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RESTAURANTS ARE A MICROCOSM OF ISSUES FACING THE COUNTRY TODAY

08 Thursday Nov 2018

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This article is inspired by a story related to the youngest freshman U.S. representative Alexandria Ocasio – Cortez. Putting aside your individual political bent – she comes to the House of Representatives from a history of positions working in the restaurant business – so she automatically has street cred in my book. From her vantage point she felt connected to a very large segment of the U.S. population – a segment that feels first hand, the issues that face our country today. It made me think just how representative our fellow workers are of the country and the core challenges that are faced by everyday Americans.

As I look into the eyes of those hard-working, passionate, and occasionally maligned individuals with whom I worked for so many years, I see the real America, the country where opportunity exists, but where individual challenges can seem overwhelming. Here is what I see and what representative Cortez brings to the forefront of discussion:

[]         IMMIGRATION:

I don’t know of any businesses more impacted by immigration issues than agriculture and the restaurant business. To some, the answer to our labor challenges is to simply pay employees more – then Americans would be more inclined to select jobs in those fields. In these industries where the product and service offered is very labor intensive and product prices have reached their peak – it is difficult to imagine how businesses would be able to increase wages without automation to eliminate a significant portion of the workforce. I think that we would all agree that illegal immigration is wrong, and those who want to make America their home must do so in the correct manner – but in the meantime, farmers and restaurateurs are faced with reducing services and in some cases closing their doors due to a lack of an adequate pool.

[]         LIVABLE WAGES:

The lack of a livable wage is one of the effects of an industry that finds profitability extremely challenging. Simply throwing money at the challenge is not the long-term answer. The restaurant industry needs to take a hard look at its operational model and adjust to one that makes it possible to pay a fair wage for the work done. If left to government, then restaurants will be burdened with mandated wage increases. The real solution must come from the bottom up. Restaurants need to collaborate with competitors, education, professional organizations, unions, employees and customers to devise a workable solution.

[]         HEALTHCARE:

FACT: Everyone needs a fair, affordable, and functional healthcare plan. The restaurant business, like many other profit-starved industries has simply ignored this fact for generations. It is time for business and government to find a solution that won’t starve the individual and bankrupt the country.

[]         ADDICTION:

Addiction to drugs and alcohol is prevalent throughout our society. It no longer strikes at just lower income segments of the population – every socio-economic group faces this issue. However, in the restaurant business we have brushed this very significant problem under the rug for as long as I can remember. Is addiction an effect or a cause of societal problems – is our industry, as an example, with the work and social challenges that it creates, partly to blame for a rampant problem that impacts cooks, servers, operators, and owners alike – or does the nature of the business tend to provide a safe haven for those who are inclined to addiction abuse? We all know, first hand, how far-reaching this challenge is. We see it every day in restaurants from coast to coast.

[]         EDUCATION:

The restaurant business is the great equalizer. Ethnicity, race, gender, age, size, and educational background have little bearing on a person’s status in the kitchen. The fact that an employee has a bachelor’s or master’s degree in a discipline doesn’t make him or her more or less valuable than the person who never finished high school. As a safe haven for all – the business is flush with people who feel that they have little opportunity for advancement as well as those who feel that they are stifled and unable to utilize the educational chops that they accumulated. To some – restaurant work is a lifeline, an opportunity for a paycheck and a foot in the door – while others view it as a dead end that, out of necessity, is where they plant their feet.

[]         FOOD INTEGRITY:

Cooks and other foodservice professionals have a very unique tie to the ingredients they use. Just as more and more consumers are showing concern for the source of ingredients and how those items are raised and handled, the cook depends on quality ingredients that they know are safe and nutritious. The macro issue of food integrity from the source to the plate is of paramount importance to those who make a living while nurturing and adapting those ingredients in the kitchen.

[]         CLIMATE CHANGE:

Is climate change something that really impacts the lives of everyday Americans? Is this more of a 1,000 foot issue for politicians and leaders to fret about and analyze? Changes in climate hit home with restaurants as they struggle with the impact it has on product pricing and availability, and how extreme changes in weather impact on customer participation in the restaurant experience.

[]         TRANSPORTATION:

With sub standard wages comes lifestyle decisions that are not ideal. So many foodservice employees view owning a car a luxury that they can ill afford – while most of us view the ownership of a vehicle to be an absolute necessity and a sign of our freedom to make daily choices. The cost of car payments, gas, and parking are out of reach for many who wear a chef’s coat and apron. Access to affordable mass transportation is essential for this audience. In areas where this is not available – the restaurant culture suffers.

[]         HOUSING:

As a community grows and prospers so too will an abundance of restaurants. Jobs made be prevalent, but if affordable housing is not in proximity then those same restaurants will struggle to find staff. Yes – there is a significant portion of the American population that cannot afford shelter, transportation, and food for their own table. Low unemployment rates are not the sole indicator of a healthy economic climate. Far too many foodservice workers find it impossible to live on the salary from one job and as such wear many hats.

[]         TECHNOLOGY:

Shelter, Food, Transportation, Healthcare, and now technology can all be considered necessities for a reasonable life. A person without a personal computer is at a disadvantage. Fathers and mothers who cannot provide web access for their children are crippling their education. A cell phone may still seem to be frivolous, but if a person is to feel connected to society and life that is changing at breakneck speed – then a cell phone is a critical piece of the puzzle. When sub-standard wages fail to provide for any of the critical “necessities” in life then we can’t expect enthusiastic, passionate, committed work to result.

[]         SOCIAL MEDIA AS A NEWS SOURCE:

We are more and more aware of the problems with social media and the lack of sufficient controls and monitoring of content – yet, when a workforce is starved for quality education, when time is one of the aspects of life in shortest supply, then that phone that is a necessity also becomes the primary source of information (sometimes accurate, oftentimes less so). Opinions, anxiety, anger, misinformation, short sound bites, and unqualified sources are being driven to those who have little other options than to simply take everything at face value. “If it’s on the Internet it must be the truth.”

[]         CLASS STRUCTURE:

Outside of the restaurant “family” there has always been a class structure that is felt, but rarely discussed.   As far as we may have come in terms of public respect – working in a restaurant has rarely been a favorable choice for a career in the eyes of those who have never felt the gratification of working with great people, creating wonderful food, and uplifting those who view the restaurant as a place where they can leave behind their challenges and problems and simply enjoy being served.

Yes, a restaurant is a microcosm of the American condition. The challenges of down-to-earth people are evident and maybe even more pronounced through the eyes of cooks, chefs, servers, bartenders, and operators.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

Restaurant Consulting and Training

 

THE IMPORTANCE OF WORK – THE VALUE OF A DOLLAR

18 Thursday Oct 2018

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There are a handful of lessons in life that shine true for everyone, that stand tall as ultimately important for our existence, and that set people on a course of completeness that is so essential. One of those lessons is the significance of work – regardless of what that work might be. Work is important on so many levels and for so many reasons. In particular – the relationship of work to understanding the value of a dollar and the knowledge that pay is recognition for effort, expertise, knowledge, and commitment is so significant and indicative of a person’s character.

“Without hard work, nothing grows but weeds.”

-Gordon B. Hinckley

These relationships go both ways, of course. The individual who learns early on that work is important to them and to those around them, should also be recognized in the same manner by those whom they work for. Effort for pay and proper pay for effort are equally important.

When people learn that there is a need to earn what you make, then there is a different level of appreciation for what they have and the opportunities before them. This may sound like one of those hollow lectures from an older generation, but I am convinced that these words have merit.

The earlier that a person realizes that he or she must put forth the effort to enjoy privilege, then this relationship with work ethic has a chance to establish roots. I applaud those 14 year olds with a paper route, the high school freshman who is excited to sign up for early working papers, and even those even younger who know the relationship between chores and an allowance. I truly admire kids who grow up on a farm and understand that before their day slips into a normal flow – there is farm work to be done. When individuals from a very early age understand that “of course I will work before I play”, then this effort becomes a habit and the habit becomes part of their personal culture.

