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WHY IS A PARTICULAR CHEF’S FOOD SO MUCH BETTER THAN ANOTHER’S?

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Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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a chef's food, chefs, cooks, culinary excellence, quality, restaurants

Painted in Waterlogue

Every chef has experienced it and as a result he or she will relate to the content of this article. There are times, possibly many times, when you question your own skill – whether in cooking or presenting food, or even with the operation of a kitchen. You have likely been on the receiving end of a plate of food that is just so damn good that it first gives you pause, then amazes you, makes you angry for a brief moment, and then finally makes you question whether or not you are really worthy of wearing a chef’s toque.

This same reality happens to artists, musicians, writers, designers, architects, woodworkers, and a suitcase full of craftspeople. I remember two specific examples with the late guitarist – Jimi Hendrix.

When asked about playing the blues – Hendrix stated:

“The blues are easy to play but hard to feel.”

Hendrix

pans

This paid homage to those blues musicians who stood apart from all others: BB King, Albert King, Taj Mahal, Muddy Waters, Robert Johnson, Buddy Guy, Howlin Wolf, Ella Fitzgerald, John Lee Hooker, Billie Holiday, Bonnie Raitt, John Hiatt, and Aretha Franklin to name a few. It is what is felt and experienced deep down inside that made these individuals stand out as accomplished and authentic. They were one with what they played and sang. There are tens of thousands of blues players who would automatically feel inadequate when standing next to these greats.

It was early in his career that Hendrix spent time in England building his chops and forming the Jimi Hendrix Experience when he somehow finagled his way on stage to play alongside Eric Clapton and Cream. During this mind-blowing concert – Hendrix embarrassed Clapton, who up to this point was considered the greatest guitar player in the world. Clapton walked off the stage and said that he suddenly questioned his ability to play guitar next to this man who obviously was his superior as a musician, master of the instrument, and showman. Obviously, Clapton continued on – but it was that moment when he, just like many of us in the kitchen, questioned his or our own abilities.

I consider myself an acceptable chef from the perspective of cooking, respectable at food presentation, and better than average at running a kitchen operation. All in all – I can do the job. I learned very early on that there are thousands upon thousands of chefs who are far more talented as cooks, many who are way more artistic, and a considerable number who run a better, more systematic kitchen than I. I am OK with that and never tried to proclaim that I was any better than that. There were many times when I was humbled by a bite of food that left me in awe of a chef’s talent, many times when a chef’s food was so beautiful that I felt embarrassed to admit that I also was a chef, and numerous times when I recognized a chef who was stellar at running a profitable, well mannered kitchen that made me very jealous. At the same time I always thought, and oftentimes acted on finding out why that food, that presentation, that operation was so much better and how I might learn and grow from the experience. These are some of the things that I learned:

[]         YOU CAN’T REALLY PLAY THE BLUES UNLESS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCED THE BLUES

All of those musicians whom I listed, and hundreds more, are able to amaze us with their talent of expression. Their talent goes well beyond instrumental prowess – it is all about channeling feelings and experiences that connect with that prowess. Hendrix felt it, Ella Fitzgerald felt it, Buddy Guy felt it, and so does Shaun Brock, Stephanie Izard, Dan Barber, Dominique Creen, Rick Bayless, John Folse, David Chang, Keith Taylor, Alain Passard, and many other chefs who hold the key to authenticity in cooking. The common thread is a deep understanding of what they are working with, the history behind ingredients, people, and process, and a sincere love for what they do. Being a chef is never just a job to them – it is an expression of who they are and what they know. You can sense it when you walk into their restaurants, when you sit at their table, when the server proudly presents the menu, when the line cook receives the order and the plate is presented in the pass, and you know it when you take that first bite. It is no different than when Hendrix played that first note of “Little Wing”.

[]         YOU CAN’T ADJUST FLAVOR UNLESS YOU KNOW AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS YOU USE

“What does it need” – is oftentimes the consummate question that a cook asks the chef. How do you know – really? “It needs salt”, or “More heat, more acid, some butter to provide a smooth mouth feel”. What the dish really needs is far more complicated, far more interesting, and far more connected to a real understanding of the dish, the cuisine, the history, and the terroir. What does that Hoppin John need is something that Sean Brock might answer appropriately since he has made the study of southern beans, spices, and culinary culture his life’s work. What does that taco really need is something that Rick Bayless might answer by first asking about the type of corn that was used to make the masa for the tortilla or whether the flavor profile you are looking for is based on Mexican heritage or Latino. And Stephanie Izard might very well ask you to talk about the farm where the goats were raised for that braise, what they were fed, and the way that you butchered the animal and handled the meat before cooking. Somehow: “It needs salt”, just doesn’t cut it.

