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THE WINE EXPERIENCE /THE WINE CULTURE – A CHEF’S PERSPECTIVE

29 Thursday Jun 2017

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Is it possible that an area like the North Fork of Long Island could become the next serious wine region of the country? What differentiates the Napa Valley, Paso Robles and Sonoma County of California from the Willamette Valley of Oregon, Walla Walla, Washington from the Snake River Valley of Idaho, and the Finger Lakes of New York, or the North Fork of Long Island? All of these areas and many more are becoming common fodder for conversation among those who are connected, in some fashion, to a growing interest in wine. In many cases, these picturesque parts of the U.S. have become meccas for wine enthusiasts, and attractions for vacationers and weekend wine revelers.

The wine experience has taken hold of the U.S. as never before, and with this need for wine entertainment comes a real thirst for knowledge about this agricultural product. Enthusiasts line the highways and back roads of agriculturally rich areas whose soil and weather is conducive for the growth of grape varietals and production of wines that reflect this terroir. Astute winemakers have taken the opportunity to convert their grape farms into destinations with spectacular buildings, tasting rooms, event facilities, restaurants, and gift shops. Limos holding small groups of wine drinkers taking advantage of designated drivers and bus loads of wine tourists have transformed once quiet farm lands into destinations for adults that rival the excitement of the theme parks that brought them thrills in their youth. Weddings, reunions, business events, team building exercises, and corporate retreats are now the core business that is supported by the foundation of wine.

So, what is this phenomena and what does the future hold for those who make a life of wine? In the past the rule of thumb was that it takes a large fortune to make a small fortune in wine. Have winemakers found a solution to this limiting reality that may have kept all but the truly serious away from wine making – Is something lost in the process?

A wine culture differs from a wine experience in that those involved in the culture are as passionate about the agricultural product and the process of wine making as is a chef about the source of ingredients and transitioning them through cooking, an artisan bread baker is about wheat and how when mixed with water, salt and yeast can make one of life’s greatest treasures, a cheese maker is to the process of fermenting milk curd, and a farmer is to the care for his or her crops and the soil that they are nurtured in. In other words, those involved in the culture of wine are totally dedicated to this incredible, ever-changing, product that must be fully understood before it can be controlled at any level. Those involved in the wine experience are astute business people who understand the draw of wine and its potential (there is nothing wrong with this).

I have spent the last few days with family in the North Fork of Long Island. The area is a far cry from the intense hustle and bustle of the Long Island that I knew years ago. The commuter traffic of Nassau County moving en masse to New York City for the workweek is replaced with ocean vistas, views of the Long Island Sound, beaches, and lots and lots of grapes. These once fertile farm lands that were filled with cauliflower and potatoes have been replaced with turf farms and vineyards. The result is a thriving community of wine makers, increased evidence of wealth, and a totally different type of traffic.

My first reaction was to dismiss Long Island wine (based on my non-existent knowledge of the product) as something that couldn’t possibly be worthy of consideration.   For years I held the same feelings about wines from the Finger Lakes – “these could not be serious wines that would be worthy of consideration on a restaurant menu”. Traveling from vineyard to vineyard I was struck by the “experience” portion of a wine community – noting that many of these winemakers had done a spectacular job of creating the destination feel of a place that was certainly worthy of a visit, but could the wines be any good? My mission was to discover the underlying wine culture of the region beyond the wine experience. As a chef, were the wines of Long Island strong enough to hold up to the scrutiny of wine enthusiasts who patronize established restaurants? I had already discovered, on previous trips to the Finger Lakes that these Central New York wines, although limited (for the most part) to certain white wine varietals, were actually very good (especially the Rieslings) – now I wanted to spend some time with those produced on the North Fork.

Keep in mind that my wine knowledge is acceptable as a chef, but certainly not anywhere near as sophisticated as a sommelier or even a true wine advocate. My approach was from the standpoint of a typical chef who was in search of new wines to complement a restaurant menu – something that I would enjoy suggesting to a restaurant operator or a thirsty, and discriminating guest.