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When that $500 cell phone is given to a 15 year old as a right of passage rather than something that is earned through hard work and effort, then its meaning as something of special value is diminished. When there is no relationship between what we have and how we worked to earn it, then everything becomes a right instead of a privilege.

So, where am I going with this? Everything in my world eventually turns to a relationship with the food business and this article is no exception. I will not generalize and point a finger at an entire group of people, but rather reference those within many generations since the late 1940’s (yes, this is a somewhat subjective observation on my part – although someone must have entertained a statistical review of this observation) and how they view this work/value relationship. Parents have always felt that they have a responsibility to provide for their family and to set the stage for children to have a better lifestyle than they enjoyed (or suffered through). This is an admirable goal and an understandable responsibility, but to live this goal without instilling a feeling that personal effort is an integral part of this, is a real problem.

When people fail to understand the work/value relationship then their desire to earn a living, to know how important it is to treat the opportunity for employment with respect, the need to find their passion through hard work, and to approach every responsibility with vigor, is diminished. The results are evident in their efforts in school, their level of enthusiasm for finding a calling in life, their appreciation for what they have and what they are able to provide, and their willingness to find a way to constantly improve, is diminished.

The restaurant industry is truly challenged today, more so than ever before. It has always been hard to earn a profit in a business of pennies, it has always been challenging to attract a steady flow of customers and keep them coming back, and it has always been challenging to hit the mark with the right product and service, but it has never been this hard to find and keep staff.

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When restaurants limit their hours of operation, modify their menus, and even close their doors, not because the location was wrong or the quality of their product missed the mark, but simply because they couldn’t find or depend on their staff to show up and give a reasonable effort – then we have a societal issue that is very disturbing. Yes, there are other factors: 3.7% unemployment means that there are more jobs than people and less incentive to work extra hard, the work in restaurants is unusually hard, and the pay is not in line with effort and skill, but I really believe that much of the blame falls on the shoulders of this lack of work/value respect. These problems with the restaurant industry must be resolved – fair pay for effort is essential, but pay alone will not solve this problem.

Those farm kids may not want to get up at 4 a.m. to feed the chickens, and the 14 year olds probably groan when their parents wake them up at 5 a.m. to deliver papers, but they know that the work is there and it is their responsibility to put in the effort. When that effort results in a paycheck or an allowance there is a sense of accomplishment that has real value. Those same individuals at the age of 18, or 25, or 40 will never consider not showing up to work, or arriving late without any remorse. These same individuals in a kitchen will always be ready when those first tickets grind off the POS, and will always give 100% effort with “best effort” quality work throughout the day whether it is peeling onions or reducing a sauce. These same individuals will never punch out without feeling that they earned their pay.

Restaurants need to do a much better job of training and caring for the people who work in their operations. Creating a more realistic work environment, treating people with respect, and paying a fair wage are all significant issues that must be addressed, but the lack of attention to this should never justify a lack of work/value effort on the part of employees. When a property fails to recognize positive effort then the employee is always justified in looking for better opportunities, but when individuals relinquish their responsibility for being dependable and doing a good job, then the problem becomes cultural rather than the responsibility of a property or specific operator.

I am not sure there is a quick fix – the work/value core is a character issue that starts in the home and in the community. This challenge is now societal and has been festering for decades. There should be a relationship between the rewards of living and the commitment to effort. We all share a responsibility for this.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

 

 

 

A COOK’S KNIVES TELL YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HIS OR HER CHARACTER AND COMMITMENT

02 Sunday Sep 2018

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Do you remember that first knife that you called your own? Mine was a 12-inch Sabatier carbon steel beauty that held a razor sharp edge. That knife could slice through vegetables like they were butter, and far too frequently mistook my fingers for a carrot. Still, I loved that knife, sharpened it on a wet stone every day and kept a flat steel close to my side whenever I worked. The carbon steel was not pretty, but I sacrificed that for the edge that I could have used for shaving. Unfortunately, someone else felt that he or she needed my knife more than I did and it disappeared one year. I still mourn the loss of that blade.

There is a unique connection between a cook and his or her knives. We may only use two or three different knives (French, Paring, Boning), but the longer we cook, the more we become obsessed with adding to our collection. It is not uncommon to find a cook carrying a tool box that weighs as much as a sack of onions – filled with specialty tools that may only find a place on your cutting board a few times a year, but they are always close at hand – just in case. How we care for those tools goes a long way toward defining the type of person we are, and how serious we are about the profession we chose.

“We become what we behold. We shape our tools and then our tools shape us.”

-Marshall McLuhan

Here are some of the observations that I have had and continue to rely on as I mentally assess the quality of a cook:

WHAT YOU CAN LEARN ABOUT COOKs BY WATCHING HOW THEY CARE FOR THER TOOLS

RESPECT:

Cooks that respect their knives are more likely to respect those people around them. Their respect for others, however, is determined by how well they care for their own tools. Mutual respect cannot be turned on and off – if you respect your tools then your peers know they can count on you.

ORGANIZATION:

There is a connection – caring for your tools clearly reflects on your organizational profile. When I see a neatly tied knife roll and watch how religiously a cook unwraps that roll and gingerly removes knifes from their appointed slot, I can guarantee that this level of organization and reverence for order will follow as they set-up a work station.

SKILL:

Watch a cook who cares for his or her tools and you can be confident that they know how to use them. A seasoned cook knows that a cared for, sharp knife makes the work of a professional so much more fluid and enjoyable. I guarantee that a person who cares for these tools is a cook who produces those perfect knife cuts, who makes child’s play out of mincing herbs, boning out a leg of lamb, cutting steaks, and drawing a slicer through a prime rib without any effort.

“The expectations of life depend upon diligence; the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.”

-Confucius

OWNERSHIP:

Cooks who take ownership of their tools as an obligation are far more likely to take ownership of the restaurants tools, the ingredients they work with, and the finished product that carries their invisible signature. There is a connection.

CONFIDENCE:

When your tools are at the ready, when they are known for what they are capable of, when the connection between your hand and the knife is definitive, then the cook feels empowered to perform at a high level. The brain may tell the hands what to do, but the fundamental connection between the hand and the knife can be electric. The knife becomes an extension of the hand muscles and the brain that sent the message. A well cared for knife helps to provide the confidence that cooks need.

PROFESSIONALISM:

In every career that relies on tools for performance, there is an understanding that to be accomplished, to be respected, and to be connected to the very best at their trade – you must hold those tools with respect and care for them. The condition of those tools allows you to be part of the ranks of career cooks who wear the chef’s toque and tie on an apron. At the same time, it is not the tool that makes you a professional it is how you care for and respect those tools and others who are part of that club.

PRIDE:

In essence, a cook’s knives are part of the uniform. The uniform that represents professional cooks back to the time of the Renaissance is important to any serious cook.   Wearing the uniform and holding that beautiful, closely honed, incredibly sharp knife that sits perfectly in your hand and stands ready to slice, dice, chop, bone, and carve is as significant historically as the double breasted white coat and hounds tooth pants. The cook stands a bit taller when the uniform is clean, pressed, and starched and shows a high level of confidence when that roll bag is opened to reveal an inventory of cutlery – each with a specific purpose, each razor sharp and at the ready, each gleaming with attention to their blade surface, bolster, and handle. When the cook is ready it is because his tools are also ready.

