Tag Archives: cuisine

COOKS ARE THE ANSWER – NOW, WHAT’S THE PROBLEM

12 Thursday May 2016

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tony and I

It certainly appears that the world is a mess. Our differences seem to far outweigh what we have in common. The number of significant conflicts throughout the world has never been greater. According to the Council on Foreign Relations – there are 26 wars or conflicts currently taking place throughout the world. Seventeen of those conflicts are considered critical or significant in relation to worldwide stability. I think that we would all agree that this is pretty depressing. The question that always comes to mind is “Why can’t we all just get along?”

OK, we tend to believe in different things, we may come from different cultural influences, differ in religious beliefs, align with opposing political inclinations, look different, act different, have more or less opportunity, vary in our opportunity for a quality education, and economically differ significantly, but why can’t we just get along. This is, of course, a tongue and cheek question since the answers are in the folds of this prior sentence. There is, however, a commonality that exists between every culture, every religion, and every political climate: we relish our culinary heritage.

“One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly (or occasionally) stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”

-Luciano Pavarotti

Of course, it was easy for Pavarotti, who did not suffer from the ability to put food on his table, to state this. There are many people throughout the world who are incapable of providing this basic need for themselves and their families. This is tragic for a number of reasons; obviously we need food to survive, but almost as important, we need certain foods to help preserve our heritage and define whom we are. It is, from my perspective, this heritage that can help to bring us together and “Get along”.

My experience has demonstrated that people are proud of their heritage, in particular their food history, proud of those who intend to preserve this heritage through cooking, and passionate about professional cooks and chefs who dedicate their lives to this endeavor. I have had the pleasure of meeting, and in some cases, working with professional cooks from various parts of the world and I can state, unequivocally, that our common appreciation for food is a bond that supersedes any differences that we might have. Those who are open to appreciating another person’s culture, in this case cuisine, will almost always find a seat at the table, a smile, and a full glass of the local beverage. Breaking bread is the great equalizer.

“There is a communication of more than bodies when bread is broken and wine drunk. And that is my answer when people ask me: Why do you write about hunger and not wars or love?”

-MFK Fisher

I have know chefs who worked in the White House – responsible for State Dinners that brought friends and adversaries together over a plate of food. I worked with the Executive Chef for the United Nations and marveled at his appreciation for, knowledge of, and subsequent stories of the foods from every cultural representative who sat around the Security Council. I have marveled at the brother and sisterhood that exist among chefs who compete in international culinary competitions, and those who dedicate their time and expertise to feed the homeless and the needy have humbled me. It is the plate of food and the effort that is applied towards its preparation that pushes our differences aside and creates a common ground to learn how much we are the same.

We should all applaud those cooks and chefs who are dedicated to understanding and preserving cultural cooking techniques and flavors; those who are focused on bringing us into the homes and restaurants of people from around the world – places that we don’t know and places where we have a tendency to pre-judge because of our ignorance; and those who dedicate their time to creating opportunities for chefs to get together and talk about food and it’s impact on the world.

Praise should be given to Anthony Bourdain for his commitment to opening doors and kitchens to each of us. His documentary approach towards learning about people who we don’t understand, to the culture that they are so proud of, and to the food that inspires this pride – should be an essential part of any balanced education. Praise should be given to Chef Charles Carroll, president of the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (WACS) – an organization of 100 country chefs’ associations, representing more than 10 million professional chefs worldwide; and numerous organizations and programs dedicated to feeding the less fortunate and bringing sustainable food programs to countries in need.

WACS MISSION STATEMENT

“The World Association of Chefs’ Societies (Worldchefs) is a non-political professional organization, dedicated to maintaining and improving the culinary standards of global cuisines.

We accomplish these goals through education, training and professional development of our international membership. As an authority and opinion leader on food, Worldchefs represents a global voice on all issues related to the culinary profession.”

When we feed the people of the world, when we show respect for the history of their food and food preparation, when we lift a spoon in recognition of their technique, break bread and toast their culinary history, we begin the process of setting aside our differences and looking for that common thread that might allow us all to “Get along”.

Knowing that every cook may not have the ability to impact this global appreciation, there is much that can be done in your micro kitchen world. Dedicating yourself to learning about the roots of cuisine and showing respect for authenticity is a start. To a person of a different culture – failure to take the time to learn the how and why of their food process and flavors is insulting. Your job as a cook should go way beyond following steps, organizing your station, and replicating the plate presentation that emulates the chef’s style. Your job, for those who are serious about what they do, is to reflect knowledge and appreciation through each plate that is prepared. A chef’s job is to be caretaker of these processes, become the teacher (not just the trainer), encourage and in some cases – insist that cooks work from a basis of true understanding and appreciation, and be the vehicle for demonstrating how food is the great unifier.