[]         YOU WILL NEVER PLATE FOOD AS BEAUTIFUL AS NATURE AND YOU WILL NEVER UNDERSTAND NATURE UNLESS YOU APPRECIATE ART

To me, it has always been interesting to have a conversation with highly artistic chefs who make beautiful plate presentations. Some are advocates for simply relying on Mother Nature’s palate to combine foods that grow together, pick them at the peak of maturity, and do very little to change them from how the earth intended them to be. Others invest all of their creativity to use those ingredients to duplicate a vision they had – sometimes inspired by nature, sometimes events, and sometimes a parallel presentation that mirrors some experience from their past. In most every case – the chef is inspired by what they see in nature.

I worked with a chef/educator who during his classes on plate presentation made students forage through the nearby woods for branches, leaves, stones, moss, and natures mushrooms to create plate presentations from Nature’s floor. He wanted this to be their roadmap to working with food – follow what Nature offers you first.

[]         THE OPERATION OF A CHEF’S KITCHEN IS NOT A REFLECTION OF OWNERSHIP, IT IS A REFLECTION OF SHARED PHILOSOPHY

Leadership and management are sometimes a chef’s greatest challenge. Chefs tend to be highly focused individuals who have a need to express what they believe through their food and their operations. They tend to demand that others follow what they see as important and cringe at anything or anyone who steps in the way of this vision. These kitchens tend to be tense, always on edge, highly stressful, ready to burn out at any second, and wrought with mistrust and angst. Things get done, but the price to pay is high. You can feel it when you walk in the kitchen, you might even feel it in the dining room – it is not a good feeling. Others (the ones that I believe are far more successful) are chefs who work hard to identify cooks who are confident, yet cognizant of the chain of command; willing to express themselves, but knowing when it is best to simply say: yes chef; and dedicated to a shared philosophy of food, commitment to excellence, and team dynamics. In this case, the chef can reach the same goals, but do so as a unified body that believes in what they are doing. The difference is: “I wouldn’t dare put out a plate of food that fails to meet the chef’s standards” vs. “Why would I ever put out a plate of food that doesn’t meet our collective standards?”

Eamon

[]         THE OPERATION OF A KITCHEN IS LIKE ADJUSTING A RECIPE

Recipes lack soul and fall short on understanding the need for flexibility. Not every tomato tastes the same, not every fish from the sea is the same, and not every berry that the pastry chef uses is cut from the same cloth in terms of flavor. A chef understands the difference, knows what the ingredient at its peak should look and taste like, understands the history of a dish and how a certain profile must be maintained before he or she is able to complete a recipe with predictable results. The same is true with kitchen dynamics. Not all cooks are the same; in fact they may differ depending on the day of the week or their personal circumstances that will impact performance. The chef must know all the nuances of character, empathy, and leadership to get a consistent result from that kitchen crew. Cooks need to understand before they adjust a recipe and chefs need to understand before they proceed with day-to-day operations.

Why does that chef’s food taste so much better than another’s? It is a complex question with complex answers. When the food is right you know it immediately. When the kitchen is running smoothly, it can be sensed from the moment you step through the door.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

Don’t miss the debut of CAFÉ Talks podcast

July 1, 2020 – available through iTunes, Facebook, this Blog, and the website for CAFÉ: The Center for Advancement of Foodservice Education

www.cafemeetingplace.com

 

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OUR DAILY BREATH: PROFESSIONAL COOKS – DON’T DISMAY – KNOW YOUR STRENGTHS

08 Wednesday Apr 2020

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, cooks strengths, culinary excellence, restaurant work, transferrable skills

hen

Too much idle time leads to reflection and analysis. “What am I doing” is a question that some will ask: “What am I capable of”, is of equal concern. If you have been cooking at a professional level, if you have always been driven towards doing things right and have shunned mediocrity, and if you have approached your job in the kitchen with passion and commitment, then answering these questions can be straight forward.

“I have spent years in the kitchen and now I am without a job. I know that restaurants will return at some point, but am I stuck? Is there anything else I can do? Am I destined to work in the same career or do I have any real skill sets that can open other doors?” Have you had this conversation with yourself yet? If not, I guarantee that you will.