“Japanese chefs believe our soul goes into our knives once we start using them. “

Masaharu Morimoto

Chefs – when you are preparing to interview cooks for a position in your kitchen, you may want to start by asking them to show you their knife kit. Watch the care with which he or she unwraps that roll bag and how they lay open the inventory of tools. Ask the cook to present a knife to you for inspection. Watch how they present it, maybe with a bit of trepidation since they rarely allow others to handle their important tools of the trade. Look at the handle, the bolster, and the blade; are they impeccably clean? Test the edge – is it sharp and ready for work? You may not need to go any further with the interview – a cook with tools at the ready is a cook that will perform as a professional on the job.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

 

 

 

 

 

COOKS – YEP – WE’RE DIFFERENT – SO WHAT?

22 Wednesday Aug 2018

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When will this nonsense stop? How far will it go? Will we reach a point where a job posting states that eligible candidates must be of a certain political affiliation, religion, sexual orientation, or nationality? This era of polarization is incredibly dangerous and divisive. Through all of my years in the kitchen I never, ever felt that what made us different was a roadblock; it was the most important thing that made the work interesting. Certainly what is important is what makes us uniquely the same.

It is difficult to get through a day without dwelling on something that makes us all incompatible. I support this candidate and you support another. I have this belief about how a person should live and you believe another. I am for the environment and you could care less. These are all opinions based on the life environment that we grew up in, the friends that we chose, and the affiliations that somehow were attractive to us. In the end, they may not be who we truly are, they are just expressions based on our current way of thinking. When we view our selves as right and everyone else is wrong we have eliminated the possibility for conversation and open minds. When there are only black and white answers then grey becomes impossible to accept.

When we focus on what makes us uniquely the same then the stage is set for calm and intelligent conversation about current beliefs. Without this common area of agreement we fall into that model of polarization without any room to embrace what is good and valuable in others.

Keep this simple fact close to your heart: no one EVER changed another person’s mind through a Facebook or Twitter post. No unifying effort came about by antagonizing another person for his or her current beliefs. Forget, for just a moment who is right and who is wrong and consider how we might collectively create a forum for reasonable and informed discussion and when that is not possible, simply accept that we are different.

In the kitchen, we all know, that there is a common appreciation for food, cooking, and the teamwork necessary to make a restaurant service work. It is no different in many other professions, but in the kitchen it becomes immediately apparent that the results of a service period is totally dependent on everyone putting aside his or her differences and focusing on the responsibilities in front of them. Everything else, in the moment, pales in comparison; and guess what – it feels good.

When this becomes the overriding common denominator then a world of other opportunities become apparent. I have had, as I am sure most cooks reading this agree, incredible conversations where opinions have become the basis for reasonable and fruitful dialogue. Cooks are anxious to express their differences in religious belief, political affiliation, tastes in food, styles of music, thoughts about education, and a litany of other closely held beliefs. When that common belief in team and work sets the tone then people actually begin to listen to each other. They may not change anyone’s beliefs or opinions BUT all sides begin to appreciate another persons right to think differently. This is what it means to live in a country where individual differences are accepted and even celebrated. This is what has always made our country great and in many cases – worth fighting for. When we lose this freedom to hold onto our own beliefs and intelligently discuss them without reprisal then we have lost everything that sets us up as a benchmark for freedom.

What are we doing? Saluting our flag is not a habit, it is an opportunity to express what we believe in and what makes us great. We are great because we are different and we are different because we are allowed to hold on to and express those differences. This is the definition of liberty. Know that very few countries in the world have this freedom of expression and those that do are more often than not, countries that choose to model themselves after us. What are be doing? If we continue to feed this feeling of polarization – “I’m right and you are wrong”, then we have lost everything.

We have suddenly relinquished our ability to listen and calmly discuss what we believe in and have accepted only those opinions and beliefs that align with ours. Where will this end attitude bring us? If our work and social environment is filled only with those who agree with each other then we will wind up with a stale and uninspired product or service, an unfulfilled relationship and a company or social network that fails to move forward. If we attempt to develop friendships and relationships with only those people who share our political, religious, or lifestyle affiliations and beliefs then how will families grow and become dynamic and inspired? Is this fate too extreme or does it seem like we are headed in a terrifying direction?

What brings us together and what we share in common pales in comparison to what makes us different. The best companies, the most dynamic families, the most fruitful relationships come from an appreciation of difference.

At least in the kitchen I have always felt that differences unite – I only hope that this continues to be the common denominator and that we (cooks, chefs, bakers, dishwashers, and service staff) hang on to this uniquely special environment even in the face of a society more and more content on accepting polarization as the norm.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

CHEFS – THINGS JUST AREN’T WHAT THEY USE TO BE

08 Wednesday Aug 2018

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Looking back over the past 18-months it is hard to grasp just how much things have changed in the restaurant world. It made me wonder if all of this change (some planned, some unexpected) is good for the culinary world or not. Having long been an advocate for the importance of change, I find myself, like many others wondering if my logical approach towards the need to move on and forward is still applicable.

“Change can be frightening, and the temptation is often to resist it. But change almost always provides opportunities – to learn new things, to rethink tired processes, and to improve the way we work.”

-Klaus Schwab

The reality is that no matter how much we may advocate for flexibility and a willingness to move in new directions – everyone tends to resist moving away from his or her comfort zone. I have even talked quite a bit about being a traditionalist in previous articles and hanging on to the classic concepts and preparations that still work in so many operations. I have pointed to the need to maintain professionalism and the structure that got us to where we are today and to support the grand history of cooking and the art of food. Am I simply hanging on to the past and contradicting my own advocacy for change? I thought that I should take a hard look at myself and point to the changes – good, bad, and indifferent that we (the people of the food industry) have faced in recent months.

[]         THE LOSS OF ICONS:

Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, Antonio Carluccio, Roger Verge, Benoit Violier, and even Antony Bourdain – (just to name a few) all chefs who were prominent in the culinary world, who made a difference and defined their place in food history have passed away in the past few years. Each one helped to define the business of cooking and point to the joys and sorrows of working behind a range. Will their influence survive a new wave of change?

[]         THE NEW FACE OF FINE DINING:

Formal fine dining has been dying a slow death for many years, but one could easily promote that in the last few years it finally took its last breath. Sure, there are still a few operations that hang on and even a small number that actually continue to thrive, but the formality of high cuisine has taken a back seat to fun dining with great food. The intense structure to quiet dining rooms and technically perfect service have given way to loud, informal, casual service with food that still carries the mark of excellence. Personally, I think that this was long overdue and truly relish the opportunity to enjoy terrific, well-prepared and presented food in an atmosphere where laughter and conversation are perfectly acceptable. Nevertheless – it is different.

[]         THE RUN AWAY SUCCESS OF FOOD TRUCKS:

Some restaurateurs will complain that food trucks break the rules – that they are not encumbered by the challenges of brick and mortar and pay less attention to the “rules of the game” that established restaurant storefronts must live by. Complain if you like, but food trucks are probably here to stay. On the positive side – food trucks are concept incubators and occasionally lead to brick and mortar operations; food trucks are able to overcome the challenges of attracting customers by simply driving to where the customers might already be; and food trucks allow nearly anyone to avoid the high start-up cost of a stationary operation. Finally, food trucks give young culinary entrepreneurs a chance to be creative and test the market with something new. Whatever your position – food trucks are changing the face of the restaurant industry.

[]         DINNER THROUGH THE MAIL:

Still one of the primary reasons why people choose to dine out is for convenience and from a lack of understanding how to cook. Suddenly companies like Blue Apron, Hello Fresh, and Magic Kitchen are making it much easier for people to stay at home, build some basic skills, and prepare reasonably good food without the help of a neighborhood restaurant. Who knows what amazon will eventually do with their new Whole Foods Division. We need to wake up to a new, viable competitor.

[]         THE TRUTH ABOUT FARM TO FORK:

Farm to Fork should be the standard that every restaurant lives by. It is a chef’s philosophy that demonstrates appreciation for ingredients and their source and respects the flavor of fresh, regional goods. Unfortunately, in far too many cases, Farm to Fork has simply become a marketing initiative that could easily come under “truth in advertising” scrutiny. How many restaurants that claim to be farm friendly, truly are?