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, (as well as political opinion and differences), it would be a merrier world.”

-J.R. Tolkien (paraphrased)

This may seem very altruistic, but it is a small way (maybe a big way) with which we (cooks) can make a difference. Consider what we do as being more than a job or a career – it is what we are meant to do. If this is the case then we owe it to ourselves to leave a positive mark.

Cooks and Chefs – What we do is enormously important.

Visit WACS website:

www.worldchefs.org

**Photo by: Kristin Parker Photography

with my mentor:  Tony Flory, CMC – rest in peace chef

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting and Training

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Chefs and Servers with Different Motivations

06 Tuesday Aug 2013

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When chefs and service staff are not on the same page the guest experience is confused and disjointed. When I have referenced the importance of team in the kitchen I am concerned that some might think that if that “culinary island” is in sync then the guest experience will be great. Team refers to a cohesive effort on the part of all staff members to create that exceptional dining event.

What motivates your staff on a daily basis (keeping in mind that you, as a manager or chef, cannot motivate another employee. This is something that they must do for themselves)? What can you do to help insure the right customer event?

Your official job is to create the environment for positive self-motivation. This, of course, begins with selecting the individuals with the “right stuff”, orienting them to the operation and its philosophy, training with gusto, investing in providing the right tools, creating forums for open communication between all team members, empowering people to make decisions, recognizing people for their role and thanking them for going the extra mile, setting the example for others to follow, providing honest critique and when necessary demonstrating how to correct areas that need attention. The most important piece is creating ample opportunities for open communication.

Chefs are typically motivated by the creative process. Their motivation is the tactile process of work that brings an idea to fruition on the plate. The hard facade that often accompanies the image of a chef is really just a protective crust that hides the fragile artist underneath who takes real pride in bringing out flavors, presenting their art on a canvas (plate) and seeing clean plates return from the dining room. That mis-step that brings excellent food to ordinary, incredible ingredients to ruin, fresh food to something that is dry and inappropriate or a smiling guest to the unhappy recipient of a plate of food that is below their expectations is devastating to a serious cook or chef. Self-loathing happens on a daily basis among cooks and chefs who are serious about their craft. As “up” as they may be when things go right, the lows are pretty severe when they don’t. They eat, drink and sleep “food”, their closest professional companion. They relish incredible ingredients and bow to those who are able to make magic food out of what they are given to work with.

Servers are certainly pleased when guests are happy with their experience, however, the compensation system that restaurants have adopted for waiters drives them to work for the reward of a great tip. In the end, it is the gratuity that demonstrates to the server that they have performed at an acceptable or greater than acceptable level. It is rare to find a server today who is just as pumped about food as the chef. You rarely see a service staff member blurry-eyed from reading cookbooks until 2 a.m. or spending their day off hanging out at other restaurants to help refine their craft. We (restaurants) have not created the community of food lovers who know as much about the ingredients, cooking and flavor profiles as the chef. This is not the fault of the server, it is the fault of leadership not paying attention to how critical it is for chefs and servers to share a similar passion. Without this passion and commitment, the guest experience is disjointed.

On those rare occasions when I have experienced a restaurant in complete sync, it is incredible to sit back and watch what transpires. Cooks and service staff carry on conversations about food, other restaurants, as well as wine and food/wine pairings they have experienced. The staff meal is a collaborative event with front and back of the house laughing, sharing stories, quizzing each other on tonight’s preparations and truly enjoying each other’s company.

The end result is always a better customer experience because service staff and cooks are truly interested in how the food is perceived, how the flavors marry with that wine that the sommelier suggested, and how many times the guest pulls out their smart phone, not to talk, but to take pictures of the food.

When chefs and servers share the same inspiration, the guest can feel it. These rare restaurants are always first on everyone’s list when it comes time to make a reservation.

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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A COOK AND A CHEF

14 Sunday Jul 2013

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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A COOK AND A CHEF

A few years back I read of an interview with a prominent chef who was asked: “what is the difference between a chef and the millions of cooks throughout America.” The response, to me, was a perfect definition: “Most reasonably intelligent people can follow a recipe with mixed results, a chef can be given a basket of ingredients and is able to create something wonderful.” Although this is an over-simplification, there is a real element of truth to this statement. A chef is certainly a manager and a leader, a cost accountant and a marketer, a social scientist and an organizational guru; but above all, a chef is a passionate and accomplished cook.

