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WHAT CUSTOMERS DON’T KNOW ABOUT RESTAURANT WORK

17 Tuesday Nov 2020

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chefs, cooks, culinary, kitchens, restaurant life

More difficult than you may have thought, more chaotic than you might expect, more poetic than you realize, and more fulfilling than you would understand: this, to me, describes the environment of the professional kitchen that few customers are able to view or experience. It is this dichotomy of experiences that draws people into a career behind the range and keeps them there for decades. This is a behind the scenes look at the place and the people that bring a plate of food to the guest’s table.

TEN THINGS YOU DIDN”T KNOW ABOUT A RESTAURANT

An organizational structure that attempts to keep things under control

There is a long history of how kitchens and restaurants are structured. Although executed at different levels – this structure is something that all those whom work in restaurants can depend and lean on. It is our comfort zone – a place and an organizational structure that makes sense and attempts to keep a lid on a long list of independent work before and during service.

In the kitchen – work responsibilities are divided into oversight and action positions – the number depending on the scope of the restaurant menu and the size of the operation, but basically there are chefs, cooks, and support staff. Each have specific duties and all have some shared responsibility. The chef will likely be the most experienced culinarian with responsibility for the financial operation of the kitchen, menu planning, ordering and inventory control, training, and quality control. He or she may not spend as much time cooking as a typical guest might think. The cook is the action person – this is the individual who actually brings ingredients together, responds to customer requests, and prepares your plate of food. The support staff members include those dishwashers, and cleaners who keep the ship afloat during the chaos of prep and assembly.

The front of the house is typically separated into those who interface with guests directly and walk them through the ordering process to those who set the stage and support the work of the primary server. This includes back waiters, bus personnel, and bartenders. The strict alignment to table stations, training, development of a wine list that complements the food menu, and the smooth oversight of intense chaos so that it seems to be controlled rests on the shoulders of the dining room or restaurant manager.

Regardless of the restaurant type – this is a standard structure that anyone working in the business can expect and adapt to.

Independence in a manufacturing model that defies logic

To walk through a kitchen prior to service you will see a number of cooks and support staff going about their respective work with seemingly little connection to a master plan. Each will have their own list of prep that relates to either a station or event and with rare exception they are allowed autonomy in how they approach the work. Underneath the façade of independence lies a system that keeps all of this personal activity integrated into a bigger picture. This may never become apparent until these same cooks are setting up their stations for finish work once the dining room doors open to the public.

A cluster of artists accepting control

Every seasoned cook struggles with controlling a desire to flex his or her artistic muscle and modify a dish to suit his or her style. At the same time, each cook is fully aware that consistency and adherence to the standards of excellence that defines the restaurant must win in the long run. A smart chef will provide opportunities for creative expression through nightly features and a cook’s input on the next wave of menus. Any long-term attempt to keep artistic expression under wraps will result in constant replacement of cooks after frustrated ones leave for an operation with more freedom.

Chaos that leads to symphonic orchestration

There are two different kitchens, two different restaurants that might be observed by an interested guest. The kitchen before service is alive with independent, sometimes stressful work scattered throughout the space. Each cook is struggling against the clock to get his or her prep in order before setting a station for service. Once service begins there will not be any time to take care of prep that was not completed in advance. To view this, one would certainly use the word: chaos.

Once each line station is set for service, the mise en place is well appointed, the side towels are folded, pans stacked in the ready, menu reviewed, and ingredients are in place; once the orders start to tick off the printer and the expeditor raises his or her baton to signify the start of the nightly score – the chaos turns into a beautiful piece of music. Cooks pivot and turn, pans ring as they hit the stove top, tongs click in rhythm, plates clang in unison as they are set in the pass for pick up, and cooks chime in with yes chef when directives are given by the expeditor. You can put music to this dance that is very poetic and fluid.

Improvisation that is kept in check

Although cooks will have a chance to express themselves through nightly features and an occasional pitch of an item for the next menu – when the restaurant doors are open on any given night – their job is to make sure that each dish is prepared consistently, looks and tastes the same, and follows the established design that the chef has put his or her stamp on. There can be no deviation from the established norm. Cooks know that “buy-in” to this game plan is essential if they hope to keep customers coming back time and again.

The chef who rarely cooks your food

This may be a shock to many guests, but the chef in your favorite restaurant is probably not the person who cooks your meal. As previously mentioned each person has specific responsibilities and the chef’s are at a different level than those who finish the food you order. It is, however, the chef who is responsible to train those cooks how to prepare the dishes that the restaurant puts its signature on.

A culture of family that defies logic

All of the typical highs and lows of being part of a family exist in a kitchen. Team members know each other’s strengths and weaknesses and compensate accordingly. They may be highly critical of each other, but don’t ever assume that someone outside of the “family” has the right to do the same. When in trouble – the team will help a member of their group – without question. There is a brotherhood or sisterhood that is just as real as if there was a biological connection between them.

Service staff that have other careers

The majority of those restaurant servers that a guest connects with have other jobs – sometimes jobs that are their chosen careers – they just don’t pay enough, or they don’t provide the challenges and stressful excitement that comes from being a pleasant server, psychologist, counselor, and menu expert for those who fill dining room tables.

A gathering place for castoffs and square pegs

The dynamic of the restaurant employee (especially in the kitchen) is flush with those who don’t fit in, are not inspired by typical 40 hour work weeks, find comfort in chaos, never flinch at cuts and burns, and do what they do out of a love for the art they produce and challenges that uncertainty brings every day. Restaurant employees are part of a culture that doesn’t fit anywhere else.

Adrenaline junkies who are gluttons for punishment

When you step back and watch all of this, when you discover that cooks in particular live on the edge of disaster on any given day, when you see how they kick into gear when the job becomes impossible, and when you see them return the next day for a repeat of the same punishment, then you will begin to understand that the heat, the stress, the uncertainty, and the shear craziness of kitchen life is driven by the adrenaline rush. Unless you have been there and felt it, you can’t understand.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

**Check in to CAFÉ Talks Podcast this Wednesday – November 18 for an interview with Chef Jeremiah Tower.

A COOK’S SENSUAL OVERLOAD – TOUCH, TEXTURE, CHEW

12 Thursday Nov 2020

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chefs, chew, cook's senses, cooking, cooks, kitchens, restaurants, texture, touch

We are tactile beings – the feel and texture of things that we encounter is very personal and very important to our life experience. Such is the case with the food that we consume. As is stated by the Institute for the Psychology of Eating – some believe that chew or experiencing the texture of food is an innate need to show a level of aggression – a necessary release for our piece of mind – while others simply point to the process of chewing as an essential part of the digestion process. In all cases, the concept of flavor depends on the texture of food, to be complete.

To this end, certain foods are defined by their texture or chew. What would a September apple be without that crisp snap when we bite into it, what would a great bagel be without the hard work of chewing, a pudding without the creamy texture of softened butter, or a steak without the rich chew that releases the deep umami sensation that is a result?

“So important is the level of crunch that many years ago, potato-chip manufacturers developed a sophisticated apparatus to measure the perceived level of crunch that consumers hear in their heads. The most pleasurable decibel levels were deciphered, and potato chips were subsequently manufactured to these standard orgasmic crunch levels.”-The Institute for the Psychology of Eating

Flavor is a complex and complete experience – it is far beyond the stimulation of taste receptors. To taste without chew is shallow and incomplete. Chew is something that has lasting meaning and, like smell, there is memory attached to it. Just as we remember and look forward to the texture of that fall apple, so too do we vividly remember what that experience is and use it as a benchmark of quality when it comes to judging all other apples.

Texture and chew is also a metaphor in life that points to how these “touch” events determine the depth to which we become one with life’s experiences. We are told to “chew on it” when presented with an opportunity or problem. Accountants “crunch” the numbers signifying a commitment to ensuring that the results are accurate and when we over-extend or take on too much responsibility we are said to “bite off more than we can chew”. It is this physical process or association that helps to define the type of experience that is a result.

As cooks and chefs build their flavor memory they must understand and categorize the process of connecting with texture, touch, and chew. Think about these products and experiences and how important touch, texture, and chew are to the dynamics of flavor.

That first oyster or clam:

It is an act of faith in the strong recommendation from a chef or the result of a dare from others that allows us that first experience with a raw oyster or clam. Certainly, it is rare that anyone would choose to let a live shellfish slide down your throat for any other reason – yet, if we allow that incredible texture and ocean brininess to take hold – the flavor experience is like no other. In this case – chew is very subtle; we allow the throat to simply accept the texture of the sea.

The French fry expectation:

Food companies spend countless hours trying to perfect the French fry experience. For the product to meet and exceed expectations it must retain its deep fried crunch on the exterior while yielding a soft and moist experience within. It is a delicate balance between the type of potato, the method of processing, the state of chill or freeze, how it is blanched, the type of oil used in deep frying, the temperature of the oil, and knowing how the cook will treat the whole process before the finished product is placed in the pass. With the French fry – texture is king.

Ripe melon:

Melon is one of those fruits that thrive on the extreme. An unripe melon just doesn’t feel right in the mouth, is tasteless, and is likely quickly discarded by any who have experienced the benchmark of ripeness. When ripeness is at its peak – the texture is soft, yet still in complete control, the flavor is pronounced, the level of moisture is intoxicating, and the overall food memory created is exceptional. Once you experience a perfectly ripe melon – nothing else will do.

Vine ripened tomato:

To meet the demands for tomatoes on the market – twelve months a year, and to be able to ship those same tomatoes without damage – they are far too often produced in a greenhouse, sometimes hydroponically, picked long before vine maturity, sometimes waxed and sent your way. The result is a firm and tasteless product that barely resembles what a perfect tomato should be. When a tomato is exposed to the sun, grown in rich soil, picked when it is mature and consumed while still warm from that July sun – it is something to write books about and sing its praise with song. When the texture of the skin serves to simply keep those warn tomato seeds from bursting forth, when the bite yields the powerful flavor and soft texture of that warm interior running down your chin – then you have a flavor memory that will linger until next season.

The magic avocado:

Maybe more so than any other fruit – the avocado is a tough client for the chefs cutting board. Before it is ripe – the texture is uninviting and unwilling to add any value to the kitchen program at your restaurant. Left too long in its skin and the peak creaminess of a perfect fruit turns to a stringy and sometimes blackened interior that shouts to the cook that he or she has waited too long. When the avocado is perfect it is as creamy as softened butter, rich in flavor and brilliant in color. This is the fruit that serves as a centerpiece for salads, appetizers, and your favorite guacamole.

Crispy skin of a roast chicken:

There are few preparations that point to the skill of a seasoned cook than a perfectly roasted chicken. When the cook pays as much attention to the skin as he or she does the breast meat or rich darkness of the thigh and leg, then the chicken experience is so prominent as to become a favorite meal. Basting, seasoning, covering and uncovering through the roasting process will yield that crisp, buttery, salty crunch that is the first thing that a knowledgeable consumer reaches for.

A Georgia peach at peak maturity:

Stone fruits like plums, nectarines, cherries, apricots, and peaches can be just as fickle as the avocado. Typically picked before maturity so that shipping does not damage the fruit – these hand held products of nature can be too hard, too unforgiving, and too tasteless for positive food memories. When picked at or near maturity – the peach is an ambassador for Mother Nature. Soft with a small amount of bite, bursting with flavor of sweet and a little bit of tartness, dripping with nectar, and hard to put down – the ripe peach is right at the top of the food memory data bank.

Artisan bread:

Very few foods are as satisfying as perfectly baked artisan sourdough bread. When done right – the combination of a crisp exterior and a chewy interior that releases more and more flavor the longer you chew is something that you can experience virtually once imbedded in your food memory.

The stages of salt water taffy:

Maybe not the most prominent flavor that chefs think about, but in remembrance of your youth – walking on the beach and stopping at that salt water taffy stand is something that can define an important time in your life. Taffy has it all from a texture and chew standpoint. The warmth of the sun makes the taffy a bit sticky to handle, but once in your mouth you will always remember the changes from a challenging chew at first to different stages of softness until it finally melts and disappears. Incredible – imagine if chefs could re-create these stages with their dessert selections in a restaurant.

Al dente pasta:

Al dente – or firm to the bite defines how most pasta is designed to be eaten. When cooked al dente – pasta is digested more slowly and thus satisfies your hunger for a longer period of time. The firmer texture creates a more enjoyable “chew” and retains far more flavor than over-cooked pasta that bleeds out its flavor to the salted cooking water.

A comfortable dining room chair:

Aside from the food itself – the environment where we dine has much to do with the flavor experience. An uncomfortable chair detracts from the process of eating and attention is placed on finding a way to relax so that dining becomes a positive respite.

The feel of the right flatware:

The feel and type of flatware can enhance the flavor experience if it matches the food ingredients, their preparation and their cost. A plastic fork and knife may be perfectly acceptable for that Nathan’s hot dog and fries, but the Black Angus rib eye steak deserves a rose wood handled Henkel steak knife and heavy, long tine sterling silver fork. The touch of the tools is part of the dish memory.

The delicate elegance of the right wine glass:

Wine is such a unique beverage that is impacted throughout its life by numerous environmental factors. The struggle that the vine goes through to extract nutrients from the terrior will determine much of the grapes integrity and flavor; the process of touch as it applies to how the grapes are crushed (gravity fed or more aggressively pressed) will determine if the grapes are bruised and possibly change the deepness of flavor; the packaging for shipment of bottles will either protect or endanger the stability of the continued bottle fermentation; and the quality of the wine glass does, in fact, impact the experience of taste and aroma. If you have never been through a Riedl glass seminar then make sure you put it on your list of “must do” experiences

Touch, texture, and chew are essential components of the dining experience and critical elements that define your food memory benchmarks.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

COOKS AND CHEFS – WE ALL CRAVE DISCIPLINE

27 Tuesday Oct 2020

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chefs, cooks, kitchen discipline, kitchens, Professionalism, restaurants

Let’s not confuse freedom with a desire to do whatever we want without a system of order or respect for the discipline of structure. We can both be free and still respect the need for that discipline that comes from organization. A well-run kitchen is not a free-form environment where every cook does his or her own thing or moves to the beat of his or her own drum. Just like other well-run organizations – the kitchen functions best in a system where everyone has well defined jobs, follows the structure of systems or order, and exhibits the discipline of structural respect.

Whether it is the military, your favorite baseball or football team, FedEx, UPS, the airlines, or your favorite musical group – structure and a level of discipline are essential if the end result is going to be accomplishment of business objectives.

My experience, and I will note that it may not be everyone’s experience, is that kitchens tend to attract a broad array of staff members who come from environments where discipline is not always the norm. The refreshing nature of discipline is what attracts many of those great employees to the environment of the kitchen. There is comfort in the ability to achieve concrete objectives – a well-prepared plate of food and a satisfied customer. There is comfort in wearing a clean, crisp, white uniform that represents history, tradition, and pride. There is comfort in following the directives on a prep list, a recipe, or a banquet order. There is comfort in knowing and executing foundational methods of cooking that can consistently yield good results. There is comfort in knowing that there is a chain of command in the kitchen and that following this order creates a sense of team when and where it is needed.

I have recently read articles that claim that the discipline and order of chefs as far back as Escoffier or as contemporary as Ferran Adria or Thomas Keller are no longer appropriate or needed. That this structure that chefs have defended for generations will somehow stifle an individuals opportunities in a kitchen and thwart their ability to grow. Oh contraire, my experience is just the opposite. It is exactly this structure, and this discipline that helps to develop talented, polished individuals and build a skill set that leads to long-term success.

Do not misconstrue this support for discipline as an endorsement of hostile work environments where some chefs have been known to demean and excessively criticize cooks – there is no place for this approach. Discipline is not synonymous with this awful, abhorrent approach that is, for some reason, portrayed as normal on TV kitchen shows. This may have been normal in the distant past, but it cannot be tolerated today. But, a level of discipline and structure is critical, especially in complex, ever changing and time sensitive environments like a busy kitchen.

I have observed kitchens that are highly disciplined while employee centric at the same time. It is these kitchens that hum with enthusiasm, pride, and professionalism and produce extraordinary results. I have seen cooks when they button up those crisp, clean uniforms, tie on an apron, and draw their knives across a wet stone to hone an edge; when they wipe down their station, line up their tools, and pull down an organized prep sheet, and I have watched that spring in their step, that look of focused professionalism that can only occur in a kitchen that respects the order and discipline of the work.

It makes no difference if it is a 4-diamond restaurant offering fine dining, a quality pizza shop, a bakery, or a hospital foodservice – discipline, pride, and results are closely aligned. I have seen cooks from all different walks of life – some from culinary schools, some who worked their way up from dishwasher, some born into an American neighborhood, and some who came to our country for a better life, both male and female, young and at the beginning of their work life and others who are nearing the end of their careers – come together with pride in the work they do, joy in their accomplishments in front of the range, and charged up about the kitchen where they work. This is what discipline and organization bring to a work environment.

Peek into the kitchens of restaurants that you patronize and you can immediately see the difference. In fact, it is likely that the food presented to you as a customer will reveal the level of discipline, professionalism, and organization that exists in that kitchen.

A chef who understands that his or her role is to define that structure, create an environment where critique is tied to training, and results are aligned with the structure and organization that –yes, Escoffier, Pointe, Poilane, Keller, Trotter, and others established or reinforced, is a chef who will not only find personal success, but will set the stage for employees to enjoy a long and fruitful career.

There are many aspects of the restaurant business that need to change: pay scales, benefits, reasonable work schedules, tolerance of chefs and operators who demean and belittle employees, and addressing the factors in restaurants that limit profitability- but, in all cases it will be organization and structural discipline that will make those changes possible.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

A KITCHEN’S ELEGANT LAST IMPRESSIONS

07 Wednesday Oct 2020

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bakers, chefs, desserts, kitchens, pastry chefs

As a chef, I have long admired the craft of the Patissier and Boulanger. Chefs readily admit that the skill set of a dedicated pastry chef or bread baker is quite different from that of the savory chef. Aside from the innate artistic talent for detailed presentations – the pastry chef is far more adept at applying the exactness of chemistry to food, and far more intent on the details and patience required to present incredible works on a plate. Pastry chefs are in a league of her own – a club of amazingly talented individuals who make every chef shake his or her head in disbelief at the art of individual with a pastry bag in hand.

One of my favorite “wake up” moments was working in a competition kitchen many years ago when the famous Pastry Chef – Lars Johannson walked by my station. I was busy piping a salmon mousse on canapés at the time. He looked at me and

said: “You do very nice work, but you have no business holding a pastry bag.” He walked away and I knew for certain that pastry work was not in my future.

I have always subscribed to the importance of first and last impressions to the overall experience of dining. Think about it – I would dare to say that many guests understand that those initial experiences in a restaurant and those that end the meal are the ones that stick with us. They define the food experiences that we have and create benchmarks for others to follow.

Whether it is a trip to your local retail bakery, a walk through a well appointed grocery store, that first impression of food when seated in a restaurant or the final course before the presentation of the check – I guarantee that the visual impact,

deep aromas, and first bite of an artisan bread, or luscious plated dessert are some of the most satisfying parts of the guest experience.

Why is it that a simple ham sandwich from a bistro in Paris can be so extraordinary? Sliced ham on a buttered baguette – that’s it! Why does this rival the finest complex sandwich found in a New York deli? It’s the quality of the bread. Why is it that no matter how full we might be after a restaurant meal – it takes very little prodding to convince us to order that feature dessert? It’s our nature to crave something sweet and our desire to see just how exceptional the kitchen might be with this last impression.

That commitment to great bread and the focus that a chef places on a dessert menu that rivals a restaurants signature entrees is one of the most important drivers of a successful restaurant. That beautiful retail bakery window display that highlights the skills of a pastry chef with cakes, tarts, petite fours, profiteroles, Madeleines, and meringues is impossible to resist.

People crave the luxury and innocent pleasures that sugar, pastry, fruits, genoise, chocolate, and crème fillings bring. It is in our DNA to want and our limited willpower to resist the temptations of the pastry chef. If a chef loses sight of this

reality then he or she is limiting the full experience for the diner.