[]         THE AWAKENING OF CULINARY EDUCATION:

This topic is worth a few hundred pages of discussion – let’s just say that the wave of culinary education serviced by more than 1,000 schools from coast to coast, has hit a wall. High costs and questionable results have put this very important part of the food business in jeopardy as more and more schools close and others struggle to meet enrollment goals. How will we attract and train cooks in the future? Will culinary schools adapt to change and even drive the change that is needed?

[]         A TATTOO NATION:

The days of Escoffier are long gone. The time in history when the chef demanded pristine uniforms and impeccable, conservative grooming and (in the case of Escoffier) even required cooks to wear a jacket and tie when they were out in public outside of the kitchen is long gone. The tattoo is a statement of independence for younger cooks and service staff. To a cook, there has always been that feeling of being outside of the norm, maybe a bit of a pirate, certainly part of a niche culture. The tattoo is a way to proclaim something about the person: who they are and what they believe in. Get use to it – this is part of the new kitchen culture.

[]         CRAFT BEER ADVOCATE VS. WINE ADVOCATE:

It was often said that a great meal without a great wine was certainly less than satisfying. To many serious diners it would be unheard of to enjoy a meal without the appropriate wine. In America that wine culture grew significantly from the late 1970’s till the end of the millennium. Suddenly, beer became as complex and as sophisticated in it’s own way, as wine. Beer pairing dinners are growing in popularity, beer lists in restaurants are beginning to rival wine by the glass programs, and chefs must now learn how to plan menus with beer in mind as well as with wine. This would have been unheard of just a few decades ago.

[]         CHANGES IN KITCHEN CULTURE:

The subservient culture of the kitchen, the autocratic style of management that was prominent from coast to coast, the level of commitment to a career in cooking, and the patience associated with “paying your dues” is crumbling. The joy of working as a team and the intensity of the job may remain, but the cultural structure of the environment is a far cry from what it was a generation ago.

[]         END OF THE HOSTILE WORK ENVIRONMENT:

The structure may resemble a military organization but the demeaning nature of a drill sergeant is no longer acceptable in the kitchen. Bullying, public displays of hostility, and relentless inappropriate behavior towards each other is “done”. It’s a different world now and just because you may have worked your way up the ranks in such a hostile environment no longer gives you the right to create that same environment for others.

[]         DUMBING DOWN OF THE FOOD NETWORK:

Believe it or not, there was a time when the Food Network was actually realistic and geared towards education and the portrayal of a noble profession. Now absurd shows that pit people against each other in a super market, show cooks tormented by out of control chefs, call untrained people with an apron “master chefs”, and build off a crowd frenzy as others are encouraged to gorge themselves with 10,000 calories while the time clock ticks, have demeaned the business of food and the profession of cooking. There is literally nothing on this network now that is worth watching.

[]         THE DEMISE OF THE WORKAHOLIC COOK:

When any cook over the age of 40 says that he or she has paid their dues, they mean that they have forsaken everything in their lives for the demands of the kitchen. They have worked 70-hour weeks as a steady diet and fail to understand people who work only 40 and have weekends off, and they think of little except anything to do with food and the process of cooking. We may have done this and probably still take pride in how we endured, but many younger cooks have little appetite for this lifestyle. This is the reality and we must figure out how we will operate without those who give up everything for the job.

[]         OUR LEADER IS A FAST FOOD JUNKIE:

The Office of President is significant in so many ways – one that is often overlooked is how the President can set the tone for the populations habits. When the President admittedly would much prefer a McDonald’s hamburger and Coke to a well executed meal of fresh ingredients accompanied by a perfectly paired wine or craft beer, then the tone is set for a new generation of food consumer. Ugh.

I don’t know – as much as I love this restaurant business and the people who tie on an apron and wield a French knife, things are changing and all of us who have built our professional lives around the traditions of the kitchen are facing a significant wake-up call. While we continue to promote, teach, train, and inspire from a foundation of culinary history, we must also be cognizant of the inevitable changes taking place and more to come. We should never allow a new generation of cooks and chefs to lose sight of the what and why of cooking and it’s proud history, but we may just need to accept that it will soon be time to pass the torch and learn to keep an open mind to change.

PLAN BETTER –TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

 

DAY ONE IN THE KITCHEN – WHAT TO EXPECT

13 Wednesday Jun 2018

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line cooks

Starting a new job is always un-nerving – even more so in a kitchen where production is expected, even on day one. Whether you are totally green and walking into a kitchen environment for the first time, transitioning from culinary school to a live kitchen environment, or simply moving as a cook from one restaurant to another – the first few days can be tough. How do we prepare for these challenging few days of acclimation?

Here are some suggestions that are universally important whether you are starting in a diner, family restaurant, fast food operation or fine dining establishment.

[]         GET THE LAY OF THE LAND

It is your responsibility as a cook to find our where and how items are stored, how the equipment works, who to go to for specific needs, how needs are relayed to the person responsible, and the general system of operation that a kitchen relies on day in and day out. This doesn’t mean that you can’t ask questions, but your learning curve should be quick. After a day or two the last thing in the world you should do is ask the sous chef or chef where they store the butter or fresh herbs.

[]         UNNECESSARY QUESTIONS ARE NOT WELCOME

There is a commonly used adage that “no question is a dumb question”. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Any question that could be figured out independently by the person asking, any question that contains the obvious answer in its context, and any question that has already been answered before is a dumb question. Take notes! “Chef – do you want those chiffonade vegetables cut the way you showed me yesterday?” Now that’s a dumb question. “Chef, since I have 100 chicken breasts to prepare for service do they still need to be caramelized first?” – no comment.

[]         PERSONAL TOOLS ARE VERY PERSONAL

This still remains one of the most important rules in the kitchen to learn – a cook or chef’s personal tools are his or her personal tools. These tools allow that cook to perform at a certain level, they have history, they are an investment, they are cared for and sharpened with a passion typically reserved for relationships with people – DON’T TOUCH THEM, DON’T LET OTHERS TOUCH THEM, DON’T EVEN ASK – STAY AWAY! If you touch another cook’s tools you will encounter the rage of a person who acts as if you inappropriately touched a friend or partner. Respect other’s tools.

[]         IT’S ALL ABOUT MISE EN PLACE

Others in the kitchen will judge you on how organized you are, how set your station is, and how well thought out your work system might be. Everyone in the kitchen knows that mise en place is the foundation for success and those who are not organized, not ready – will bring down the rest of the group.

[]         CLEAN AS YOU GO

Efficient cooks work clean. You can look at a cook’s station and know immediately if they are capable of handling a busy, stressful night. Good cooks work clean and they take pride in this fact. Whenever there is a spare minute, a good cook is tidying up their station, washing down counters, sanitizing tools, refolding aprons, and taking a visual inventory of their set-up. This is how efficient cooks roll and how they maintains calm during the busiest times of a service shift.

[]         WASTED MOVEMENT WEARS THIN ON EVERYONE

Back to mise en place. The best cooks set-up their workstation so that only a pivot step is needed to reach pans, mise en place, towels, wines for reduction, plates, seasonings, and POS tickets. Wasted steps wear your out – plan to avoid them.

[]         LET THEM KNOW WHERE YOU ARE

Kitchens are busy, even chaotic at times. Although people should never run, they are walking as quickly as they can. Cooks rarely walk empty handed, so as they move with determination they probably have something fragile, sharp, hot, or wet. Professional cooks always announce their presence to avoid collisions: “behind, corner, hot, heads up, lifting, or knocking when entering or leaving a walk-in cooler – all of these cures are critical steps in keeping a kitchen safe.

