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COOKS AND THE SCHOOL OF HARD KNOCKS

08 Tuesday Dec 2020

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Sweat was creeping down Alex’s back.  The line was just 15 minutes into the 7 o’clock push and the board was full.  The pressure was on, but Alex was on his game – he was wearing an ear-to-ear smile because he knew he was in the zone.  The line team was in total sync:  Alex looked at his sous chef expediting on the other side of the pass – his eyes said: bring it on chef.

This has been a long haul for the eager, confident line cook who started out three years ago as a dishwasher.  It was that part-time job in his senior year of high school, diving for pearls on weekends and an occasional weeknight that gave Alex a level of confidence that was lacking in his life.  He would graduate from school, but not because he was a stellar student, but simply because he promised his parents that he would.  School actually came easy for him, but it just wasn’t his thing.  Working, sore muscles sweat, aching feet – this is what gave him a sense of purpose.

The light bulb went off the summer after graduation when he finished his third consecutive week of 50 plus hours on dishes – the chef called Alex into his office and sat him down.  “Alex, I really like your work ethic, the fact that I can always count on you to be here and work your hardest is incredibly valuable to me and the team.  I just don’t think that you are working to the level of your ability.  You’ve washed enough dishes – it’s time to learn how to cook.”  From that moment on Alex knew that his career choice had been made.

This is how so many cooks are made.  Even those who have the opportunity to take the time to attend culinary school, if they are truly committed, started out just like Alex.  It has been said many times that career cooks don’t choose their profession – it chooses them.

Alex spent a year as a prep cook – this is where he learned how to identify ingredients and judge their quality, proper food safety and sanitation, how to set-up a work station, sharpen and care for knives, the dimensions on vegetable cuts, how to make a perfect stock, all of the cooking methods, fabricate a chicken, cut steaks, bone out a ham, fillet round and flat fish, open clams and oysters, turn potatoes, build flavors, and create an array of sauces from the bold stocks that he made.  Most importantly he discovered how to organize his work, be consistent, meet the standards of the operation, and build some speed.  After a year of this important routine – he was ready for the line.

Things were a bit rough at first.  Alex had become accustomed to working independently – playing his skills against the clock and the constantly expanding prep list, but now he had to depend on others.  The whole concept of team was something that would take adjustment time.  He started on the fry station where his focus was on a few bar appetizers, pommes frites, and an occasional deep fried entrée.   When other stations depleted their mise en place Alex would jump in to chop fines herbs, portion extra proteins, clarify butter, or simply line up plates or fold extra side towels.  This was a valuable experience since he had the chance to watch how every other station operated.  At first it seemed impossible: “How do they keep all of those orders timed properly, seasoned appropriately, and always looking perfect at the time of plating?”   After a few months he had a pretty good picture of how it all worked and his comfort level improved dramatically.  Now he was pulled into the grill station on a reasonably slow night when the normal station cook was ill and couldn’t make it in for his shift.  Alex understood degrees of doneness, but keeping a chargrill organized with multiple degrees of doneness, making sure that those hash marks from the grill were spot on, and taking carry over cooking into account was overwhelming.  He made it through that first night with only three re-fires, but it was rough.

The chef made sure that from that point on – Alex was scheduled one night per week on the grill.  Practice makes perfect and in no time he had built a high level of competence and confidence.  Alex saw that the chef was determined to build him into a roundsman – a cook who could work many stations with a high level of skill.  For the first time since washing that first dish while in high school, Alex saw the kitchen as a likely career – one that might even lead to the chef’s position at some point.

Another few months and the chef pulled Alex off of the hot line and scheduled him to shadow the Garde Manger.  “You need to learn the cold side of the kitchen as well.  Garde Manger is where we make our profit.  Salads, appetizers, and desserts are the “extras” that help to turn a restaurant into a successful one.  This is also where you will fine tune your skill at plate presentations.”