So…this is what I found:

[]         THE TERROIR

Although most relate terroir to the quality or makeup of the soil, terroir can also include the climate, topography, solar days, and other unique factors in the environment that make the growing of particular grapes unique. Much of the soil on North Fork of Long Island is sandy, with clay and stone; the land is flat with a significant number of solar days during the growing season, and with the added spice of salt air.

[]         THE GRAPES

Many of the wines from the region tend to be white, but the reds that I tasted were quite excellent and worthy of a position on any mid to high-end restaurant menu. A broad swatch of grapes and wines were prevalent including Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Vigonier, Chardonnay, and some strong entrants in the sparkling wine arena. Reds ran the gamut from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec.

Painted in Waterlogue

[]         THE WINE MAKERS

Making wine is not a job – it is a calling that requires a lifetime commitment to the soil, the grape, and the process. The wine maker must have a palate that ensures that each year’s vintage share commonality with previous years while maintaining it’s unique character as defined by all of the controllable and uncontrollable factors that impact on the finished product. To this end, like with cooking, the wine maker learns more every year and matures with his or her craft. What I found in my brief encounter with Long Island wines is that the same dedication that is evident in France, Italy, California, Washington State, Oregon, and other areas is prevalent in the North Fork. Richard Olsen – Harbich and Kip Bedell from Bedell Vineyards, Gilles Martin from Sherwood House, and Anthony Sannino from Sannino Bella Vita have wine flowing freely through their veins as is evidenced through some really outstanding wines. There are more than 100 others who work with the grapes grown on the North and South Fork of Long Island – something that would take me many summers to research, but if these three are any indication then I would say, with confidence, that there is truly a wine culture building on Long Island.

[]         THE EXPERIENCE

For those who have had the pleasure of visiting vineyards in France and Italy you will attest to the lack of pretention that dominates the majority of wine houses. Farm families, some with well-trained winemakers and others with individuals who learned from their fathers and grandfathers produce the majority of wines from these countries. The look of the vineyard and tasting room (excluding some of the grand chateaus) is minimalist and focused on function vs. form. This is not the case in the wine regions of the U.S. The areas where wine has become recognizable to the consumer are destinations where a person can enjoy the vistas of grape vines, the flavors of a well appointed tasting room, the service usually reserved for full-service restaurants, food to complement the wine, ample photo opportunities, grand halls for events, manicured grounds with flowers in full-bloom, and even gift shops that could thrive in a downtown setting as well as on a grape farm. Long Island is no exception to this U.S. standard. Although the grand estates with columned entranceways and imported Italian tile may not be as prevalent as you would find in Napa or Sonoma, there is still plenty of sizzle. From the over-the-top glitz of crystal chandeliers to the rustic hand-hewn beams that infer loads of history – The North Fork provides it all. At the same time there are still enough of those unpretentious vineyards that state with pride that their focus is the wine – not the setting.

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[]         THE PRODUCT

If I had to state something simply about my experience with the product it would be “thumbs up”. From an exceptional Malbec and Petite Verdot at Bedell, to a terrific Sauvignon Blanc at Sherwood House, and even the refreshing summer Rose’s at Croteaux (there are many choices at this house that is the only U.S. vineyard that makes rose exclusively), I found all of the wines to be very good, and even exceptional in many cases. Even Robert Parker has given his over 90 score blessing to many of the wines of the North Fork.

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In a nutshell, my limited knowledge of wines was peaked and my palate more than satisfied. North Fork wines are not cheap, but definitely of high quality. My summation is that any restaurant and chef would be well served by adding a handful of North Fork wines to their list.   Long Island is now on my list and I hope to continue my research in the years to come. If you are looking for a great mini-vacation or an excuse to do some research and development for your restaurant then make sure that you include a trip to the North Fork. Well worth the trip.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

“Life is too short to drink inferior wine”

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

ATTENTION COOKS: APPRECIATE FARM TO GLASS

02 Sunday Nov 2014

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Allow me to paraphrase from a really great documentary I just viewed: “Whenever you open a bottle of wine you are introduced to a year of weather, generations of history, and thousands of years of biology and geology.” With all of the discussion and interest in farm to plate, we do not pay enough homage to the relationship of agriculture and wine. For all intents and purposes, wine and cooking are agricultural products and processes. The beginnings of a great meal and an accomplished cook are the same, in many respects, to the accomplishments of a great wine maker and sommelier.