[]         KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS

It is the cook’s responsibility to know the ingredients he or she works with. Know what they look like, where and how they are stored, what their purpose might be, what their flavor profile is, how to determine level of freshness. Blank stares when a cook asks how to determine the difference between a top round and 109 rib, broccoli from broccolini or broccoli raahb, or cilantro from parsley are a forewarning that anger and disgust are not far behind. Study and inquire early on, but make sure that product ID becomes your new language.

[]         KNOW YOUR COOKING METHODS and PROCESSES

Sure recipes are important and should be part of the control systems in an operation that help to ensure consistent costs and quality, however, it is not that difficult to memorize and consistently use cooking methods, as they should be. If you know how to braise- you can braise anything; if you know how to grill-you can grill anything; and if you know how to finish a sauce monte au beurre – then it is second nature to do so.

[]         PRIORITIZE YOUR WORK

When given a series of tasks to perform – a competent cook begins by determining the time it takes for each product and/or step, and which item feeds into another preparation. Set your prep sheet up in this manner – make it a habit.

[]         RESPECT EVERYONE’S SPACE

People, in any situation, require enough space to perform or feel comfortable. Those same people will fill that space in a manner that works for them. If their space is infringed on then they become less efficient and frustrated and the result is tension and less than stellar performance. When a cook identifies his or her work area then respect it and stay behind your own line of demarcation.

[]         WORK FAST, BUT DON’T SACRIFICE QUALITY

One of the critical skills in a kitchen is a “sense of urgency”. There will always be too much work to accomplish in too short a period of time – it still needs to get done. The solution is to organize, prioritize, and learn to work faster. At the same time there can never be a slip in quality or acceptance of mediocre work. Cut faster; learn to multi-task, work from lists, set goals, hustle, hustle, and hustle. Nine times out of ten chefs will state that one serious shortcoming of culinary school graduates is that they don’t know how to multi-task or hustle. Act like your life depends on getting everything done.

[]         LEARN THE CHAIN OF COMMAND

The kitchen chain of command (brigade) dates back to the days of Escoffier. The system developed in the 1880’s is still appropriate today. Of most importance is that cooks understand and respect the chain of command: who does what, who is responsible, who to go to in certain situations, and above all else know that in the moment: “Yes Chef” is the only answer.

[]         TRUST IS EARNED – IT IS NOT A GIVEN

As a new cook keep in mind that you have yet to earn the trust of established members of the team. It may take time for this trust to occur, but it will only take a second to lose. Trust is based on how you act, perform, and respect others in the moment. Trust must be earned again, and again – every day. Without trust the kitchen comes to a standstill.

[]         TAKE NOTES – REMAIN A STUDENT

Keep a small spiral notebook in your pocket. Write down what you learn every day – no mater how small – write it down. How many eggplants does it take to make parmigiana for 150 guests? How much stock does it take to make a quart of demi? How does the chef want the salmon portioned? How is that new menu feature plated? What is the shelf life of fresh round fish on ice? How did the chef determine what to charge for that feature? What does the station map for sauté look like?

[]         EVERY PLACE DOES THINGS DIFFERENTLY

You should always assume that what you learned in school or on the job at another operation is a correct way of accomplishing certain tasks, however, “When In Rome – Do as The Romans Do.” A new operation, a new chef, and a new manager – these individuals have their own way of accomplishing tasks, preparing items, and plating dishes. Know that in this operation that is how it should be done. As time goes by you may be able to offer your personal ideas and experiences, and then – feel free. But today you are working in Rome.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

Also: check out my articles on the American Culinary Federation Official Blog: www.wearechefs.com

and… articles for culinary educators on the website for The Center for Advancement of Foodservice Education (CAFÉ) – Gold Medal Classroom – Think Tank

www.cafemeetingplace.com

 

 

 

IN THE KITCHEN: EVERYONE’S DIFFERENT – EVERYONE’S THE SAME

14 Saturday Apr 2018

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hen

This story may not be true – but it could be.

“We become not a melting pot but a beautiful mosaic. Different people, different beliefs, different yearnings, different hopes, different dreams.”

-Jimmy Carter

Chef Michel looked around his kitchen and reflected: “What an incredibly diverse group of people who are keeping this kitchen afloat.” The chef knows that what he sees is absolutely true for every other kitchen from coast to coast. When you look past the façade and start to dig just a little bit you see individuals who are just as complex as you, just as unique, just as troubled at times, and just as fulfilled at others.

Andre his sous chef was originally from Montreal, Quebec. His father came from France in the early seventies as an architect. He met the woman who would become his wife while working in a small architectural firm across from McGill University in the city center. She was a barista in a coffee shop while studying psychology at McGill. Andre’s father patronized the coffee shop every morning hoping to catch her eye and start a conversation that might carry him through the day. They were married before she completed her studies and gave birth to Andre shortly after. As was the case with many parents – they had plans for their son, plans that did not include becoming a chef, but Andre grew to become independent and insisted that this was what he wanted to do. He worked as a commis at some great Montreal restaurants including Toque and eventually took two years to stagiere with some great chefs in France before arriving in the States and eventually finding his way to Chef Michel’s New York City hotel kitchen.

Bruno had worked on the line of many New York restaurants since his late teenage years. He began, as many did, washing dishes after high school and quickly fell in love with the kitchen environment. Bruno had no desire to attend college and knew that his family could never afford to send him anyway. Besides, the kitchen seemed just right to him. Bruno’s brother had enlisted in the Marines when be turned 19 and was currently on his third deployment in Afghanistan. Bruno had always admired his brother and felt somewhat lost without his counsel. He hadn’t seen his brother for more than 9 months and constantly worried about his safety. To have some peace of mind Bruno immersed himself in work – always volunteering for extra shifts. When he was cranking out quality food in the kitchen he was able to feel complete and for that time able to put his brother in a safe spot in the back of his mind.

Miguel and Rodrigues were brothers in spirit. They had both come from Southern Mexico – escaping the pressure to move to a life of crime in an effort to support themselves and their families in Mexico. They were poor back at home, but incredibly strong and respectful members of their extended families. They grew up together and had a dream of coming to the U.S. They both wanted to approach the process legally, but found it cumbersome and challenging, so they paid to cross the border and start their journey with illegal documents. Chef Michel took them at their word that their documents were legitimate, but in his heart he suspected that they weren’t. Miguel and Rodrigues were fantastic workers, always showing up on time and never complaining about their duties as dishwashers and occasional prep cooks. They made sure that cooks had plenty of peeled potatoes, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, chopped parsley and snipped herbs, as well as shucked oysters and clams used in the Hotel Bar. Everyone respected these two.

Naomi was originally born in Nairobi, Africa to a family of privilege. Her father was a well-respected doctor who had received his medical degree from the University of Buffalo. He chose to return to his country and operate a clinic for those countrymen who could otherwise ill-afford quality medical care. His daughter was smart and progressive. He knew that she could never be satisfied with the typical life provided in Nairobi and worked his contacts to find a link in America for her to study the craft that she desired – Naomi truly wanted to become a world-class pastry chef. After many months of communication Naomi’s father made arrangements for her to attend the Culinary Institute of America. Naomi was now on her externship with Chef Michel.

Jake was a tough kid. He grew up in Brooklyn, hated school, lived in a small 3rd floor apartment with his parents, and grew tired of a steady diet of odd jobs, a little shop lifting, and even a short stint in juvenile detention for helping to steal a car. His parents were frustrated with their son and his inability to get his life together. At the age of 17 he dropped out of school and took a job as an assistant breakfast cook in a neighborhood diner. The lead cook – Greta, was a tough as nails Greek woman who took it upon herself to straighten Jake out. She pushed him towards dependability and taught him how to become a pretty decent breakfast cook. After a few short months Jake was able to run a breakfast shift by himself – he loved it! Now 19, Jake had moved on to Chef Michel’s kitchen as a prep cook. For the first time he was given a real chef’s uniform – one with his name embroidered over the pocket. When he moved on Greta gave him his first French knife and with tears in her eyes – wished him well. Jake was learning more every day and felt, for the first time in his life, that he had a purpose and a future.