To Alex, this seemed like a demotion.  The hot line was where the action was, where teamwork was built, and where the sweat from hard work was most evident.  Garde Manger seemed too light for a cook on the rise.  He would work with Sally who had been at the restaurant for three years – the last two in Garde Manger.  Alex quickly saw that the shear number of components that Sally had to work with made the grill station look like child’s play.  Everything had its own process, most of which fell on Sally’s shoulders unlike the hot line that was serviced by the prep cook.  There were marinades, dressings, poached fruits, sauce reductions, delicate garnishes, artisan cheeses of all types, croustades, washed and spun greens, shucked oysters and clams, poached lobster, pates, and galantines, and the assembly of some pretty intricate desserts that were prepped by the pastry chef in the early morning hours.  It was a lot to organize and assemble – Sally did it so well, with so much finesse.  Alex’s learning curve would be steep.  He dove into the challenge and learned to admire Sally’s skill more and more every day.  He would later find out that she too started on the hot line, but now preferred her artistic station.

Through his on-going training rotation Alex felt himself grow into each position, earn respect from his peers, and slowly become a very good and extremely valuable member of the restaurant kitchen team.  After three solid months in Garde Manger the chef called Alex in to the office.  “Alex, I am very pleased to see how much you have grown and how confident your teammates are in your skill set.  I want to take a step back for the next month and schedule you back in the dish room.  You will start there on Monday.”  The chef left it at that without any explanation.  Alex was crushed and confused.  “This is where I was two years ago.  I thought I was doing a really good job in the kitchen – why is the chef doing this?”  A bit of anger crept into Alex’s psyche and as he walked home he even gave thought to quitting this job and looking to a different restaurant.  The next day, however, he returned to the kitchen thinking that he would show the chef that he was much more talented than wasting his abilities on diving for pearls.

What happened in that first week of dishwashing was both enlightening and humbling.  He began to see the position differently now – he looked at the importance of the dishwasher through the eyes of the cook.  It wasn’t sufficient just to wash sauté pans for the middle station – he wanted to make sure that they were stacked in line with the cooks mise en place, handles pointing a certain way, scrubbed till they glistened, and always perfectly dry before they hit the deep blue flame from the stove.  He made extra sure that plates were perfectly clean, dry, and free of chips and cracks.  He knew now how frustrating it was for a cook to pick up a plate and find out it wasn’t suitable for the assembly of a dish.  He took the time to show servers just how important it was to properly scrape and stack dirty plates to keep the system working well, and he was always on the look out for floor spills that could endanger a cook or server.  He quickly slipped into the role of an excellent dishwasher.

After two weeks, the chef called Alex into the office again.  “You may have wondered why I put you back in the dish area after two years of cooks training.  I think you see now that the objective was to give you a different perspective on how important that position is to the operation of the kitchen.  A great dishwasher can lead to success and a poor one can bring a kitchen down.  I guarantee you that from this point on you will never take the position for granted.   Tomorrow you will begin to learn sauté – our most complicated line position.”

It has been three months now since Alex started on sauté.  He is exceptional at the work, incredibly well organized, spot on as a teammate, and well rounded with his understanding of cooking.  When his look passed on to the expeditor said: “bring it on”, it was because Alex was a confident and competent cook who learned through the school of hard knocks.  He loved what he did and knew that the chef could depend on him to jump into any position where he was needed – even the dish room.  Alex could see into the future and knew that it wouldn’t be long before that first sous chef position came his way.

There is no better way to learn the ropes, become excellent at your craft, and set the stage for a long and fruitful career than learning by doing.  All of these steps are essential.  Look for the opportunities, accept the challenges, enter each phase with an open mind, and build your repertoire in a methodical fashion.  The world is your oyster.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

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A BAKER’S DOZEN LIFE LESSONS FROM A DISHWASHER

05 Wednesday Sep 2018

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Yes, I have talked about the importance of dishwashers before and I stand by my statement that they are the most important people in your kitchen. Just think about the state of your operation any time that the dishwasher doesn’t show up.

How often do you (chef, cook, manager, owner, server, bartender) think about the person, standing by the dish machine as a critical player in defining your success? How many times have you thanked those dishwashers for doing a great job? What level of respect have you ever offered the pearl divers in your kitchen?