Bobby Flay once said: “First Impressions are Everything”, but I would add – it is also true that: Last Impressions are Forever Impressions. The pastry chef and baker are responsible for both.

It may have been Chef Careme who first brought the concept of Grand Cuisine and the art of cooking to the event tables of his day, but today’s pastry chef has refined and re-defined the art and the importance of food for the eyes as well as the palate.

Carême, as you may remember, gained fame in Paris for his elaborate centerpieces made of pastillage, sugar, and marzipan. He did free lance work for Napoleon and Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to name a few.

A pastry chef to those operations large and complex enough to support the position is the visual signatory of the operation. Hotels, resorts, clubs, and caterers crave those signature pieces to make their food events stand out as memorable and sought after. A grand wedding deserves the grandest of cakes; a conference or convention seeks out those centerpieces on buffets and individual tables that reflect the objectives of the event; holiday festivities in hotels and resorts demand those structures that align the property with the joy of Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter, Hanukah, and other ethnic and religious celebrations as well as welcoming in the New Year. It is what is expected and it will always be what guests talk about for years to come.

The talent of the pastry chef may be innate, but the skill to produce centerpieces and individual plated works of art is built from hard work, countless years of practice, and loads of patience.

A SINGLE DAY OF EXCELLENCE:

The pastry chef – Suzanne Holmes, enters a resort kitchen just shortly after 4 a.m. – the bread baker is pulling crusty whole-wheat boules and crunchy baguettes from the oven – his day is nearing an end. She pulls down the clipboard with today’s prep list and smiles nervously at the breadth of detailed work to be done. Her apprentice will arrive shorty and Sam – her counterpart for the evening shift will take over sometime after 3 p.m. This is a week of high profile events including the unveiling of the hotel’s new spa. Chef Holmes will need to concentrate much of her effort today on completing an elaborate chocolate sculpture of male and female figures in a yoga pose. This has been a project that she has worked on for the past two weeks in addition to her normal onslaught of pastry and dessert work. Additionally, two weddings will require triple tier fondant cakes and nearly 1,000 individual petite fours glace. The dessert menu that has brought fame to the main restaurant must be stocked with individual components that Sam will assemble in the evening. Chef Holmes breathes easy when she touches base with Addie – her bread baker and breakfast pastry aficionado – she knows that this part of her department will always take care of itself.

The petite fours cakes have been layered and trimmed so all that remains is to wrap them in marzipan, coat with fondant, and pipe a simple rosette on the top of each bite size piece. Her apprentice has been with the department for six months now so aside from delicate chocolate filigree work and important sauce reductions – the apprentice can handle the restaurant dessert work. Sam always keeps up with ice cream work since the operation added two Pacolet machines that make the work much easier. So – it looks like centerpiece time. Chef estimates that the finish work on the sculptures and final spray with cocoa butter will take her about three hours – plenty of time to let everything set and move the showpiece to the spa entrance. The resort GM is counting on the chocolate work to be front and center when local press arrives to take pictures at the opening. Another three hours on the petite fours and the two weddings tomorrow should be set except for assembly and final piping on the three tier cakes.

As pressured as Chef Holmes feels she knows that being patient and methodical are essential traits with the detail work before her. Her dedication to excellence and insistence that every piece of work that comes from her shop meet exacting standards makes the work fun, but always stressful. She re-hangs the prep sheet clipboard, sets her station and begins a typical day in the pastry shop – a day where her last impressions will help to define the quality of the whole operation.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

A CHEF’S 2020 LAMENT

04 Friday Sep 2020

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chefs, cooks, covid kitchen, kitchens, restaurants

They say that hindsight is 2020 – that being so, there is plenty for us to reflect on and determine how we might have done things differently. The fact is, we can’t go back, but we can look forward. At this point we are all hoping that 2020 will just fade from our memories. In the moment, however, there are loads of things that we miss, things that make us shake our heads in disbelief, things that we long for – a return to a time when our greatest concern as a chef was our reservation list and daily mise en place.

The prudent approach would probably be to put the past behind us and lay a course for the future, but when the future is so uncertain there is some solace in looking backward and reminiscing about those things that had put a smile on our face. There is always a level of comfort in reflection, even if there is “no turning back”. It’s history, as they say, but history is important. History is a great teacher and, if nothing else, we can reflect as a way to learn.

So, what do chefs miss in this crazy environment where employees and guests float around in masks, keeping their distance, and eyeing each other with concern? What do chefs long for in a world where restaurants are closing left and right – even the most established ones? What do chefs crave when protocol becomes far more important that the flavor profile of a dish? Here are a few things on my list:

[] ANTICIPATION

That moment in the early morning when a chef steps out of bed with the knot of mixed emotion in his or her stomach is – yes, something that is missed. There is a bit of fear regarding what might be faced when stepping through that back kitchen door, yet at the same time there is always a twinge of excitement about the same. The minute a chef’s feet hit the floor from a restless nights sleep – adrenaline is pumping. After time, this is a highly anticipated feeling. Chefs miss that in 2020.

[] POSITIVE ANXIETY

Anxiety in small doses can be that spark that starts the human engine. Too much anxiety has just the opposite effect, yet if a chef can control it at some level, then anxiety can be used to fuel the energy needed for the day. Positive anxiety can keep us on our toes, helping us to prepare for the expected and the unexpected. This positive anxiety gives the chef a bounce in his or her step – the bounce of confidence that the kitchen team depends on. Chefs miss that in 2020.

[] THE SPIRIT OF WINNING

It is always more than “how you play the game” – every person ultimately wants to win at whatever they attempt. Some put the time and effort into helping that happen, while others may simply hope that it occurs without their active involvement. Chefs tend to put the effort in. When the chef has the winning spirit then it rubs off on the team, setting the stage for achievement. To a kitchen team it is all about the basics – efficiency, great tasting and looking food, a clean operation, meeting the timing demands of orders, clearing the board of orders, no re-fires, no injuries, and happy guests sending back empty plates. This is what the chef and the team work for; this is what brings about fist bumps, high fives, and a smile at the end of service. Chefs miss that in 2020.

[] APPROPRIATE BANTER

There is certainly no place in today’s kitchen for hurtful or inappropriate banter that demeans or makes people uncomfortable, but that harmless banter that yields a laugh or a re-energized staff is simply a part of the environment that cooks and chefs look forward to. Chefs miss that in 2020.

[] INTERACTION WITH STAFF

Walking through that back kitchen door – the chef grabs a cup of coffee and invests the time to walk the kitchen and connect with prep cooks, breakfast line cooks, bakers and pastry chefs, dishwashers, and service staff. This is the first opportunity to touch base and connect with the people who are at the heart of a restaurants success. Throughout the day it is the sometimes serious, oftentimes light conversation that pulls chefs and cooks alike into the environment of the kitchen. People are interesting, they all have stories to tell, they all bring something special to the team, and they validate why a chef chose to do this work for a living. Chefs miss the level of this interaction in 2020. Instead of a smile and a resounding “yes chef” response from cooks, 2020 brings a look of uncertainty and a less than enthusiastic “yes chef”, wondering what tomorrow may bring.

[] INTERACTION WITH GUESTS

Many chefs look forward to the opportunity to occasionally “ walk the dining room” and interact with guests, engage in short conversations about food and maybe a suggested wine pairing, check for those smiles of satisfaction from diners, and feel the energy of the front of the house. Somehow this just doesn’t work when everyone is wearing a mask and looking over their shoulder for a person walking too close. Chefs miss that in 2020.

[] BEING FOOD CENTRIC

Of course chefs always worry about food cost, training, labor cost, vendor dependability, and the next health inspection, but what brought a person to this position is a love of food and a desire to learn more and create for the plate. When menus become utilitarian out of necessity, when a diminished labor pool is the driving force for menu design, and when survival is the focus – that food centric energy is in short supply. When the focus is not on creative food that is the signature for the restaurant – chefs miss that.

[] A FULL DINING ROOM

One of the measures of success that is most exciting in restaurants is looking through those swinging doors and seeing every table full of happy guests – eating, raising glasses, and laughing with reckless abandon. This is what we strive for in restaurants. When tables are 6 feet apart and capacity is limited due to pandemic protocol – that dining room energy is far less noticeable. It is really difficult to relax, enjoy a dining experience, celebrate, and laugh when the fear associated with Covid is always present. Chefs miss those full dining rooms in 2020.

[] THE ENERGY AND BEING ON THE EDGE

That knot in a chef’s stomach, that nervous energy that a line cook feels just prior to those first orders clicking off the POS, that uneasiness that servers experience just prior to opening the restaurant doors is, when in control, very similar to that anticipation felt before an exciting football game, cross country race, or rush to fill the stands at a rock concert. Sure it is a nervous energy, but it only feels dangerous until the gates open, the kickoff starts the game, the starting gun is fired, or those first orders signal – let the fun begin. Chefs miss this in 2020. It may exist, but at a much more subdued level.

[] THE SMELLS, SOUNDS, AND TASTES OF A KITCHEN ON A PATH TO SUCCESS

As that chef walks through the back kitchen door and grabs a cup of coffee – it is always the familiar sensual experience that reminds him or her that there is no other job more physically and emotionally rewarding than cooking. The smell of breakfast bacon, fresh baked bread, Danish pastries, caramelizing onions, and roasted garlic somehow completes the aroma package with the nutty, deep roasted smell from a cup of coffee. The sounds of sizzling pans, clinking of plates being stacked from the dishwasher, cooks barking out warnings like “behind” or “hot”, and the resounding cadence of the POS printer and expeditor barking “ordering, fire, or pick-up”, are part of the music of the kitchen. When this is muted or felt to be less indicative of a warm kitchen – then- yes, the chef misses that.

[] THE FREEDOM TO CREATE

Menus need to be streamlined, costs need to be watched very closely, limited staff must be considered, and efficiency must rule the day. Creativity takes a back seat during times of crisis and uncertainty. This is what charges up a chef and when it is lacking then chefs truly miss that.

[] KNOWING THAT TOMORROW WILL BE BETTER THAN TODAY

Most significantly, when the restaurant business is healthy then there is little energy invested in worrying about your position or that of your team members. The impact of the pandemic is intense and all consuming. Tomorrow is always a question. Whether it be new protocols, or expenses that can’t be met – when tomorrow is uncertain then the chef certainly misses the comfort of knowing that doing things right will take away that fear.

Yesterday is gone, today is challenging, but tomorrow will come and with it will be a restaurant industry that is different, but robust, challenging, and once again – exciting. Today is tough, but reflection and optimism will help us all to chart a course for success. Chef’s should remember the past, miss what is lacking today, but think about tomorrow with a smile of optimism.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

SUCCESSFUL CHEFS – WHAT CAREER KILLERS TO AVOID

31 Monday Aug 2020

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chef success, chefs, chefs new normal, cooks, Keys to success, kitchens, restaurants

team

Rest assured, at some point restaurants will rise up again, clubs and hotels will measure success based on occupancy and food service activity, and the position of “chef” will be center stage in driving sales and measuring profitability. The opportunities for chefs will be viewed again as instrumental and of significant value to owners, and those who are qualified and prepared will have ample career opportunities in front of them.

This being said, some responsibilities will return to where they were pre-pandemic, yet others will work their way into the chef’s bag of expectations. In all cases, there will be a re-shuffling of priorities driving changes to the profile of the “best candidate” for the leadership position in the kitchen. Some of the previous characteristics of chefs and their role will be viewed as less important and some may even not be tolerated in the “new normal”. Now is the time to self-assess and realign priorities. When those opportunities rise up – you want to be ready. Here is a list of career killers in the new normal – now is the time to make the necessary adjustments.

[] OVER-CONFIDENCE/EGO

“I am the best” is more likely to turn employers and teams off. You should not confuse being humble with being weak or lacking in confidence. Chefs can be very confident without putting on an air of superiority. When chefs are willing to listen to others, admit that they still can learn something new, that others may have the right answer to a problem and that those individuals should receive credit for their ability to bring about resolution is the sign of a strong leader. This is where you need to be.

[] POWER vs. LEADERSHIP

“I am the chef” has oftentimes been a statement that points to his or her authority over others. This is arrogant and rarely sets the stage for teamwork and alignment with a common goal. Leaders don’t boast about their authority and never use it for personal gain over another. The power of leadership comes with tremendous responsibility to listen, treat others with respect, study an issue and avoid making rash decisions, and an understanding that his or her role is that of guide, coach, and mentor – not dictator.

woman

[] LACK OF EMPATHY

“That’s not my problem” is a statement that demonstrates a callous approach towards other members of the kitchen or restaurant team. This callousness will do very little to create followers, in fact it will contribute to division and angst among those team members. The environment that is a result will surely drive a wedge between management and staff.

[] POOR COMMUNICATION

“I don’t have time to tell you everything” demonstrates a lack of understanding the importance of taking the time to make employees, vendors, and customers comfortable with your style of management and the decisions you make. Share as much as you possibly can, do it in real-time, and do it because it will build understanding and support. Share your financials, share your challenges with product, share your vision moving forward, share your commitment to excellence, share what you know and share what you don’t – it’s all important. This is what brings a team together and firing on all cylinders.

[] LACK OF TRAINING

“You should know how to do that” is an attempt to relinquish responsibility for a team members skills and abilities. When you hire a person you own the responsibility to inform, train, teach, and improve their abilities. The best operators seek to find ways to help employees improve even if it means that they eventually move on to find other opportunities as a result. Training will create a business brand that attracts the very best.

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[] POOR DELEGATION

“I will make those decisions” is a proclamation that only the chef knows how to make the right decision. You are foolish if you think that the hundreds of decisions that are necessary on any given day in the kitchen must rely on your abilities alone. The best chefs train effectively so that others can make solid decisions without the chef’s active involvement. Delegation of responsibility must include the responsibility for decision-making and the authority to make those decisions. This is how a team operates.

[] INADEQUATE FOCUS ON COST

“My responsibility is to produce great food”! Yes, this is true, but it is even truer that a chef’s responsibility is to make great food that yields a profit. The most talented cooks without a focus on financial acumen will not be enough to sustain their position. Chefs must be number crunchers and advocates for analytics that allow them to make the best financial decisions for the restaurant. This is your job!

[] LACK OF TRANSPARENCY

“That’s beyond your pay grade” is a statement that hides something that will make an employee question your actions. If labor cost is too high in comparison to sales – share it with your staff. If food cost is too high, then share it with your staff and talk about possible solutions. If ownership is not satisfied with the product that is leaving the kitchen, then share this with your staff. If your job is becoming overwhelming, then share this with your staff and show how they can help to relieve some of this stress. Trust me when I state that your employees will respect and appreciate this, and will rise to the occasion if they feel that you trust them with business information.

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[] DO AS I SAY, NOT AS I DO

“I am the chef – just do as I say. My position is different that yours.” This is the most effective way of losing the respect of your employees. You need to set the example for others to follow. Be there, work as hard as they do, demonstrate your passion for excellence, look and act the part of a professional, help others when they need it, and support your staff in the way that you would like to be supported in your role.

[] AVOIDANCE OF SCENARIO PLANNING

“I can’t predict those things” is an admission that you are not prepared. The chef is expected to have answers and solutions. This goes with the turf. The best way to solve problems that arise is to prepare for them. Yes, experience will certainly help – if you have faced a challenge before then you understand how to react, but scenario planning is a more effective way of avoiding those challenges before they arise. Plan for a power outage, plan for that crippling snow storm, plan for the delivery that doesn’t arrive or that missed event that shows up unexpectedly, plan for new competition, plan for sick employees and plan for that new menu that doesn’t hit the mark. How will you respond if any of these realities knock on your door? Planning is the best antidote to chaos.

Take the time NOW to look at yourself and build a portfolio for success in the future. Be the kind of chef that is in demand, a chef that attracts followers, a chef that helps a restaurant succeed, and a chef prepared for the new normal.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

KITCHENS CELEBRATE DIFFERENCE

29 Monday Jun 2020

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celebrate differences, chefs, cooks, culinary, kitchen diversity, Kitchen equity, kitchens

Painted in Waterlogue

It has always been my experience that kitchens are the great equalizer. Sure, I know that the environment of a kitchen can sometimes be tough and abrasive, it’s hot, humid, noisy, stressful, fast paced, and somewhat unforgiving, but…..all that being said – the kitchen is a place where who you are and what you believe in is far less important than what you do and how well you do it. I always found it gratifying to walk into a kitchen and find diversity of color, ethnicity, language, age, gender, sexual orientation, and certainly culinary heritage. It is this melting pot that makes a kitchen buzz, that gives it personality and character – that makes each day an experience.

Personally, I have never understood blatant prejudice that is based on erratic and unfounded perceptions that an entire race, gender, nationality, age group, or for that matter any group of people identified as different can be problematic or not worthy of respect. Where does this come from? Is it based on geography, historic bias, generational bias, or isolationism? Is it based on one groups feeling of superiority over another? Or is it some level of genetic tendency towards hateful action?

My answer is: spend time working in a kitchen. We are all different and that is precisely what makes us interesting and important. In kitchen life is pretty clear – there is loads of quality work to be done, work that requires attention to detail, process, knowledge of ingredients, an educated palate, and a commitment to doing things right. You are either in tune with that, or you are not. If you are then no one cares about how different you may be, they care that you can do the work and do it well. Later on that “difference” can come into play as a real positive. It is that difference that brings history, traditions, cultural nuances, new flavors, and great systems ideas to make a restaurant kitchen function better and continue to exceed customer expectations.

angry chef

Spend a day in the kitchen and learn how those differences won’t separate you, but rather bring you together. To all chefs and operators – know that it is important to promote and support the environment where differences are celebrated and the unifying factor remains: can you do the job, are you willing to do the job, are you willing to learn how to improve, and will you strive for excellence in executing that job. Know that there are limitless opportunities to create a learning organization when we celebrate differences.

[] HIRE COMPETENCE AND POSITIVE ATTITUDE

I know that this is already your method of operation, but it’s always an important reminder that what matters is their ability to do the job, willingness to learn how to do the job, commitment to excellence, and their all-in positive attitude. Everything else really doesn’t matter. It doesn’t matter if they are black, white, or brown; it doesn’t matter if they are young or old; it doesn’t matter if they are male or female, gay or straight; it doesn’t matter what their ethnic background is; it doesn’t matter if they are Republican or Democrat, Liberal or Conservative; it just doesn’t matter – they are all part of the kitchen team and united they stand, divided they fall.

[] BUILD A WORK ENVIRONMENT OF RESPECT

As a chef or restaurant operator you set the tone for how the team treats each other. When you show respect for all people, regardless of how they might be different in some people’s eyes, then your team will emulate that approach. If some try to poison that environment of acceptance, inclusion and respect then they really do not belong on your team. There should always be the expectation of excellence, but never tolerance for exclusion or disrespect.

[] TRAIN TOWARDS, INSIST UPON, AND SUPPORT EFFORTS TOWARDS EXCELLENCE

Some may try to cloud your approach by inferring that your respectful approach towards all is somehow a sign of weakness, but when you show respect while still building an environment of excellence then, and only then will you be able to build a winning team. Be respectful, but never drift from that insistence of excellence, that commitment to training toward excellence, and that support for all who view that as their obligation and motivation.

chuck and mickey

[] BE FAIR AND EQUITABLE IN YOUR APPROACH

Respect begins with being equitable in your approach towards others. Again, when you focus on – can you do the job, are you willing to learn how to do the job, are you passionate about excellence, and do you view this commitment as your stake in the ground, and when you measure everyone on these attributes – then you will have built a real team.

[] DO NOT TOLERATE DEMEANING INTERACTIONS IN YOUR KITCHEN

You are in control of the environment that people work in. When you tolerate ANY disrespect towards others, when you turn your eyes away from inappropriate, or hurtful behavior towards others, when you write it off as “that’s kitchen life”, or “you need to toughen up”, then the team will begin to crumble. Stay in control, teach and observe, call out poor behavior, and demonstrate through your own actions what the right approach should be.