Jana was probably Chef Michel’s most talented cook. At first she had a bit of a chip on her shoulder because she had already worked her way through a handful of restaurants where being a woman was not an advantage. She had put up with a load of crap from her male counterparts and as such grew a tough skin out of necessity. She put on a good face, but underneath felt abused and totally demeaned by other cooks bullying and sexual innuendo. It would be a few more years before this type of abuse would become totally unacceptable, but for now she was hoping that this new gig would be different.

Chef Michel made a commitment a long time ago to never allow inappropriate conduct of this type in his kitchen and told Jana that things would be different. So far, the chef had lived up to the promise and Jana was really starting to come into her own as a terrific line cook. Chef Michel saw in her – his next sous chef.

Jamal was a young black kid from the Bronx. He was smart and determined. Too many of his friends had taken a wrong turn in life, joined gangs, got mixed up with drugs and scrapes with the law. His cousin, at the age of 15 was shot outside of his family apartment and was left with numerous physical and emotional challenges as a result. Jamal wanted to be successful and needed a chance to get out of the hostile environment that surrounded him. He had attended a Vocational Program in the Bronx that specialized in cooking and as a result found a job working in Chef Michel’s kitchen. The chef took an instant liking to Jamal and started him working prep until last month when he moved an excited young aspiring cook up to the line on the fry station. Jamal was determined to learn and excel – he saw this as his way out.

Maria was a single mom who lived with her mother and seven year old son in a small Brooklyn apartment. Maria had two jobs – breakfast cook in Chef Michel’s kitchen and evening line cook at a restaurant called “Prune” in Brooklyn. She walked two miles to work in Chef Michel’s kitchen each day. She was, in Chef Michel’s mind, one of the best breakfast cooks he had ever worked with. She always arrived on time, her mise en place was impeccable, and the quality of her cooking was only surpassed by her speed. Along with another extern from culinary school she could easily prepare the 150-200 breakfasts every morning. Maria’s mom took care of her son who rarely saw his mom – she never complained but the chef knew it tore her up to be the absent mother.

There were numerous others including Hispanic and Ecuadorian cooks and dishwashers, and a very diverse group in the dining room including Russian and Jamaican servers who were exceptional at their craft. This was a melting pot environment that only required a few important traits – the desire to work hard, be dependable, function as a team, and exhibit a passion for food.

Chef Michel looked around the operation for a few more moments and realized that although each person had a unique story, they all were able to come together as one cohesive unit – a team committed to doing a great job and support each other in the process. They laughed, they high-fived, pushed each other when necessary and always jumped in to assist when someone was in the weeds. Chef Michel smiled knowing that in a kitchen everyone was different, yet everyone was the same in their desire to perform well. This is why he loved the kitchen so much – knowing that everyone has a connection regardless of the unique history that follows him or her.

I want to thank my friend Jeff Wager for sharing a word unknown to me at first: “Sonder” – the inspiration for this article.

Sonder: “the realization that each passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.”

-The Urban Dictionary

The kitchen is the great equalizer where everybody has a purpose and everyone can be a part of something great.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Be Something Special – Be a Cook

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting and Training

COOKS AND CHEFS – WHO WE ARE – WHO WE COULD BE

28 Tuesday Nov 2017

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Painted in Waterlogue

There are many questions today when individuals involved in a work culture try to define and justify who they are. Times have changed, expectations have evolved, and what was once assumed acceptable has come into question. Not to make excuses, but it was long assumed that ignorance was bliss and tradition made actions acceptable. The following statement was strategically placed on my chef’s office door for as long as I can remember – it was a statement that, for all intents and purposes, tried to explain who we (those who tied on an apron and worked in the kitchen) were and unintentionally justify whatever inappropriate action may have taken place:

“Yes, we can be hard at times, but we are very sensitive underneath. We can receive 99 rave reviews, but it is the one unhappy guest who keeps us up at night. This is the way we are. Food and a person’s reaction to how we prepare it means everything. It is more than our job, it is our life.”

-The Kitchen Staff

Now, let’s be clear – I wrote this and I believed in it (and to some extent – still do). I felt (feel) that those who are career cooks take their job seriously, sweat the details, and strive to prepare great food that makes everyone happy. The problem with this statement, as I now see it, is that it indirectly infers that our actions and personality flaws are justifiable because we care about what we do.

Cooks are a unique breed, and good cooks tend to be eccentric, sometimes moody, and crusty, oftentimes profane, unforgiving, egocentric, and uncompromising in an effort to reach an unrealistic goal of perfection. Chefs, at least in the past, were known to demean coworkers, yell and curse, and portray themselves as all knowing while everyone else need to be subservient to this belief. Of course, there are plenty examples of great kitchens where this is not the case, yet I think that most of us have worked in and maybe even contributed to those hostile environments.

Many cooks have bullied, approached coworkers with disrespect, sexually harassed those few women who really tried to be solid contributors to quality cooking, and made life difficult for far too many who were just trying to do a good job. If you have not been part of this then I applaud your experience in the kitchen, but I would assure those who are reading that this has and continues to happen every day in kitchens across the country. To many of us, it felt like a right of passage – the bullying of new kitchen recruits, the innuendo around women cooks and service staff, the aggressive use of four letter words, and the verbal attack on workers who made mistakes or failed to meet the standards of the operation was all part of the “way it is”.

There is little doubt that this happens in many industries as we have found out in recent weeks, but I am not sure that it is as blatantly accepted at any higher level than in the restaurant business.

Recently, Chef Tom Colicchio wrote an open letter to chefs and cooks calling them out on generations of inappropriate behavior and the need to change. As we struggle with ways to make our industry more attractive to young folks and find a model of operation that helps to retain the best of the best, this environment of harassment must be on the table.

Chef Colicchio’s open letter:

https://medium.com/@tcolicchio/an-open-letter-to-male-chefs-742ca722e8f2

What makes me most proud of my four plus decades of work in restaurants also points to areas within our culture that can no longer be tolerated. It is up to each of us – chefs, cooks, culinary students, faculty members, restaurateurs, dining room managers, and service staff to insist on a different environment that is just as demanding, just as focused on striving for excellence, just as connected with preparing and serving great food, but an environment of support and inclusion. Put aside the fact that this is the law – it is the right thing to do.

Here are some thoughts for cooks and chefs (myself included):

[]         UNDERSTAND AND APPRECIATE DIFFERENCES

What makes us different makes each of us interesting and valuable. If we take the time to listen and appreciate this difference we will grow as individuals and as cooks.

[]         PERFORMANCE HAS NO GENDER

Cooking is not a man’s job; being a chef is not a man’s job; becoming an effective restaurateur is not a man’s job; service is not a woman’s job – in all cases performance is the differentiator. We need to stop identifying a job by gender and simply look at who is qualified through performance to be effective in any role.

[]         PERFORMANCE HAS NO ETHNICITY

I have always taken pride in the diversity within restaurants where I have worked. The role of ethnicity in a restaurant kitchen or dining room is sometimes very hard to define. Diversity makes any business stronger and rewarding for all involved. Ethnicity on the other hand is not a requirement in connection with the restaurant concept. Do Italian restaurants need Italian born cooks, a Chinese restaurant – native Chinese? As is the case with gender in restaurants it is all about performance.

[]         OPEN MINDS LEAD TO GREATER KNOWLEDGE AND UNDERSTANDING

When a restaurant is allowed to be a melting pot of ethnicity, race, gender, age, and beliefs it will become a place where every player stands to constantly learn and grow as an employee and a person. The chance to build an understanding of what makes people different and what makes them the same is a priceless gift.