American Wine Story

www.threecrowsproductions.com/live/vino/

The more a person delves into the enjoyment of drinking wine, the more he or she needs to understand the process of growing grapes, just as the more passionate a cook becomes, the more he or she must understand how crops are grown and animals raised. To some, wine is a commodity, just as the food that they consume for energy. Great wine and great food is beyond their comprehension and far from their focus of interest. This is, of course, their loss. A wine without the passion of a dedicated grape farmer and wine maker is no more interesting than food reheated in a microwave. To those who have never experienced the epiphany of an incredible wine or a life-changing meal, I can only say: “I am sorry for your loss.”

What is most interesting for professional cooks and chefs is the relationship that knowledge of wine has to their ability to cook at the highest level. There is a direct corollary between wine and food knowledge. As a college student, my experience with wine was limited to Mateus and Lancers Rose, and an occasional bottle of Boone’s Farm (yuck). I had early line cook positions at restaurants that would proclaim these items as “must haves” on a wine list, so you can appreciate the skill level and lack of passion that might have existed in the back of the house.

As my desire grew to stay the course and become proficient as a cook, so too did my interest in drinking “real wine”. It really wasn’t until my first trip overseas that the light bulb went off. I attribute some of this early lack of interest to a universal lack of appreciation for wine by Americans until the late 1970’s.   When I was able to toast a chef from another country, in his wine cellar, with wine that he made, my culinary life really changed. Sure, I was working in much better restaurants at this point, but cooks at the time were unfamiliar with wine as a thing of passion and an agricultural product that enhanced the experience of dining. That glass of wine (the first in a cellar owned by an Austrian chef) was an extension of who he was, it was a child that he and his family grew to love, respect, and in this case share as a symbol of hospitality. It was exceptional!

From this point on, my standards truly changed, my expectations of everything to do with food and restaurants changed, and my intent on building a base of knowledge was set. This same type of experience and transition is necessary for anyone who wants to pursue a life of food, a career behind the line. To know food is to understand the farmer and the soil that he or she works with. To know wine is to know the grape farmer, the wine maker, the vineyard family and the soil that they work with. Here are some bits of information that might help young cooks take an interest in this magnificent agricultural product as they pursue their dream of a life with food.

THE TEN MINUTE WINE CLASS

[] THE PROCESS

Grapes traditionally grown during the summer months and are harvested approximately 100 days after blossoms appear on the vines. Vines rarely produce any grapes until they are three years old, but can continue producing for a generation or more.

When grapes reach the correct brix (sugar content), they are harvested and crushed to release their juice. In most cases the pits are set aside, in some cases the skins remain through the first maceration, or in the case of most white wines, removed.

Wines are both vat fermented (sometimes in stainless steel, other times in oak barrels) and bottle fermented (sometimes available for consumption very early – such as Nouvelle Beaujolais) for a period of months or years before they reach their peak of drinkability. Wine is, a living product, constantly changing as it sits in cask and bottle. Some wines age well; others should be consumed young, since they will rather quickly deteriorate in quality.

The process of converting grape juice to wine is known as fermentation (conversion of natural sugar and yeast into alcohol and carbon dioxide).

[] TYPES OF WINE

All wines fall into one of these three categories:

Table Wine: 8-15% alcohol – this includes nearly every wine that would accompany food or serve as a “quaffing” beverage on its own.

Sparkling Wine: 8-12% alcohol – The carbon dioxide is retained in these wines that include Champagne. NOTE: To officially be classified as champagne, a sparkling beverage must use the champenoise process and originate in the champagne region of France.

Fortified Wines: 17-22% alcohol – these wines have a higher viscosity and include sherry, marsala, port, and madeira as examples.

MISUNDERSTOOD TERMINOLOGY:

[] TERROIR

This term does not refer exclusively to soil, although soil is an important part of terroir. It also includes consideration of climate and topography. The single most important factor that impacts the flavor and quality of wine is the composite of terroir.