Allow me to approach these questions in a few different ways. First – we (all of us who have made the restaurant business our life calling) hope that you will bring your skills, passion, and commitment back to the food business and will work diligently to help make us better. We need you, miss your presence, relish the opportunity to work closely with you again, and we desperately need you to become the next leaders of this terrific industry. However, we would never stand in your way if some other career becomes your calling. This has been at the core of the restaurant business forever. To some, we are the professional life choice that defined your purpose, and to many others it was an important steppingstone for other careers.

It is important to know that many of the skills and traits that you developed during your time in kitchens are highly sought after in numerous other careers. If you are a professional you should know that this label signifies that you have embraced certain characteristics and beliefs that are highly marketable. So, as you self-reflect on who you are, what you do, and what you bring to the table – know that whether you continue to contribute to this dynamic, important food industry or move elsewhere – the traits you developed while in the kitchen are now part of your valuable brand. Think about the person that you are as a result of working in kitchens:

[]         DEPENDABILITY

As a professional cook you have learned how important your role is in the process of preparing and presenting food. You have conditioned yourself to be where you need to be – on time, and ready to hit the ground running. You also fully understand that when assigned a task (no matter how large or small) it is your responsibility to do it correctly and on-time. The system depends on you to act in this manner every day. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         ORGANIZATION

As a professional cook you have developed exceptional organizational skills. You refer to it as mise en place and experience has shown you that if you are organized and prepared then you are capable of achieving success in any moment. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         PLANNING

As a professional cook you have learned that mistakes and crisis can be avoided or at least minimized if you take the time to effectively plan ahead. You prepare prep sheets for the next day, take inventory of your supplies, sharpen your knives in advance, prioritize work, and evaluate past performance so that each day your planning improves. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         COMMUNICATION

As a professional cook you know that survival and eventual success depends on succinct, effective communication with your peers, the operations chef, vendors, and guests. You have developed a habit of truthful, important communication with all stakeholders and know how important it is to accept the same from others. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

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[]         TECHNICAL SKILLS

As a professional cook you are aware that complacency with skills is never a winning approach. Every day must be viewed as an opportunity to learn new skills or polished the ones that you already have. A constant state of improvement is reflective of who you are. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         TIMING AND SPEED

As a professional cook you know that after a skill or a process is learned – you must constantly work at quick thinking and building muscle memory that will allow you to improve your speed without ever sacrificing quality. Eventually, your mind began to organize, prioritize, and visualize what needs to be done and develop a timing rhythm that drives your method of operation. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         PROBLEM SOLVING

As a professional cook – experience has allowed to you quickly reflect on what you have previously seen and strategize on how to approach a challenge with unique problem solving skills. Every cook makes decisions throughout a shift that can impact on product quality, restaurant profitability, and customer satisfaction. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         TASK COMPLETION

As a professional cook you have committed yourself to finish any task that you are assigned. Follow-thru is an essential part of who you are. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

Painted in Waterlogue

[]         CONSISTENCY

As a professional cook you have discovered that the quality product that you produce today must be the same each and every time you plate a dish and place it in the pass. The guest’s expectation is consistency and as a result it has become part of your profile. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         SERVICE

Even though they may push your patience at times, as a professional cook you have learned that the customer is right and you are in the service business. If it is possible and as long as it meets the quality standards of the operation, then service means that your response is “yes”. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         PROFESSIONALISM

You know that professionalism means a fair, honest, appropriate and compassionate approach towards others. Professionalism means that you look and act the part of a consummate representative of the industry and the operation that employs you. You are consistent in this regard. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         COST CONSCIOUSNESS

You know that the financial success of the restaurant, a business that counts profits in single digit percentages, depends on you watching waste, following procedures, and controlling portions. This has become second nature. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

[]         TEAMWORK

You pride yourself in the ability to play your role in the team while supporting everyone else in the completion of his or hers. Egos need to be put aside for the benefit of the collective task ahead. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

full team

[]         IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE

You have become your own most thorough critic. Each day you review your own work and ask: “how can I make it better?” You know that excellence is a habit not a goal and that it must be a constant pursuit that involves not just what you do, but how you do it. THIS IS HIGHLY MARKETABLE IN ANY INDUSTRY.

Yes, you will have limitless opportunity to become successful in the food business, and your future is bright. Yes, our industry will recover and your involvement will be critical in this transition to a fresh, important player in the world economy. But, know that even if you choose to seek another career – the skills that you have developed as a professional cook will open many doors and provide a foundation for success in what ever you pursue.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

We will get through this together

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

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