[]         TREAT OTHERS AS YOU WOULD LIKE TO BE TREATED

This time tested statement has never been truer. Good people who look at every situation to interact with others in this fashion are better for it. If we all stopped before we bullied, harassed, belittled, or mocked another and asked: “How would I feel in this situation” I am confident that the answer and the action would be positive.

“There is ample data to show that the first two weeks on the job are the most critical for young cooks.  This is when they are most vulnerable to criticism, belittlement, disrespect, and feeling uncomfortable in their new surroundings. Some simply choose to walk away and look for a more accepting work environment.” Can we (the restaurant business) afford to turn people away who might very well become excellent contributors to success?

[]         THERE IS A WRONG TYPE OF UNCOMFORTABLE

There is validity to the statement that if people are to grow we need to put them in a position where they are uncomfortable with their skills and abilities. This “push” will quite often help people to take a leap of faith and push themselves to exceed expectations. This is an “uncomfortable” that can have real benefits for everyone involved. There is, however, an “uncomfortable” where people tend to feel inadequate, abused, and in a position to do or say something that goes beyond their personal life “compass”. This is not acceptable and bears no positive outcome. This is against the law and simply wrong. Forget that this may have been the way it WAS in restaurants – it can no longer be the way it IS.

[]         RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT

This is what it comes down to – respect your fellow employees for their gender, race, ethnicity, age, personal preferences, and beliefs. When you look to your left and to your right you will see a fellow employee who is in a position to work collaboratively in the process of achieving a goal. They either have or have the potential to gain the skills necessary to help achieve this goal and as such are equal to you in the moment. You deserve their respect and they deserve yours.

[]         EQUALITY MEANS EQUALITY

We have all likely been guilty at some level of exercising discrimination, yet at the same time the restaurant business remains one that opens many doors for any entry level employee to reach the pinnacle of a career. We may not even realize what we have done in the past: thinking that women are best in the bake shop or garde manger; older cooks are not suited to work on the line; non-English speaking employees are automatically scheduled for dishwashing or prep where we never need to worry about helping them improve their ability to communicate in an English speaking kitchen; or women make the best servers and men make the best managers. These are all assumptions based on nothing but false perceptions and maybe a bit of insecurity.

Just as the dishwasher in a restaurant might very well be a restaurant owner in twenty years, so too might any employee thrive in any position that we train them for and give them an opportunity to give their all.

This is a time for the restaurant industry to take a hard look at itself and collaborate on the creation of a new dynamic, one that will prove to be attractive to the very best workers, workers with a desire to perform and contribute to success. In 2018 and beyond we should all look at us and check our approach to these challenges.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

THE LINE COOK’S ADRENALINE RUSH

11 Saturday Nov 2017

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Painted in Waterlogue

What is it about working the line in a busy restaurant that is so attractive to cooks? Why, with all of the challenges that a career in the kitchen brings are people, especially those who are younger, willing to set those challenges aside for the experience of standing in front of a battery of full-throttle ranges? The answer goes beyond the enjoyment of creating, beyond the pleasures derived from cooking, and far beyond the experience of working in a team – the answer is the adrenaline rush.

“A feeling of excitement, stimulation and enhanced physical ability produced when the body secretes large amounts of adrenaline in response to a sudden perceived or induced stress situation.”

-Collins Dictionary

Those who have worked in this environment in the past or who tie on an apron today know exactly what I am referring to, but to those who are scratching their heads – here is a depiction of what it is like for many line cooks.

  1. THE WAKE UP

It would be nice to say that cooks can separate their work from the rest of their lives, but the intensity of line work typically weighs pretty heavy on those who take on the role. Knowing the shear amount of work required to “get ready”, the unpredictability of how the night will go, and anticipation of the pressure that unfolds as tickets start spitting off the POS printer is difficult to push out of your mind. Wake-up brings with it an active mind as well as a few knots in a line cook’s stomach.

  1. PREP AND ANTICIPATION

The adrenaline begins to build on the way to work as a line cook wrestles mentally with what might lay ahead. Walking through the back door and changing into hounds-tooth pants and white jacket a cook begins the quick pace of station prep. Staple items were likely prepped during the early shift: stocks, clarified butter, braised items, roasts in the oven, vegetables peeled, shrimp peeled, steaks cut, etc. What is left is all of the finish and detail work: sauces, mincing herbs, blanching and shocking vegetables, seasoning pans, blanching pommes frites, picking scallops, trimming steaks, setting up station maps – details, details. The line cook likely arrived before the shift began just to stay ahead of the game. The 3-4 hours before service fly by quickly as anxiety builds. The last hour is when the adrenaline kicks in allowing the cook to pick up the pace and feel that high similar to when those endorphins kick in for distance runners.

  1. CLUTCH TIME

Those last few minutes before the dining room opens are filled with a mix of doubt and gratification: “Will I be ready? Yes – I’m loaded for bear and ready to rock out!” That mix of angst and being set is likely similar to what a professional football or baseball player feels just before running out on the field.

  1. PRE-MEAL TENSION

Those last few minutes are taken up with the chef checking stations and tasting sauces to those last minute questions from service staff during pre-meal. Line cooks that are ready can sense a bit of calm come over them while those who still have details to attend to are really on edge.

  1. THE GAME BEGINS

Watching a line at this point is interesting – cooks are on their toes, maybe pacing or bouncing a bit, tongs are clicking together, large amounts of water or Gatorade are being consumed, and side towels are folded and refolded. Everyone is waiting for the sound of the printer tapping out those first orders. A few minutes after the restaurant opens the orders begin to trickle in – the line is ready, on it, locked and loaded, anxious, willing and able. Everyone knows the pace will quicken soon, but that adrenaline friend is waiting just below the surface, ready to kick into full battle mode.

  1. THAT IMPOSSIBLE WINDOW

Typically around the 7 p.m. mark restaurants are really humming. This is prime time, the real deal, a time when all hell breaks loose and every cook knows that there is a fine line between a well-orchestrated evening and disaster. Adrenaline is a requirement now – remember – the cook has already put in a good six hours in of non-stop work. Line cooks are sweating, the expeditor is calling out orders at a frantic clip, cooks are responding back with order acknowledgement, flames are leaping from pans and lapping around steaks on the grill, sauté pans bang on the range top, oven doors open and close constantly, and plates are assembled, moved up to the pass and finished by the expeditor always looking for servers to move items out to tables. There it is – Mr. Adrenaline kicks in! Suddenly the fog seems to dissipate, the cook’s focus is pinpoint perfect, all extraneous conversation is blocked out, and the line begins to resemble the efficiency of an assembly line and the grace of an orchestra reaching the pinnacle of a piece of music. Muscles are back to peak performance, heartbeats increase, those aching feet seem to be fine at the moment, and despite the intensity of service a smile comes over the cook’s face. This is what the cook lives for – this is the action that brings a cook back every day.

  1. WINDING DOWN IS IMPOSSIBLE

As the witching hour passes, as the printer seems to kick into slow mode and the expeditor turns over the reins to the other side of the line – every cook feels almost more nervous than when the line was over-extended. This is actually when mistakes are made because the body and mind are still working at 7 p.m. chaos speed not willing to try and slow down. Cook’s start to fill in spare seconds with a little prep for the next day, cleaning, and self-assessment of tonight’s performance. It will likely take a good hour or so after the dining room closes before the line cooks punch, at the same time Mr. Adrenaline keeps whispering in the cook’s ear that he is not ready to pull back on the energy. This is why cooks typically continue the action at a local bar for the next couple hours to try and put the body’s gasoline to rest. They have little choice – the fire is still burning and it will take time to whimper out.

  1. DECOMPRESS AND A CLEAN SLATE

An hour into after work activities every line cook begins to decompress, put water on the fire, and pass the time with stories about the night’s service. For the first time today the line cook is able to stop stressing about what will come and relax just a bit. Mr. Adrenaline can be put to bed for another day. The cook knows that the work was made easier with this assistance and depends that this friend will arrive on time again tomorrow.