If you line up a dozen chefs from different types of operations and ask them where they got their start in the business – I would guess that 11 out of 12 began as a dishwasher. Why then is it so hard for those same people to show a little respect for these critical members of the kitchen/restaurant team?

Having been there myself, and having relished the occasional opportunity to take off my chefs coat and run some trays through the dish monster, I feel qualified to offer some insight through a dish washer’s eyes, into how you should operate – life lessons for cooks, chefs, managers, and servers to connect with.

These life lessons are not in any semblance of order:

[]         EVERYONE DESERVES RESPECT REGARDLESS OF HIS OR HER JOB

This has to be number one. What is ironic about a dishwasher is that he or she is viewed as an interchangeable part until there is no one to do the job. Maybe, just maybe, if attitudes changed the dishwasher might actually stick around.

[]         WHEN YOU FILL THE FIRST SINK WITH DIRTY POTS AND PANS THEN YOU START WASHING WITH DIRTY WATER

It was either Voltaire or Mark Twain who proclaimed that: “Common Sense is Not So Common.” I could never understand the logic behind a cook’s decision to fill up that freshly soaped wash sink with dirty, greasy pots and pans that might not even be scraped and expect that they will come out clean. One pot at a time please!

[]         SCRAPE AND STACK – IT’S NOT THAT HARD

OK chefs – how many times have you walked past the pot sink only to find piles of pots and pans stacked every which way, on the floor, and on top of garbage cans and un-scraped? Of course, the solution is to continue to grab new pots until every one that resides in your kitchen joins that stack of dirty pots waiting for someone to magically clean them in an instant. We wonder why dishwashers show up late or not at all. Cooks need to be part of the solution rather than the primary cause of the problem.

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[]         SQUARE PEG IN A SQUARE HOLE

This applies to front and back of the house. How much effort is required to stack similar plates, pots, platters, and pans together? How difficult is it to put the same glasses in the same glass rack? Those few extra seconds will make everyone’s life a lot more satisfying.

[]         MISE EN PLACE WORKS IN THE DISHPIT AS WELL

Everything has a place and everything is in its place – does that ring a bell? Pre-soaking flatware – put the forks with forks, spoons with spoons, and knives with knives – simple. Stainless pans can go through the dish machine – not a good idea for aluminum. If you place the same glasses in the same glass rack then they can be stored and stacked in an organized fashion once they are washed – simple right? Cook’s knives do not belong anywhere near the dish machine and never left near or in the pot sink. The list goes on and on.

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[]         FEED THE DISHWASHER – MAKE A FRIEND

Should the dishwasher eat better than anyone else? My vote is YES. Nobody else wants to do this hot, sweaty, dirty, thankless job – put a little joy in his or her life. Oh, by the way – treat them like human beings and let them sit down for ten minutes to enjoy the meal. Your food and the dishwasher deserve a little more respect.

[]         RESPECT IS EARNED

Cooks, chefs, and servers – if you want great service from the dishwasher and if you expect respect from that person then treat him or her with that same level of respect. Learn his or her name, know something about the person, say thank you and please, refrain from vulgar labels thrown his or her way, and why not roll up your sleeves for 10 minutes when you get a chance and help that person out. Run a few trays, stack some plates, deliver clean items to their destination, etc. Earn the respect that you demand.

[]         IF MY JOB IS SO UN-IMPORTANT WHY DON’T YOU WANT TO DO IT

“Anyone can wash dishes” – true, but not everyone wants to.

[]         BEAUTIFUL FOOD ON A DIRTY PLATE DOESN’T WORK

How important is that spotless plate to the customer? Try serving your beautiful food with improperly cleaned plates, spotted glassware, or forks with dried egg between the tines. The dishwasher prepares the canvas that allows your painting to draw acclaim.

[]         FUNNY HOW THE LOWEST PAID PERSON IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE MOST EXPENSIVE INVENTORY

Hey chef – think about this one for a moment. What is the value of your Italian china, Riedl glassware, sterling silver, service platters, and the dish machine itself? How much do you spend on cleaning chemicals on a weekly basis? Who is in charge of this substantial inventory? Why…your dishwasher – you know, the lowest paid person in the operation, the one that doesn’t require any skill, and the one that everyone thinks is a replaceable part. Hmmm.

