I came across an old quote from Phylicia Rashad (for those my age – the lead actress in the series “Fame” from many years back) that gave me another opportunity to think about the cooks that I know and have known over the past five (nearly six) decades and why I chose to stand in front of a range.

“Before children speak, they sing,

Before they write, they paint,

As soon as they stand, they dance.

Art is the basis of human expression.”

-Phylicia Rashad

If I may be so bold as to apply this same observation to future cooks, it might read as:

“Before we open our eyes, we eat.

Before we cook, we are intrigued by the smells of the kitchen.

Before we use a knife, we watch our parents and grandparents prepare a meal.

Before we socialize with friends, we enjoy family around the dinner table.

And before we push our arms through that first chef jacket, we remember these moments and are reminded of them every day we walk through those kitchen doors.”

At least from my own experience there is comfort and excitement every time I enter a professional kitchen. The magnetism of the kitchen dates to those early days of growing up in a home where food played an important role, not as much as some, but enough to leave an indelible mark on my life. The smells, textures, sounds, sights, and tastes of my parents and grandparents’ homes are, to this day, reminders of why I eventually chose to spend my career in houndstooth pants, double breasted white chef’s coat, and apron.

I can close my eyes and hear the sounds of the kitchen – the rhythm of staccato knives dancing on cutting boards, the background noise of exhaust fans, clinking of plates being stacked in the dish area, servers and expeditors barking out orders and line cooks responding with “yes, Chef”, or “heard”, oven doors being constantly opened and closed, the relentless sound of the Point of Sale, the sound of being busy and the occasional laughter that keeps everything in check. It is a cacophony of sound that blends into a piece of music that is timeless and inspiring. The sound when a chicken filet touches the pre-heated interior of a sauté pan will signal to a chef standing 20 feet away that the temperature is correct and the Maillard reaction has begun. The thud of a French knife on a cook’s cutting board will signal that it’s time to restore its edge, or the sound of searing when a steak hits the grates of a char broiler lets the cook know that those beautiful hash marks will once again become their signature on a plate.

The smells of the kitchen are individually unique, yet somehow blend to make sense. I have always made sure that these smells are part of the grand design of how a kitchen must operate. I think, even if these items weren’t on a menu, I would find a way to bring them into the fold. The smell of a simmering veal or chicken stock is not only a baseline aroma that shows your commitment to preparing from scratch, but also a way to demonstrate respect for the animals behind a broth. Total utilization of every part of the animal shows respect for their sacrifice. Fresh hard crusted loaves of bread being peeled from the oven – that sweet, nutty aroma gives anyone pause – a lost art that is experiencing a resurgence. Respectable restaurants either bake their own or invest the time to find an exceptional resource for this essential ingredient in the dining experience. Onions and garlic caramelizing in a pan, draw everyone into the process of cooking – this is what it’s all about. These two simple ingredients are at the heart of so many dishes and their smells are the way that they make their presence known. Bacon is well served in nearly everything, but it reigns supreme at breakfast time. It is bacon that truly wakes up every cook who walks through those kitchen doors as it proclaims – “don’t forget me, I can make everything better.” The rich umami smell of steaks, chops, and roasts as they caramelize on the grill or in the oven, releasing a richness that turns on the desire that surrounds eating, and of course, the always present smell of fresh coffee, the intoxicating elixir that keeps cooks’ energy levels up and provides that comfortable boost when needed. The smells are everywhere just as they were in my grandmother’s house where bread was always fresh, stocks were always on the stove, sauces were always simmering, and coffee was always present.

Everywhere in a kitchen are touches and textures that are comforting and full of memories. Gripping a knife is a process followed by every cook and chef throughout their career. The handle is familiar, and it stimulates hand/motion memory that allows the knife to become an extension of a cook’s body. There is steady communication between the blade and the hand that allows for perfect vegetable cuts, precise trimming of the silver skin on a tenderloin, knowing where the ball and socket joints are on a chicken carcass, feeling how to remove the fillets from a round or flat fish without wasting any of the precious flesh, or delicately shaping football tourne’s from a russet potato. The feel of a sauté pans handle and the muscle memory that allows a cook to flip its ingredients in the air and watch them gracefully return to the pan, or the comforting touch associated with those chef’s tongs that are a line cook’s best friend – everything just seems to feel right. The grill cook gently presses a steak or chop on the open fire and a signal is sent immediately to the brain – this is still a bit rare, just another minute and it will be perfect. And the baker peels a loaf of artisan bread from the oven, flips it over, taps the bottom, and knows the familiar sound that says – this is ready.

Finally, the visual impact of food in a professional kitchen is the cook’s opportunity to paint the story of their career, to demonstrate their signature, and show the world how much they care about the ingredients they work with, the sheer joy they feel about the work they do, and their willingness to place their art on display. Each plate is a chance for the team to add to their story and make a statement.

All this rushes through my mind as I reflect on my early days of watching my mother prepare a meatloaf or roast a chicken for dinner; of my grandmother pulling a perfect loaf of bread out of the oven, not for a special occasion, but just to have. I remember the family meals, long before I ever held a knife in my hand, with all the care that was put into preparation, flavors, and presentation. And I relish those memories of a family member teaching me something about the importance of food and the life skills associated with knowing how to cook and enjoy every morsel I ate. These are my memories of cooking for the soul.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

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