[] WINE QUALITY

Wine quality is impacted by:

*Terroir

*The Process Used (everything from how the grapes are crushed and macerated to the type of vessel used in vat fermentation)

*Blending (This proprietary process, or recipe, is determined by the wine maker. It is his or her signature.)

[] TANNIN

Tannin is that astringent or bitter experience that some describe when drinking wine. It is NOT a taste, but rather a tactile part of the experience of drinking.

Tannin is a natural preservative in wine (those with minimal tannin are not likely to age well, where those with a young, pronounced tannin feel will likely age and need to age before consumption).

Tannin comes from the skin of the grape, the pits (if they are left in during maceration), and in some cases the barrel wood used in fermentation.

[] ACIDITY

That acid or tart taste to wine will oftentimes mellow with age and in many cases is a result of picking grapes too soon. Sometimes weather conditions like an unexpected frost or heavy rains late in the season will force a vineyard to harvest prematurely in order to save the crop.

[] VINTAGE

Every wine has a vintage. Vintage, in itself, does not mean quality; it is simply the year that the grape was harvested. That being said, some wines are made from an exceptional harvest that wine “experts” may conclude as noteworthy. This exceptional, or even good year may result in a wine being marked as “better” than others. In the end, quality is in the palate of the consumer.

[] THE LABEL

Whether we like to admit it or not, people DO JUDGE A BOOK BY LOOKING AT THE COVER. In the case of wine, this might be a legitimate way to assess what a wine will be like. Law, in most countries, will dictate basic facts about the wine including: the source of bottling, the name of the grape(s) involved, the alcoholic content, the country, state, region, and vineyard where the wine is from, and when the vineyard chooses to identify the wine by the name of its primary grape, they must even assure that a high percentage of that wines juice came from the identified grape (% varies by state and/or country).

What is most important for young cooks is that they dedicate the time to learn about wines and how they pair with the items that they cook. This must be a combination of reading, discussions and, of course, lots of tasting. A palate for food and wine is the greatest asset that any cook owns; develop it.

In the next post, I will look at the process of tasting wine and some basic rules of thumb for pairing with food.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

COMING SOON:         Chef Paul Sorgule’s second novel:

“The Event That Changed Everything”

Look for it at the end of 2014 or beginning of 2015

On amazon.com and iuniverse.com

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CHEF’S – BE ACTIVE WITH ALL PARTS OF THE DINING EXPERIENCE

24 Tuesday Jun 2014

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CHEF’S – BE ACTIVE WITH ALL PARTS OF THE DINING EXPERIENCE

It would be accurate to state that there is more to do in operating a restaurant kitchen than most any chef can effectively deal with. Writing menus, testing recipes, ordering product, connecting with farmers and vendors, hiring, training and evaluating staff, maintaining standards of sanitation and safety, monitoring production and filling in wherever needed equates to more hours than there are in a day. Yet, if the chef is not in tune with and very knowledgeable about wine, beer, distilled beverages, service, marketing, cost control and image building then their job is incomplete. The food is absolutely important, but it is only one part of the formula for a great meal.

In this article I will only touch on one of those components: wine. There are three ways to view a wine list in your restaurant: the menu drives the complementary wines you want to sell, the wine drives the type of menu you want to offer, or, the wine list is independent without real thought given to how it fits. Obviously, the first two options would be preferred, providing there are certain menu list parameters that are always considered.

The chef must be actively involved in the selection of wines that will add interest and depth to the menu being developed. To be able to do this, the chef needs a breadth of knowledge, a competent palate and the resources necessary to make an intelligent decision with wine purchases. This cannot be a front of the house decision alone, the wine footprint for your restaurant helps to build your restaurant signature and as such is part of the culinary focus.

The chef needs to understand the source for wines (country, region, vineyard, grape and terroir) just as he or she must know the source of ingredients used in building the food menu. The quality of the grape, climate, make up of the soil, and topography are just as important, if not more, than the expertise of the wine maker.