[] LISTEN TO DIFFERENCES AND BE WILLING TO LEARN FROM THEM

When you build an environment where people in your organization feel comfortable talking about their differences in a positive manner, when they are willing to share and you are willing to listen, then so much can be gained. We each bring powerful history, traditions, observations and ideas to the team if the team is open to what is presented. Build that environment and the whole organization can benefit.

changin

You know how this can work, if you have been in a kitchen you will understand the outcomes of both a positive and negative work environment, you know that the responsibility starts at the top, and you know that a person’s attitude and behavior is, to a large degree, a reflection of his or her environment. Set the stage for excellence, inclusion, and opportunity.

For those who struggle with acceptance – I encourage you to work in a kitchen – a place where a melting pot of differences helps to create a perfect dish.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

“This is a moment that will shape us for generations to come”

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

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OUR DAILY BREATH: POST COVID KITCHENS – GET READY

13 Monday Apr 2020

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, kitchens, Kitchens after Covid-19, restaurants, safety and sanitation in kitchens

Restaurants will get the green light at some point. When the data demonstrates that the virus is somewhat under control – whether that is the end of May or later, we all know in our hearts and minds that things will be different. Guests will not likely flock back to our operations, there will still be a considerable amount of trepidation, especially since pre-vaccine life will still include the threat of virus transmission. We also know that the health and safety regulations for restaurants will change significantly as we make every attempt to keep the public and our staff safe and at ease.

Along with giving serious thought to how restaurant concepts, menus, and methods of delivery will need to change – we must prepare for the regulations to come. Preparation for this inevitable change is the best way to set the stage for post Covid success. Here are some of the likely changes (I don’t have a crystal ball- but I would be willing to bet that these will come to fruition):

[] VENDORS AND DELIVERIES

There is little guarantee that the product that is received at the backdoor of our restaurants is free from virus. It has already been stated that Covid-19 can live for a period of time on the surface of cardboard and there are numerous opportunities for asymptomatic individuals to come in contact with food before packaging (especially produce and animal protein). Let me be clear that there is NO INDICATION at this time that the virus can be spread through food.

It would surprise me if there were not an effort on the part of the Public Health Service and state Departments of Health to require, or at least strongly urge, restaurants to discard all cardboard packaging and thoroughly wash and sanitize received food products before they enter the production kitchen of restaurants. Lexan containers will be in high demand, as restaurants no longer store food supplies in the boxes they were delivered in.

[] PRE-STORAGE AREAS REQUIRED IN NEW KITCHENS FOR WASHING AND SANITIZING OF INCOMING PRODUCTS

I would anticipate that new kitchen construction code will eventually require a “pre-clean/sanitize” area in receiving areas with sinks, adequate stainless table space, storage for Lexan containers and dry racks to be used before food items as well as floor and wall surfaces that can be pressure washed and sanitized frequently. This only makes sense to help control future outbreaks.

[] RECORD THE PROTOCOL

It is very likely that the Public Health Service will contemplate development and implementation of product and people sanitizing before entering production kitchens. This may take some years before fully implemented, but I can envision similar protocols to what is found in industrial food production facilities – think meat processing plant processing along with the record keeping of these standards.

[] A NO CARBOARD REQUIREMENT FOR KITCHENS

We have become use to recycling our cardboard on a daily basis, but it may soon be required to eliminate that packaging before food and other supplies enter a food production space or storage.

[] EMPLOYEE ANTIBODY TESTING AND VALIDATION

All indications are that it will be some time (at least until a vaccine is developed in 12-18 months – hopefully) before we can safely move about without the level of concern and preparation that is in place now. The only surefire way to move back to a more normal life is to verify that individuals have the antibodies that will allow them to do so. Dr. Fauci has already stated that an antibody test will likely be available in a week or so and will be ramped up to produce the quantities needed. Is it too much of a stretch to envision a federal, or at least state-by-state requirement for people to have some type of validation that proves they have the antibodies that would deem them relatively safe – especially for healthcare and foodservice workers? In some states it is already a requirement that foodservice employees have a validated test for Tuberculosis before they are allowed to handle food.

[] PERSONAL TEMPERATURE CHECKS AND LOGS

Just as probable will be a requirement in certain industries for employees to have a validated body temperature check before they enter a place of work and that these records be maintained or even submitted to a higher authority on a regular basis. This only makes sense (already required in most healthcare facilities).

[] SERVESAFE REQUIREMENTS FOR ALL EMPLOYEES

In some states – ServeSafe or something comparable is required of all foodservice workers. Wouldn’t it make sense that this becomes a requirement of all foodservice workers? How long before this becomes a Public Health Service mandate?

[] MASKS REQUIRED

It is highly likely that the first requirement once we are allowed to re-open restaurants at some level are that all food handlers (maybe even service staff) wear a protective mask. Of course, we need to have enough masks available to purchase first.

[] HAND WASHING TRAINING

“Wash your hands” has always been a mantra in restaurants of all types but have we been thorough in our training? Do people know and practice the 20-second aggressive wash protocol every time they wash their hands? Do they use gloves when required and do so properly? Do they feel too confident with gloves to invest enough time washing their hands as well? Hand washing will become an even more critical standard in restaurants.

[] REQUIRED OUTSIDE LAUNDERING OF UNIFORMS

Many restaurants require uniforms but leave it up to employees to launder their own, many wear their uniforms to work rather than change on premise, and many restaurants fail to have any consistent sanitary uniform policy. Expect that this will eventually change (for the better) and expect that outside laundering and sanitizing services will be expected (except where restaurants have their own laundries). Gone will be that favorite T-shirt as a uniform of choice, unwashed shoes, baseball caps, or cargo pants and shorts.

[] WORK SURFACE SANITATION PROTOCOL AND TESTING

In kitchens of a certain size it may make sense to develop a new position that focuses on pre-cleaning and processing of food before it enters the production space, strict oversight of hand washing and sanitizing of work services and equipment, employee personal temperature testing and documentation of all of the above, maintaining antibody validation records, etc. Basically, you may want to make future plans for an infection control person on your staff. Is this a stretch? I don’t think so.

[] VERY STRICT HACCP ENFORCEMENT

HACCP (time temperature tracking) has been creeping up on restaurant operations for a few years and will become the most critical safety/sanitation issue in the future. Those logs and follow-through must become second nature.

[] NEW PROCEDURES FOR CLEAN DISHES, FLATWARE AND GLASSWARE

How will we ensure that the service ware that restaurants use is free of contamination before menu items are plated and delivered to a guest? Someone will push for stricter controls on this – be prepared to see a plethora of new equipment designed to accomplish this goal.

[] MORE FREQUENT HEALTH INSPECTIONS

We can all expect an annual, unannounced health inspection (more if there is a registered complaint or previous issue), but in the future there will likely be a push for more interaction with your local health department. It could take a variety of forms – one full inspection, and others to check on critical issues, or required periodic classes that at the very least – chefs and managers will need to attend.

[] WORKSPACE REQUIREMENTS FOR NEW KITCHENS THAT FOCUS ON SAFE DISTANCES BETWEEN EMPLOYEES

The typical design of a restaurant leads to the smallest amount of kitchen space to accomplish the job – leaving more space for revenue generation out front. It is likely that code requirements in the future will state that a certain amount of space per anticipated kitchen employee is standard. This could allow for future distancing of employees to prevent asymptomatic spread of a virus.

[] UV LIGHTS IN COOLERS AND STORAGE AREAS

At some level, ultraviolet light does help to control the growth of bacteria. This may become a standard lighting requirement in food storage areas.

[] A NEW VERSION OF SANITIZERS FOR POT SINKS AND DISHWASHERS

Bleach or iodine solutions are the standards for sanitizing pots, pans, and work surfaces in kitchens. I would anticipate a new family of sanitizing agents that can protect against bacterial transmission as well as current and future viruses.

It would seem likely that some or maybe all of these changes are in our future. It won’t happen overnight, but we all realize that the health and safety of our guests and employees is (should be) our primary concern. So – it makes sense to plan for change in this regard.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

OUR DAILY BREATH: CHEFS ROUTINES – HOW IMPORTANT ARE THEY

04 Saturday Apr 2020

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chefs, kitchens, restaurant change, restaurants thriving after Covid-19, restaurateurs, routines

tony and I

We never really understand how much we depend on our routines until we are forced to break them. People are creatures of habit and it is those habits that give us comfort, provide us with direction, and help us to function as we are programmed to function. Are routines beneficial? Is there value in breaking those routines? The answer lies in how we respond to involuntary change.

Structure is important to a chef as it aligns with our obsession over mise en place (organization) and how it defines the operation of a successful kitchen. This structure is established over time and is dependent on how an individual was trained and the level of organization that surrounded him or her during this training phase. Once conditioned – a chef has a very difficult time breaking out of a routine. We typically wake at a certain time, follow unconscious steps (coffee, shower, catch up on news, maybe exercise, dress, and off to work) and plan on walking through those kitchen doors at precisely the same time every day. Once there – a secondary routine kicks in with a walk thru of the kitchen, grab another coffee, review daily food events, walk thru coolers and storerooms, touch base with prep and breakfast cooks, and then set-up that list of tasks for the day. Rarely do we break from this pattern, and when we must our day is always a step behind. Routines are important down to how we sharpen our knives, set-up a workstation, fold our side towels, and prioritize our work. So, it is safe to say that our routines define us to a large degree.

Suddenly, our routines no longer apply and the current crisis has left chefs without that comfort zone that help their approach towards the daily chaos. We are now left with a looming question: “Are routines useful in time of crisis and if not – what is the alternative?” Your restaurant may be closed or maybe it has shifted to take-out and delivery only. In either case business as usual is a thing of the past. Your staff is down to a skeleton crew, or maybe you are left holding the fort alone. The future of your operation and for the matter the future of restaurants overall is in question and your routine, your safe place, your dependable organization has not caught up to this dramatic change. Where do you begin, what direction should you take, what possible objectives can be put in place to move from uncertainty to a driving mission?

One of the realities of a routine is that it can be limiting – leaving individuals without a way to zig and zag and change direction with any level of enthusiasm and energy. Chefs are not unlike any other professional in this regard – athletes, carpenters, musicians, bankers, doctors, nurses, shop owners, and military personnel all function most effectively when they can depend on their routines. They may be able to transition over time to a new routine, but when it changes overnight they can easily find themselves lost and directionless. You may be able to physically prepare for crisis, but mentally and emotionally find yourself like a ship without a rudder.

Routines can, in this manner, paralyze even the best managers and operators. At a time of crisis what you cannot depend on is comfort. Dramatic crisis is un-nerving and damn scary. How leaders act at these times defines how effective they are at their jobs. Everyone else in an organization will seek to lean on leaders when crisis strikes – this is when they are most needed. Others expect that leaders will be ready, willing, and able to carry the torch and set the pace for change that is required. If a leader is so wrapped up in the need for routine that he or she fails to respond quickly and efficiently to an immediate need then the entire organization suffers. This is where we are today.

We have had nearly a month to feel lost and confused over broken routines and expected outcomes. The situation is apparently not going to self-correct and real leadership is still floundering. It is time to start being leaders on the micro scale – “What can you do as an individual owner, operator, or chef?” Our routines will not re-appear for quite some time – if ever, so what’s next?

When Napster began offering music for free in a manner that addressed a changing market some record companies chose to fight this illegal activity and ignore the changing market, while others saw an opportunity to flip the industry in a different direction. When the Netflix model of mailing DVD’s to its subscribers was faltering some change advocates decided to expand their model by creating their own content and focusing strictly on on-line digital subscriptions. When retail industries maintained the comfort of storefronts that required customers to travel to them – amazon recognized that the convenience of on-line shopping was going to upset the routine of shopping – the rest is history and now all other retailers are struggling to catch up. This is the restaurant industry’s amazon moment. Routines will not win this battle to survive – only unencumbered freethinking and immediate action will help us to survive and once again thrive.

Over the past few days I have presented the need for IDEATION and SCENARIO PLANNING – this is not a choice – the restaurant business does not have a choice. THIS IS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR LEADERSHIP to inspire others to rise to the occasion and embrace an opportunity for re-invention.

Forget the comfort of routines – we need to take action now. Far too much time is being dedicated to survival without enough discussion about next steps. Yes, we need to help restaurants and displaced restaurant employees who are in need today, but that alone will not leave us in a position to return and be viable businesses in six months or a year from now. We need leadership action, leadership creative thinking, dramatic re-invention, and a vision for the restaurant business after Covid-19.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Now is the time for future thinking

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

OUR DAILY BREATH: A CHEF’S WINDOW TO THE WORLD

29 Sunday Mar 2020

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chefs. cooks, kitchens, restaurants

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It’s day 14 of a Covid-19 voluntary lockdown. Aside from a trip to the grocery store and an isolated morning walk now and again, I have been a prisoner of my home. The same is true for my family in different parts of the Northeast. We communicate daily either by text or FaceTime – once per week via Zoom Meeting. The rest of the time is spent finding things to fill in the gaps. All of my consulting client work is on hold since they are closed and also on lockdown. It is starting to sink in – this is going to be a long road – hang on.

I stare out the front window on occasion and watch the sporadic cars go by on a once fairly busy road through town. I wonder – “Where are they going?” Do these drivers have a destination, are they healthcare essential workers, police on the way to a shift, firefighters, grocery store employees, pharmacists, government officials, or are they simply claustrophobic residents driving around town just to see something different? What are they missing most, where would they be today if not required to shelter in place? My how the world has changed over these past two weeks. How long will this last – will we return to normalcy or is this what we can expect for a season or more?

I miss the kitchen. I haven’t worked there in some time, but the four decades that I did have burned lasting memories into my subconscious. I remember the routine – I relish it now. I remember the crazy, dedicated, passionate people – I miss them always. I remember the organized chaos, the adrenaline, the stress, the uncertainty, the dinner rush, and the arguments with vendors – I miss all of that too.

The sounds of a morning kitchen coming to life – the buzz of compressors, the clank and whir of the exhaust fans, the driving staccato of knives hitting cutting boards, the sizzle of steaks on a char-grill, and the sound of fish searing in a sauté pan – these are sounds that stimulate all of the senses at once. I miss the bark of the expeditor, the demands of the service staff, the rough and tumble language of the line cooks, the sound of an occasional wine glass hitting the quarry tile floor and smashing into hundreds of pieces, and I even miss the ticking of the POS printer as order, after order adds to the anxiety of the cooks. What I truly miss is the smells of the kitchen: the smell of fresh brewed coffee, a veal stock simmering in the prep kitchen, bacon pulled from the oven, fresh baked artisan bread, the intoxicating aroma of steaks on a grill, and the constant background smell of onions and garlic – this can’t be replaced.

It’s funny how the intensity of the kitchen would allow every cook to forget, at least temporarily, all of the outside life challenges that they face. The kitchen was (is) a safe zone from life’s problems. At least when you are in the heat of it, you are able to concentrate on what is in front of you – this is comforting, and even with the pace of the kitchen, it feels safe.

Only those who live it will understand what I say. Only those individuals who find that the people of the kitchen are brothers and sisters will know that this place of “work” is really a safe place for them, a place where they find purpose, find like-minded individuals, and find the strength that is sometimes hidden behind those life challenges faced otherwise. This is where cooks and chefs belong and they know it. This is their home away from home, a place filled with craziness and confidence, a place where they can be comfortable in their own skin and proud of what they are able to do. I miss this.

Staring out the window – I wonder what other cooks and chefs across the country are doing right now. Without the pressure of absurd timelines, without the need to perform magic on a grill, in a pan, or plating on the line; and without the demands of a full dining room – what are these cooks and chefs doing right now?

The missing paycheck is looking over their shoulders, the empty refrigerator and pantry is gnawing at their conscience, and the uncertainty of tomorrow is very frightening – but, what they are likely most concerned with is the separation of team and missing a kitchen space that can no longer be their safe haven. I look out the window and wonder.

My time in the kitchen as a chef is long gone although my work continues as an active consultant, but when my business slows to a halt I turn my thoughts to cooks and chefs who depend on those kitchens to make them complete.

We all feel that this will end, we don’t know when, but we bide our time by thinking about a return to life as we knew it, life in our kitchen safe havens. If only we had an understanding of when. Looking out the window can be depressing, but hope springs eternal as they say, and that feeling that it will end and we will return keeps us going. When I see those cars driving by I wonder how many are filled with cooks and chefs coasting through town and waiting for the day to come when they can walk through those kitchen doors and hear, see, smell, touch and taste the life that they relish once again.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

The Day Will Come – Keep the Faith

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

CHEF’S: CONDITION YOUR TEAM AND CHANNEL THEIR ENERGY

12 Wednesday Feb 2020

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Chef mentors, chefs, cooks, kitchens, Professionalism

mick and joe

CHEF-to-CHEF,

So..you made it! As a property chef you have reached one of the pinnacles of your career – having paid your dues and likely worked very hard in a variety of properties until demonstrating the right mix of skill, knowledge, experience, and temperament to hold the lead position in a busy kitchen. Congratulations!

So..now what? With the title comes a basket full of new responsibilities and challenges that will likely weigh you down for years to come. It’s a damn hard job – one that is full of twists and turns, joys and sorrows, successes and failures, and even a handful of unexpected opportunities. The chef is not just the leader of the kitchen, he or she is the leader of people, and as such you must act the part – all of the time, day in and day out, and when you want to as well as when you don’t. These responsibilities come with the job – embrace them.

As a leader of people – you have an opportunity, and to some degree – a responsibility to help to mold your staff into not just competent cooks, but also productive, successful, and happy members of society. It is an opportunity to “pay forward”, recognizing that your success rests on the shoulders of many – now it is your turn to do the same. It is also, from a self-serving standpoint, an opportunity and a responsibility to take on this role in an effort to attract, inspire, and retain a competent team.

The most effective teams are made up of people who are dependable, willing to learn, focused on doing their jobs well, supportive of their peers, and happy both on the job and when they are not. So, what can be done? What are your opportunities? Where can you begin to “pay forward” and help to mold those who call you “chef”?

If we begin with some basic understandings that a competent, happy, and confident team member is one who is physically, mentally, emotionally, and even spiritually healthy –then the following list of opportunities could easily apply to your new job description:

[] EXERCISE AND HEALTH:

One of the greatest gifts that you can offer another human being is a path towards better health and wellbeing. Do we (chefs) have any obligation to guide staff members towards this goal? A healthy employee is an energized employee, an employee who feels good about themselves, and this will, without a doubt, impact their work and their engagement with the rest of the team. Guiding individuals towards better health through exercise, at any level, is self-gratifying as you begin to witness the changes that take place in each engaged individual.

Be an advocate within your restaurant for a benefit package that includes exercise. Instead of those shift drinks and a small end of year bonus – arrange for employee memberships at a local gym. Offer a weekly yoga class for your employees, sponsor employee involvement in local 5K runs or power walks. Convince your restaurant to organize a softball or pick-up basketball team, or even install a few pieces of weight training equipment in the basement of your business. Anything that gets your employees to work those muscles, stretch those limbs, and breathe in some fresh air will pay back tenfold.

[] DIET AND HEALTH:

Cooks notoriously eat poorly (at least at work). Unlike the passion they may show for the food they prepare for guests – food to a cook is oftentimes viewed as quick fuel to help them push through another service. It is common to see a less than inspiring staff meal consumed while standing up and leaning over a garbage can or picking at a few pommes frites or cookies from the pastry department.

As a chef – your commitment to staff meal is a true opportunity to set the tone for service, engage your staff in a moment of conversation and mutual appreciation for good food, and help create a pattern of good nutrition that can define a commitment to good health. Make those staff meals a celebration of this, a celebration of food, a celebration of staff as family, and a celebration of the relationship that well prepared food and the time to enjoy it has on body, mind, and soul. As chefs we are the gatekeepers for educating everyone about the relationship that food has to health.

[] FINANCIAL MANAGEMENT:

We all understand that there is a problem with the work done by seasoned professional cooks and the amount of money and benefits that restaurants offer for this work. We need to collectively work on this issue and find a fair solution. At the same time, many of these individuals have a real difficult time managing their limited resources and planning for the future.

As a person who has worked through this and risen to the position of chef, it is likely that you are in a much better financial position than your staff. Offering them advice, helping them budget their funds, and finding resources for them to address their financial concerns is another opportunity for you to invest in your staff and give them a reason to relish where they work.