  1. REWIND

Finally the cook crashes to bed and maybe a few hours of sleep – tomorrow will be more of the same and with the help of adrenaline another high-energy night will be a success. As tired as the cook might be he or she continues to relish how this energy-laden window of time on the line provides a sense of satisfaction – something to seek out again, and again.

This type of cooking is as much sport as it is art, as much borderline high anxiety as it is discipline – this is the flash of excitement that pulls cooks to the kitchen line.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

Restaurant Consulting and Training

WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO BE A LINE COOK IN THE 60’S AND 70’S – PART II

14 Saturday Oct 2017

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frenchie

Frenchie – The Statler Hilton butcher – 1970

Don the banquet chef had his full crew in place by 10 a.m. – the work in front of them was daunting. With 12 events scheduled for the day culminating in the evening banquet for 1,200 there would be no time to waste. Fortunately, much of the prep work had been accomplished over the past two days, (potatoes washed and oiled, green beans snapped and blanched, salad greens washed and spun dry, salad garnishes done, 1,500 clams casino prepped, 2,000 risotto croquettes ready for breading, mountains of mushroom caps peeled and stuffed with duxelles, canapé spreads done, parsley washed and chopped for garnish, etc.), but the finishing and service coordination would still be monumental. Six of those events were just coffee hours in the early afternoon and two were private luncheons in the Beef Baron Restaurant, so that work would be handled by the a ‘la carte line and service staff – the other four were dinners that would happen simultaneously. Two dinners were for less than 50 persons and Don assigned those to his most accomplished cook to handle entirely, the final two were the banquet for 1,200 and another for 150 – both had the same menu (a stroke of luck). Don was left with three cooks to take care of these larger events. The Executive Chef would, of course, be there at crunch time to help with plating while the sous chef would focus on support for the a ‘la carte restaurant.

As was the case with any influx of substantial banquets the hotel would bring in temporary service staff members who were hired through an outside company. For the two larger banquets this would involve 40 servers and 3 captains who were well trained, but not necessarily familiar with the Statler. Don didn’t worry much about this since the maitre’d and banquet manager were seasoned veterans of the hotel – this was their challenge, not his.

As time drew near for service, Don checked in with his trusted cooks to make sure that everything was in order for the two smaller events and all of the mise was in order for the two main dinners. The menu was very typical for the era – a standard array of passed hors d’ oeuvres – three hot (Clams casino, stuffed mushroom caps, and risotto and cheese croquettes) and a full array of cold canapés that came from garde manger. For the sit down dinner they would pre-set a tossed salad, plate the prime rib with baked potato and sauté green beans and almonds, and have the service staff follow up with table side finishing of au jus. In classic Statler Hilton style – Patsy, the pastry chef had prepared logs of Baked Alaska complete with house made spumoni ice cream, genoise cake, and beautifully piped meringue.

Staff meal was always a rush on days like this and as was usually the case servers and cooks were provided with the tasty, meaty bones from the prime ribs, baked potatoes and a left over vegetable from yesterdays events. Almost 80 staff members devoured their dinner in about 20 minutes at the 4:30 mark.

At 6 p.m. hors d’ oeuvres were being passed in the reception area outside of the Grand Ballroom and a secondary, much smaller room for the party of 150. While this was taking place the service kitchen was systematically plating dressed salads on 8 inch plates that were spread out on the kitchens more than 60 feet of stainless steel counter space, then to be transferred to Queen Anne carts so that service staff could access them quickly. In a few moments those salads would be pre-set on the 140 round tables of ten in the two banquet rooms. When guests arrived the first course would be there to greet them. The Grand Ballroom, in particular, was spectacular with crystal chandeliers, gilded railings, an opera house style mezzanine surrounding the room, lush carpeting in the colors of the hotel, doubled and ironed linen on the tables, sterling silver flatware, and a set plate emblazoned with the hotels distinctive logo. First impressions were very vivid. A string quartet was playing in the reception area during hors d’ oeuvres and would move to the dining room as soon as the doors were open.

Back in the kitchen, now that salads were taken care of, Don was directing the set-up of four service lines as cooks re-arranged the stainless tables for plating. At one end of each line there would be a carver for the beef (back in those days we could never use an electric slicer – everything was sliced by hand). Slicing would begin approximately 5 minutes before plating and then would continue until all 1,350 plus guests were served. Every pot washer, dish washer, and spare bus person was recruited for plating since Don would need 12 additional hands plus 4 runners to restock during plating. Don would handle slicing along with two of his cooks and the Executive Chef. If a ‘la carte was not too busy, then the sous chef would also jump in to assist. The assistant maitre’d became the expeditor to direct service staff during pick-up while the banquet manager saw to the orchestration of 40 servers out front.

plates

Plates were stacked 20 high in six rows on each service line. Pans of bakers, green beans, and the first run of sliced beef were ready on one side of each line awaiting the “go” signal from the banquet manager. When the order was given, the symmetrical process of each person positioning their piece of the puzzle on plates began. After the first minute or so a rhythm was apparent as hands never crossed and plates were assembled in exact duplicate, covered and transferred to server trays. It was a thing of beauty to watch as server after server stepped forward to receive ten plates stacked securely on their trays. These servers were pros with graceful confidence and strong arms and backs as they hoisted the trays on one shoulder and marched to waiting tray stands strategically placed throughout the ballroom. As each plate was presented to a guest a second server followed with a gooseneck silver sauceboat filled with au jus. A precise ladle of au jus was placed on each person’s slice of prime rib as the presentation was deemed complete. This process continued over the next 25 minutes, table after table. Within a half hour, the kitchen and dining room staff had served 1,350 people.

With no time to waste, as soon as the last plate left the kitchen, staff members were busy washing down tables and transferring leftover food to carts for return to the kitchen. The sous chef had pulled the 140 logs of Baked Alaska from the pastry chef’s freezer 15 minutes earlier so that they had time to temper a bit before slicing. Desserts at large events at the Statler were always a highlight for guests. In the service kitchen each log was transferred to a rectangular silver platter and topped with granulated sugar. The maitre’d was stationed at the entrance to the dining room and was ready with a torch. The Executive chef stood in front of him with a carafe filled with heated brandy. The string quartet stopped playing as the banquet manager took to the microphone and announced the arrival of dessert. The lights in the ballroom were dimmed till the room was nearly black and at that precise moment the parade began. Server after server stopped for a few seconds at the exit from the kitchen while the chef doused the top of each Baked Alaska with brandy and the maitre’d lit the Baked Alaska. Imagine the scene as 140 flaming Baked Alaska’s were paraded around the perimeter of the darkened ballroom, delivered to a waiting tray stand by each table, sliced tableside and placed strategically in front of each guest. It never failed – the entire room erupted in applause. This was something that never got old – it made all of us in the kitchen feel proud of what we did for a living. The servers were experts at presenting this part of the meal as something to be remembered.

After a solid hour of cleanup Don and his crew were untying their aprons and locking away their knife kits. It was 11 p.m. – Don had been here since 6 in the morning and now he was ready to call it a day. He had managed to finish the two six packs of beer and bottle of vodka during his shift while never showing any signs of intoxication. Apparently his large frame was a friend in this regard. Even with that extraordinary amount of alcohol in his system he didn’t turn down the shift drink offered by the chef to everyone just before the kitchen lights were dimmed for a few hours until the pastry chef and breakfast crew arrived to start all over again.

Tomorrow would bring more banquets, house guests looking for a hearty breakfast, an enormous amount of planning, and all of the unknown challenges that occur every day in a busy kitchen. Some of these challenges are handled easily while others can push a kitchen team to the brink of disaster. Wait and see.

**The next installment of this story of kitchen life in the 60’s and 70’s will be released on Thursday, October 19.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

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