Just as a cook is trained to taste – season – taste, so too must a chef learn to sip, swish and drink wine with the foods that it will most likely accompany. It is the chef’s palate that drives a menu even after consideration for guest preferences. Each restaurant chef must know the wine list at a similar level to the food menu. What are the characteristics of a cabernet sauvignon vs. a merlot or zinfandel. When is a French Chardonnay preferred over one from Northern California. Why are Pinot Noirs from Oregon recognized as comparable to those from France and wines made from the same grape in other parts of the United States not so lucky? What makes a particular vintage so spectacular and another so-so? When are tannins a good thing and when are they not?

A chef’s food palate may take decades to fully develop, so it may take some time to build a similar palate for wine, but professionals cannot defer on this important task. When the guest arrives they are in your hands. The chef can sculpt a guest experience providing his or her breadth of knowledge goes beyond the flavor profile of that braised veal shank.

The chef may never have the scope of wine understanding of a sommelier, but he or she must be able to talk the language and stand up to decisions regarding what will be sold as an appropriate food pairing. Collaborative sessions leading to wine dinners, designation of new wine by the glass candidates and tasting sessions with clients for group events are all integral parts of a chefs job.

A reasonably expansive wine inventory in a restaurant can easily be valued in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Though some may be inclined to collect wine and speculate on it’s eventual inflated value, most restaurants hope to turn their wine inventory over every six to nine months. This goal requires that the chef and wine manager work together in an effort to find ways to attract enthusiasts and build complementary wine sales. Neither the front nor back of the house will reach their sales goals without collaborative understanding and marketing efforts.

There are certainly great examples of chefs who have taken this task to heart. Thomas Keller, Alice Waters, Mario Batali, Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud have sophisticated wine palates and their wine lists demonstrate this love and understanding. But, this appreciation for, and knowledge of wine should not be limited to the relatively small percentage of high-end restaurants with celebrity names behind the range. When one considers that alcoholic beverages still account for the most profitable items on a restaurant menu it behooves chefs in every full service restaurant to build a repertoire of wine knowledge and create lists that work with food in a complementary way.

Wine consumption has grown steadily over the past few decades as consumers built an appreciation for quality and became more adventurous. Even with this substantial growth, wine consumption in America pales in comparison to Europe (although wine is losing some of its attraction to younger European consumers). This demonstrates a significant opportunity in our country to build on a fresh interest in wine and its ability to balance well with food. Knowledge is power for a chef and wine should be a part of that knowledge base.

For those interested, here are a few examples of great references that can help with developing a solid wine knowledge for chefs.

WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT

WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE

WINE ESSENTIALS

EXPLORING WINE

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting, Training and Coaching

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The Life of Jack Edwards – A Meal Without Wine is Like a Day Without Sunshine

07 Saturday Dec 2013

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The Life of Jack Edwards - A Meal Without Wine is Like a Day Without Sunshine

Behind every great restaurant wine list is a team (sometimes just one person) with the passion for wine, depth of knowledge about the product, interest in chefs and connections throughout the wine and food world necessary to make that restaurants cellars stand out. Understanding the process of making, valuing, thoroughly tasting and pairing wine can take a lifetime to master. Those who appreciate great wine understand the role of the sommelier in top end restaurants, but even those refined “experts” need to lean on the true masters behind the scene; the individuals who touch the grapes, communicate with winemakers, take part in the blending process with owners and travel the world to create partnerships with distributors and restaurateurs in an effort to build a wines brand. These “ambassadors” for wine have made wine their lives. These are the spokespeople whom everyone in the wine industry truly listens to, the ones who help restaurants shine with those perfect pairings.

The job is not easy and requires years of study, an exceptional palette, a worldly persona, and a Rolodex of connections that would be the envy of any food professional. The individuals who have made wine marketing and wine knowledge their calling are only known to those people who depend on their skill set to bask in the restaurant headlines. Behind every great chef, restaurateur and sommelier are these troubadours of wine, the walking and talking “live” Wikipedia sources of wine knowledge, the marketers of the vineyard.

I imagine there are very few people who at an early age decide that wine will be their calling (unless of course you are born into a wine family). More often than not, they fall into this role by first having an interest or career in restaurants or maybe even agriculture (wine is, after all an agricultural product). To be truly successful, these individuals will need a very responsive palette, just like the best chefs. It is this ability to pick out the small nuances of flavor and taste that set both exceptional chefs and exceptional wine professionals apart from the rest of us.