[] EDUCATION:

Employee retention happens if staff members are compelled to stay because the employer invests in them. The best thing that you can do for your cooks is to consistently work at making them better at their job. When their skill set and knowledge base improve then so does their worth and their personal brand. Yes – a well-trained and educated employee has the ability to move elsewhere, but that is what makes you and your restaurant attractive to a steady stream of new cooks.

The best chefs invest in a cook’s in-house education, and even help those same employees find ways to engage in a formal education. Take pride in building exceptional cooks through your active support.

[] MEMBERSHIP:

Some may find membership in organizations to be ineffective and un-necessary, but I have always found that there is much to gain from feeling a part of something larger than what an employee does day in and day out. Camaraderie, structure, representation, an opportunity to build a network of professionals and mentors, and the chance to validate one’s own skills is paramount to building pride.

Committed chefs and restaurants recognize this and support a cook’s interest in membership in organizations like The Chef’s Collaborative, Slow Food, The American Culinary Federation, Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, and The National Restaurant Association.

Painted in Waterlogue

[] DISCIPLINE IN LIFE:

Begin by understanding that most people actually respond well to standards, organization, and the discipline to be consistent, professional and to complete tasks correctly. Part of an education for life that you can offer cooks is to hold them to the highest standards, be consistent, and set the example in this regard. Whether it is how they look, act and interact, approach their tools, follow through with proper methods, or assemble a plate of food for the pass – discipline leads to great results and a way of approaching any job that they do for you or others.

[] THE POWER OF MUSIC, ART, AND HISTORY:

A balanced cook is a person who has the opportunity to be exposed to the inspiration and healing nature of art in all forms. Talk with your cooks about music, physical artists, great books, and the history behind the profession of culinary arts. It is important to their outlook on life.

musicians

[] PROFESSIONALISM:

Grooming, uniform, respect for others, dependability, work ethic, honesty, cost consciousness, and respect for the ingredients that cooks work with – the best cooks approach their craft as consummate professionals. As a leader and a mentor you owe it to your employees to show them what professionalism means, how it is applied, and why it is important to the operation and to their brand.

[] CAREER MENTORSHIP:

Every career cook needs a person who is willing to serve as his or her mentor. Be the person who guides the cook along, points out his or her errors in performance and shows them how to improve, the person who will offer honest critique and be there to provide advice when requested. Be the leader who is willing to listen and not judge, but point out their errors in judgment. Be the chef who is always there (even after they leave your employ) to answer the phone and take the time to be that guide on the side. This is the kind of chef that people want to work for.

Painted in Waterlogue

[] CONFIDENCE BUILDING:

When you engage in all of the above a cook’s confidence will grow, his or her pride in the profession will increase exponentially, the ability to perform at consistent peak levels will result, and their allegiance to you and the restaurant will help to create effective ambassadors for the future of the restaurant.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

BE THAT GUIDE ON THE SIDE

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.chefcharlescarroll.com

A CHEF WHO GETS THE MESSAGE RIGHT

11 Saturday Jan 2020

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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Chef Charles Carroll, chefs, Communication, cooks, culinary, kitchens, Podcasts, restaurants

chuck

Two of the most significant issues facing businesses today are RETAINING good employees who are so difficult to find and MAXIMIZING the productivity and efficiency of those same employees. Ample research has been done pointing to the most significant culprit behind these issues – POOR COMMUNICATION! According to Big Picture Learning – “A 2014 survey by About.com found that the top three reasons for leaving an organization were communication related: a lack of direction from management, overall poor communication, and poorly communication constant change.” Furthermore, they concluded that: “People look for new opportunities elsewhere when they are not engaged with the vision and the mission of their current employer.”

Sometimes the fault lies with a lack of desire to communicate, oftentimes the problem is the incorrect use of communication, but the majority of time the challenge is that leadership has no idea how to effectively communicate a message in a succinct, timely manner.

We live in a world where numerous communication tools are available and where an overload of ineffective communication abounds, confuses, and even irritates those on the receiving end. Newsletters, bulletin boards, payroll stuffers, email blasts (the average person receives nearly 120 emails every day), and tweets and texts seem to attack our senses with reckless abandon. How are employees going to decipher what is important, what needs immediate attention, and what is simply useless fodder that has little relevance to the work in front of them? Additionally, where is the opportunity for those same employees to engage in the conversation, offer their own input, and see the results of their involvement?

There are many clues to more effective communication that include making your message clear and concise, creating a vehicle for feedback from employees and demonstrating that you actually pay attention to that feedback, and being more strategic so that communication overload is kept to a minimum. But, the most effective way to improve this connection with employees is to communicate through storytelling. When communication is interesting and fun, then it’s relevance is more likely to be realized.

I recently spoke with Charles Carroll – one of America’s more successful chefs and business leaders, about an initiative that he has been engaged with for the past few years. Carroll is the Executive Chef of the River Oaks Country Club in Houston – one of the most prestigious, and busiest, clubs in the country. His accomplishments in the culinary arts are far too broad to review here, but this new project takes his many talents far beyond the kitchen. As he stated in our interview: “This system that we have been developing is a game changer!” Chef Carroll is now engaged in a project that is applicable to any business, of nearly any size. This chef has taken on the challenge of communication and may just have found the answer that business leadership has been looking for.

These are the highlights of our interview:

So with everything that is on your plate as Executive Chef of one of the busiest clubs in America, author, public speaker, and ambassador for initiatives within the American Culinary Federation and the World Chefs Association – why did you take on the monumental task of developing a Podcast?

“After writing my third book The Recipe – a story of loss, love, and the ingredients of success, my book partner John David Mann recommended that we connect as a guest on a total of 60 podcasts to promote the book. I was willing to do whatever it took, so we did. After the fifth or sixth interview I was thinking – this is pretty cool I think I want to develop my own. Two months later – The Recipe Podcast, Celebrity Secrets – was born.”

What are your goals with this medium of communication?

“Well, it started as a hobby, but soon gained a lot of attention. We did four on location shows to include two ACF Conventions and the World Chefs Congress in Malaysia. After that we started to attract sponsors as it became more serious. We now have a very cool studio that has allowed us to stream the shows on YouTube.”

Who do you see as your audience?

“We have two different shows: The Recipe Celebrity Secrets, and The Recipe Unplugged which is more on the comedy side with guest comedians. So we capture many chefs and people in the hospitality field as well as individuals who just want to kick back and laugh.”

How will you measure success?

“We can monitor how many listeners we have so we work hard with promotions to keep the audience numbers high. It is important that our sponsors are happy. Also, with all of the interesting chefs that we have as guests, we are able to expose them to sponsor products – many of our guest chefs have, as a result of the show, hired or contracted with our sponsors. It’s a win, win.”

It is my understanding that you are going to use this model to create a communication tool for businesses of all types as they seek new ways of interacting with their employees. How will you translate a culinary business model to fit in other types of environments?

“YES! We are so excited to have started a service called: My Company Radio. I was involved in consulting for a company that has 4,000 employees in 14 states. They asked me how they could communicate and educate them on a weekly basis. That was what started the wheels turning. So, we developed a system where we take messaging from top level leadership and surround it with motivation, inspiration, education, employee recognition, and turn the message into an entertaining show sent to their entire team. Now, the weekly message, full of pertinent information, is entertaining as well as informative. Employees can’t wait to hear the next show.”

What is your vision with regard to this?

“We currently have several clients including private clubs, an oil company, and distribution vendors. We are also engaged in conversations with hospitals, police and fire departments, resorts and large hotels. The beauty of the system is that there are only two qualifications: 1) You need to have at least 50-employees, 2) you genuinely care about your people. That’s It!”

“Let’s face it, when there is a challenge or mistake in our business, the vast majority of time the source comes down to a breakdown in communication. Now, we are making communication fun, attractive, convenient, and easily accessed through your smart phone.”

It has been said that the most common complaint by employees in any business is a lack of, or lack of accurate communication between leadership and employee. Is it your goal to present a way to fix this?

“Absolutely, Our system is so easy to use and downloads on any smart phone. We have some of the most sought-after experts contributing to the shows with topics pertaining to motivation, inspiration, celebrity fitness, Fortune 500 consultation, meditation, and Human Resource Management. Also, another feature we are excited about is allowing employees to have direct communication back to top leadership through the show. Now, front-line employees have a safe environment and conduit direct to the decision makers.”

Put on your future glasses and talk about what this business model might look like in five years considering all of the lightening fast changes in technology.

“To be honest, I think this system is a game changer! The days of employee newsletters that nobody reads, email blasts that never get opened, or teleconferencing that only a few can take part in are over. This system allows employees to listen on their time, while at the gym, driving to work, grocery shopping, or boarding a plane. Most of all – with our company inspirational presenters, we consider the show a gift of enrichment. I believe this model can become a standard of communication for any company, no matter how technology allows it to evolve in the future.”

At a time when so many companies struggle with finding, motivating, and retaining employees – it only makes sense to invest in the appropriate tools that will connect staff members with management and leadership in a way that is honest, timely, and effective. It may just be that Chef Carroll has found the answer.

To connect with Chef Carroll and his portfolio of contemporary communication tools – use the following links:

MY COMPANY RADIO

www.mycompanyradio.com

THE RECIPE PODCAST, CELEBRITY SECRETS

and THE RECIPE, UNPLUGGED

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com – BLOG

WALK A MILE IN A RESTAURANT WORKER’S SHOES – PART ONE

05 Friday Jul 2019

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dishwashers, kitchen unsung heros, kitchens, line cooks, prep cooks, restaurant work

rest 2

Sure – every person’s job can be challenging at times and the good, the bad, and the ugly is a fair way to describe nearly every career choice, but looking in from the outside rarely gives and outsider a realistic view of another person’s challenges. As a whole – restaurant work is difficult. At times restaurant work can be discouraging and heartbreaking, while other times many would agree that it’s the best job on the planet.

It is unfortunate that some people who lack an understanding of “what it takes” may view what we do with a shrug of the shoulders and even a demeaning thought, but it is even more disheartening when those who work in the field cast a word or thought of distain or even contempt for others who share similar space within the restaurants walls. Thus, I feel that it is important to paint a more accurate picture of each person’s job, the skills required, and the challenges faced.

PART ONE:
LINE COOKS, PREP COOKS, AND PEARL DIVERS:

The kitchen hierarchy was established long ago based on the military model of rank and responsibility. The lower the rank, the lower the level of respect. A private is an entry-level person who gets his or her feet wet by doing the tasks that no one else cares to do. In the chain of command, the private is looked upon as a lower skilled individual who is an easy target for anyone with even the smallest amount of additional seniority or rank. This is the space occupied by the dishwasher in most kitchens, making he or she the brunt of nearly everyone’s poor attitudes and lack of respect. Yet, isn’t it interesting that when a dishwasher fails to show up for work – the kitchen seems to be in disarray? Here are some “walk in my shoes” reflections from a typical dishwasher:

second cook

“My job is a dirty, thankless one that places me on the bottom of the restaurant pecking order. Everyone thinks they can do my job better than I can; yet no one really wants to take it on. I work in an environment that is just as hot as working on the line with the addition of serious humidity. I work in everyone’s dumping ground and all of that talk about mise en place seems to not apply when they avoid scraping or properly stacking pots, pans and dishes. Line cooks may help each other out, but they rarely grab a stack of clean plates and move them to their home.

The incredible camaraderie of the kitchen ends when it comes to the dishpit. You never see the dishwasher invited to grab a beer after work with the team. In fact, I can usually walk into work and never hear a hello or receive a high five for a job well done. Most will never view my job as important to the guest dining experience, but try serving your beautiful food on a plate that doesn’t sparkle, or pouring that $100 bottle of wine in a glass with water spots. There isn’t (or least it doesn’t feel that way) any real respect for what I do and yet you scratch your head and wonder why there is so much turnover in the dish area of a kitchen. Keep in mind – given the opportunity, most dishwashers would enjoy learning something about food, moving into prep some day, or even building the skills necessary to work the line at breakfast or lunch and beyond. Dishwashers are your next generation of cooks waiting to be trained. Oh, and by the way – we are responsible for one of the most expensive pieces of equipment in the kitchen and one of the most valuable inventories (china, glasses, flatware).”

PREP COOKS:

Prep cooks, for some reason, lack the sparkle of admiration for their work – yet, in many cases they are involved in more serious cooking than the most proficient line cook. The breadth of knowledge required to be an exceptional prep cook is nearly as expansive as that of the sous chef or chef. Prep cooks are the ones who make it possible for line cooks to shine, and as such, should be revered by the line as their best support team. Yet, far too many restaurants fail to give real credit to the prep cook and his or her skill set. Her are some “walk in my shoes” reflections from a typical prep cook:

Kris

“I show up to work each day – maybe sometime close to the arrival of the breakfast cook. I pull down my prep list clipboard and shake my head at the breadth of work, and mind-numbing quantity of mise en place. I set-up my cutting board, prepare a sani-bucket for cleaning, sharpen my knives and get to work. Sometimes I even impress myself with the knife skills that I have mastered. I challenge any line cook to beat my accuracy and speed. I look at the list and prioritize my work based on the effort and time required of each task. Browning bones and caramelizing mirepoix for stock (need to start this early on), trimming shanks and short ribs, and searing and starting the braise that will take most of the day to prepare; cutting, portioning, and trimming steaks for the line; fabricating whole fish for fillets and saving the bones from whitefish for a fumet; preparing tonight’s soup du jour, and making numerous salad dressings; trimming and blanching vegetables; turning potatoes; preparing prime ribs for roasting; making popovers and au jus for accompaniments; peeling and deveining shrimp; pushing pommes frites through the grid; and clarifying butter for the sauté cook – oh, and receiving deliveries, rotating stock, dating and labeling everything, and checking orders for quality and quantity. This is my typical day.

LINE COOK:

As a line cook you receive much of the glory – yours is the position that everyone loves to watch. You swagger in at 2:00 for your intense display of symmetry and grace, but it is my work that makes your moment of glory possible. How often do you take the time to thank us, give a thumb’s up, reflect on the skills that prep cooks have, and marvel at how much we get done? How often do you simply complain that it wasn’t enough, or you could have done it better? You probably could do our job, but it would mean that your adrenaline rush would be put aside, your swagger would be diminished, and your self-described status in the kitchen might suffer. I respect your organization, speed, fine-tuned palate, and artistic plate presentations, but know that without us, you would never shine as bright.”

cooks

Early in the afternoon, line cooks arrive. These are the visual rock stars of the kitchen – the cooks who have the opportunity to finish menu items, show their artistic skills with beautiful plate presentations, and fine tune seasoning to meet the expectations of the chef. They often times have better tools than anyone else, talk the language of the kitchen, and enjoy the dynamic of teamwork leading to victory every night. Sounds like a great gig – but what you see is not always rosy.

“Why does every guest think that the chef does the cooking? Customers are in awe of the chef in his or her pristine whites walk through the dining room, talk with tables about the menu, and offer a suggestion for a complementary wine or a great dessert. For some reason, they envision this same person putting together each plate for a bustling dining room. Hey, I’m the one who executes the chef’s ideas, I’m the one with the fine tuned palate that knows how to bring out flavor, and I’m the one who put that work on art on the plate. The chef might wipe the rim of the plate and add a fresh herb as it leaves the kitchen – but, in reality, it’s all me.

Things may seem calm in the dining room, but in the kitchen we work in a pressure cooker of time, heat, cadence, flames, sharp objects and a fragile symmetry that could go off track at any moment. The sound that the POS printer makes is like water torture with each drip driving deeper into our skull. No one else in the kitchen feels the looming fear of the unknown (which station will get pounded tonight, when will the dining room fill up and flood us with orders, how long will my mise en place last, how many orders can I keep organized before I lose it?). If something goes wrong – we get the blame – not the prep cooks, not the servers, sometimes not even the chef. All fingers point to us. Have you ever lost control of your situation – you know, that point when you become the deer in the headlights without any clear idea of where you are and what you are doing? Well, I have felt that way many times and it’s not a comfortable place to be. When it works, the job is invigorating, exciting, dynamic, and fun. When it goes sideways, this is a soul-crushing job. Walk in my shoes.”

You bet – your job is challenging and I certainly would admit that I could not do what you do, at least not at the same level, but before you point fingers and chastise my role in the dining experience – walk a mile in my shoes.

The next article will focus on service staff and restaurant management – walk a mile in their shoes.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

COOKS AND CHEFS – BELIEFS AND INITIATIVES THAT SHOULD UNITE US

10 Monday Jun 2019

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Tags

angry cooks, chefs, cooks, kitchens, pride in work, restaurants

Lately, I have read quite a few posts from angry cooks and chefs as they lament the job requirements, poor wages, lack of life balance, questionable work ethic of young cooks, and demands placed on them by inconsiderate bosses. Like everything else in our “in your face” world driven by the open social media platform, I seek to find ways that people might find common ground. So, in the case of cooks and chefs I compiled a list of beliefs and initiatives that we should all be able to agree on. There is no need to respond, this is just food for thought for all who share some frustrations, but cook because it is what they were meant to do.

[] WE ARE PROFESSIONALS

If you want to be treated as a professional, then it is essential that you look, and act as such. This means that you take every part of your career seriously: your uniform, your tools, the ingredients that you work with, your interactions with other employees, your respect for the chain of command, the way that you apply the foundations of cooking, your mise en place, your commitment to standards, and how you plate your food.

[] SANITATION ABOVE ALL ELSE

Serious cooks and chefs know that they have an ethical and legal responsibility to understand the importance of food safety through proper sanitation. This becomes second nature to all who cook because it is what they were meant to do.

[] CLEAN AS YOU GO

A part of understanding sanitation is to know how to clean and practice the right methods for cleaning in a relentless fashion. Serious cooks enjoy cleaning and know how critical it is to the whole experience of dining for the guest and to their effective and efficient organization in the kitchen.

[] WORK HARD – EARN FAIR WAGES

Every serious cook wants to be paid a fair wage for the work that he or she does. Every professional chef understands that serious cooks should be paid this fair wage and that part of the chef’s job is to ensure that fair wages are paid to those cooks. When this is not the case then every cook should seek out an employer who is willing to advocate for fairness. Don’t complain about it – find the right employer/employee match somewhere else.

[] YES CHEF

I understand that people may find a chain of command to be rigid, and I know that there are some chefs who, through their actions, may not seem worthy of respect, but every cook does know that because of the demands of the kitchen, the looming threat of unpredictable changes, the need to have someone make “in the moment” decisions, and the simple need for order – “yes chef” does have merit. Sometimes without this understanding the result can be chaos.

[] COOKING IS A CRAFT

When an employee becomes a craftsperson, then he or she understands that there is a need for knowledge, dedication, respect, and lots of practice. Cooking, in this vein, is no different than the process of woodworking, electrical engineering, plumbing, auto mechanics, or even proficiency with sports. Without the knowledge, dedication, respect, and practice – a cook will never reach for any level of mastery.

[] ELIMINATE MEDIOCRITY

Angry or happy, every serious cook or chef must understand that movement away from how things are done and acceptance of any level of mediocrity demonstrates a lack of passion, a shift away from craftsmanship, and failure of execution.

Painted in Waterlogue

[] TEACH ME WHAT YOU KNOW

If a chef or cook refuses to give back, lacks the desire to help others and share his or her knowledge, then they are failing to live up to what a craftsperson should represent. When you share with others you become better yourself.

[] RESPECT

Every serious cook must show respect for his or her peers, supervisor, ingredients they work with, tools and equipment they use, and the guests they serve. If cooks look for respect from others then they must first give it freely and consistently. Respect includes honesty, consistency, and trust – this goes both ways.

[] SUPPORT, NEVER DEMEAN

Professional cooks and chefs should never demean another human being. Making someone else feel small or less than worthy is one of the lowest acts that any person can participate in. Cooks and chefs should not give one ounce of support for those who demean and should either point out this flaw in others or move on to a property that shows respect for all people.