[]         YOUR KNIFE IN A SOAPY SINK IS NOT A HIDDEN TREASURE

The pot washer knows this, so why do some cooks think it doesn’t apply to them? The job is hard enough without grabbing for a hidden pot in that soapy sink only to find your fingers clutching the sharp edge of a knife that you religiously sharpened on a wet stone. Personally, if a cook puts a knife in a sink and walks away he or she should stand next in line to receive a final paycheck.

[]         IS IT POSSIBLE TO PRACTICE CROSS UTILIZATION WITH THOSE POTS
Cooks are always planning – working out a production sheet for the station they are assigned. How about adding a little planning for pot and pan usage at the same time? Could that pan be reused a few times? If each cook was responsible for cleaning his or her own pots and pans you can bet that planning would kick in.

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[]         DISHWASHERS ARE PART OF THE TEAM AS WELL

In the end, it is essential to know that the goal of the restaurant is customer satisfaction. Every person who works in the operation carries the weight of that responsibility. Every person is just as important as the next in making sure that every guest is happy during and after the dining experience – including the dishwasher! Treat that person as well as the host, server, manager, bartender, and every line cook with equal respect – they help you accomplish that ultimate goal and make your job a hell of a lot easier.

I would encourage every chef to post these life lessons on your kitchen bulletin board and draw every person’s attention to it. I would encourage every chef instructor to make these lessons required reading of every student enrolled in a culinary program. I would encourage every chef to start any new kitchen employee out with a week in the dishpit – regardless of the position they were hired for. I would insist that every restaurant manager require every new server, backwait, and bus person to spend a week in the dishpit so that these lessons make sense, and I would insist that every chef who hires culinary interns schedule students to spend a full week scrubbing pots and washing dishes before they earn the privilege of handling food in your kitchen.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

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LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

11 Sunday May 2014

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LINE COOKS ARE THE ENGINE THAT DRIVE A RESTAURANT

It takes many years for a good cook to become a great cook, to become a chef. There is an enormous amount of experience that leads to the ability to lead a kitchen, to create a vision and set the tone for consistently excellent performance. Aside from a strong understanding of foundational cooking technique, the chef must have accumulated an understanding of purchasing, menu planning, human resource management, inventory management, cost control, artistic presentations of food, sanitation and safety, public relations, wine, as well as communication and brand building. Yes, this position is a culmination of a lifetime of skill and aptitude development, however, chefs must never lose sight of the role that line cooks play in the daily successful operation of a kitchen.

Line cooks are the lifeblood of any professional kitchen operation. It is, after all, the line cook who has the responsibility to prepare, develop flavors and consistently execute the menu under what outsiders would consider – inhumane conditions. The chef may be in the driver’s seat, but the line cook is the engine. A driver without a well running engine would not get too far.

I am currently finishing another terrific, accurate book on “a day in the life of a kitchen” that truly depicts the intensity, challenges and incredible skill that a line cook must possess. In this portrayal (Sous Chef, by: Michael Gibney); the author, while living the role of the second in command pays true homage to the line cooks who make his success possible. From experience there are a few realities that drive me to acknowledge the significance of the young, upwardly mobile and sometimes satisfied to stay where they are, pirates of the line.