Like chefs, these wine professionals lead a life that has its glamorous moments but through far too many weeks of 100 or so hours, takes its toll. These professionals have chosen to pay this price and must have understanding families and friends as a result. This type of commitment goes with the turf. The vineyard ambassadors do get to travel to places that most serious food people would give their right arm to see, but those who have had to travel for work, waiting in airports, moving from hotel to hotel, and dining solely on restaurant food know that even this can become a less than positive experience. Yet, without these dedicated ambassadors, your favorite restaurant wine list would lose its sparkle.

Jack Edwards is the consummate vineyard ambassador. Currently the Vice President of Sales at Somerston Wine Company in the Napa Valley. Prior to taking on this position, Jack held a similar job with Miner Family Vineyards just down the road. Jack held this position for 16 years before moving to Somerston. I have known Jack for decades; first as a hospitality student at Paul Smith’s College and then through our wine and restaurant connections over the years. Jack agreed to this interview so that you might better understand the dynamics of this position and the important role that wine plays in the restaurant business throughout the world.

1. What or who influenced you to pursue a career in food and beverage?
“Anthony Knapp Paul Smith’s College Alum and former owner of the Black Horse Inn of Mendham, New Jersey”. Anthony Knapp bought the 18th century Black Horse Tavern in 1965 and ran it for 42 years. He was known by many as Mr. Hospitality and was able to continue the reputation of this property as the restaurant “where everyone knew your name”. The property was sold in 2007.

2. Who mentored you in your pursuit of this career?
“I had a few mentors but the one who stands out is an old boss from Marriott named Joe Cozza who encouraged me to pursue a career in the beverage field.”

3. How would others describe your style of management?
“Probably laid back. Maybe sometimes too laid back, but generally effective.”

It is interesting how some people do not see themselves as strong as they are simply because they are kind and calm. My experiences with Jack (granted I did not work for him) were that through his calm demeanor it was easy to sense his competence and the respect that others had for his approach. This is a trait that so many managers are unable to master.

4. Do you have a business philosophy that drives your operational decisions? If so, can you describe this philosophy?
“Wine business is generally a social business. I try and establish great relationships and try to work with my distributors and customers as a team. There are a lot of good wines on the market. Buyers prefer to work with people they like and trust.”

Trust, as we all well know is not easy to achieve. Trust is built on actions not talk and those who are able to deliver what they promise will always attract followers. This “trust factor” is something that comes through loud and clear from all who work with Jack.

5. Can you name a particular food experience in your life that was your epiphany? An experience that stands out as the moment when you said, yes, this is what I need to do.
“For me it was a wine I tasted that changed my mind about my future. I was working an event and tasted a 1980 Simi Reserve Cabernet that changed my mind about wine. It was an experience that I won’t forget. It was a pretty good wine but the first I ever tasted that made me say wow!”

6. What is your pet peeve about working in the food and beverage industry?
“Sommeliers that buy wine that they like instead of what their customers are looking for.”

7. Who are your most valuable players in the operation where you currently work? “The Vineyard manager and Winemaker: without them we have nothing.”

Stephen Brook stated it very clearly in his book: Wine People, Vendome Press: “ Wine is more than a business, it is a culture that binds together the aristocrat and the peasant, the producer wedded to his soil and the sharp-eyed city merchant, the cautious grower and the extravagant consumer. It is a major source of conviviality. A raised glass can bring down, if only temporarily, national boundaries. Wine unites continuity and flux. It remains essentially the same product enjoyed on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains and around the Mediterranean shores four thousand years ago and yet it is constantly evolving, steadily improving in overall quality and gradually shifting in style to meet the supposed tastes and expectations of consumers. That is what makes wine so fascinating a topic. A simple product of nature, the fruit of the vine, it is none the less molded by humankind. No two vintages are identical, giving wine its infinite variety, and even the most skilled oenologist needs to adapt his techniques from year to year to extract the very best that the vintage has to offer.”

This is why Jack’s response is so true, simple and to the point. Somerston wines are a reflection of the person growing the grapes and the skill each year of Craig Becker; Miner wines are a reflection of that uniquely different skill set of Gary Brookman and the palette of Dave Miner. Jack added: “I am lucky to have Craig as both winemaker and vineyard manager and that he and Dave both provided me with a great product to make friends with.” These are the craftsmen who place their gift of wine in the hands of ambassadors like Jack Edward’s to respect and introduce to others.

8. If you had an opportunity to provide some guiding light to young cooks, bakers or hospitality students looking to make their mark in this business, what would you tell them?
“I would tell chefs to learn a little about wine. It can change the way your food tastes; sometimes the impact is good, sometimes not. The real challenge is to know why.” The wine list in a restaurant should never be independent of the food menu. Both should be designed with the other in mind thus the importance of wine knowledge to the chef and food knowledge to the sommelier. Appropriate wine makes the food experience better.

9. When you hire people to work in your business what traits are you looking for?
“People in the wine business must be energetic, passionate and easy to like”. The truth of the matter is that in sales, a decision to buy is based to a large degree on likeability. More often than not, the purchasing decision is made at the point when the sales person introduces him/herself and shakes your hand.

10. If you were not working in food and beverage, what would you choose to do for a career?
“Golf course management.”

This is another business that requires a keen sense of hospitality, a high level of competence, and likeability.

11. What would you like people to know about your current business and the products that you produce or sell?
“Since Somerston Wine Company is new, I would just like people to taste the wines: they speak for themselves. We produce sustainably grown, hillside vineyard wines from Napa Valley.”

“The Somerston property is the foundation of everything we do. The property is 1628 acres of natural beauty, with over 200 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards, winery, and a developing ranch and farm Our two valleys are split by the highest point on Sage Canyon Road, topping out at almost 2800 feet in elevation, the valley floors rest at 800 feet above sea level. Somerston is 8 miles east of Rutherford east of the Chiles Valley appellation in Napa Valley. Its diverse soils, microclimates, and exposures are perfect for growing world-class grapes. This remarkable property has several spring fed lakes, natural soda springs, and several acres dedicated to farming of fruit trees, vegetables, herbs, and gardens.”
from Somerston Webpage

“Jack’s extensive national and international experience at Miner Family Winery will allow him to facilitate our growth plans and elevate the level of service and support to our distributors, wholesalers and importers,” noted Becker. “Jack’s extensive contacts and long-term relationships will increase market awareness of our brands. He is very well regarded throughout the industry and we share similar values. I am truly excited to welcome Jack to our team!”
Craig Becker, winemaker at Somerston
Although Somerston Wine Company produces and distributes a full portfolio of wines including Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Pinot Noir; it is their Cabernet Sauvignon that Jack proclaims as their signature wine.

The beauty of Facebook is the ability to follow friends and acquaintances through various stages of their professional and personal lives. I look forward to the posts from Jack as he travels the world bringing the message of wine to others. He may be in Japan this week, France the next, New York City shortly afterward, on to the South Beach Food and Wine Festival, Aspen and then back on an international flight to China. His bucket list of great restaurants is far broader than mine and he is progressing through that list at a much faster rate than I.As an ambassador, this is the price to pay.

If you are interested in wine, visit the websites of Somerston Wines and his previous employer: Miner Family Vineyards.

http://www.somerstonwineco.com

http://www.minerwines.com

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WINE QUALITY IS A REFLECTION OF THE WINEMAKER’S PASSION FOR LIFE

03 Monday Jun 2013

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WINE QUALITY IS A REFLECTION OF THE WINEMAKER’S PASSION FOR LIFE

I am far from a wine expert, however, as is the case with many things in life – I become more knowledgeable and appreciative as the years go by. I know what I like to drink, I know which foods I enjoy with certain wines, I am very open to trying anything new, and I have become very enthralled with the people who dedicate their lives to the grape.

Case in point, although I am not that fond of white wines, I am very enthused with Sauvignon Blanc, and in particular, those grapes that wind up as a Sancerre. Having visited the town of Sancerre many times and having built some familiarity with the Loire Valley, I consider myself to be a bit of a Sancerre advocate.