[] BE DEPENDABLE

Any argument that a cook or chef may have about their employer or the work they do is lost if they do not demonstrate dependability. Showing up on time, ready to work; demonstrating that a task assigned will be completed as planned, and when planned; and showing others that a cook can be trusted – is paramount to success.

chef

[] BE YOUR OWN WORST CRITIC

Few people enjoy being criticized for the work they do. Most will accept critique when it is accompanied by a demonstration on how to improve and void of any vindictiveness; but most importantly and effectively, when a cook has very high standards and is constantly self-evaluating his or her work in relation to those standards, then the result will be constant improvement.

[] DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

Shortcuts may seem to make sense, especially when time or multi-tasking gets in the way; but in operations where the end result is always measured against high standards, those shortcuts will inevitably result in the need to rework a dish, or duplicate prep. If you can’t find the time to do it right the first time, when will you find the time to do it over?

[] BE THE EXAMPLE

All cooks and chefs must realize that the example they set (positive or negative) will set the tone in the kitchen. Issues will always arise, and some things will always seem unfair, but how you deal with those issues establishes the type of professional that you are and the way that you will be perceived. The best examples are those individuals who approach communication and seek resolution through a process that is calm, focused, and professional. Social media is rarely an effective medium for finding any type of resolution to your challenges.

[] PRIDE IN YOUR WORK

Finally, every serious cook or chef knows that any plate of food that leaves the kitchen carries his or her invisible signature. Regardless of the challenges that take place on a daily basis, every plate of food that hits the pass should represent the very best of what you are capable of. Take pride in your work, first and foremost, deal professionally with the challenges that you face, but never lose sight of that invisible signature.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

IS COOKING LOSING ITS COOL IMAGE?

22 Friday Mar 2019

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Tags

chefs, cooks, cool chefs, culinary, kitchens, restaurant work

rest 2

Maybe, the old adage: “what goes around, comes around” is true in the case of cooks and chefs. There was a time when individuals worked in kitchens for one of two reasons – they were either destined to do this work, or they fell into the kitchen out of necessity and grew to love it. Then the 1980’s happened and suddenly it became “cool” to put on those starched whites and apron, sharpen your overly expensive Henkel knives, brush off the dust from that fresh culinary degree, and walk into a kitchen as if you owned it.

Loads of people and events led up to this – the advent of the Food Network, the rise to glory of “celebrity” chefs, an abundance of cookbooks and tell-all novels about kitchen life, and the exponential growth of both restaurants and culinary schools were the culprits. Suddenly cooks were not overlooked, but revered by the press and the dining public. Knowing a chef was a feather in your cap, and celebrating young people pursuing a degree in cooking was a common pastime. Society glorified the position, supported this attention with the tools of the trade, and applauded schools that built beautiful, yet unrealistic kitchens to help young cooks justify the expense of a degree.

By the 1990’s there were somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,000 culinary schools, free-standing restaurants in the U.S. exceeded 1 million, and the restaurant industry quickly became one of the top employers from coast to coast. Television sought out storylines about kitchens – showing in many cases, the jaded underbelly of working in front of a range, and suddenly Americans were spending 50% of their food dollars in some type of restaurant. What a great time to be a cook.

Fast forward 30 years and things begin to change. As the economy grew stronger and unemployment numbers dropped significantly – young cooks who jumped in for the fame and glory found that they could earn more money and pursue a more reasonable lifestyle outside of the restaurant business. The pirate’s life of the kitchen warrior became less appealing; the temperamental chef who may have been talented, but had no business leading others was suddenly faced with “hostile work environment” lawsuits, and the all in commitment that could lead to success was suddenly far less attractive.

Still there were some who entered this business for the right reasons. They weren’t in it for fame and fortune, they didn’t have the funds or see the need to invest tens of thousands in a culinary education, and they were perfectly happy to work at keeping an edge on that $50 Chicago Cutlery French knife. They joined the kitchen brigade because they simply loved to cook, they enjoyed the heat and the sweat, they were passionate about building flavors, they were fine with the commitment as long as they had a chance to work with their team, and they would never call out when they knew that the team depended on them. They were in it to have the opportunity to cook and place a beautiful plate of food in front of the guest. Even if they stumbled into kitchen life because they needed a job – many of them soon discovered that this was what they were meant to do.

In 2019, we find ourselves in a confusing position. Restaurants continue to open in record numbers and guests are dining out, as a part of their lifestyle, at a rate that no one could have anticipated. At the same time, fewer and fewer people are taking the leap into kitchen life and many who did so initially for fame and fortune are changing direction. Much of the culture of the kitchen that focused on a love of cooking and a sense of purpose through teamwork is being tested and restaurants find themselves scratching their heads, blaming a younger generation, scrambling to find an answer, and at a loss with regards to how they will get the job done.

Will this cause the restaurant industry to plateau and move from growth to decline, or will the industry change its methods of operation to accommodate a diminishing labor pool? Is this possibly a good thing? Maybe being a “cool” profession is far less important that being the right profession for those who find it part of their genetic code.

As is the case with many other industries there is a time for correction and adjustment, and in some cases dramatic shift. As an industry we certainly need to reflect on what changes are essential – changes that will recognize and reward those passionate team members who are choosing a career in food for all the right reasons. Change is essential, but many aspects of the business will remain because of the nature of the work. We might think twice about over glorifying hard work and pointing to some of the seedy past associated with the kitchen as something to be proud of.

Culinary schools are going through a major adjustment phase as their numbers diminish, costs are re-evaluated, and their method of delivering a culinary education is scrutinized. Restaurants are faced with similar challenges as they deal with a changing audience, dramatically increasing costs, challenges with lease arrangements, and the monumental challenge of finding, training, and retaining good employees.

Being cool was fun for a while, it helped to increase awareness of the work, and in many cases emphasize the value and talent of those who are serious about cooking. Let’s return to a focus on the food, on fair pay, on attracting people who are truly serious about the craft, and creating a work environment that inspires.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com

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A COOK’S EVOLUTION OF SKILLS AND VALUE

16 Wednesday Jan 2019

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, cooks career, culinary, kitchens

Physically, mentally, and emotionally – professional cook’s and chef’s offer different levels of value as time goes by. To some, there is that uncomfortable feeling that accompanies an aging body – you know – that point in a career when you might feel a bit slower, plagued by aching muscles, and struck with the realization that certain tasks are not your strength anymore. However, those who have a vision of the future know that those tasks that seem less a part of your wheelhouse are now replaced with new skills and knowledge that are likely even more important. Youth has its advantage, but so do age and maturity.

Let’s stop for a moment and place this thought on your mental bulletin board:

“Becoming and remaining a chef can be a lifelong career. Age need not be a deterrent, but rather an advantage.””

Let’s take a look at the ten evolutionary stages of a cook’s skills and value:

[] STAGE ONE: ACCLIMATION

The professional cook begins with a leap into the kitchen. It will likely begin at the sink learning how to keep dishes and pots clean and at the ready. This stage is filled with intrigue and cursory observation of technicians and craftspeople that demonstrate what is possible with time and practice. Many may view this as simply a paycheck and are clear that this is NOT what they want to do with their lives, while a few are instantly attracted to the environment and the people. This, to many, is a pivotal experience that leads to some type of apprenticeship or even an interest in culinary school.

[] STAGE TWO: TRANSITION

Those who move through acclimation will likely find a somewhat structured transition from observer to commis. Likely, the individual in transition will begin as an assistant to a breakfast cook, or maybe an apprentice to the prep cook. The person in transition will learn how to care for, and use knives, become acclimated to the equipment at his or her disposal, start the process of ingredient identification, learn how to follow a recipe or procedure, and begin the process of multi-tasking and acclimation to speed and efficiency. Transition cooks discover the importance of and reason for processes that surround sanitation and safety.

[] STAGE THREE: FOUNDATIONAL SKILLS

Following the introduction to process, cooks – overtime, learn not just what to do, but even more importantly – why they do it. When this occurs then a process becomes a skill, and with time they become confident with those skills. At this stage the cook becomes a true asset to the operation – his or her value is based on an understanding that each cook can be trusted and depended on to perform at a certain level while meeting the quality standards that an operation defines as essential. The movement of the cook at this point might be from prep and commis to a key position on the line – the place where cooks can become center stage players – finishers of those dishes that define the restaurant – a position of honor and pride.

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[] STAGE FOUR: SPEED AND EFFICIENCY

Repetition is as critical to a cook’s value as is the knowledge of the skill itself. Time is money and the quality of food is always dependent on the time factor. When a cook is able to meet the quality standards of the operation and perform with speed and efficiency – then others view him or her as essential to the effective operation of a restaurant.

[] CONFIDENCE: STAGE FIVE

With time and effort, and with the development of speed and efficiency – comes confidence. Confident cooks allow the operation to further trust that they will be able to thrive in their position. In many cases – cooks at this level are ready for promotion that may lead to roundsman or even sous chef level roles.

[] EXPERIENCE WINS: STAGE SIX

The most universally valuable skills are drawn from experiences (both positive and negative). The longer that a cook is working in restaurants, the more situations they are familiar with. Each time that a cook transitions through an experience – he or she adds a valuable tool to his or her essential kit. Experience, and in particular – experience in quality operations, add real value to a cooks resume. Employers place value on the experiences that will serve their operation well.

[] KNOWLEDGE WORKER: STAGE SEVEN

There is a difference between skill and knowledge. Skill relate to the ability to complete a task with speed and efficiency as expected by those involved. Knowledge provides an opportunity for the cook to truly understand how and why the skill results in a positive outcome, and how to identify what to do when that result is not what is expected. As an example – when a cook understands why a particular ethnic cuisine includes a traditional process or ingredient then he or she is in a better position to replicate the flavor profile and experience of producing a dish. Knowledge workers are those who can move from sous chef to chef. This is a skill that is expected of that position.

mick and joe

[] PLANNER & PROBLEM SOLVER: STAGE EIGHT

As a chef, the individual must be an astute manager of what is taking place today in the kitchen, but even more importantly a person who can effective plan for tomorrow, be able to think in terms of how to promote the restaurant brand, how to build a product (menu) that defines how the restaurant will be perceived, and know how to act and react when anything threatens the expectation of that brand and product.

[] TEACHER/MENTOR: STAGE NINE

To ensure that the restaurant holds true to the defined philosophy, the expectations of the brand, and the financial performance that is required – the chef’s value comes from hiring the right staff, training and teaching those cooks in a manner that is consistent and measureable, and comfortable in the role of employee mentor and role model. The most talented cooks may not serve the operation well as a chef if they are unable to perform appropriately as a teacher/mentor. Chefs are highly competent cooks who have the ability to lead others into battle. When a chef performs contrary to the rules of competent leadership then the operation will eventually crumble from within.

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[] RACONTEUR & PROTECTOR: STAGE TEN

As a chef transitions to the twilight of his or her career, the role that he or she plays – matures. The role of the near retirement, or retired chef is that of storyteller, and protector of the traditions, standards of excellence, service attitudes, and commitment to sharing that define the senior guard. It takes many decades of work to acquire the knowledge that is required of the raconteur (storyteller). This is the time when a chef becomes a sage.

Along the way, cooks acquire new skills and may find that their effectiveness at some previous skills diminish. The cook’s knowledge of why and how continues to improve, and the experiences that are part of the process continue to build confidence and competence. The value of a transitioning cook to constantly increase and should never be viewed as a process of diminishing ability, but rather the adoption of new skills and knowledge that could only result from this consistent career movement.

PLAN BETTER –TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

**Photos: Thanks to Chef Joe Faria and his team at Quail Valley Country Club, and Chefs Michael Beriau & Walter Zuromski for one of those experiences.

RESTAURANTS ARE A MICROCOSM OF ISSUES FACING THE COUNTRY TODAY

08 Thursday Nov 2018

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, kitchens, restaurants

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This article is inspired by a story related to the youngest freshman U.S. representative Alexandria Ocasio – Cortez. Putting aside your individual political bent – she comes to the House of Representatives from a history of positions working in the restaurant business – so she automatically has street cred in my book. From her vantage point she felt connected to a very large segment of the U.S. population – a segment that feels first hand, the issues that face our country today. It made me think just how representative our fellow workers are of the country and the core challenges that are faced by everyday Americans.

As I look into the eyes of those hard-working, passionate, and occasionally maligned individuals with whom I worked for so many years, I see the real America, the country where opportunity exists, but where individual challenges can seem overwhelming. Here is what I see and what representative Cortez brings to the forefront of discussion:

[] IMMIGRATION:

I don’t know of any businesses more impacted by immigration issues than agriculture and the restaurant business. To some, the answer to our labor challenges is to simply pay employees more – then Americans would be more inclined to select jobs in those fields. In these industries where the product and service offered is very labor intensive and product prices have reached their peak – it is difficult to imagine how businesses would be able to increase wages without automation to eliminate a significant portion of the workforce. I think that we would all agree that illegal immigration is wrong, and those who want to make America their home must do so in the correct manner – but in the meantime, farmers and restaurateurs are faced with reducing services and in some cases closing their doors due to a lack of an adequate pool.

[] LIVABLE WAGES:

The lack of a livable wage is one of the effects of an industry that finds profitability extremely challenging. Simply throwing money at the challenge is not the long-term answer. The restaurant industry needs to take a hard look at its operational model and adjust to one that makes it possible to pay a fair wage for the work done. If left to government, then restaurants will be burdened with mandated wage increases. The real solution must come from the bottom up. Restaurants need to collaborate with competitors, education, professional organizations, unions, employees and customers to devise a workable solution.

[] HEALTHCARE:

FACT: Everyone needs a fair, affordable, and functional healthcare plan. The restaurant business, like many other profit-starved industries has simply ignored this fact for generations. It is time for business and government to find a solution that won’t starve the individual and bankrupt the country.

[] ADDICTION:

Addiction to drugs and alcohol is prevalent throughout our society. It no longer strikes at just lower income segments of the population – every socio-economic group faces this issue. However, in the restaurant business we have brushed this very significant problem under the rug for as long as I can remember. Is addiction an effect or a cause of societal problems – is our industry, as an example, with the work and social challenges that it creates, partly to blame for a rampant problem that impacts cooks, servers, operators, and owners alike – or does the nature of the business tend to provide a safe haven for those who are inclined to addiction abuse? We all know, first hand, how far-reaching this challenge is. We see it every day in restaurants from coast to coast.

[] EDUCATION:

The restaurant business is the great equalizer. Ethnicity, race, gender, age, size, and educational background have little bearing on a person’s status in the kitchen. The fact that an employee has a bachelor’s or master’s degree in a discipline doesn’t make him or her more or less valuable than the person who never finished high school. As a safe haven for all – the business is flush with people who feel that they have little opportunity for advancement as well as those who feel that they are stifled and unable to utilize the educational chops that they accumulated. To some – restaurant work is a lifeline, an opportunity for a paycheck and a foot in the door – while others view it as a dead end that, out of necessity, is where they plant their feet.

[] FOOD INTEGRITY:

Cooks and other foodservice professionals have a very unique tie to the ingredients they use. Just as more and more consumers are showing concern for the source of ingredients and how those items are raised and handled, the cook depends on quality ingredients that they know are safe and nutritious. The macro issue of food integrity from the source to the plate is of paramount importance to those who make a living while nurturing and adapting those ingredients in the kitchen.

[] CLIMATE CHANGE:

Is climate change something that really impacts the lives of everyday Americans? Is this more of a 1,000 foot issue for politicians and leaders to fret about and analyze? Changes in climate hit home with restaurants as they struggle with the impact it has on product pricing and availability, and how extreme changes in weather impact on customer participation in the restaurant experience.

[] TRANSPORTATION:

With sub standard wages comes lifestyle decisions that are not ideal. So many foodservice employees view owning a car a luxury that they can ill afford – while most of us view the ownership of a vehicle to be an absolute necessity and a sign of our freedom to make daily choices. The cost of car payments, gas, and parking are out of reach for many who wear a chef’s coat and apron. Access to affordable mass transportation is essential for this audience. In areas where this is not available – the restaurant culture suffers.

[] HOUSING:

As a community grows and prospers so too will an abundance of restaurants. Jobs made be prevalent, but if affordable housing is not in proximity then those same restaurants will struggle to find staff. Yes – there is a significant portion of the American population that cannot afford shelter, transportation, and food for their own table. Low unemployment rates are not the sole indicator of a healthy economic climate. Far too many foodservice workers find it impossible to live on the salary from one job and as such wear many hats.

[] TECHNOLOGY:

Shelter, Food, Transportation, Healthcare, and now technology can all be considered necessities for a reasonable life. A person without a personal computer is at a disadvantage. Fathers and mothers who cannot provide web access for their children are crippling their education. A cell phone may still seem to be frivolous, but if a person is to feel connected to society and life that is changing at breakneck speed – then a cell phone is a critical piece of the puzzle. When sub-standard wages fail to provide for any of the critical “necessities” in life then we can’t expect enthusiastic, passionate, committed work to result.

[] SOCIAL MEDIA AS A NEWS SOURCE:

We are more and more aware of the problems with social media and the lack of sufficient controls and monitoring of content – yet, when a workforce is starved for quality education, when time is one of the aspects of life in shortest supply, then that phone that is a necessity also becomes the primary source of information (sometimes accurate, oftentimes less so). Opinions, anxiety, anger, misinformation, short sound bites, and unqualified sources are being driven to those who have little other options than to simply take everything at face value. “If it’s on the Internet it must be the truth.”

[] CLASS STRUCTURE:

Outside of the restaurant “family” there has always been a class structure that is felt, but rarely discussed. As far as we may have come in terms of public respect – working in a restaurant has rarely been a favorable choice for a career in the eyes of those who have never felt the gratification of working with great people, creating wonderful food, and uplifting those who view the restaurant as a place where they can leave behind their challenges and problems and simply enjoy being served.

Yes, a restaurant is a microcosm of the American condition. The challenges of down-to-earth people are evident and maybe even more pronounced through the eyes of cooks, chefs, servers, bartenders, and operators.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

THE IMPORTANCE OF WORK – THE VALUE OF A DOLLAR

18 Thursday Oct 2018

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chefs, cooks, importance of work, kitchens, work and value, Work Ethic

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There are a handful of lessons in life that shine true for everyone, that stand tall as ultimately important for our existence, and that set people on a course of completeness that is so essential. One of those lessons is the significance of work – regardless of what that work might be. Work is important on so many levels and for so many reasons. In particular – the relationship of work to understanding the value of a dollar and the knowledge that pay is recognition for effort, expertise, knowledge, and commitment is so significant and indicative of a person’s character.

“Without hard work, nothing grows but weeds.”

-Gordon B. Hinckley

These relationships go both ways, of course. The individual who learns early on that work is important to them and to those around them, should also be recognized in the same manner by those whom they work for. Effort for pay and proper pay for effort are equally important.

When people learn that there is a need to earn what you make, then there is a different level of appreciation for what they have and the opportunities before them. This may sound like one of those hollow lectures from an older generation, but I am convinced that these words have merit.

The earlier that a person realizes that he or she must put forth the effort to enjoy privilege, then this relationship with work ethic has a chance to establish roots. I applaud those 14 year olds with a paper route, the high school freshman who is excited to sign up for early working papers, and even those even younger who know the relationship between chores and an allowance. I truly admire kids who grow up on a farm and understand that before their day slips into a normal flow – there is farm work to be done. When individuals from a very early age understand that “of course I will work before I play”, then this effort becomes a habit and the habit becomes part of their personal culture.

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When that $500 cell phone is given to a 15 year old as a right of passage rather than something that is earned through hard work and effort, then its meaning as something of special value is diminished. When there is no relationship between what we have and how we worked to earn it, then everything becomes a right instead of a privilege.

So, where am I going with this? Everything in my world eventually turns to a relationship with the food business and this article is no exception. I will not generalize and point a finger at an entire group of people, but rather reference those within many generations since the late 1940’s (yes, this is a somewhat subjective observation on my part – although someone must have entertained a statistical review of this observation) and how they view this work/value relationship. Parents have always felt that they have a responsibility to provide for their family and to set the stage for children to have a better lifestyle than they enjoyed (or suffered through). This is an admirable goal and an understandable responsibility, but to live this goal without instilling a feeling that personal effort is an integral part of this, is a real problem.

