
This is a plea to those who work tirelessly in restaurant kitchens, the chefs who are paid to lead those operations, and the owners who depend on raving fans and some semblance of profitability. Please, please, look at what you are doing and dig deeper in quest of a reason to do what you do. Ugh, frustration is setting in.
Let me ask you a question – a very important question – aside from those who can afford to dine at one of Daniel Boulud’s incredible restaurants, or Thomas Keller’s French Laundry; pushing aside those who have enjoyed the opportunity to dine at Dominique Crenn’s incredible operations, or a Drew Nieporent destination in New York, and discounting the excellence of Danny Meyer’s landmark operations in New York – when was the last time you had a really great meal at one of your local restaurants, or a memorable experience at an unknown operation while on business or vacation? If you are anything like me, the anticipation of a really good restaurant experience is at the top of my list when traveling, or just taking a break from cooking at home. Alas, I’m sorry to say that disappointment is far too common, and satisfaction is rare. It really hurts me to say this.
Maybe, since I spent my entire career as a chef, I’m just too critical. Maybe, my expectations are unrealistic, but really all I want is a plate of food that reflects caring, effort, decent technique, well developed flavor, and a little thought when it is placed on that plate. It doesn’t need to parallel those outstanding restaurants I mentioned before – just good food, made with a little passion and care.
This is a call out to all who make, sell, and earn a living through food to self-assess and ask a basic few questions: 1. Is this the best I can do? 2. Am I proud of this dish? 3. Would I serve this to my family? 4. Does this dish make me proud to tie on an apron?
I have mentioned a memory of mine from maybe 30 or so years ago, a memory that has been a driving force throughout my career. It was a poster in the employee dining room of a hotel that asked: “Would you be willing to sign your work?”
Think about that for just a moment. Would you be willing to state your reputation on how thoughtfully, passionately, and caringly you prepared and served a plate of food? I don’t care what it is: a plate of pasta, slice of pizza, planked salmon, or pulled pork sandwich – “Is this the best you can do?”
Seriously, how often have you visited a restaurant and upon receiving the check, thought to yourself: “That sure wasn’t worth it!” What’s going on? So many restaurants, from my recent experience, seem to be in the business of simply cooking food rather than creating a dish to be proud of. This is not a rant; it is a call to arms. Please, stop, take a breath, look at what you are doing, and do it right. Here are some errors that seem to be so very common in recent years:
- ASSUMING THAT LARGER PORTIONS MAKE UP FOR LACKLUSTER QUALITY
The world seems to view Americans as gluttonous eaters focused on over-flowing plates, massive portion sizes, everything fried, and that feeling of owing the world an apology after dragging your feet home from a 1,500-calorie meal. This is NOT how one enjoys a quality meal and certainly not the best road to profitability. I’m sorry, but 4-6 ounces of protein is more than enough when combined with well-prepared vegetables and a light sauce.
- CLAIMING TO REPRESENT COOKING METHODS PROPERLY
Know your stuff! To those who appreciate food, cooking methods are cherished. If you claim braising, sauté, grilled, or poached, then learn the proper technique – it makes a difference.
- SOMEHOW BELIEVING THAT SPICE IS A REASON TO FORGET EVERYTHING ELSE
Can we get over the whole “no pain, no gain” approach to seasoning a dish? Delicious food shouldn’t hurt. Make sure the guest can taste the primary ingredient instead of trying to figure out how far up the Scoville Scale they were able to climb.
- THINKING THAT EATING IS A CONTACT SPORT
How many can you eat, how big of a steak, how fast can you get it down, how much better or faster are you than the person sitting across from you. How did this become a thing?
- NOT KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EATING AND DINING
Eating is a process; dining is an experience. We eat to survive and move forward. We dine because we seek to enjoy a moment, relish the ingredients, look forward to the service, and seek to create memories. Fast food is process eating and will always fall short of dining. Each has its place, but don’t confuse them within your menu and your concept.
- ASSUMING THAT MORE CALORIES EQUALS HIGHER QUALITY
Obesity is a problem that is man made. Twelve-hundred calorie meals are not healthy and actually – not enjoyable.
- INVESTING MORE IN DESIGN THAN IN WELL-TRAINED STAFF
Beautiful dining rooms, high quality China and glassware, incredible views, and priceless artwork on the walls mean nothing if you don’t hire and train great employees who respect the process of cooking, revere time-tested methods, and have a passion for the nuance of well-prepared plates of food that they are willing to sign.
Let’s please look at what we are doing. Respect the profession and the food that you serve and create experiences that draw people in and keep them coming back.
PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting
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