The ability to “create something wonderful”, stems from a persons ability to draw from his/her flavor memory. A serious cook must be a person who has experienced a full array of flavors, taste combinations, foods at their peak of maturity, seasonings, and texture combinations. Without this “data bank” it would be nearly impossible to create magic with food. To go even further, chefs have life experiences that are filled with an understanding of history and various cultures. It would be difficult to cook wonderful Spanish foods without understanding the culture of Spain, it would be challenging to understand classical French food without studying Ferdinand Point, Larousse, Escoffier, Careme, Bocuse, Robuchon and Verge. To cook French you must feel like you are French, to cook Italian, Mexican, Scandinavian, or Thai, you must understand the culture of those countries and most importantly have cooked with those who were born into those cultures.

“A recipe has no soul…..” was a quote from Thomas Keller, truly one of America’s great chef’s of the past few decades. This should not be viewed as an endorsement for kitchens without structure; just the contrary. I am sure that Keller has his own version of the standardized recipe, however what he and most accomplished chefs know is that a recipe does not create a cook. The recipe is a reference, but the cook must draw from his/her flavor memory and understanding of culture to build the recipe into a great dish. There are just far too many variables that come into play (seasonality, maturity, size, terroir, brand, shipping, storage, etc.) to rely on a recipe as the consummate guide in cooking. Some of the best cookbooks that I have used such as: “Le Repertoire de la Cuisine”, only list the ingredients in a dish without procedure or amounts. The ingredient list is a reminder for the chef who knows, though experience, what a dish should look and taste like, and the method of cooking that is appropriate for the outcome of that dish.

Those who have a desire to become great cooks and chefs must live the following: taste everything, experience as many different cooks work as possible, travel and experience cultures, read about the history of food, learn from the best, taste again and record your experiences. Keep recipes as a guide but cook with your soul.

Kudos to Thomas Keller for getting it right.

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Escargots – So Much for Eating with your Eyes

19 Wednesday Jun 2013

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I oftentimes find myself asking “who was the first brave person to eat………(fill in the blank)”. A long-time advocate for insuring that food looks good, I am somewhat perplexed at the exceptions to the rule. Food does have to get past the eyes before it gets to the mouth, yet adventurous individuals continue to push that envelope.

Let’s talk escargots for a moment: I happen to love the classic French version from the heart of Burgundy wine country and relish any opportunity to eat a dozen or so, but I would not have been one of the first to go that route. There is very little about the snail that is enticing (as the picture demonstrates) and alive they would hardly make a typical lover of food salivate. Yet, here we are still listing snails as one of the delicacies of the gourmet world.

If we love them in formal restaurants, the French countryside residents can eat them like we might enjoy a bushel of crayfish in New Orleans (the French consume about 10,000 tons of snails each year).

Apparently, according to Larousse Gastronomique, snails have been fodder for the table since the days of the Roman Empire. In France, one would find most of the snails that were bound for the table, clinging to the leaves of grape vines, thus very plentiful throughout this world wine capital.

Keep in mind that the habitat for snails is not very sterile and they are not discriminating eaters themselves, so I would not recommend that you pick those creeping through your garden and cook them without some methodical work. Snails have been know to eat plants that might be toxic to humans so they must be purged before cooking. Those that are raised for consumption are placed in isolation for quite a few days and fed a fiber diet that will clean their systems before being placed on the stove. If you are willing to move past the appearance, the best bet is to probably order a few cans of pre-purged and par cooked snails (French Helix preferred) from a reputable purveyor. I would avoid those from China.

With a small amount of work, you can be the gourmet hero of your community by preparing a delicious, fun and conversation provoking “Escargot tapas event”. You can add some authentic eye appeal by ordering beautiful escargot shells and snail clamps on line.

The recipe could not be easier:

SNAIL BUTTER (for 3 dozen):

Softened salted butter 1 pound
Minced garlic 8 cloves
Chopped parsley 1/2 cup
Pernod 1 oz.

Blend all ingredients.
Place a cooked snail in each shell and fill the rest of the cavity with snail butter. Place in a pan of raw rice to keep the snails upright and butter intact.
In a 375 degree oven, bake for 15 minutes.
Serve piping hot with generous amounts of your favorite wine. I prefer Pinot Noir, but if white wines float your boat, then a Sauvignon Blanc like Sancerre or Pouilly Fume would be terrific.

Close your eyes and savor.

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