When people fail to understand the work/value relationship then their desire to earn a living, to know how important it is to treat the opportunity for employment with respect, the need to find their passion through hard work, and to approach every responsibility with vigor, is diminished. The results are evident in their efforts in school, their level of enthusiasm for finding a calling in life, their appreciation for what they have and what they are able to provide, and their willingness to find a way to constantly improve, is diminished.

The restaurant industry is truly challenged today, more so than ever before. It has always been hard to earn a profit in a business of pennies, it has always been challenging to attract a steady flow of customers and keep them coming back, and it has always been challenging to hit the mark with the right product and service, but it has never been this hard to find and keep staff.

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When restaurants limit their hours of operation, modify their menus, and even close their doors, not because the location was wrong or the quality of their product missed the mark, but simply because they couldn’t find or depend on their staff to show up and give a reasonable effort – then we have a societal issue that is very disturbing. Yes, there are other factors: 3.7% unemployment means that there are more jobs than people and less incentive to work extra hard, the work in restaurants is unusually hard, and the pay is not in line with effort and skill, but I really believe that much of the blame falls on the shoulders of this lack of work/value respect. These problems with the restaurant industry must be resolved – fair pay for effort is essential, but pay alone will not solve this problem.

Those farm kids may not want to get up at 4 a.m. to feed the chickens, and the 14 year olds probably groan when their parents wake them up at 5 a.m. to deliver papers, but they know that the work is there and it is their responsibility to put in the effort. When that effort results in a paycheck or an allowance there is a sense of accomplishment that has real value. Those same individuals at the age of 18, or 25, or 40 will never consider not showing up to work, or arriving late without any remorse. These same individuals in a kitchen will always be ready when those first tickets grind off the POS, and will always give 100% effort with “best effort” quality work throughout the day whether it is peeling onions or reducing a sauce. These same individuals will never punch out without feeling that they earned their pay.

Restaurants need to do a much better job of training and caring for the people who work in their operations. Creating a more realistic work environment, treating people with respect, and paying a fair wage are all significant issues that must be addressed, but the lack of attention to this should never justify a lack of work/value effort on the part of employees. When a property fails to recognize positive effort then the employee is always justified in looking for better opportunities, but when individuals relinquish their responsibility for being dependable and doing a good job, then the problem becomes cultural rather than the responsibility of a property or specific operator.

I am not sure there is a quick fix – the work/value core is a character issue that starts in the home and in the community. This challenge is now societal and has been festering for decades. There should be a relationship between the rewards of living and the commitment to effort. We all share a responsibility for this.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

A COOK’S KNIVES TELL YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HIS OR HER CHARACTER AND COMMITMENT

02 Sunday Sep 2018

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Do you remember that first knife that you called your own? Mine was a 12-inch Sabatier carbon steel beauty that held a razor sharp edge. That knife could slice through vegetables like they were butter, and far too frequently mistook my fingers for a carrot. Still, I loved that knife, sharpened it on a wet stone every day and kept a flat steel close to my side whenever I worked. The carbon steel was not pretty, but I sacrificed that for the edge that I could have used for shaving. Unfortunately, someone else felt that he or she needed my knife more than I did and it disappeared one year. I still mourn the loss of that blade.

There is a unique connection between a cook and his or her knives. We may only use two or three different knives (French, Paring, Boning), but the longer we cook, the more we become obsessed with adding to our collection. It is not uncommon to find a cook carrying a tool box that weighs as much as a sack of onions – filled with specialty tools that may only find a place on your cutting board a few times a year, but they are always close at hand – just in case. How we care for those tools goes a long way toward defining the type of person we are, and how serious we are about the profession we chose.

“We become what we behold. We shape our tools and then our tools shape us.”

-Marshall McLuhan

Here are some of the observations that I have had and continue to rely on as I mentally assess the quality of a cook:

WHAT YOU CAN LEARN ABOUT COOKs BY WATCHING HOW THEY CARE FOR THER TOOLS

RESPECT:

Cooks that respect their knives are more likely to respect those people around them. Their respect for others, however, is determined by how well they care for their own tools. Mutual respect cannot be turned on and off – if you respect your tools then your peers know they can count on you.

ORGANIZATION:

There is a connection – caring for your tools clearly reflects on your organizational profile. When I see a neatly tied knife roll and watch how religiously a cook unwraps that roll and gingerly removes knifes from their appointed slot, I can guarantee that this level of organization and reverence for order will follow as they set-up a work station.

SKILL:

Watch a cook who cares for his or her tools and you can be confident that they know how to use them. A seasoned cook knows that a cared for, sharp knife makes the work of a professional so much more fluid and enjoyable. I guarantee that a person who cares for these tools is a cook who produces those perfect knife cuts, who makes child’s play out of mincing herbs, boning out a leg of lamb, cutting steaks, and drawing a slicer through a prime rib without any effort.

“The expectations of life depend upon diligence; the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.”

-Confucius

OWNERSHIP:

Cooks who take ownership of their tools as an obligation are far more likely to take ownership of the restaurants tools, the ingredients they work with, and the finished product that carries their invisible signature. There is a connection.

CONFIDENCE:

When your tools are at the ready, when they are known for what they are capable of, when the connection between your hand and the knife is definitive, then the cook feels empowered to perform at a high level. The brain may tell the hands what to do, but the fundamental connection between the hand and the knife can be electric. The knife becomes an extension of the hand muscles and the brain that sent the message. A well cared for knife helps to provide the confidence that cooks need.

PROFESSIONALISM:

In every career that relies on tools for performance, there is an understanding that to be accomplished, to be respected, and to be connected to the very best at their trade – you must hold those tools with respect and care for them. The condition of those tools allows you to be part of the ranks of career cooks who wear the chef’s toque and tie on an apron. At the same time, it is not the tool that makes you a professional it is how you care for and respect those tools and others who are part of that club.

PRIDE:

In essence, a cook’s knives are part of the uniform. The uniform that represents professional cooks back to the time of the Renaissance is important to any serious cook. Wearing the uniform and holding that beautiful, closely honed, incredibly sharp knife that sits perfectly in your hand and stands ready to slice, dice, chop, bone, and carve is as significant historically as the double breasted white coat and hounds tooth pants. The cook stands a bit taller when the uniform is clean, pressed, and starched and shows a high level of confidence when that roll bag is opened to reveal an inventory of cutlery – each with a specific purpose, each razor sharp and at the ready, each gleaming with attention to their blade surface, bolster, and handle. When the cook is ready it is because his tools are also ready.

“Japanese chefs believe our soul goes into our knives once we start using them. “

Masaharu Morimoto

Chefs – when you are preparing to interview cooks for a position in your kitchen, you may want to start by asking them to show you their knife kit. Watch the care with which he or she unwraps that roll bag and how they lay open the inventory of tools. Ask the cook to present a knife to you for inspection. Watch how they present it, maybe with a bit of trepidation since they rarely allow others to handle their important tools of the trade. Look at the handle, the bolster, and the blade; are they impeccably clean? Test the edge – is it sharp and ready for work? You may not need to go any further with the interview – a cook with tools at the ready is a cook that will perform as a professional on the job.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

COOKS – YEP – WE’RE DIFFERENT – SO WHAT?

22 Wednesday Aug 2018

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chefs, cooks, kitchens, we are different

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When will this nonsense stop? How far will it go? Will we reach a point where a job posting states that eligible candidates must be of a certain political affiliation, religion, sexual orientation, or nationality? This era of polarization is incredibly dangerous and divisive. Through all of my years in the kitchen I never, ever felt that what made us different was a roadblock; it was the most important thing that made the work interesting. Certainly what is important is what makes us uniquely the same.

It is difficult to get through a day without dwelling on something that makes us all incompatible. I support this candidate and you support another. I have this belief about how a person should live and you believe another. I am for the environment and you could care less. These are all opinions based on the life environment that we grew up in, the friends that we chose, and the affiliations that somehow were attractive to us. In the end, they may not be who we truly are, they are just expressions based on our current way of thinking. When we view our selves as right and everyone else is wrong we have eliminated the possibility for conversation and open minds. When there are only black and white answers then grey becomes impossible to accept.

When we focus on what makes us uniquely the same then the stage is set for calm and intelligent conversation about current beliefs. Without this common area of agreement we fall into that model of polarization without any room to embrace what is good and valuable in others.

Keep this simple fact close to your heart: no one EVER changed another person’s mind through a Facebook or Twitter post. No unifying effort came about by antagonizing another person for his or her current beliefs. Forget, for just a moment who is right and who is wrong and consider how we might collectively create a forum for reasonable and informed discussion and when that is not possible, simply accept that we are different.

In the kitchen, we all know, that there is a common appreciation for food, cooking, and the teamwork necessary to make a restaurant service work. It is no different in many other professions, but in the kitchen it becomes immediately apparent that the results of a service period is totally dependent on everyone putting aside his or her differences and focusing on the responsibilities in front of them. Everything else, in the moment, pales in comparison; and guess what – it feels good.

When this becomes the overriding common denominator then a world of other opportunities become apparent. I have had, as I am sure most cooks reading this agree, incredible conversations where opinions have become the basis for reasonable and fruitful dialogue. Cooks are anxious to express their differences in religious belief, political affiliation, tastes in food, styles of music, thoughts about education, and a litany of other closely held beliefs. When that common belief in team and work sets the tone then people actually begin to listen to each other. They may not change anyone’s beliefs or opinions BUT all sides begin to appreciate another persons right to think differently. This is what it means to live in a country where individual differences are accepted and even celebrated. This is what has always made our country great and in many cases – worth fighting for. When we lose this freedom to hold onto our own beliefs and intelligently discuss them without reprisal then we have lost everything that sets us up as a benchmark for freedom.

What are we doing? Saluting our flag is not a habit, it is an opportunity to express what we believe in and what makes us great. We are great because we are different and we are different because we are allowed to hold on to and express those differences. This is the definition of liberty. Know that very few countries in the world have this freedom of expression and those that do are more often than not, countries that choose to model themselves after us. What are be doing? If we continue to feed this feeling of polarization – “I’m right and you are wrong”, then we have lost everything.

We have suddenly relinquished our ability to listen and calmly discuss what we believe in and have accepted only those opinions and beliefs that align with ours. Where will this end attitude bring us? If our work and social environment is filled only with those who agree with each other then we will wind up with a stale and uninspired product or service, an unfulfilled relationship and a company or social network that fails to move forward. If we attempt to develop friendships and relationships with only those people who share our political, religious, or lifestyle affiliations and beliefs then how will families grow and become dynamic and inspired? Is this fate too extreme or does it seem like we are headed in a terrifying direction?

What brings us together and what we share in common pales in comparison to what makes us different. The best companies, the most dynamic families, the most fruitful relationships come from an appreciation of difference.

At least in the kitchen I have always felt that differences unite – I only hope that this continues to be the common denominator and that we (cooks, chefs, bakers, dishwashers, and service staff) hang on to this uniquely special environment even in the face of a society more and more content on accepting polarization as the norm.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

CHEFS – THINGS JUST AREN’T WHAT THEY USE TO BE

08 Wednesday Aug 2018

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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change, chefs, cooks, Culinary Arts, kitchens, restaurants

Looking back over the past 18-months it is hard to grasp just how much things have changed in the restaurant world. It made me wonder if all of this change (some planned, some unexpected) is good for the culinary world or not. Having long been an advocate for the importance of change, I find myself, like many others wondering if my logical approach towards the need to move on and forward is still applicable.

“Change can be frightening, and the temptation is often to resist it. But change almost always provides opportunities – to learn new things, to rethink tired processes, and to improve the way we work.”

-Klaus Schwab

The reality is that no matter how much we may advocate for flexibility and a willingness to move in new directions – everyone tends to resist moving away from his or her comfort zone. I have even talked quite a bit about being a traditionalist in previous articles and hanging on to the classic concepts and preparations that still work in so many operations. I have pointed to the need to maintain professionalism and the structure that got us to where we are today and to support the grand history of cooking and the art of food. Am I simply hanging on to the past and contradicting my own advocacy for change? I thought that I should take a hard look at myself and point to the changes – good, bad, and indifferent that we (the people of the food industry) have faced in recent months.

[] THE LOSS OF ICONS:

Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, Antonio Carluccio, Roger Verge, Benoit Violier, and even Antony Bourdain – (just to name a few) all chefs who were prominent in the culinary world, who made a difference and defined their place in food history have passed away in the past few years. Each one helped to define the business of cooking and point to the joys and sorrows of working behind a range. Will their influence survive a new wave of change?

[] THE NEW FACE OF FINE DINING:

Formal fine dining has been dying a slow death for many years, but one could easily promote that in the last few years it finally took its last breath. Sure, there are still a few operations that hang on and even a small number that actually continue to thrive, but the formality of high cuisine has taken a back seat to fun dining with great food. The intense structure to quiet dining rooms and technically perfect service have given way to loud, informal, casual service with food that still carries the mark of excellence. Personally, I think that this was long overdue and truly relish the opportunity to enjoy terrific, well-prepared and presented food in an atmosphere where laughter and conversation are perfectly acceptable. Nevertheless – it is different.

[] THE RUN AWAY SUCCESS OF FOOD TRUCKS:

Some restaurateurs will complain that food trucks break the rules – that they are not encumbered by the challenges of brick and mortar and pay less attention to the “rules of the game” that established restaurant storefronts must live by. Complain if you like, but food trucks are probably here to stay. On the positive side – food trucks are concept incubators and occasionally lead to brick and mortar operations; food trucks are able to overcome the challenges of attracting customers by simply driving to where the customers might already be; and food trucks allow nearly anyone to avoid the high start-up cost of a stationary operation. Finally, food trucks give young culinary entrepreneurs a chance to be creative and test the market with something new. Whatever your position – food trucks are changing the face of the restaurant industry.

[] DINNER THROUGH THE MAIL:

Still one of the primary reasons why people choose to dine out is for convenience and from a lack of understanding how to cook. Suddenly companies like Blue Apron, Hello Fresh, and Magic Kitchen are making it much easier for people to stay at home, build some basic skills, and prepare reasonably good food without the help of a neighborhood restaurant. Who knows what amazon will eventually do with their new Whole Foods Division. We need to wake up to a new, viable competitor.

[] THE TRUTH ABOUT FARM TO FORK:

Farm to Fork should be the standard that every restaurant lives by. It is a chef’s philosophy that demonstrates appreciation for ingredients and their source and respects the flavor of fresh, regional goods. Unfortunately, in far too many cases, Farm to Fork has simply become a marketing initiative that could easily come under “truth in advertising” scrutiny. How many restaurants that claim to be farm friendly, truly are?

[] THE AWAKENING OF CULINARY EDUCATION:

This topic is worth a few hundred pages of discussion – let’s just say that the wave of culinary education serviced by more than 1,000 schools from coast to coast, has hit a wall. High costs and questionable results have put this very important part of the food business in jeopardy as more and more schools close and others struggle to meet enrollment goals. How will we attract and train cooks in the future? Will culinary schools adapt to change and even drive the change that is needed?

[] A TATTOO NATION:

The days of Escoffier are long gone. The time in history when the chef demanded pristine uniforms and impeccable, conservative grooming and (in the case of Escoffier) even required cooks to wear a jacket and tie when they were out in public outside of the kitchen is long gone. The tattoo is a statement of independence for younger cooks and service staff. To a cook, there has always been that feeling of being outside of the norm, maybe a bit of a pirate, certainly part of a niche culture. The tattoo is a way to proclaim something about the person: who they are and what they believe in. Get use to it – this is part of the new kitchen culture.

[] CRAFT BEER ADVOCATE VS. WINE ADVOCATE:

It was often said that a great meal without a great wine was certainly less than satisfying. To many serious diners it would be unheard of to enjoy a meal without the appropriate wine. In America that wine culture grew significantly from the late 1970’s till the end of the millennium. Suddenly, beer became as complex and as sophisticated in it’s own way, as wine. Beer pairing dinners are growing in popularity, beer lists in restaurants are beginning to rival wine by the glass programs, and chefs must now learn how to plan menus with beer in mind as well as with wine. This would have been unheard of just a few decades ago.

[] CHANGES IN KITCHEN CULTURE:

The subservient culture of the kitchen, the autocratic style of management that was prominent from coast to coast, the level of commitment to a career in cooking, and the patience associated with “paying your dues” is crumbling. The joy of working as a team and the intensity of the job may remain, but the cultural structure of the environment is a far cry from what it was a generation ago.

[] END OF THE HOSTILE WORK ENVIRONMENT:

The structure may resemble a military organization but the demeaning nature of a drill sergeant is no longer acceptable in the kitchen. Bullying, public displays of hostility, and relentless inappropriate behavior towards each other is “done”. It’s a different world now and just because you may have worked your way up the ranks in such a hostile environment no longer gives you the right to create that same environment for others.

[] DUMBING DOWN OF THE FOOD NETWORK:

Believe it or not, there was a time when the Food Network was actually realistic and geared towards education and the portrayal of a noble profession. Now absurd shows that pit people against each other in a super market, show cooks tormented by out of control chefs, call untrained people with an apron “master chefs”, and build off a crowd frenzy as others are encouraged to gorge themselves with 10,000 calories while the time clock ticks, have demeaned the business of food and the profession of cooking. There is literally nothing on this network now that is worth watching.

[] THE DEMISE OF THE WORKAHOLIC COOK:

When any cook over the age of 40 says that he or she has paid their dues, they mean that they have forsaken everything in their lives for the demands of the kitchen. They have worked 70-hour weeks as a steady diet and fail to understand people who work only 40 and have weekends off, and they think of little except anything to do with food and the process of cooking. We may have done this and probably still take pride in how we endured, but many younger cooks have little appetite for this lifestyle. This is the reality and we must figure out how we will operate without those who give up everything for the job.

[] OUR LEADER IS A FAST FOOD JUNKIE:

The Office of President is significant in so many ways – one that is often overlooked is how the President can set the tone for the populations habits. When the President admittedly would much prefer a McDonald’s hamburger and Coke to a well executed meal of fresh ingredients accompanied by a perfectly paired wine or craft beer, then the tone is set for a new generation of food consumer. Ugh.

I don’t know – as much as I love this restaurant business and the people who tie on an apron and wield a French knife, things are changing and all of us who have built our professional lives around the traditions of the kitchen are facing a significant wake-up call. While we continue to promote, teach, train, and inspire from a foundation of culinary history, we must also be cognizant of the inevitable changes taking place and more to come. We should never allow a new generation of cooks and chefs to lose sight of the what and why of cooking and it’s proud history, but we may just need to accept that it will soon be time to pass the torch and learn to keep an open mind to change.

PLAN BETTER –TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

DAY ONE IN THE KITCHEN – WHAT TO EXPECT

13 Wednesday Jun 2018

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chefs, cooks, kitchen orientation, kitchens, line cooks

line cooks

Starting a new job is always un-nerving – even more so in a kitchen where production is expected, even on day one. Whether you are totally green and walking into a kitchen environment for the first time, transitioning from culinary school to a live kitchen environment, or simply moving as a cook from one restaurant to another – the first few days can be tough. How do we prepare for these challenging few days of acclimation?

Here are some suggestions that are universally important whether you are starting in a diner, family restaurant, fast food operation or fine dining establishment.

[] GET THE LAY OF THE LAND

It is your responsibility as a cook to find our where and how items are stored, how the equipment works, who to go to for specific needs, how needs are relayed to the person responsible, and the general system of operation that a kitchen relies on day in and day out. This doesn’t mean that you can’t ask questions, but your learning curve should be quick. After a day or two the last thing in the world you should do is ask the sous chef or chef where they store the butter or fresh herbs.

[] UNNECESSARY QUESTIONS ARE NOT WELCOME

There is a commonly used adage that “no question is a dumb question”. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Any question that could be figured out independently by the person asking, any question that contains the obvious answer in its context, and any question that has already been answered before is a dumb question. Take notes! “Chef – do you want those chiffonade vegetables cut the way you showed me yesterday?” Now that’s a dumb question. “Chef, since I have 100 chicken breasts to prepare for service do they still need to be caramelized first?” – no comment.