1. Let’s face it being a line cook is more often than not a younger person’s sport. The physical demands of working the line are only surpassed by the mental acuity that is required as line cooks attempt to keep track of multiple a’ la minute preparations, timings, plating’s and interconnections with other cooks on the line. In my last position as a chef I knew that I could work as hard and longer than most of the cooks in the restaurant (I paid for it with aches and pains that rarely went away), but the older I got the harder it was to process the rapid fire mental activity that is the routine of a line cook. Bending over hundreds of times, 120 degree heat, burns, cuts, clanging of pans, and the speed with which a line cook must act and react is way too challenging for most over the age of 40.
2. Each station on the line is a private entrepreneurship. The set-up, calculated mise en place, position of each ingredient from sliced garlic to clarified butter, from minced shallots to pour bottles of white wine and olive oil and from tongs (a line cooks most important tool) to neatly folded side towels is uniquely that cooks. True, the chef may initially train a cook how to set-up a station, but once they have grown into the position they will inevitably treat that area as if it were their own business. This “seasoning” as a line cook is absolutely critical for the efficient operation of a kitchen and once it is set, it needs to be that way – always.
3. Although a good portion of the pre-work for the line may be done by an earlier prep shift (stocks, mother sauces [where they are still relevant], peeled shallots and garlic, braised meats, fabrication of steaks and chops, filleting of fish, trimming and blanching of vegetables, etc.), it is the line cook who must know how to cook as completely as he or she knows how to breathe. He or she must know how to cook a perfect steak, when to turn a fish on the plancha, the right time to add a splash of wine, how to season items in a pan by holding that salt and pepper above the dish and allowing it to evenly forecast, how much time is left in the cooking process so that the plating of a table’s order can be orchestrated and most importantly; how to taste (a great line cook MUST have a well define palate). The line cook needs to have an eye for plate presentation even though the layout may have originated from the chef and must know how important it is to take a few extra seconds to show the finesse to place each item at its perfect spot on the plate. Maintaining the discipline for all of this to take place is hard to imagine.
4. The chef will undoubtedly know how all of this is done and he or she probably taught the cook early on how to manage these steps, but most chefs, once they reach that position would find it very difficult to step in and do the job as well as a line cook.
5. Finally, the line cook, as I pointed out in a previous article (Life Lessons from a Line Cook) https://harvestamericacues.com/2014/04/11/life-lessons-from-a-line-cook/ must be a consummate communicator and in most cases “listener”. The chef, on a busy night sets the cadence for the line and is the sole voice in the kitchen. Service staff will use the chef/expeditor as the portal for communication with cooks, but line personnel know that it is that voice that they must tune into. When a directive or question is posed, the line cook must zero in on the command, acknowledge it and then network with other stations as they execute the directive. Sometimes this networking is handled with simple eye contact and a nod, other times it will be succinct words like “fire, plate, garnish, sauce, hot, pick-up, hold, etc.”. All of this takes time to develop, but once it is there, the line can hum on all cylinders like each station entrepreneur is electrically connected to each other station and the chef/expeditor. This invaluable relationship is magical and goes way beyond the importance of the chef as an individual.

The dining room may be full of people who have heard of, know about, met or would like to meet – the chef. They may, in fact, have come to the restaurant to try the “chef’s food”, but rarely do they truly understand that the chef was probably never involved in the actual cooking of the dish. The chef is in the limelight and he or she has earned that position through many years of extremely hard work, but the chef could never function without the efforts of the team of line cooks who stay behind those swinging doors. The chef knows this all too well and although he or she may not thank the line enough until there is a gap in staffing, this knowledge that they are where they are because of the dedication and seasoned entrepreneurial spirit of the hourly paid line cook is always present in a chef’s subconscious.

It may seem that I spend an inordinate amount of time talking about cooks, even more than chefs, it is because having experienced a return to a great and reasonably busy chefs position in the later part of my career I learned very quickly how much I depended on these crucial members of the team.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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READ THIS EXCELLENT PORTRAYAL OF KITCHEN LIFE:

Sous Chef
by: Michael Gibney

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ENOUGH WITH INACCURATE TV FOOD SHOWS

06 Sunday Apr 2014

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ENOUGH WITH INACCURATE TV FOOD SHOWS

Nearly everyone in the restaurant business that I know cringes when anyone mentions one of the “reality food shows” on various networks. Inaccurate would not go far enough to describe the environment that is portrayed. Some may clarify and say, well this is really entertainment, but to a professional chef or cook, this “entertainment” does insurmountable harm to a great profession and paints a picture far from reality.

Way too many young people choose to attend culinary school as a result of over-exposure to shows that infer that cooks can wear what they want, chefs can say what they want, everything they prepare is judged by a panel of critics, that whatever piece of equipment they would like to see in a kitchen is available, cost is no object, and everything evolves around the spontaneity of developing a menu on the fly with obscure ingredients. This is not the kitchen of today, nor is it the kitchen that most professionals are used to or would accept. So let’s take a minute to define what it is really like.