I have enjoyed the privilege of tasting wines in the private cellars of noteworthy wine makers in Sancerre and in particular that of Daniel Chotard. After many years I now consider Daniel to be my friend (even though his English is almost as shaky as my French – almost). I have hosted Daniel and his wife in Saranac Lake, have worked diligently with my other French friends: the Weissberg’s – to get Chotard’s wine on regional lists, and have had the pleasure of breaking bread in various bistros throughout the Loire with Daniel and a cadre of enthusiastic chefs and wine afficandos.

I read the following review of Chotard’s Sancerre; in this case a 2009, by the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker:
“90 points Wine Spectator: “Super fresh, with lots of chive, fleur de sel, lime and chalk notes backed by a strong flinty note on the bracing finish, which really stretches out. Drink now.” (12/10) 89 points Parker’s Wine Advocate: “Daniel Chotard’s 2009 Sancerre is diversely scented and flavored with papaya, grapefruit, cassis, and passion fruit. A distinctly saline overlay – along with bright acids – helps convey a sense of invigoration and refreshment and offsets the relatively bitter cast to a persistently zesty finish. I suspect this will be best enjoyed over the next 12-18 months.” (08/10)
Not a bad review; one that certainly would help Daniel move his wine into certain American restaurant circles, however it really doesn’t tell the whole story. There is something else about wine that is more social that taste, flavor and aroma. Certainly anyone who enjoys Sauvignon Blanc would find Chotard’s to be quite exceptional, but to me it is impossible to separate the wine from the person.
Daniel Chotard, and now his son to follow, is 100% dedicated to the grape and his wine. Whether it is Chotard, Mondavi, or Helen Turley, that passion is what really makes a wine sing. Whatever the situation, it is the grape that comes first. To a wine maker caring for the grape is comparable to caring for a child. It requires so much time, knowledge, passion and luck, that it becomes quite apparent that the wine maker must pass on some of his/her own characteristics to the end product. Just as a parent influences how the child evolves and the type of person they become, so too does the grape reflect this caring relationship.
Daniel Chotard is a wonderful, hard-working, dedicated, caring person who in turn produces a wine of unique character. As is the case with those who are as dedicated to wine making, as a chef is dedicated to cuisine, Chotard represents all that is right in the world of wine.
I would certainly encourage anyone who can find a bottle or two of Chotard Sancerre to saver it, but more importantly I would encourage you to plan a trip to the Loire and pay my friend a visit. I guarantee the wine will become more than a great beverage, it will become a reflection of the man and a memory for life.
Harvest America Ventures will be planning a Educational Adventure Wine Vacation to France in September of 2013. Daniel Chotard is one of the program contributors. Visit our website for more details as they unfold:
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com
click on Wine Vacations

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Plan Your French “Wine Memories” Vacation

24 Friday May 2013

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In the fall of 2013, Harvest America Ventures, in partnership with The Weissberg Family of Paris and Chef Sarah Steffan of the Lake Placid Lodge, will present a vacation opportunity of a lifetime.

Unlike most wine tours that focus primarily on tasting, this educational wine immersion program is designed for wine lovers, restaurant professionals, cooks and chefs, those who appreciate the connection between wine and culture, and adventure tourists who are drawn to the beauty of Burgundy, France.

Participants will tour regional vineyards and wineries, walk the vineyards and touch the vines, chat with wine makers and renown chefs, taste various wines from the rich regions of Loire and Burgundy, visit Middle Age and Renaissance castles, enjoy the aromas and flavors of traditional French food, become a part of French village life, enjoy the musical talents of a renown French pianist, and bike through the most picturesque and peaceful French countryside.

Your home base for the wine experience will be a 16th century stone building: “The Maison des Adirondacks” in Entrains sur Nohain, France. This beautiful property is in close proximity to Beaune, Vezelay, Sancerre, Pouilly sur Loire, Chablis and Auxerre.

All of your meals, in-country transportation, wine tastings, classes, immersion activities, and lodging are included in the price of the week long, life-experience.

Watch for additional details as they unfold by checking our website at: http://www.harvestamericaventures.com. The anticipated dates at this point are September 23-29, 2013. Mark your calendars! The program is limited to four couples (8 persons) this year.

Paul Sorgule
Harvest America Ventures, LLC

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