[] PERSONAL TOOLS ARE VERY PERSONAL

This still remains one of the most important rules in the kitchen to learn – a cook or chef’s personal tools are his or her personal tools. These tools allow that cook to perform at a certain level, they have history, they are an investment, they are cared for and sharpened with a passion typically reserved for relationships with people – DON’T TOUCH THEM, DON’T LET OTHERS TOUCH THEM, DON’T EVEN ASK – STAY AWAY! If you touch another cook’s tools you will encounter the rage of a person who acts as if you inappropriately touched a friend or partner. Respect other’s tools.

[] IT’S ALL ABOUT MISE EN PLACE

Others in the kitchen will judge you on how organized you are, how set your station is, and how well thought out your work system might be. Everyone in the kitchen knows that mise en place is the foundation for success and those who are not organized, not ready – will bring down the rest of the group.

[] CLEAN AS YOU GO

Efficient cooks work clean. You can look at a cook’s station and know immediately if they are capable of handling a busy, stressful night. Good cooks work clean and they take pride in this fact. Whenever there is a spare minute, a good cook is tidying up their station, washing down counters, sanitizing tools, refolding aprons, and taking a visual inventory of their set-up. This is how efficient cooks roll and how they maintains calm during the busiest times of a service shift.

[] WASTED MOVEMENT WEARS THIN ON EVERYONE

Back to mise en place. The best cooks set-up their workstation so that only a pivot step is needed to reach pans, mise en place, towels, wines for reduction, plates, seasonings, and POS tickets. Wasted steps wear your out – plan to avoid them.

[] LET THEM KNOW WHERE YOU ARE

Kitchens are busy, even chaotic at times. Although people should never run, they are walking as quickly as they can. Cooks rarely walk empty handed, so as they move with determination they probably have something fragile, sharp, hot, or wet. Professional cooks always announce their presence to avoid collisions: “behind, corner, hot, heads up, lifting, or knocking when entering or leaving a walk-in cooler – all of these cures are critical steps in keeping a kitchen safe.

[] KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS

It is the cook’s responsibility to know the ingredients he or she works with. Know what they look like, where and how they are stored, what their purpose might be, what their flavor profile is, how to determine level of freshness. Blank stares when a cook asks how to determine the difference between a top round and 109 rib, broccoli from broccolini or broccoli raahb, or cilantro from parsley are a forewarning that anger and disgust are not far behind. Study and inquire early on, but make sure that product ID becomes your new language.

[] KNOW YOUR COOKING METHODS and PROCESSES

Sure recipes are important and should be part of the control systems in an operation that help to ensure consistent costs and quality, however, it is not that difficult to memorize and consistently use cooking methods, as they should be. If you know how to braise- you can braise anything; if you know how to grill-you can grill anything; and if you know how to finish a sauce monte au beurre – then it is second nature to do so.

[] PRIORITIZE YOUR WORK

When given a series of tasks to perform – a competent cook begins by determining the time it takes for each product and/or step, and which item feeds into another preparation. Set your prep sheet up in this manner – make it a habit.

[] RESPECT EVERYONE’S SPACE

People, in any situation, require enough space to perform or feel comfortable. Those same people will fill that space in a manner that works for them. If their space is infringed on then they become less efficient and frustrated and the result is tension and less than stellar performance. When a cook identifies his or her work area then respect it and stay behind your own line of demarcation.

[] WORK FAST, BUT DON’T SACRIFICE QUALITY

One of the critical skills in a kitchen is a “sense of urgency”. There will always be too much work to accomplish in too short a period of time – it still needs to get done. The solution is to organize, prioritize, and learn to work faster. At the same time there can never be a slip in quality or acceptance of mediocre work. Cut faster; learn to multi-task, work from lists, set goals, hustle, hustle, and hustle. Nine times out of ten chefs will state that one serious shortcoming of culinary school graduates is that they don’t know how to multi-task or hustle. Act like your life depends on getting everything done.

[] LEARN THE CHAIN OF COMMAND

The kitchen chain of command (brigade) dates back to the days of Escoffier. The system developed in the 1880’s is still appropriate today. Of most importance is that cooks understand and respect the chain of command: who does what, who is responsible, who to go to in certain situations, and above all else know that in the moment: “Yes Chef” is the only answer.

[] TRUST IS EARNED – IT IS NOT A GIVEN

As a new cook keep in mind that you have yet to earn the trust of established members of the team. It may take time for this trust to occur, but it will only take a second to lose. Trust is based on how you act, perform, and respect others in the moment. Trust must be earned again, and again – every day. Without trust the kitchen comes to a standstill.

[] TAKE NOTES – REMAIN A STUDENT

Keep a small spiral notebook in your pocket. Write down what you learn every day – no mater how small – write it down. How many eggplants does it take to make parmigiana for 150 guests? How much stock does it take to make a quart of demi? How does the chef want the salmon portioned? How is that new menu feature plated? What is the shelf life of fresh round fish on ice? How did the chef determine what to charge for that feature? What does the station map for sauté look like?

[] EVERY PLACE DOES THINGS DIFFERENTLY

You should always assume that what you learned in school or on the job at another operation is a correct way of accomplishing certain tasks, however, “When In Rome – Do as The Romans Do.” A new operation, a new chef, and a new manager – these individuals have their own way of accomplishing tasks, preparing items, and plating dishes. Know that in this operation that is how it should be done. As time goes by you may be able to offer your personal ideas and experiences, and then – feel free. But today you are working in Rome.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

https://medium.com/@tcolicchio/an-open-letter-to-male-chefs-742ca722e8f2

Also: check out my articles on the American Culinary Federation Official Blog: www.wearechefs.com

and… articles for culinary educators on the website for The Center for Advancement of Foodservice Education (CAFÉ) – Gold Medal Classroom – Think Tank

www.cafemeetingplace.com

IN THE KITCHEN: EVERYONE’S DIFFERENT – EVERYONE’S THE SAME

14 Saturday Apr 2018

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chefs, cooks, kitchen diversity, kitchens, restaurants

hen

This story may not be true – but it could be.

“We become not a melting pot but a beautiful mosaic. Different people, different beliefs, different yearnings, different hopes, different dreams.”

-Jimmy Carter

Chef Michel looked around his kitchen and reflected: “What an incredibly diverse group of people who are keeping this kitchen afloat.” The chef knows that what he sees is absolutely true for every other kitchen from coast to coast. When you look past the façade and start to dig just a little bit you see individuals who are just as complex as you, just as unique, just as troubled at times, and just as fulfilled at others.

Andre his sous chef was originally from Montreal, Quebec. His father came from France in the early seventies as an architect. He met the woman who would become his wife while working in a small architectural firm across from McGill University in the city center. She was a barista in a coffee shop while studying psychology at McGill. Andre’s father patronized the coffee shop every morning hoping to catch her eye and start a conversation that might carry him through the day. They were married before she completed her studies and gave birth to Andre shortly after. As was the case with many parents – they had plans for their son, plans that did not include becoming a chef, but Andre grew to become independent and insisted that this was what he wanted to do. He worked as a commis at some great Montreal restaurants including Toque and eventually took two years to stagiere with some great chefs in France before arriving in the States and eventually finding his way to Chef Michel’s New York City hotel kitchen.

Bruno had worked on the line of many New York restaurants since his late teenage years. He began, as many did, washing dishes after high school and quickly fell in love with the kitchen environment. Bruno had no desire to attend college and knew that his family could never afford to send him anyway. Besides, the kitchen seemed just right to him. Bruno’s brother had enlisted in the Marines when be turned 19 and was currently on his third deployment in Afghanistan. Bruno had always admired his brother and felt somewhat lost without his counsel. He hadn’t seen his brother for more than 9 months and constantly worried about his safety. To have some peace of mind Bruno immersed himself in work – always volunteering for extra shifts. When he was cranking out quality food in the kitchen he was able to feel complete and for that time able to put his brother in a safe spot in the back of his mind.

Miguel and Rodrigues were brothers in spirit. They had both come from Southern Mexico – escaping the pressure to move to a life of crime in an effort to support themselves and their families in Mexico. They were poor back at home, but incredibly strong and respectful members of their extended families. They grew up together and had a dream of coming to the U.S. They both wanted to approach the process legally, but found it cumbersome and challenging, so they paid to cross the border and start their journey with illegal documents. Chef Michel took them at their word that their documents were legitimate, but in his heart he suspected that they weren’t. Miguel and Rodrigues were fantastic workers, always showing up on time and never complaining about their duties as dishwashers and occasional prep cooks. They made sure that cooks had plenty of peeled potatoes, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, chopped parsley and snipped herbs, as well as shucked oysters and clams used in the Hotel Bar. Everyone respected these two.

Naomi was originally born in Nairobi, Africa to a family of privilege. Her father was a well-respected doctor who had received his medical degree from the University of Buffalo. He chose to return to his country and operate a clinic for those countrymen who could otherwise ill-afford quality medical care. His daughter was smart and progressive. He knew that she could never be satisfied with the typical life provided in Nairobi and worked his contacts to find a link in America for her to study the craft that she desired – Naomi truly wanted to become a world-class pastry chef. After many months of communication Naomi’s father made arrangements for her to attend the Culinary Institute of America. Naomi was now on her externship with Chef Michel.

Jake was a tough kid. He grew up in Brooklyn, hated school, lived in a small 3^rd floor apartment with his parents, and grew tired of a steady diet of odd jobs, a little shop lifting, and even a short stint in juvenile detention for helping to steal a car. His parents were frustrated with their son and his inability to get his life together. At the age of 17 he dropped out of school and took a job as an assistant breakfast cook in a neighborhood diner. The lead cook – Greta, was a tough as nails Greek woman who took it upon herself to straighten Jake out. She pushed him towards dependability and taught him how to become a pretty decent breakfast cook. After a few short months Jake was able to run a breakfast shift by himself – he loved it! Now 19, Jake had moved on to Chef Michel’s kitchen as a prep cook. For the first time he was given a real chef’s uniform – one with his name embroidered over the pocket. When he moved on Greta gave him his first French knife and with tears in her eyes – wished him well. Jake was learning more every day and felt, for the first time in his life, that he had a purpose and a future.

Jana was probably Chef Michel’s most talented cook. At first she had a bit of a chip on her shoulder because she had already worked her way through a handful of restaurants where being a woman was not an advantage. She had put up with a load of crap from her male counterparts and as such grew a tough skin out of necessity. She put on a good face, but underneath felt abused and totally demeaned by other cooks bullying and sexual innuendo. It would be a few more years before this type of abuse would become totally unacceptable, but for now she was hoping that this new gig would be different.

Chef Michel made a commitment a long time ago to never allow inappropriate conduct of this type in his kitchen and told Jana that things would be different. So far, the chef had lived up to the promise and Jana was really starting to come into her own as a terrific line cook. Chef Michel saw in her – his next sous chef.

Jamal was a young black kid from the Bronx. He was smart and determined. Too many of his friends had taken a wrong turn in life, joined gangs, got mixed up with drugs and scrapes with the law. His cousin, at the age of 15 was shot outside of his family apartment and was left with numerous physical and emotional challenges as a result. Jamal wanted to be successful and needed a chance to get out of the hostile environment that surrounded him. He had attended a Vocational Program in the Bronx that specialized in cooking and as a result found a job working in Chef Michel’s kitchen. The chef took an instant liking to Jamal and started him working prep until last month when he moved an excited young aspiring cook up to the line on the fry station. Jamal was determined to learn and excel – he saw this as his way out.

Maria was a single mom who lived with her mother and seven year old son in a small Brooklyn apartment. Maria had two jobs – breakfast cook in Chef Michel’s kitchen and evening line cook at a restaurant called “Prune” in Brooklyn. She walked two miles to work in Chef Michel’s kitchen each day. She was, in Chef Michel’s mind, one of the best breakfast cooks he had ever worked with. She always arrived on time, her mise en place was impeccable, and the quality of her cooking was only surpassed by her speed. Along with another extern from culinary school she could easily prepare the 150-200 breakfasts every morning. Maria’s mom took care of her son who rarely saw his mom – she never complained but the chef knew it tore her up to be the absent mother.

There were numerous others including Hispanic and Ecuadorian cooks and dishwashers, and a very diverse group in the dining room including Russian and Jamaican servers who were exceptional at their craft. This was a melting pot environment that only required a few important traits – the desire to work hard, be dependable, function as a team, and exhibit a passion for food.

Chef Michel looked around the operation for a few more moments and realized that although each person had a unique story, they all were able to come together as one cohesive unit – a team committed to doing a great job and support each other in the process. They laughed, they high-fived, pushed each other when necessary and always jumped in to assist when someone was in the weeds. Chef Michel smiled knowing that in a kitchen everyone was different, yet everyone was the same in their desire to perform well. This is why he loved the kitchen so much – knowing that everyone has a connection regardless of the unique history that follows him or her.

I want to thank my friend Jeff Wager for sharing a word unknown to me at first: “Sonder” – the inspiration for this article.

Sonder: “the realization that each passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.”

-The Urban Dictionary

The kitchen is the great equalizer where everybody has a purpose and everyone can be a part of something great.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Be Something Special – Be a Cook

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting and Training

COOKS AND CHEFS – WHO WE ARE – WHO WE COULD BE

28 Tuesday Nov 2017

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chefs, cooks, kitchen harrassment, kitchens

Painted in Waterlogue

There are many questions today when individuals involved in a work culture try to define and justify who they are. Times have changed, expectations have evolved, and what was once assumed acceptable has come into question. Not to make excuses, but it was long assumed that ignorance was bliss and tradition made actions acceptable. The following statement was strategically placed on my chef’s office door for as long as I can remember – it was a statement that, for all intents and purposes, tried to explain who we (those who tied on an apron and worked in the kitchen) were and unintentionally justify whatever inappropriate action may have taken place:

“Yes, we can be hard at times, but we are very sensitive underneath. We can receive 99 rave reviews, but it is the one unhappy guest who keeps us up at night. This is the way we are. Food and a person’s reaction to how we prepare it means everything. It is more than our job, it is our life.”

-The Kitchen Staff

Now, let’s be clear – I wrote this and I believed in it (and to some extent – still do). I felt (feel) that those who are career cooks take their job seriously, sweat the details, and strive to prepare great food that makes everyone happy. The problem with this statement, as I now see it, is that it indirectly infers that our actions and personality flaws are justifiable because we care about what we do.

Cooks are a unique breed, and good cooks tend to be eccentric, sometimes moody, and crusty, oftentimes profane, unforgiving, egocentric, and uncompromising in an effort to reach an unrealistic goal of perfection. Chefs, at least in the past, were known to demean coworkers, yell and curse, and portray themselves as all knowing while everyone else need to be subservient to this belief. Of course, there are plenty examples of great kitchens where this is not the case, yet I think that most of us have worked in and maybe even contributed to those hostile environments.

Many cooks have bullied, approached coworkers with disrespect, sexually harassed those few women who really tried to be solid contributors to quality cooking, and made life difficult for far too many who were just trying to do a good job. If you have not been part of this then I applaud your experience in the kitchen, but I would assure those who are reading that this has and continues to happen every day in kitchens across the country. To many of us, it felt like a right of passage – the bullying of new kitchen recruits, the innuendo around women cooks and service staff, the aggressive use of four letter words, and the verbal attack on workers who made mistakes or failed to meet the standards of the operation was all part of the “way it is”.

There is little doubt that this happens in many industries as we have found out in recent weeks, but I am not sure that it is as blatantly accepted at any higher level than in the restaurant business.

Recently, Chef Tom Colicchio wrote an open letter to chefs and cooks calling them out on generations of inappropriate behavior and the need to change. As we struggle with ways to make our industry more attractive to young folks and find a model of operation that helps to retain the best of the best, this environment of harassment must be on the table.

Chef Colicchio’s open letter:

What makes me most proud of my four plus decades of work in restaurants also points to areas within our culture that can no longer be tolerated. It is up to each of us – chefs, cooks, culinary students, faculty members, restaurateurs, dining room managers, and service staff to insist on a different environment that is just as demanding, just as focused on striving for excellence, just as connected with preparing and serving great food, but an environment of support and inclusion. Put aside the fact that this is the law – it is the right thing to do.

Here are some thoughts for cooks and chefs (myself included):

[] UNDERSTAND AND APPRECIATE DIFFERENCES

What makes us different makes each of us interesting and valuable. If we take the time to listen and appreciate this difference we will grow as individuals and as cooks.

[] PERFORMANCE HAS NO GENDER

Cooking is not a man’s job; being a chef is not a man’s job; becoming an effective restaurateur is not a man’s job; service is not a woman’s job – in all cases performance is the differentiator. We need to stop identifying a job by gender and simply look at who is qualified through performance to be effective in any role.

[] PERFORMANCE HAS NO ETHNICITY

I have always taken pride in the diversity within restaurants where I have worked. The role of ethnicity in a restaurant kitchen or dining room is sometimes very hard to define. Diversity makes any business stronger and rewarding for all involved. Ethnicity on the other hand is not a requirement in connection with the restaurant concept. Do Italian restaurants need Italian born cooks, a Chinese restaurant – native Chinese? As is the case with gender in restaurants it is all about performance.

[] OPEN MINDS LEAD TO GREATER KNOWLEDGE AND UNDERSTANDING

When a restaurant is allowed to be a melting pot of ethnicity, race, gender, age, and beliefs it will become a place where every player stands to constantly learn and grow as an employee and a person. The chance to build an understanding of what makes people different and what makes them the same is a priceless gift.

[] TREAT OTHERS AS YOU WOULD LIKE TO BE TREATED

This time tested statement has never been truer. Good people who look at every situation to interact with others in this fashion are better for it. If we all stopped before we bullied, harassed, belittled, or mocked another and asked: “How would I feel in this situation” I am confident that the answer and the action would be positive.

“There is ample data to show that the first two weeks on the job are the most critical for young cooks. This is when they are most vulnerable to criticism, belittlement, disrespect, and feeling uncomfortable in their new surroundings. Some simply choose to walk away and look for a more accepting work environment.” Can we (the restaurant business) afford to turn people away who might very well become excellent contributors to success?

[] THERE IS A WRONG TYPE OF UNCOMFORTABLE

There is validity to the statement that if people are to grow we need to put them in a position where they are uncomfortable with their skills and abilities. This “push” will quite often help people to take a leap of faith and push themselves to exceed expectations. This is an “uncomfortable” that can have real benefits for everyone involved. There is, however, an “uncomfortable” where people tend to feel inadequate, abused, and in a position to do or say something that goes beyond their personal life “compass”. This is not acceptable and bears no positive outcome. This is against the law and simply wrong. Forget that this may have been the way it WAS in restaurants – it can no longer be the way it IS.

[] RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT

This is what it comes down to – respect your fellow employees for their gender, race, ethnicity, age, personal preferences, and beliefs. When you look to your left and to your right you will see a fellow employee who is in a position to work collaboratively in the process of achieving a goal. They either have or have the potential to gain the skills necessary to help achieve this goal and as such are equal to you in the moment. You deserve their respect and they deserve yours.

[] EQUALITY MEANS EQUALITY

We have all likely been guilty at some level of exercising discrimination, yet at the same time the restaurant business remains one that opens many doors for any entry level employee to reach the pinnacle of a career. We may not even realize what we have done in the past: thinking that women are best in the bake shop or garde manger; older cooks are not suited to work on the line; non-English speaking employees are automatically scheduled for dishwashing or prep where we never need to worry about helping them improve their ability to communicate in an English speaking kitchen; or women make the best servers and men make the best managers. These are all assumptions based on nothing but false perceptions and maybe a bit of insecurity.

Just as the dishwasher in a restaurant might very well be a restaurant owner in twenty years, so too might any employee thrive in any position that we train them for and give them an opportunity to give their all.