The kitchens of Gordon Ramsey with red vs. blue teams, constant screaming (in full view of the guest), belittling of cooks by the chef and everyone looking out for themselves is so far from real that I am not sure where to begin. This is not to say that tempers never rise or that chefs never raise their voice, but the environment portrayed on TV would easily fall under the heading of: hostile work environment, a situation that can bring the department of labor or even lawsuits hovering at the back door of a restaurant. It just cannot happen like this any more. Most of the cooks that I know, if they were attacked in the way that Chef Ramsey is portrayed would either walk out the back door or pin him up against a cooler wall. Professional kitchens today stress the importance of team work, define success in terms of how everyone carries themselves on the job, how the chef attempts to manage calm in the kitchen that could easily melt due to the physical nature of the tasks involved and the pressure surrounding the timing and complexity of preparation.

As much as every chef and cook would love to have $100,000 Bonnet ranges in their operation, beautiful copper pots or Cuisinart cookware, that is rarely the case. Typically we work on ranges that have survived past their useful life and are kept alive through magical maintenance repair work and aluminum pans that are seasoned through heat and salt polishing and are bowed from constant exposure to open flames. The only copper is sitting in the chef’s office and brought out for decoration on dining room buffets. Cooks have been known to hide pots and pans in their lockers to ensure that they have something to work with on their shift (especially breakfast cooks who claim their egg pans are private property never to be touched by any other food except eggs).

Although cooks and chefs today may have a heavy dose of body tattoos, their uniforms are likely to be conservative white jackets, houndstooth pants, skull caps, side towels, white or blue aprons and supportive black shoes. Professional kitchens take pride in the tradition around the uniform and enforce the need for cooks to respect this.

It is very rare that a chef or cook is required to make a spontaneous menu out of silly ingredients that have no business in the same dish. Menus and recipes are developed painstakingly over a period of time with input from cooks, dining room staff and management. Recipes are tested, plate presentations are wrestled with and what appears on a menu is well thought out, researched and executed. Some restaurants are able to offer menus that change daily, but even in those cases – items are drawn from a chefs repertoire or expanded from dishes and techniques previously developed. Chefs take menu development very seriously, even daily features that might be drawn from available ingredient inventory or an occasional item that is driven by an unusual seasonal ingredient.

Iron Chef and Top Chef are sometimes fun to watch, but you may note that basic business acumen rarely comes into play. No one ever worries about the cost of ingredients, the limitless availability of equipment, or what a restaurant would need to charge for the items produced. I have seen dishes with excessive amounts of shaved truffle (probably $25-30 worth of cost on a plate which would equate to $75 or so in additional selling price), foie gras used as if it were the same price as chicken liver, items sautéed in expensive extra virgin olive oil and 25 year old balsamic vinegar drizzled on tomatoes at 10 times the price of a more standard balsamic product. Chefs are responsible for operating a restaurant as a financially successful business and to portray the position as being oblivious to this is terribly misleading.

If the networks want to portray accurate life in the kitchen, then they could find thousands of examples that are exciting, realistic and focused on painting a picture that could be easily digested by those in the industry, those who love to dine out and young people contemplating a career in a professional kitchen. Demonstrate the total commitment to cleanliness, sanitation and food safety. Show a typical day in a chef’s life from menu building, to working with purveyors, training cooks and ensuring that standards are followed, setting up the line for service, pre-meal with the service staff, keeping dishwashers happy, taking the time to build great plate presentations, keeping the rhythm of the line such that cooks don’t crash and burn half way though a busy night, and the challenges of adjusting to food allergies and unique food preferences. Show how a chef sweats the details of cost control: portioning, price shopping with various vendors, waste management, cross-utilization of ingredients, and inventory management. This is a daily challenge that consumes much of a chef’s day.

The restaurant business is very difficult and those who can adapt to the kitchen, understand their role, work well as a member of the team, remain focused on the foundations of cooking and be consistent in their approach to food preparation are a unique, proud breed who needs to be portrayed accurately: MY two cents.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant Consulting, Training and Coaching
http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

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