest America Ventures

WHY DEMOCRACY DOESN’T WORK VERY WELL IN A KITCHEN

The foundations of our country stem from the concept of democracy or as clearly stated by Abraham Lincoln in the Gettysburg Address: “a government of the people, by the people and for the people…” a bold, and noble statement that most Americans take to heart, appreciate and support. We have the right and the obligation to vote for representatives who, at least in theory, have our best interests at heart and who stand tall to lobby on our behalf. In truth, we have seen this work at some level, but realize that a true democracy, where everyone has a say in decision-making is far from realistic. Yes, the compromise is to vote in representatives and if they disappoint us, vote for their replacement. We have also seen how representing multiple thoughts, ideas and beliefs can drag on for extensive periods of time without, in many cases, any resolution. This is…

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