This is a time for the restaurant industry to take a hard look at itself and collaborate on the creation of a new dynamic, one that will prove to be attractive to the very best workers, workers with a desire to perform and contribute to success. In 2018 and beyond we should all look at us and check our approach to these challenges.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

THE LINE COOK’S ADRENALINE RUSH

11 Saturday Nov 2017

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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Tags

adrenaline rush, chefs, cooking, kitchens, line cooks, restaurants

Painted in Waterlogue

What is it about working the line in a busy restaurant that is so attractive to cooks? Why, with all of the challenges that a career in the kitchen brings are people, especially those who are younger, willing to set those challenges aside for the experience of standing in front of a battery of full-throttle ranges? The answer goes beyond the enjoyment of creating, beyond the pleasures derived from cooking, and far beyond the experience of working in a team – the answer is the adrenaline rush.

“A feeling of excitement, stimulation and enhanced physical ability produced when the body secretes large amounts of adrenaline in response to a sudden perceived or induced stress situation.”

-Collins Dictionary

Those who have worked in this environment in the past or who tie on an apron today know exactly what I am referring to, but to those who are scratching their heads – here is a depiction of what it is like for many line cooks.

THE WAKE UP

It would be nice to say that cooks can separate their work from the rest of their lives, but the intensity of line work typically weighs pretty heavy on those who take on the role. Knowing the shear amount of work required to “get ready”, the unpredictability of how the night will go, and anticipation of the pressure that unfolds as tickets start spitting off the POS printer is difficult to push out of your mind. Wake-up brings with it an active mind as well as a few knots in a line cook’s stomach.

PREP AND ANTICIPATION

The adrenaline begins to build on the way to work as a line cook wrestles mentally with what might lay ahead. Walking through the back door and changing into hounds-tooth pants and white jacket a cook begins the quick pace of station prep. Staple items were likely prepped during the early shift: stocks, clarified butter, braised items, roasts in the oven, vegetables peeled, shrimp peeled, steaks cut, etc. What is left is all of the finish and detail work: sauces, mincing herbs, blanching and shocking vegetables, seasoning pans, blanching pommes frites, picking scallops, trimming steaks, setting up station maps – details, details. The line cook likely arrived before the shift began just to stay ahead of the game. The 3-4 hours before service fly by quickly as anxiety builds. The last hour is when the adrenaline kicks in allowing the cook to pick up the pace and feel that high similar to when those endorphins kick in for distance runners.

CLUTCH TIME

Those last few minutes before the dining room opens are filled with a mix of doubt and gratification: “Will I be ready? Yes – I’m loaded for bear and ready to rock out!” That mix of angst and being set is likely similar to what a professional football or baseball player feels just before running out on the field.

PRE-MEAL TENSION

Those last few minutes are taken up with the chef checking stations and tasting sauces to those last minute questions from service staff during pre-meal. Line cooks that are ready can sense a bit of calm come over them while those who still have details to attend to are really on edge.

THE GAME BEGINS

Watching a line at this point is interesting – cooks are on their toes, maybe pacing or bouncing a bit, tongs are clicking together, large amounts of water or Gatorade are being consumed, and side towels are folded and refolded. Everyone is waiting for the sound of the printer tapping out those first orders. A few minutes after the restaurant opens the orders begin to trickle in – the line is ready, on it, locked and loaded, anxious, willing and able. Everyone knows the pace will quicken soon, but that adrenaline friend is waiting just below the surface, ready to kick into full battle mode.

THAT IMPOSSIBLE WINDOW

Typically around the 7 p.m. mark restaurants are really humming. This is prime time, the real deal, a time when all hell breaks loose and every cook knows that there is a fine line between a well-orchestrated evening and disaster. Adrenaline is a requirement now – remember – the cook has already put in a good six hours in of non-stop work. Line cooks are sweating, the expeditor is calling out orders at a frantic clip, cooks are responding back with order acknowledgement, flames are leaping from pans and lapping around steaks on the grill, sauté pans bang on the range top, oven doors open and close constantly, and plates are assembled, moved up to the pass and finished by the expeditor always looking for servers to move items out to tables. There it is – Mr. Adrenaline kicks in! Suddenly the fog seems to dissipate, the cook’s focus is pinpoint perfect, all extraneous conversation is blocked out, and the line begins to resemble the efficiency of an assembly line and the grace of an orchestra reaching the pinnacle of a piece of music. Muscles are back to peak performance, heartbeats increase, those aching feet seem to be fine at the moment, and despite the intensity of service a smile comes over the cook’s face. This is what the cook lives for – this is the action that brings a cook back every day.

WINDING DOWN IS IMPOSSIBLE

As the witching hour passes, as the printer seems to kick into slow mode and the expeditor turns over the reins to the other side of the line – every cook feels almost more nervous than when the line was over-extended. This is actually when mistakes are made because the body and mind are still working at 7 p.m. chaos speed not willing to try and slow down. Cook’s start to fill in spare seconds with a little prep for the next day, cleaning, and self-assessment of tonight’s performance. It will likely take a good hour or so after the dining room closes before the line cooks punch, at the same time Mr. Adrenaline keeps whispering in the cook’s ear that he is not ready to pull back on the energy. This is why cooks typically continue the action at a local bar for the next couple hours to try and put the body’s gasoline to rest. They have little choice – the fire is still burning and it will take time to whimper out.

DECOMPRESS AND A CLEAN SLATE

An hour into after work activities every line cook begins to decompress, put water on the fire, and pass the time with stories about the night’s service. For the first time today the line cook is able to stop stressing about what will come and relax just a bit. Mr. Adrenaline can be put to bed for another day. The cook knows that the work was made easier with this assistance and depends that this friend will arrive on time again tomorrow.

REWIND

Finally the cook crashes to bed and maybe a few hours of sleep – tomorrow will be more of the same and with the help of adrenaline another high-energy night will be a success. As tired as the cook might be he or she continues to relish how this energy-laden window of time on the line provides a sense of satisfaction – something to seek out again, and again.

This type of cooking is as much sport as it is art, as much borderline high anxiety as it is discipline – this is the flash of excitement that pulls cooks to the kitchen line.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO BE A LINE COOK IN THE 60’S AND 70’S – PART II

14 Saturday Oct 2017

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, Cooking in the 60's, cooks, culinary, Hotel kitchens, kitchens

frenchie

Frenchie – The Statler Hilton butcher – 1970

Don the banquet chef had his full crew in place by 10 a.m. – the work in front of them was daunting. With 12 events scheduled for the day culminating in the evening banquet for 1,200 there would be no time to waste. Fortunately, much of the prep work had been accomplished over the past two days, (potatoes washed and oiled, green beans snapped and blanched, salad greens washed and spun dry, salad garnishes done, 1,500 clams casino prepped, 2,000 risotto croquettes ready for breading, mountains of mushroom caps peeled and stuffed with duxelles, canapé spreads done, parsley washed and chopped for garnish, etc.), but the finishing and service coordination would still be monumental. Six of those events were just coffee hours in the early afternoon and two were private luncheons in the Beef Baron Restaurant, so that work would be handled by the a ‘la carte line and service staff – the other four were dinners that would happen simultaneously. Two dinners were for less than 50 persons and Don assigned those to his most accomplished cook to handle entirely, the final two were the banquet for 1,200 and another for 150 – both had the same menu (a stroke of luck). Don was left with three cooks to take care of these larger events. The Executive Chef would, of course, be there at crunch time to help with plating while the sous chef would focus on support for the a ‘la carte restaurant.

As was the case with any influx of substantial banquets the hotel would bring in temporary service staff members who were hired through an outside company. For the two larger banquets this would involve 40 servers and 3 captains who were well trained, but not necessarily familiar with the Statler. Don didn’t worry much about this since the maitre’d and banquet manager were seasoned veterans of the hotel – this was their challenge, not his.

As time drew near for service, Don checked in with his trusted cooks to make sure that everything was in order for the two smaller events and all of the mise was in order for the two main dinners. The menu was very typical for the era – a standard array of passed hors d’ oeuvres – three hot (Clams casino, stuffed mushroom caps, and risotto and cheese croquettes) and a full array of cold canapés that came from garde manger. For the sit down dinner they would pre-set a tossed salad, plate the prime rib with baked potato and sauté green beans and almonds, and have the service staff follow up with table side finishing of au jus. In classic Statler Hilton style – Patsy, the pastry chef had prepared logs of Baked Alaska complete with house made spumoni ice cream, genoise cake, and beautifully piped meringue.

Staff meal was always a rush on days like this and as was usually the case servers and cooks were provided with the tasty, meaty bones from the prime ribs, baked potatoes and a left over vegetable from yesterdays events. Almost 80 staff members devoured their dinner in about 20 minutes at the 4:30 mark.

At 6 p.m. hors d’ oeuvres were being passed in the reception area outside of the Grand Ballroom and a secondary, much smaller room for the party of 150. While this was taking place the service kitchen was systematically plating dressed salads on 8 inch plates that were spread out on the kitchens more than 60 feet of stainless steel counter space, then to be transferred to Queen Anne carts so that service staff could access them quickly. In a few moments those salads would be pre-set on the 140 round tables of ten in the two banquet rooms. When guests arrived the first course would be there to greet them. The Grand Ballroom, in particular, was spectacular with crystal chandeliers, gilded railings, an opera house style mezzanine surrounding the room, lush carpeting in the colors of the hotel, doubled and ironed linen on the tables, sterling silver flatware, and a set plate emblazoned with the hotels distinctive logo. First impressions were very vivid. A string quartet was playing in the reception area during hors d’ oeuvres and would move to the dining room as soon as the doors were open.

Back in the kitchen, now that salads were taken care of, Don was directing the set-up of four service lines as cooks re-arranged the stainless tables for plating. At one end of each line there would be a carver for the beef (back in those days we could never use an electric slicer – everything was sliced by hand). Slicing would begin approximately 5 minutes before plating and then would continue until all 1,350 plus guests were served. Every pot washer, dish washer, and spare bus person was recruited for plating since Don would need 12 additional hands plus 4 runners to restock during plating. Don would handle slicing along with two of his cooks and the Executive Chef. If a ‘la carte was not too busy, then the sous chef would also jump in to assist. The assistant maitre’d became the expeditor to direct service staff during pick-up while the banquet manager saw to the orchestration of 40 servers out front.

plates

Plates were stacked 20 high in six rows on each service line. Pans of bakers, green beans, and the first run of sliced beef were ready on one side of each line awaiting the “go” signal from the banquet manager. When the order was given, the symmetrical process of each person positioning their piece of the puzzle on plates began. After the first minute or so a rhythm was apparent as hands never crossed and plates were assembled in exact duplicate, covered and transferred to server trays. It was a thing of beauty to watch as server after server stepped forward to receive ten plates stacked securely on their trays. These servers were pros with graceful confidence and strong arms and backs as they hoisted the trays on one shoulder and marched to waiting tray stands strategically placed throughout the ballroom. As each plate was presented to a guest a second server followed with a gooseneck silver sauceboat filled with au jus. A precise ladle of au jus was placed on each person’s slice of prime rib as the presentation was deemed complete. This process continued over the next 25 minutes, table after table. Within a half hour, the kitchen and dining room staff had served 1,350 people.

With no time to waste, as soon as the last plate left the kitchen, staff members were busy washing down tables and transferring leftover food to carts for return to the kitchen. The sous chef had pulled the 140 logs of Baked Alaska from the pastry chef’s freezer 15 minutes earlier so that they had time to temper a bit before slicing. Desserts at large events at the Statler were always a highlight for guests. In the service kitchen each log was transferred to a rectangular silver platter and topped with granulated sugar. The maitre’d was stationed at the entrance to the dining room and was ready with a torch. The Executive chef stood in front of him with a carafe filled with heated brandy. The string quartet stopped playing as the banquet manager took to the microphone and announced the arrival of dessert. The lights in the ballroom were dimmed till the room was nearly black and at that precise moment the parade began. Server after server stopped for a few seconds at the exit from the kitchen while the chef doused the top of each Baked Alaska with brandy and the maitre’d lit the Baked Alaska. Imagine the scene as 140 flaming Baked Alaska’s were paraded around the perimeter of the darkened ballroom, delivered to a waiting tray stand by each table, sliced tableside and placed strategically in front of each guest. It never failed – the entire room erupted in applause. This was something that never got old – it made all of us in the kitchen feel proud of what we did for a living. The servers were experts at presenting this part of the meal as something to be remembered.

After a solid hour of cleanup Don and his crew were untying their aprons and locking away their knife kits. It was 11 p.m. – Don had been here since 6 in the morning and now he was ready to call it a day. He had managed to finish the two six packs of beer and bottle of vodka during his shift while never showing any signs of intoxication. Apparently his large frame was a friend in this regard. Even with that extraordinary amount of alcohol in his system he didn’t turn down the shift drink offered by the chef to everyone just before the kitchen lights were dimmed for a few hours until the pastry chef and breakfast crew arrived to start all over again.

Tomorrow would bring more banquets, house guests looking for a hearty breakfast, an enormous amount of planning, and all of the unknown challenges that occur every day in a busy kitchen. Some of these challenges are handled easily while others can push a kitchen team to the brink of disaster. Wait and see.

**The next installment of this story of kitchen life in the 60’s and 70’s will be released on Thursday, October 19.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.amazon.com/Event-That-Changed-Everything-Relationships/dp/1491755105/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507987814&sr=8-1&keywords=The+Event+That+Changed+Everything

Restaurant Consulting and Training

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COOKS WITH DRAGONS IN THEIR CLOSET

22 Saturday Jul 2017

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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Tags

chefs, cooks, kitchens, restaurants, What makes a cook tick

Painted in Waterlogue

Make no mistake, the most enjoyable part of working in a kitchen will always be the interesting people who man that station or cutting board next to you. Of course we have a passion for the food – this is, after all, the common denominator, the point of conversation, the pride of the work, and the quest for excellence that justifies our crazy commitment of hours and effort, but the people draw us back like a magnet; the people set the business apart from so many others; the people bring out the best and the worst of every cook.

What is it about restaurant people that is so intriguing and compelling? Surely, every profession has its unique mix of characters who bring a smile to coworkers faces or drive them absolutely crazy – so why and how are kitchen employees different? Some will agree that an unhealthy majority of coworkers have a few skeletons in their closet – things that they can’t drive from their conscious and subconscious mind, and certainly have no desire to make them public, but in the kitchen things are different. Many of those skeletons are dragons taunting the cook, festering and steaming, ready to unleash their destructive fire at any moment. It is these dragons that add that unique chemistry to a kitchen and make that same kitchen percolate with interest, creativity, and a tad bit of danger. This is what brings people back every day to Dante’s Inferno for another dose of kitchen life.

So who are those dragons and how do they add to the stew of the kitchen environment? Let’s take a quick look:

[] THE DRAGON OF INSECURITY

Cooks, particularly line warriors, carry the stern façade of over-confident, sometimes ego driven, cocky and “I am always right” soldiers of the kitchen, when in fact, this is often times a “show-time” disguise for individuals who are quite insecure. The cook is, under the surface, a bit unsure of him or herself, and highly sensitive to what others think of his or her work.

[] THE DRAGON OF LONELINESS

Think about it: unpredictable hours, shifts that almost always last 10-12 hours, socially isolating hours that typical begin after noon and can last well past midnight, never a weekend off, rarely a holiday off, physical and mental exhaustion after a shift leaving little time for relationship building – where is the time for cooks to build outside relationships and find someone to come how to after another night in the kitchen inferno. Aside from those after hour’s drinks with co-workers, where is the time for anything else?

[] THE DRAGON OF CONFIDENCE OR LACK THERE OF

Confidence comes from years of experience, trial and error, loads of repetition, challenging situations that force a cook to become a problem solver, and a supportive boss willing to teach and train. Until that point in time is reached, most cooks are far less confident than they might appear.

[] THE DRAGON OF CREATIVE GENIUS

Whether it manifests in work or not, most serious cooks have an innate desire to create, to tweak what is done in the kitchen or move in a totally different direction, a true need to be expressive, experimental, and daring with food. If this dragon is not fed, at least on occasion, then the cook becomes complacent and even negative towards his or her job.

[] THE DRAGON OF LIVING ON THE EDGE

I am not sure what it is, maybe it stems from the foolish dares that inevitably come out of working in difficult situations with the addition of heat, steam, sharp knives, and 600 degree ovens, but cooks tend to be willing to push the envelope on and off the job. This dragon is what gets them in trouble far too often. When they drink – they drink too much; when they drive – they drive too fast; when they eat – they eat with excess; and when they argue their point there is a good chance that things will get out of hand.

[] THE DRAGON OF WORK ETHIC

Underneath it all, good cooks are dependable and always willing to work crazy hours while performing at a level that is hard to understand. Next to farmers, cooks are the best workers that I have ever been around.

[] THE DRAGON OF WANTING TO FIT

Those excessive hours in the kitchen are not just accepted because the chef needs them – cooks work because there is a desire to fit in with this group of pirates with an unquenchable thirst to see just how much they can work, how many hours they can spend on their feet, how many burns and cuts they can handle, and how many incredible dinners they can produce in the shortest period of time. Serious cooks crave the opportunity to be part of this club – admirable and crazy at the same time. This dragon is never satisfied.

[] THE DRAGON OF NO PAIN, NO GAIN

Membership in the club comes with some basic understandings – one of them relates to the fact that cooks will burn themselves, accumulate numerous stitches from the emergency room, cauterize some of those cuts on a 800 degree, cheery red flat top, and tough it through heat blisters and swollen feet. The general rule of thumb is that if you can’t stand it then you don’t belong. This is, of course, absurd, but unfortunately true.

[] THE OCD DRAGON

You can’t read an article about working in a kitchen without mentioning the importance of mise en place (everything has a place and everything is in it’s place). This kitchen organization is essential and something that every cook understands after that first shift that they failed to “get it” and went blank under the pressure of “being in the weeds” during a busy shift. The dragon in this case is the fact that once mise en place is ingrained at work, it must be fed in every part of a cook’s life. How he or she organizes their day, fold their clothes, maintain their home kitchen order, where they put their spices, how they line up boxes of cereal in their home cupboards, and the manner with which they stack dishes in their dishwasher must follow the dragon of mise en place. It makes sense to the cook, but drives everyone around them nuts.

[] THE DRAGON OF FIRE AND SHARP OBJECTS

Fire is fascinating and fire to a cook is his or her best friend. Fire that is controlled can help the cook prepare masterful dishes, but fire without control can destroy those same dishes in an instant. Cooks love this control over something so beautiful and dangerous at the same time. The same goes for a cooks knives – a sharp knife, with the right guidance can make a cook’s work quite easy, but if not maintained, a dull one can frustrate, impede, and even cause bodily harm. Cooks are obsessed with fire and the condition of their knives. This dragon is ever-present.

[] THE DRAGON OF SUBSTANCE ABUSE

Yep – as you can imagine with a head full of dragons always sitting on a cook’s shoulders, there is a need to calm them down and push them aside. More cooks than we ever want to admit, suffer from an over-dependence on alcohol and drugs to silence the dragons that would otherwise take full control of their lives.

[] THE DRAGON OF SELF-CRITIQUE

A chef may yell, a customer might complain, a peer might admonish, but it is the self-loathing of serious cooks that consumes his or her psyche. Cooks will inevitably look at their own work with a critical eye and consistently view of plate of food pushed through the pass as something that could certainly be better. Even that plate that comes back to the dishwasher at the end of service and carries some trace amounts of unconsumed food is something that keeps a cook up late at night. “What was wrong with it? How could I have done it better? “ The self-critique dragon can really bring a cook down.

[] THE DRAGON OF PEER ACCEPTANCE

Certainly, the cook wants to know that the chef is pleased with his or her work; certainly, it is important that the guest is more than satisfied with the food that a cook produces, but in the end it is the admiration of his or her peer cooks that is most important to a professional. “Great dish” from a peer cook is enough to make a cook’s day and bring him or her back for another taste tomorrow.

[] THE DRAGON OF DISCIPLINE

Believe it or not – cooks crave discipline. They may not, and probably don’t, have a load of discipline in their lives outside of the kitchen, but when they wear the uniform and tie on that apron they are anxious to fit into a system that requires strict adherence to procedures and the comfort that comes from following the chain of command. “Yes Chef” really is welcomed by most cooks who have a desire to be part of something that works when discipline exists, and falls apart when that same discipline is ignored.

PLAN BETTER –TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC