THAT FIRST NIGHT ON THE LINE ALL OVER AGAIN

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One thing is for sure – we will be back. We don’t know exactly when, or what it might look like, but we will be back. A year has gone by and most cooks have now forgotten what it was like to have a full dining room, to feel the anxiety of the wait for those first tickets, of feeling that you don’t know how things will turn out. It has been a long year of uncertainty that has pulled you away from what you do best; a year that maybe even made you question whether or not this “cooking thing” is what you want to do any more.

It was the exercising of your skills, relying on your competence and confidence, of getting ready for battle and conquering the beast that made you want to crawl out of bed in the morning and face another day of craziness. With all of it’s speed bumps, curve balls, and relentlessness – this job is something that you were good at, something that brought excitement along with a touch of fear, a job that made you feel alive and pushed you to your limits. It has been far too long since you felt all of these emotions.

One day it will all return. One day customers will fill those restaurant seats, look at your menu with anticipation, test your abilities and sometimes your patience, and give you reason to click those tongs with anxious anticipation. I don’t know if it will come this summer or fall, but I do know that the day will come and I hope that you will be ready.

Consider this to be the off-season for cooks, a time to relax a bit and shed some of the stress, but also a time to get into a new rhythm of conditioning. This is the time to build your physical strength, hone your technical skills, exercise your mental acuity, and dig into more of the “why” that you cook a certain way. This is not a time to forget and lose a step, this is a time to get ready for the real season to come, and it will come.

I am certain of this because people need us, our communities need us, the economy needs us, growers and producers need us, and we need to do what we do best – it is our calling to cook. People crave the opportunity to gather again, to laugh and cheer, to break bread and tell stories, to raise a glass and toast to today and tomorrow. This is human nature and it cannot be denied forever – restaurants will rise again as soon as they are able. The time is getting near; if we all work to contain this virus and stand ready to receive the vaccine – the time will come soon.

So here are a few reminders for cooks immersed in the off-season – we are about to enter spring training camp – a time when we put aside what we have lost and bring ourselves into competitive condition.

[] PHYSICAL STRENGTH

You remember – don’t you? Pulling a 10-12 hour shift off is physically demanding. You will be on your feet for most of that time, always lots of movement – turning, lifting, bending, stretching to reach, using your shoulders and back, and gripping and flipping filled sauté pans allowing the food to dance with the syncopation of orders coming and going. You will need to be ready for this. You will perform best if you are in condition. This is the time to immerse in a physical exercise regiment. Walking, running, weight lifting, sit-ups, push ups, chin ups, hand exercises, stretching and good nutrition will be the keys. Keep that weight down and hone your diet to that of one most aligned with an athlete. GREAT LINE COOKS REALLY ARE ATHLETES!

[] MENTAL ACUITY

Being able to think clearly is essential if you are to win the battles on the line. Remember – those orders will come at you with relentless rapidity. The expeditor will challenge your retention skills, the steps in cooking that differ from dish to dish will test your memory, your flavor memory will be your friend once again as you taste-season-taste, and your ability to problem-solve when things go sideways will be your saving grace more times than you can imagine right now. Take time every day to walk through those steps in cooking that made you superb at your job; run through all of those problem scenarios that came your way in the past and jot down how you solved (or failed to solve) the problem, and push yourself to multi-task in your current environment – fill your head with too much to do and try like crazy to work your way through the list.

[] SKILL TUNING

It will be the foundations again that save the day, that will make you valuable to an employer, that will separate you from those who don’t quite have what it takes. Knife skills, mise en place, sanitation, and speed and dexterity are all part of your bag of tricks. Practice them at home or work even when business volume doesn’t demand it. Keep your knives sharp, organize yourself every day, and keep your lists of things to do (even if not related to cooking) – all of this will pay off when that day arrives.

[] KNOWLEDGE

Read professional cookbooks, study the cuisine that you are focused on, and make a list of those processes that you followed in the kitchen – “because that’s the way you were taught” – and commit to finding out “why” those processes are important. Commit to being more knowledgeable when business returns – the more you know the more confident you will become.

[] TEAM BUILDING

I know it’s hard to work on team skills when the team is not together, but what you can do is to mentally walk through scenarios in the past that can help to drive your “team savvy” approach in the future. Think about those actions of yours or others that drove a wedge between team members and think through ways of avoiding that in the future. Write down those “team defeating” actions that drove you crazy in the past and commit to working through them in a more positive way in the future. Think about “why” things might have gone sideways in the past and how honest sharing with the team can help to work through those events in the future. Don’t let correctible problems raise up their ugly head in the future and put a damper on the effectiveness of a team.

[] RE-COMMIT TO YOUR COMMITMENT

Most importantly, this is a time to ask yourself a very important question: “Now that I have been forced to step back or step away from the life of a cook – do I want to jump back in when the opportunity arises? Am I willing and able to re-commit what it takes to be GREAT at what I do?” If the answer is “no or I’m not sure” – then this is a perfect time to start thinking about your next career choice. If the answer is “yes” then roll up your sleeves and get to work on your conditioning. The time WILL come when restaurants are back in full swing.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

CAFÉ Talks Podcast

COOKS – GETTING BACK INTO THE ZONE

06 Saturday Jun 2020

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chefs, cooks, cooks in the zone, Kitchens after Covid-19, line cooks, line work, restaurants

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Take a deep breath as you walk through those back doors, back into the kitchen that was so familiar, back to a place that you have missed for the past three months. Somehow you are nervous – why is that? You’re not as nervous about the virus as you are being able to hit the ground running. This is a job that has always required you to be on your game, to be able to zig and zag, solve those little problems that crop up every day, finding your pace, organize your station, and respond with syncopation and confidence when those orders start to roll off the printer. How will you be able to perform – that is the question that is churning in your stomach, that brings beads of sweat to your forehead, and that clouds your vision as you make that first step into the kitchen.

Things are certainly different as you pull on your N-95 mask, nod to your teammates while trying to keep a safe distance, scrub your hands for the first of 25 times today, sanitize your work area and your tool kit, grab your station prep list and start to work. The chef has some background music playing from his iPhone as a way to lighten the tension, and although the conversation is less engaged as it once was, people begin to throw around some of the typical banter. “Hey, I hope your knife skills didn’t get any more pathetic than they use to be”, “ I hope the chef stocked up on extra band aids now that you are back in the kitchen”, and a few other slights that are a bit more graphic. Somehow, the banter makes you feel relaxed, relieves that knot in your stomach, and brings hope to quell those fears that you have about your ability to adapt.

ine-cook

Soon the cadence of work lightens the mood and that muscle memory kicks in as you charge through vegetable prep and begin to trim tenders and strip loins, cut steaks, peel and devein shrimp, clean Divers scallops, flatten chicken breasts, and fillet various types of fish for your station.

You nick one of your fingers with a boning knife and it bleeds like a bastard. Trying not to let others see your sloppy mistake you wrap it in a side towel and make a stealth move towards the rest room. You wash and dry the cut (damn, it’s on the tip of my index finger where it is impossible to stop the bleeding) wrap it tightly with three band-aids and double up your gloves hoping that the blood won’t give away your misguided knife handling. Back to work – the only thing hurt is your ego.

“Hey Jake – you cuttin steaks or fingers the rest of the day?” Damn – busted. Of course, now you will be the butt of everyone’s jokes for the next couple hours. The chef walks past you and just smiles. Well, at least you broke the ice.

Everyone is trying hard to bring back some semblance of “normal”, but the air is heavy, as each cook knows that nothing is normal anymore. The chef had sent everyone a list of new protocols before they arrived, so routines of old were out the window.

You notice a delivery truck arrive with supplies – even this is part of the change that the virus has brought to the restaurant. The driver is no longer allowed to simply wheel in supplies and unload them in coolers, freezers, and dry goods storage. Items are received at the back entrance where boxes will be opened, cardboard immediately discarded to outside recycling bins, and each item is wiped with bleach cloths before transferred to storage. This is an all hands on deck process that eats away at time that would have normally been spent on prep. No one is happy about this added process, yet everyone feels that sense of responsibility for everyone’s safety and wellbeing.

Back to prep, that is after scrubbing hands again, re-sanitizing your work station, adjusting your mask that has begun to cause a rash on your face, and turning in your apron for one that is fresh and sanitary. Now that sense of urgency returns, the knowledge that there is more work to complete than there is time – you dive into the details for your station. Time to clarify butter, blanch and shock vegetables, reduce stocks for sauce work, mince herbs, refill bottles of wine and olive oil, prepare garnishes, season your pans, fire up the grill and salamander, and fold your side towels as you always had in the past. Thirty minutes more and that POS printer will begin to talk once again.

Now things begin to seem right. Comfort and confidence overtake angst and doubt as every cook instinctively falls back into his and her pace. This is what they are trained to do, this is their calling, this is that point in time when their skills point the way and cooking becomes part of their reflex. Cooks mark steaks and chops at their chargrill and fall back into a comfort zone of knowing degrees of doneness. Sauté quickly remembers how to multi-task: hot pan, clarified butter, scored skin on the fish fillet hits that screaming hot pan, keep the pan in motion so it doesn’t stick, sear to a golden brown, baste the fish, hit it with a touch of salt and deglaze the pan with white wine – push the pan aside until pick up. Another hot pan – no two, two orders of tournedos on the fly. A quick sear of salted meat – both sides. Deglaze with a touch of Madeira and a splash of demi. A spin of fresh cracked pepper and then remove the meat. Finish reducing the pan sauce, add some chopped parsley and return the meat to coat. Plates up – toast medallions, fillets, sear two cut pieces of foie gras in a dry hot pan (it only takes a few seconds) sear both sides and top off the fillets – mask with sauce madeira and a few shavings of black truffle – four pieces of perfect asparagus and two baby carrots tossed in butter – slide the plates into the pass. “Give me an all day”: the expeditor calls out: one more tournedos – rare, three shrimp, two Dourade fillets, four chicken picatta, and one vegetable tart – all have apps coming up first – fire the first Dourade right now!

The pace continues to quicken and everything seems to slide into that slow motion groove of a cook in control. All he hears is the commands from the expeditor and the ticking cadences of the printer. Everything is under control as his mental state is total focus on the work. This cook is there, he is back, he feels the adrenaline coursing through his veins, and sees things clear again. This is what he missed over the past three months. All his uncertainty is put aside – he is back.

At some point the board is almost clear – he looks to Janis to his left on apps and Greg on the broiler. They both have smiles on their faces. They too overcame their fear and rose to the occasion. No one struck out or lost his or her poise – the night was winding down and the day was won. The expeditor gives them a thumbs-up and the chef simply nods. Good cooks don’t forget, it’s like riding a bike – it only took one push to adjust to the new normal and get their confidence back. A few high fives and then it’s back to cleaning and making notes for what tomorrow will bring.

This time of uncertainty has left everyone shaken. Cooks and chefs in particular rely on protocols and systems and uncertainty never sits well with them. The time will come when restaurants will be back and cooks find their groove once again. The swagger of line cooks will return and the gratification of plating that perfect dish will bring a smile to their faces. It will happen soon enough – be patient.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

We are in this together

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

OUR DAILY BREATH: TAKING THE KITCHEN OUT OF THE COOK IS PROBLEMATIC

24 Tuesday Mar 2020

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adrenaline, chefs, cooks, line cooks, restaurants

ine-cook

We have all heard the phrase: “You can take the cook out of the kitchen, but you can’t take the kitchen out of the cook.” While there is certainly some merit to this statement, the current isolation is pushing the envelope in that regard. Why is it so hard to take the kitchen out of the cook?

I am sure that this reality applies to other fields and trades, but I do believe that it is much more pronounced with cooks. Here is why:

Kitchen work is a way of life, similar to career military. To meet the needs of the consistently inconsistent environment of the kitchen – chefs need to apply a level of discipline and organization that rivals that of a military platoon. Because of the level of multi-tasking required and the speed with which cooks need to act and react – organization must be as structured as the checklist that a pilot walks through every time he or she enters the cockpit. And – due to the level of split second communication that takes place throughout a kitchen day – these operations develop their own language that is a cross between French, Italian, and street-smart urban English. We (cooks) look a certain way, act a certain way, talk a certain way, and interact a certain way – all for the good of the tasks at hand. Without this structure the kitchen would surely go astray.

Cooks and chefs learn to plan effectively, run through various scenarios so that planning takes all potential curve balls into consideration; they need to walk through their production check list and prioritize items based on their timing and complexity; they need to remember a thousand different steps that distinguish one product preparation from another; they must have a photographic memory of how each plate is assembled; they must be able to multi-task and make split second decisions regarding the sequence of cooking and plating; and they must do all of this with minimal steps and an acute level of concentration.

When everything gets intense during a meal rush – the cook’s adrenaline is pumping at breakneck speed while each step, in the cook’s mind, seems to slow down and become crystal clear. This is when the cook is in the zone – a special place that is driven by adequate preparation, loads of experience, and heightened awareness.

When the shift is over – a cook’s heart is still beating hard, that adrenaline is still coursing through his or her veins, the cook’s mind is still racing, and thoughts of tomorrow are already creating a package of anticipation and high anxiety. At the end of a shift – the cook cannot turn this off, this feeling of accomplishment, exhilaration, pride, and a sense for the exhaustion that is about to set in.

So, now the cook’s restaurant is closed. There are no longer any prep sheets, the requisite uniform is no longer required, no need for those knives to be sharp, no impending doom if his or her mise is not in order, no tickets ringing off the printer, no unison chants of “yes chef”, no plates to artistically assemble, and no delicious food to see, smell, and taste. There is a serious vacuum in a cook’s life, a sense of being incomplete, an absence of adrenaline highs, and a serious absence of the interplay between team members that brings that cook back to work, seeking more enjoyable punishment and impossible tasks once again. This is not a joke – this is a physical, mental, emotional, and even at some level – a spiritual letdown.

While we wrestle with all of the issues surrounding the fear of Covid-19 and the potential impact on personal health and financial stability – let’s not forget how deflated those cooks from your operation are. How lonely and despondent they probably are – lost without the discipline and logic behind the work that they normally do. Cooks need to work – they need a purpose, a purpose that the kitchen oftentimes fills.

Chefs and restaurateurs need to stay in touch with those cooks and where possible, engage them in some level of work with a deadline. This is important for the cook’s wellbeing. Is there a need to produce free meals for a local soup kitchen, an opportunity to work on recipe development in their homes, is their some long-overdue maintenance or painting work to be done in your restaurant while still practicing social distancing? At least they can feel at home in the kitchen even if there aren’t any orders to fill. This is important for a cook’s mental and emotional health.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

We’re in this together – Don’t 86 us

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

COOKS – THE COMFORT OF HEAT, SWEAT, AND HARD-WORK

28 Tuesday Jan 2020

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chef, cook's stress, cooks, culinary, heat of the kitchen, kitchen, line cooks, restaurants

Staring at the POS printer, waiting for those orders to start their tap dance building to a crescendo in an hour or so, clicking a pair of tongs by your side, shifting weight from one foot to the other, and beads of sweat beginning to roll down your back and collect under that scull cap that fits just a bit too tight – is this one of those moments when you begin to wonder what in the world you are doing?

Physical work is stressful and gratifying at the same time. Sweat and aching muscles is uncomfortable, yet somehow a sign of work worth doing. Building beautiful, flavorful, aroma filled, satisfying dishes for people every night is a result of this hard work, this sweat, and these aching muscles. These tangible works are also a result of an intelligent approach to a process, constant reference to flavor memory, and a level of mental and physical organization that is parallel to that of an architect, a pilot, or a surgeon – this is work that is far more complex that many give it credit for. There is also the emotional part – putting it all out there for others to critique leaving the cook wondering: “what did they think?” We sweat not just due to the heat, not simply because we are physically all in, but also because cooking is draining intellectually, emotionally, and even spiritually. Being a cook is complicated.

You know that those orders are coming – in just a few minutes that printer will push out that relentless sound of more orders than you think you can handle. This is the most stressful time – let’s get on with it! You remember a couple quotes that stick in your brain:

“Talent is cheaper than table salt. What separates the talented individual from the successful one is a lot of hard work.”

-Stephen King

Ok, you can understand that for sure. You think that you have some talent as a cook, but you KNOW that you put in the effort and then some. You wonder: “Is there a difference between talent and hard work when you come down to it?” How many successful people do you know who work hard without talent? Maybe their talent is knowing what they don’t know and finding ways to get things done anyway. Anyway – soon enough those orders will fill that space in your brain that is wandering right now. Then there was that other quote:

“It’s not so much whether you win or lose, it’s how you play the game.”

-Grantland Rice

Right….try telling that to the chef or the owner. You are part of a line team – there is no room for failure. If you fail, so will the rest of the team. One mistake can lead to chaos on a busy night. This is not the place or the time to learn from your mistakes – NO MISTAKES, NO MISTAKES! “Damn – let’s get these orders in before I start to over-think everything.”

Maybe, just maybe, this sweat and these aching muscles, maybe the nervous energy that is obvious from my dance of anticipation, maybe all of this is fuel for the job ahead. Stay calm, stay calm. I sure hope that my mise en place is tight enough. Did I mince enough shallots, clarify enough butter, flatten enough chicken breasts, and peel enough shrimp? Let me check those scallops again – did I clean them properly? Where are my backups on vegetables, extra bottles of white wine for deglazing? What is the temp on those sauces in the bain-marie? Let me draw my knives over that wet stone one more time – can’t afford a dull knife. You look to the expeditor and tell him to grab you a few more side towels – can never have too many.

restaurant-food

The sweat is starting to pool up on your back, feet are hurting from inactivity, and hands are cramping up from nerves. Come on with the orders already! You stack and restack plates, move your pan handles a few degrees to the right, and fold and refold those side towels. You drop your tongs – CRAP! Run over to the pot sink and wash them quick. Grab another pair as a back-up.

You grab another energy drink and kick it back like it was that after shift first beer. You look to your right and look to your left. Acknowledge the rest of the team and share a few fist bumps. It is coming – you can feel it. Then, the sound you were all waiting for – the printer spits out that first early-bird deuce. Both items for the grill – nothing for you – damn. A few seconds later – a four top – all yours. Here we go. You grab four pans and slide them onto burners – make sure the pans are hot first. Two orders of Diver Scallops, a Chicken Piccata, and Tournedoes Rossini mid-rare. An ounce of clarified butter for the chicken (dredge it in flour and give it some great caramelization – keep the pan moving), a touch in the pans for the scallops (sear them on one side and pull away from the heat for finishing later), and a little more heat in the pan for the tournedoes (this item will be done last minute). The expeditor had called the table as an order fire (no appetizers – ready to rock) – but you know that it is best to wait to finish until the server is standing on the other side of the pass. Two minutes is all it will take to finish this four top.

Pull the caramelized chicken breast and put it aside, add sliced mushrooms to the pan and a touch more butter. Caramelize the shrooms and deglaze with white wine, and fresh lemon. Sweat is pouring freely down your back now. Two more orders just came in – a few items from your station that can wait until this four top is gone. The server appears and the expeditor calls out – pick up on that four top. “Yes chef”! Chicken back in the pan – the flour from the dredged chicken blends with the white wine and lemon and the sauce comes together. A few capers and chopped parsley and this dish is ready to go. The scallops return to a fresh hot pan to finish the sear, hit the pan with a touch of wine, salt and pepper and done. While you and the middleman plate up the first three dishes – the tournedoes hit the very hot pan for a sear along with two slices of foie gras. Flip all items quickly – cooking only takes a minute. Deglaze the beef with Madeira and demi-glace and assemble the dish on toast medallions – top with some truffle shavings and off it goes to the pass. Four top complete. Move on to the next order.

You wipe your brow, take a drink of water and start with fresh pans. The orders keep coming. Now the expeditor is in control of your world. He tells you what to start, what to finish, and what to plate. Every few moments you ask for an “all day” (a review of what should be working on your station), and back to it. No time to chat with others – an occasional look or nod is enough of a signal. Plates are flying now – you turn to plate up an item and the dish is there ready with accompaniments. Only one re-fire so far (you hate that, but try to push it out of your mind).

For the next three hours – this is the frantic pace of the line. Those 180 minutes go by in a flash. You stay on top of your station cleanliness and are relieved to see that your mise en place is holding up. A few little finger burns from hot pan-handles, nothing you can’t work through, and one dropped item to replace – not bad. You haven’t screwed up any orders or messed up your teammates thus far. You are now working like a well-oiled machine. Your brain works through processes, your palate is fine tuned, and there is real economy of motion in the steps that you take.

When 9 p.m. rolls around – the board is almost clear. Just a couple deuces to finish up and that inevitable table that arrives 15 minutes before closing, but you breathe out knowing that you made it through another night.

Painted in Waterlogue

By 10:30, it’s all over. You breakdown your station, scrub your area, chill sauces, label and date items, make out your prep list for tomorrow and a friendly note to the morning prep cook. The sous chef points his finger and gives you a “thumbs up”. The mental and emotional stress is over – the physical pains will take a few hours to come to the surface, but you know they are there. Hey, it’s good pain – an honest days work. The heat, sweat, and hard effort feel OK. This is what you do, and this is how it is suppose to feel.

Tomorrow is another day.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

WORK HARD, SWEAT A LOT, AND SMILE WHEN IT IS OVER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

WHEN A COOK IS TRULY IN THE ZONE

23 Thursday Jan 2020

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chefs, cooks, in the zone, kitchen, line cooks, restaurant kitchens

cooks

In the zone is a phrase commonly used to describe a musician, athlete, or even a cook who experiences an “everything going right” situation, and when the person, or persons, involved are totally focused on the task at hand– but, being fully in the zone is really so much more.

When a musician is in the zone – he or she becomes one with the instrument – feeling, sensing, and intellectually connected as the instrument becomes an extension of who that person is. The audience can see and hear this phenomenon as real magic occurs. I have witnessed this with some incredible musical talent: Stanley Jordan, the incredible jazz guitar genius can close his eyes, block out all that is around him, and offer his uniquely original style of plucking with both hands and expressing through his instrument what he is feeling inside. Aurelien Pontier, a world-class French pianist finds his heart, soul, and fingers in total sync as he perfectly executes all of the nuances of a Rachmaninov piano concerto – some of the most difficult music to feel and play. And, the late Al Jareau could seem to drift off the stage while every inch of his being was engaged with scat vocal interpretations of jazz instruments. These great musicians were able to float into the zone and release more than music; they were facilitators of a musical experience.

Michael Jordan defied gravity when he was in the zone; Steve Kerr made it seem as if hitting three-point shots was inevitable; Simone Beal tumbled through the air and stuck a perfect landing as if the mat, bench, or parallel bars were simply there to accent her perfection; and Joe Montana and Jerry Rice were in such sync that no defensive player was ever able to disrupt another touchdown. These athletes were able to switch on their relationship with the zone, at will.

Every line cook and chef has experienced those nights when things go right. Timing is perfect, plates are beautiful, food is prepared as it should be, and service staff appears the moment that plates are put in the pass. To all of us who have been there – this would seem to describe a “zone” event. But that out-of-world experience that truly defines being in the zone requires much more. A cook in the zone feels the joy of a perfect palate for seasoning, the ability to hear, see, and smell when an item is perfectly done, all other line personnel are able to sense what needs to be done next without being told or asked, the plate is ready to receive an item from the grill before the line cook needs to request it, and a simple nod or cursory eye contact from the chef or expeditor is enough to signal what must be done next. Being in the zone is a total sensual experience, and intellectual connection, an emotional alignment, and a physical melding of activity that is a fluid and tight as a perfectly synchronized symphonic orchestra. The experience is rarely planned or anticipated; yet without organization, skill, planning, and confidence it will never happen.

Have you been there? The planets are aligned – those orders clicking off the POS seem to suddenly move in slow motion. Every nuance of understanding is there as the cook assimilates what the expeditor calls off, organizes those orders in his or her head, and begins the structured process of starting a sear, deglazing a pan, reducing a pan sauce, and grabbing pans that are at the ready and hot so that the process is not delayed. You taste, season, and taste and your flavor memory bank kicks into motion as adjustments are made to each pan making sure that the end result is a consistent product. Plates are meticulously assembled so that they look exactly like that picture in the cook’s mind and when the chef calls fire and pick-up, those pans are returned to the stove for finishing and assembled plates are slide into the pass where the expeditor adds an herb garnish and wipes the plates edge. It all seems so easy tonight, so natural, and so much in sync with everything and everyone. Have you been there?

Are you in the zone – really? If you are – is it good luck or something else? So, how does a cook or chef set the stage for “in the zone” experiences? Here are some essential elements:

[] SKILL MASTERY

It would be impossible to experience the scenario portrayed without having mastered those foundational skills that are part of a cook’s bag of tricks. Superior knife skills, a full understanding of all the cooking methods, flavor memory, impeccably tight mise en place, time management, and a deep understanding of each ingredient, its flavor profile and how it acts and reacts under certain conditions and in combination with other ingredients. Being in the zone is no accident.

[] ORGANIZATION

Take a moment to observe an excellent cook’s station. It is precise, always clean, perfectly spaced, and always so even during the busiest time of service. Don’t mess with a cook’s station – it is exactly how he or she needs and wants it. The cook can point to everything in that station – blindfolded. Back-ups are ample and are labeled and easy to access. Towels are folded a certain way, every plate is checked for cleanliness, water spots, chips and cracks. Nothing is left to chance.

[] TEAM DYNAMICS

When zone work is realized it is because every member of the team knows his or her job and is equally prepared, and every member of the team also knows every other station and can step in at any time and function with the same level of efficiency and passion as the person who typically owns it. It’s all about team.

[] PRACTICE COMMUNICATION

Just as best friends, brothers and sisters, spouses and significant others know what the other is thinking or about to do, so too must team members on the line have the ability to anticipate the action of others, use verbal and non-verbal communication techniques, and function, as a result, as one cohesive unit. Have you been there?

Painted in Waterlogue

[] RESPECT

Respect and Trust are one and the same when it comes to preparing for “in the zone” work. When the magic happens it is because every member of the team is aware of strengths and weaknesses of others and respects what can be done and what needs to be done to make sure actions are seamless. Respect must be earned daily on these teams and it is easy to see that the last thing that a cook would ever do is to allow that trust to wane. Have you been there?

[] PRACTICE

If you are waiting for luck to create those beautifully orchestrated service events – you will be waiting a long time. Whether it is a sports team, a band or orchestra, a military platoon, or line team in a restaurant – practice does make perfect. Every service is another opportunity to fine tune, to discuss those things that are not yet right, and practice ways to bring them there. Individuals or teams that are “in the zone” got there through meticulous practice.

travis

[] UNDERSTANDING

Michael Jordan knew everything about the ball, the court, the game, and his competition. He understood how to approach a game. Aurelien Pontier became Rachmaninov when he sat at the piano to play one of his compositions, he understands muscle memory, how to accent a certain phrase in a piece, how high to lift his hands, and how strong or soft to lay his fingers on the keys. A great cook must understand everything about the menu, the ingredients, the cooking process, the flavor profile, the history and traditions behind the design of a dish, colors and textures, and even how to lay out a plate to emphasize its uniqueness. True understanding is behind every “in the zone” experience.

If you have truly been in the zone, then you understand the depth of satisfaction that comes from control over that experience. When you are ready then that experience can be predicted and expected. When others are able to witness this in the works then the chaos of the kitchen seems to flow like a well-orchestrated piece of music, or a perfect game. Great teams can somehow make it look easy, but in reality it is nothing more than great planning, meticulous work, loads of practice, and un-compromised levels of confidence in this process.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Prepare yourself for the ZONE

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

Aurelien Pontier plays Rachmaninov

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMkfIx5Hy4Y

Stanley Jordan plays Eleanor Rigby

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4M22XWM2qbo

Al Jareau sings Step-by-Step

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AA1C-_OfQY

When Air Jordan was born

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mny1kAxF2zQ

Simone Beal on the balance beam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7LzYjEsu-w

Montana to Rice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH4_zSPB7XQ

The dance at a Michelin starred restaurant

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0yisRiLwGA

HERDING CATS – THE MAKEUP OF A KITCHEN LINE

03 Friday Jan 2020

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, kitchen team, line cooks

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Chemistry is by far, the most important ingredient in building a successful kitchen team. When a chef is able to bring a group of seemingly opposing forces together into a functional, well-orchestrated team then great things happen. This, however, is no easy task given the different dynamics that exist among the players.

Kitchens tend to be extraordinary melting pots that attract a wide array of characters who, despite their differences, seem to rally around a few common traits: they like food, they are somewhat competitive, they enjoy the adrenaline rush, and they are a pretty proud group.

So, in giving some thought to the different types of individuals who stumble or rush head first into a kitchen career, I came up with ten categories of cook types (you may have a few others to add on your own) – see where you fit.

PIRATES

Ah…the kitchen pirate. These are seasoned veterans of the line with all the battle scars to prove it. They have fantastic stories to tell (some of them might even be true). The pirate is crusty, seemingly uncaring about anyone who doesn’t tie on an apron, impatient with others, and always ready to walk out if things start to go sideways. On the other hand – these are the battle veterans who can pull you out of a jam when the team would otherwise crash and burn. They probably won’t stay with you very long, but they will make their mark while they are with you. They have likely worked at nearly every busy restaurant in the area and are known to all.

MYSTERIOUS UNKNOWNS

Most cooks are pretty transparent – they tell you more than you really want to know about their past, present, and future; who they like and why, and who is not on their Christmas Card list. The mysterious unknown is different. They are quiet and reserved, no one in the restaurant seems to have a clue about them and as a result there is no shortage of illicit theories of shady pasts, possible criminal records, and worries about when they might snap. Ironically, they are usually there when they need to be, prepped and ready, and consistent in their work – so, we gladly hire them (whomever they might really be).

CULINARY CAREERISTS

Usually, a recent graduate or a current school intern with starched white uniforms, polished shoes, and perfectly sharpened knives. They want to do the right thing and are quick to tell more seasoned cooks how to “do the work properly.” What they know is untested, and speed is typically not their forte. They have lots of books, know all the hot chefs, have a well thought out career path, and want to be the star. Typically, the more seasoned staff will find ways to temper their unbridled enthusiasm, prod them when they get behind, and even try to get them to stumble and become humble. They mean well, they just don’t know any better. They will learn from their mistakes and unless they lose that enthusiasm along the way – will probably reach the position of chef some day (it just doesn’t seem like that is possible right now).

DEPENDABLE LONERS

Always at work on time and ready to go, always properly prepped, and always on top of presentations – the dependable loner is an important part of every team. When another cook calls out sick – the chef knows that he or she can call in the loner to cover a shift. They do not socialize with the rest of the group, they rarely engage in conversation, they never have a joke to share – but they do their work, and do it well. Who knows what ghosts are in their closet.

ANNOYING PERFECTIONISTS

Obsessive/compulsive cooks seem to find their way into every kitchen where I have worked. They are usually great cooks, and very dependable. Their base of knowledge is typically better than most, and their execution is flawless. Their methods evolve around very structured approaches to the work, an exactness that they try and impose on others, and obsessive behavior that works in strange ways. Their mise en place is precise and they will correct everyone else’s if given the chance. When they see something out of place they can become distraught and even unraveled. If that towel isn’t folded just so, the knife placed in the right location each time, the handles on pans pointed in a particular direction, or plates assembled precisely each time – they can become abusive to others or at least to themselves. They are a strange lot, but in some respects – the standard bearer for others.

THE CHEF’S PET

Occasionally, “yes chef” goes beyond a simple communication that everyone understands, and a sign of respect for the position – sometimes “yes chef” comes from that individual always seeking extra attention from the chef and being needy for recognition. Cooks deal with them, but roll their eyes.

SIMPLY CONTENT TYPE “B”

The simply content are just solid cooks. They know their work, they can do much of it without even breaking a sweat, they are astute technicians, and they are always there when scheduled. Type B’s have the ability to work their shift, immediately decompress from the chaotic adrenaline rush of a busy restaurant, and forget about the job until they tie on an apron tomorrow. They have little interest in hanging around to laugh about a good service, have no interest in working an extra shift, and have little to no desire to move up the kitchen career ladder. They just want to do their job well, receive a paycheck, and go home.

IN NEED OF ANGER MANAGEMENT

You know them – every restaurant has at least one. The cook in need of anger management walks into the kitchen with a black cloud above his or her head. Their eyes are steely and cutting, the frowns are pronounced, and the aura around them says: “don’t mess with me today.” After a while other cooks, and even chefs tend to just avoid them and hope that they can get through another shift without an incident. The black cloud cook can grate at the chemistry that holds a team together and create negative work environments for others. Even if they are very good at their job – this type of cook may need to go for the good of the team.

EVERYBODY’S CHEERLEADER

Then there is the person who tries to be the sunshine in everyone’s day (sometimes successfully). The cheerleader enters the kitchen with a smile and a good word, looks for every opportunity to give a high five or a fist bump, complements others for quality work, and gets excited when the team tops another record for covers served, or check averages beat. When things get tough, the team looks to the cheerleader for a little encouragement.

DEEPLY PARANOID

The conspiracy theorists are alive and well. Whatever the reason is for a change, they are uncomfortable with the methods used and leery of anyone who makes a decision. When someone pays them a complement, their reaction is: “why are you complementing me?” They are always looking over their shoulder for someone to find fault or something to go wrong. They look at every successful night as one more where they didn’t face disaster.

Ironically, this is what I have always enjoyed the most about working in kitchens. The chance to work with, and find common ground with all of this diversity is fun and invigorating. On the surface it may appear that synergy is impossible, yet with common goals and a chef who understands the complexity – chaos can turn into harmony.

What kind of cook are you?

**By the way, if you are one of those cooks enrolled in a culinary program and wondering what course will be of greatest benefit to your career – try psychology and sociology.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

A COOK’S ANXIETY – A MOMENT IN TIME

08 Friday Nov 2019

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chefs, cooks, cooks anxiety, culinary, dinner rush, kitchen life, line cooks

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It’s 5:15, 120 degrees in front of the battery of ranges, and sweat is pouring down every cook’s back, dripping off their foreheads. This is moment in time, like the starting line for an important race, when adrenaline is pulsing through a cook’s veins, fingers are tingling in anticipation, knees are a little weak, and that 5-minute cold sandwich that was inhaled while standing over a garbage can isn’t sitting too well. Time to pop back another espresso, click those tongs a little faster, bounce from foot to foot while trying to keep the knees limber, and fold and refold those side towels again. It’s game time!

Sometimes we put on a good face – cool and calm – totally in control, but underneath we are stressed out most of the time. We can’t really ignore the adrenaline – to do so would stall out the engine, cloud our concentration, and lead to mistakes. “Slow” is the curse for a line cook. Idle time results in a loss of focus – a dangerous situation in the kitchen. Stress, at some level is an essential element – this is the edge of the knife, the seasoning of a sauté pan, and the blue flame from a char-grill. Stress is the spice that makes it all work.

Just like over-seasoning of a dish, or moving an item from perfect caramelization to burn – too much stress can turn the beauty of team symmetry and the confidence that comes from preparation-to chaos, loss of direction, and disaster. Total system collapse in a kitchen is always a few steps away from fine-tuned orchestration. Line cooks live on this precipice every day.

Those fleeting moments before the rush are filled with over-thinking, nervous energy, tingling fingers, throbbing back muscles, and multiple head games that push a cook to think about everything that could go wrong. Every serious cook lives by the rules of Murphy’s Law: if something can go wrong – it will.

The line cook looks to the right and left and gives a thumbs-up and fist bump to each team member. This is both a sign of readiness and a signal that the team is in this together. “I have your back – you have mine.”

The first orders start to trickle in at 5:15 – the early birds have arrived. Cooks like this short build up – it gives the line a chance to adjust, to build their rhythm. Much like a quarterback in a critical game – the expeditor can use this time to adjust a game plan and even audible on the line. Planning is critical, but so is the ability to problem solve and adjust.

A few steaks and chops, trout meuniere, pan seared duck breast, a few orders of diver scallops and a smattering of apps from the fry station: so far – so good. Cooks are loosening up – the cadence of work is accented by the staccato of clicking tongs, and the banter of “ordering” and “yes chef”. Everyone is on his or her toes – they know what is coming next. Each line cook checks and double checks his or her mise en place, touches each part of his or her station, re-folds side towels one last time, and wipes down their counter space.

It’s 6 p.m. now and things are about to change. The host peeks her head in the kitchen and says: “the dining room just filled –hang on, here it comes!” BAM! Just like that – the POS starts spitting out tickets faster than the expeditor can call them off. Now the team is energized, the slow build up allowed them to dot the “i’s” and cross the “t’s”, so confidence is pretty high. That adrenaline will be put to good use now as pans start flying on and off the flat top, flames from the char-grill leap 4 inches high, and the smell of great cooking fills the air. Sweat is pouring off the foreheads of everyone on the line and soaking the rims of their skullcaps. There is a bounce in everyone’s step as they pivot from the range and grill to the service line. “Pick up on table 34!” The answer from all in unison is: “Yes chef”. “Order/fire on that deuce that just came in.” “Yes chef”. “Jake – how long on that medium well veal chop (ugh)?” “Probably 8-minutes chef”. “Sue, I need a re-fire on that trout meuniere – he wants it very well done!” “Yes chef”.

The line is peaking right now. The board is filled with tickets and the expeditor is waiting on a table of 10 that is already 15-minutes late. This really pisses off the chef – the guest is always right, but few understand how tight everything is and how a late reservation can throw everything off. The host just tapped the chef on his shoulder and said that the 10 top just arrive, but now its 14. Great – right in the middle of the rush. “Heads up! We have a 14 top coming in soon – let’s try and clear some of the board before then.”

By 7:30 most of the dining room is served and the 14 top entrees just went out. The chef sent out an amuse bouche to buy some time and the table ordered a pile of apps – everything is working out. The dining room will partially fill again by 8:30, so it’s time to replenish mise en place, clean up every station, kick back a few more espressos, have each cook splash some water in their face, and take a quick accounting of everything.

By 10 p.m. the last few orders are leaving the kitchen. Only two returns tonight for re-fires, and almost 200 served. It was a good night. Lots of high fives to go around, then the last charge of adrenaline to get through cleaning, station breakdown, labeling and dating, filling out prep lists for tomorrow, and chilling down sauces. The chef strains the veal stock that has been simmering since late morning, and immerses the 5-gallon pot in an ice bath. He pulls everyone together for a 10-minute review and recognition for a job well done.

The cooks leave by 11:15 and head for the local bar for an after shift drink or two as the chef inspects the kitchen, shuts down the hood fan, and turns off the lights. The kitchen will go to sleep now – at least for a few hours. The baker arrives at 4 a.m. and prep cooks by around 7. Then it starts all over again. It takes cooks a few hours to bring themselves down from the adrenaline rush – a feeling that they both look forward to and dread at the same time.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER
Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

LINE COOKS ARE THE STUDIO MUSICIANS OF THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS

02 Wednesday Oct 2019

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chefs, cooks, line cooks, line cooks and musicians, restaurant work

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When we listen to a catchy song by Steely Dan we think of Walter Becker and Donald Fagen – the founding members of this iconic group. Yet, Bernard Purdie probably played that laid-back rhythm that defines their songs on drums. Purdie, a studio musician, was responsible for the Purdie shuffle that made hits of dozens of songs by well-known groups over the years. Or maybe you were entranced by the tight guitar riffs on albums like Countdown to Ecstasy or The Royal Scam. There is a good chance that they came from the guitar of Jeff “Skunk” Baxter who sat in with a handful of bands in the 70’s and 80’s. That driving drum phrasing on Steve Miller Band albums like Fly Like and Eagle, and the brush work on Van Morrison’s Moondance – was from Gary Mallaber who toured with these groups, and others for a time, but made a career as a studio – sit in. Billy Preston played keyboards for the Stones and the Beatles, Tower of Power horn section was behind many of the iconic songs by the Band, and Nicki Hopkins was every bands keyboardist of choice for a few decades. All of these incredible musicians were not in the limelight – they rarely took bows on the stage, and only received cursory recognition on the albums that they helped to define – yet, their role in creating lasting songs is unquestionable.

Now think about the role of these studio talents and apply the concept to successful restaurants. It is the chef, after all, who makes the newspapers and magazines, receives the applause from happy customers in the dining room, is respected and feared by all who knock on the kitchen door to make a sale, and is given credit for the restaurants success by managers and owners. Yet, on any given night, it is the cadre of line cooks (the restaurant industry’s version of studio musicians) who cook those meals, adjust the seasoning, and paint beautiful pictures of enticing food on Italian bone china plates.

The chef may write the songs, or design the menus, but it is the line cook who makes it happen, who pulls together the chef’s thoughts and executes a dish in a consistent manner, hundreds of times each week. The chef may step in now and again, probably expedite the flow of preparation and service, adjust plates and add a garnish, and certainly work to make sure everything is in place for the cooks to succeed, but it is the line cook’s steady hand, clear mind, fine tuned technique, and well-educated palate that brings everything to fruition.

Talk with the members of a successful band and they will point to the chemistry among their members as the most critical part of success. When this chemistry exists, then there is interplay, symmetry, creativity, discipline, and a common voice. We have all witnessed the magic that happens when a band is in the zone. The exact same thing happens in a restaurant when those line cook studio musicians, who have exceptional skills and timing, connect with everyone else on the line. A line comprised of those extraordinary technicians and artists who do not typically live in the lime light, will consistently impress and inspire all who witness their magic.

Some restaurant chefs make the connection and realize early on that their success is tied directly to the unified approach of those talented line cook studio musicians. When they are brought to the range and orchestrated properly then a restaurant will earn the accolades that are sure to come.

The Similarities Continue:

[] Studio Musicians are highly competent technicians who understand the foundations of organized music and can apply technique in a masterful, consistent manner. Competent line cooks are highly competent technicians who understand the foundations of organized cooking and can apply technique in a masterful, consistent manner.

[] Studio Musicians understand the importance of timing to the integrity of quality music delivery. Competent line cooks understand the importance of timing to the integrity of quality food delivery.

[] Studio Musicians are able to play a variety of musical styles, and do it very well since they never know what artist they are going to work with next. Competent line cooks are able to work with a variety of cooking styles and cuisines, and do it very well since they never know what chef they are going to work for next.

[] Studio Musicians are extremely well organized and know that every tool they use has a place and must be in its place for seamlessly great music to result. Just look at how a drummer sets up his or her kit or a keyboardist arranges the various pieces of equipment to be used in a performance. Competent line cooks are extremely well organized (mise en place) and know that every tool they use has a place and must be in its place for seamlessly great food to result.

[] Studio Musicians understand what is behind the music – the cultural influences, the feelings of the writer, the environmental conditions that were present when the music was first played, and the anticipation of the listener. It is this understanding that allows the musician to feel the music and portray it as it was intended. Competent line cooks understand what is behind the food – the care that the farmer places in growing ingredients, the feelings of the menu planner, the environmental conditions and ethnic influences that fed the original preparation of a dish, and the anticipation of the diner. It is this understanding that allows the cook to feel the preparation and portray a dish as it was intended.

[] Studio Musicians know their place and can tow the line when it comes to following the directives of the songwriter or prominent musician in a group, but have the ability to add their unique signature to any piece of music if the opportunity arises. This is one of the primary reasons why bands in the 1960’s and 70’s hired Nicki Hopkins to play keyboards on their records. He could fill the subservient role, but just as easily take on a lead part in defining a piece of music. Competent line cooks know their place and can tow the line when it comes to following the directives of the chef, but have the ability to add their unique signature to any dish if the opportunity arises.

Show appreciation for the skill, confidence, and chemistry that line cooks provide. It is their ability to “sit in” that helps a restaurant cross the bridge from good to great. A chef is only as good as the team of studio musician line cooks that stand firmly behind him or her and perform exceptionally well, day in, and day out.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

BODY, MIND AND SOUL – COOKS ARE IN IT TO WIN IT

23 Friday Aug 2019

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chefs, Cooking from the heart, cooks, creativity, culinary, improvisation, line cooks, Miles Davis, Soul cooking

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It was 1959 when the late great Miles Davis released “Kind of Blue” one of the great jazz albums of all time. Over his creative career – many of the most accomplished musicians of a generation got their start or at least their inspiration from playing with or listening to Miles – he was, to many, a genius.

The greats and soon to be greats were attracted to Miles and built their careers around playing with this creative genius. Herbie Hancock, John McLaughlin, Ron Cater, Wayne Shorter, Chick Corea, and Joe Zawinul of Weather Report all had their start playing with Miles. Hundreds of others including Carlos Santana, Prince, John Legend, John Mayer, and Jimi Hendrix reflected on how Miles Davis influenced their own creativity and style. He was their Yoda.

“I’m always thinking about creating. My future starts when I wake up every morning…every day I find something to do with my life.”

-Miles David

Miles was fully engaged with his body, mind and soul and as a result – his music was an extension of the person that he was. The very best cooks are Miles Davis protégés, even if they are unfamiliar with his music. It is the creative energy of body, mind and soul that is at the center of great cooking whether you are a line cook, prep cook, or chef.

Our industry has it’s own Miles Davis Pied Pipers: Thomas Keller, Alice Waters, Joel Robuchon, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud, David Chang, Grant Achatz, Dominique Crenn, Stephanie Izard, and hundreds of other talented chefs are driven individuals who attract others – drawing energy from their body, mind and soul. Serious cooks are in constant search of, and in real need of that something that separates cooks from great cooks. Nobody knows what that something is until they become part of it.

“Anybody can play. The note is only 20 percent. The attitude of the musicians who plays it is 80 percent.”

-Miles Davis

To paraphrase Davis: “Anybody can cook. The recipe is only 20 percent. The attitude of the person who cooks is 80 percent.”

Miles would have understood and appreciated the regimented exactness of Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud because even with his improvisational style there was a foundation of discipline. He might not have understood the free form nature of Grant Achatz and Dominique Crenn, but their beautiful creative thought would have inspired him. He would have responded with enthusiasm to the seemingly loose style of David Chang because it is cooking that comes from the soul. Miles was the perfect example of ambassador for body, mind and soul.

tony and I

Serious cooks are truly connected with their craft, the tools that allow their application, and the food that they have an opportunity to interpret. Like Miles, they thrive on the creative connection to body, mind and soul that cooking provides. They have little patience with those who fail to see how important their work is and with those who simply view the job of cook as a process and a means to an end resulting in a paycheck for hours worked. They don’t understand and certainly don’t appreciate those who demean the profession and the privilege of being a cook just as I am sure Miles Davis would have little patience for those who simply read the notes on a page and play without a connection to body, mind, and soul.

So, here is a primer on being a chef with that connection to body, mind and soul:

[] BODY

Cooking is such a physical endeavor. There certainly are many other physical careers, but few that use the body in such an all-inclusive manner. The cook who is in tune – is in tune with every ounce of physical interaction in the kitchen environment and with the food and he or she touches. The finger tips can distinguish rare from medium, the hands control the flip of vegetables in a pan; the legs, feet and back are in constant motion as a cook bends, turns and lifts throughout a 10-12 hour shift; and the tinge of heat on the brow, arms and face is intense and ever-present. A cook is “all in” physically and as such – totally in touch with his or her environment.

[] MIND

The nerve ends in a cook’s brain are firing in rapid succession. The charged directives from the expeditor: “ordering…fire…pick-up…in the pass…” represent a cadence, a beat – similar to the pace orchestrated by Miles Davis as he led his musicians through a difficult arrangement. The cook’s brain is busy categorizing orders and their timing, referencing the sub-conscious database of cooking steps, and activating his or her flavor memory through the process of taste, season, taste. The eyes are ever focused on scanning the signs of cooking (caramelization, reduction, grill marks), the status of fellow line cooks, the details of an order, and the condition of station mise en place. All of these images are sent to the brain for analysis and action every nano-second. When the mind is alert and fully engaged then the magic of a functional kitchen appears to be beautiful and as smooth as a piece of improvisational music – organization out of impending chaos.

Painted in Waterlogue

[] SOUL

Miles felt his music – he felt it deeply – much deeper that physically and mentally – he felt it in his soul, his essence, his reason for being.

“Music is an essential part of human existence. Listening to music leaves a major impact on each one of us. It can boost your mood, reduce stress and improve your health and overall wellbeing.”

-Norbert Juma

The same can be said of passionately prepared food. “Food is an essential part of human existence. Enjoying food leaves a major impact on each of us. It can boost your mood, reduce stress and improve your health and wellbeing.”

Those who play passionate music are feeding your soul and expressing theirs, just as those who cook passionately feed your soul and express theirs. There are so many parallels.

Miles music was a reflection of who he was, what he was feeling, and how he was connecting with people and the environment around him. Whether it was his instrument, the superbly talented musicians who surrounded him, or the audience mesmerized by his creativity – what occurred was a soul connection. In a kitchen filled with talented cooks who feel the power of what they do, have the skills that define great cooking, and are connected with fellow cooks, and the charged environment of the kitchen – the result will always be soulful food. Thomas Keller’s perfectly executed French cuisine is soulful, Dominque Crenn’s uniquely creative interpretations and controlled improvisations are soulful, and David Chang’s representation of culturally influenced flavors is deeply soulful.

When cooks prepare food with soul it is because they understand the ingredients, they are in tune with the history of the culture behind a dish, they appreciate the farmer, the fisherman, and the rancher who brought the ingredients to his back door, and they respect the process of cooking – moving those special ingredients from their natural state to a plate in the pass. Soulful food is not a given – it comes from dedication and passionate connections.

“I believe, from reading biographies, that the great musicians have also been great cooks: Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Thelonious Monk, Max Roach. I think I’ve worked out why this is – unsociable hours, plus general creativity.”

-Jamie Cullum

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Be a Cook Connected with Body, Mind and Soul

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericaventures.com

www.harvestamericacues.com BLOG

WALK A MILE IN A RESTAURANT WORKER’S SHOES – PART ONE

05 Friday Jul 2019

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dishwashers, kitchen unsung heros, kitchens, line cooks, prep cooks, restaurant work

rest 2

Sure – every person’s job can be challenging at times and the good, the bad, and the ugly is a fair way to describe nearly every career choice, but looking in from the outside rarely gives and outsider a realistic view of another person’s challenges. As a whole – restaurant work is difficult. At times restaurant work can be discouraging and heartbreaking, while other times many would agree that it’s the best job on the planet.

It is unfortunate that some people who lack an understanding of “what it takes” may view what we do with a shrug of the shoulders and even a demeaning thought, but it is even more disheartening when those who work in the field cast a word or thought of distain or even contempt for others who share similar space within the restaurants walls. Thus, I feel that it is important to paint a more accurate picture of each person’s job, the skills required, and the challenges faced.

PART ONE:
LINE COOKS, PREP COOKS, AND PEARL DIVERS:

The kitchen hierarchy was established long ago based on the military model of rank and responsibility. The lower the rank, the lower the level of respect. A private is an entry-level person who gets his or her feet wet by doing the tasks that no one else cares to do. In the chain of command, the private is looked upon as a lower skilled individual who is an easy target for anyone with even the smallest amount of additional seniority or rank. This is the space occupied by the dishwasher in most kitchens, making he or she the brunt of nearly everyone’s poor attitudes and lack of respect. Yet, isn’t it interesting that when a dishwasher fails to show up for work – the kitchen seems to be in disarray? Here are some “walk in my shoes” reflections from a typical dishwasher:

second cook

“My job is a dirty, thankless one that places me on the bottom of the restaurant pecking order. Everyone thinks they can do my job better than I can; yet no one really wants to take it on. I work in an environment that is just as hot as working on the line with the addition of serious humidity. I work in everyone’s dumping ground and all of that talk about mise en place seems to not apply when they avoid scraping or properly stacking pots, pans and dishes. Line cooks may help each other out, but they rarely grab a stack of clean plates and move them to their home.

The incredible camaraderie of the kitchen ends when it comes to the dishpit. You never see the dishwasher invited to grab a beer after work with the team. In fact, I can usually walk into work and never hear a hello or receive a high five for a job well done. Most will never view my job as important to the guest dining experience, but try serving your beautiful food on a plate that doesn’t sparkle, or pouring that $100 bottle of wine in a glass with water spots. There isn’t (or least it doesn’t feel that way) any real respect for what I do and yet you scratch your head and wonder why there is so much turnover in the dish area of a kitchen. Keep in mind – given the opportunity, most dishwashers would enjoy learning something about food, moving into prep some day, or even building the skills necessary to work the line at breakfast or lunch and beyond. Dishwashers are your next generation of cooks waiting to be trained. Oh, and by the way – we are responsible for one of the most expensive pieces of equipment in the kitchen and one of the most valuable inventories (china, glasses, flatware).”

PREP COOKS:

Prep cooks, for some reason, lack the sparkle of admiration for their work – yet, in many cases they are involved in more serious cooking than the most proficient line cook. The breadth of knowledge required to be an exceptional prep cook is nearly as expansive as that of the sous chef or chef. Prep cooks are the ones who make it possible for line cooks to shine, and as such, should be revered by the line as their best support team. Yet, far too many restaurants fail to give real credit to the prep cook and his or her skill set. Her are some “walk in my shoes” reflections from a typical prep cook:

Kris

“I show up to work each day – maybe sometime close to the arrival of the breakfast cook. I pull down my prep list clipboard and shake my head at the breadth of work, and mind-numbing quantity of mise en place. I set-up my cutting board, prepare a sani-bucket for cleaning, sharpen my knives and get to work. Sometimes I even impress myself with the knife skills that I have mastered. I challenge any line cook to beat my accuracy and speed. I look at the list and prioritize my work based on the effort and time required of each task. Browning bones and caramelizing mirepoix for stock (need to start this early on), trimming shanks and short ribs, and searing and starting the braise that will take most of the day to prepare; cutting, portioning, and trimming steaks for the line; fabricating whole fish for fillets and saving the bones from whitefish for a fumet; preparing tonight’s soup du jour, and making numerous salad dressings; trimming and blanching vegetables; turning potatoes; preparing prime ribs for roasting; making popovers and au jus for accompaniments; peeling and deveining shrimp; pushing pommes frites through the grid; and clarifying butter for the sauté cook – oh, and receiving deliveries, rotating stock, dating and labeling everything, and checking orders for quality and quantity. This is my typical day.

LINE COOK:

As a line cook you receive much of the glory – yours is the position that everyone loves to watch. You swagger in at 2:00 for your intense display of symmetry and grace, but it is my work that makes your moment of glory possible. How often do you take the time to thank us, give a thumb’s up, reflect on the skills that prep cooks have, and marvel at how much we get done? How often do you simply complain that it wasn’t enough, or you could have done it better? You probably could do our job, but it would mean that your adrenaline rush would be put aside, your swagger would be diminished, and your self-described status in the kitchen might suffer. I respect your organization, speed, fine-tuned palate, and artistic plate presentations, but know that without us, you would never shine as bright.”

cooks

Early in the afternoon, line cooks arrive. These are the visual rock stars of the kitchen – the cooks who have the opportunity to finish menu items, show their artistic skills with beautiful plate presentations, and fine tune seasoning to meet the expectations of the chef. They often times have better tools than anyone else, talk the language of the kitchen, and enjoy the dynamic of teamwork leading to victory every night. Sounds like a great gig – but what you see is not always rosy.

“Why does every guest think that the chef does the cooking? Customers are in awe of the chef in his or her pristine whites walk through the dining room, talk with tables about the menu, and offer a suggestion for a complementary wine or a great dessert. For some reason, they envision this same person putting together each plate for a bustling dining room. Hey, I’m the one who executes the chef’s ideas, I’m the one with the fine tuned palate that knows how to bring out flavor, and I’m the one who put that work on art on the plate. The chef might wipe the rim of the plate and add a fresh herb as it leaves the kitchen – but, in reality, it’s all me.

Things may seem calm in the dining room, but in the kitchen we work in a pressure cooker of time, heat, cadence, flames, sharp objects and a fragile symmetry that could go off track at any moment. The sound that the POS printer makes is like water torture with each drip driving deeper into our skull. No one else in the kitchen feels the looming fear of the unknown (which station will get pounded tonight, when will the dining room fill up and flood us with orders, how long will my mise en place last, how many orders can I keep organized before I lose it?). If something goes wrong – we get the blame – not the prep cooks, not the servers, sometimes not even the chef. All fingers point to us. Have you ever lost control of your situation – you know, that point when you become the deer in the headlights without any clear idea of where you are and what you are doing? Well, I have felt that way many times and it’s not a comfortable place to be. When it works, the job is invigorating, exciting, dynamic, and fun. When it goes sideways, this is a soul-crushing job. Walk in my shoes.”

You bet – your job is challenging and I certainly would admit that I could not do what you do, at least not at the same level, but before you point fingers and chastise my role in the dining experience – walk a mile in my shoes.

The next article will focus on service staff and restaurant management – walk a mile in their shoes.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

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A LINE COOK’S VIEW OF SUMMER MONTHS

11 Saturday May 2019

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cochon

It’s pushing 10 a.m. when an evening line cook finally rolls out of bed. The July sun is starting to really show its ability to bear down with penetrating heat and the humidity is bringing those first beads of sweat to the cook’s forehead. Ah…the start of another summer day. The primary role of the morning shower is to cool off and by the time a cook pulls up on both hounds tooth pant legs that sweat has already returned.

The walk to work is filled with angst about the job ahead, mise en place yet to be built, the unknown number of reservations for tonight’s service, and most importantly the heat and humidity of the kitchen.

As much as every cook would enjoy the ability to take part in what summer means to so many others, to the cook it is all about pale skin that rarely sees the sun as a vehicle for those deep bronze or brown tans. Too much sun for may cooks means the lobster red color of a burn. Walking into the kitchen is like moving from the frying pan to the oven. The curtain of heat hits every cook as an awakening for even more intensity to come.

One would think that water would be the most important beverage in the kitchen, but to a line cook it is likely to be hot coffee. Coffee seems to equalize the personal inner and outer heat that is so prevalent in the kitchen for the duration of the 12- hour shift ahead.

Soon the cook is into a rhythm. Knives cut through everything in their way, and the staccato of chopping and dicing sounds on cutting boards become the beat of the kitchen as the team pulls together their mise. By now the flat top, chargrill and ovens are fired up to max and add rawness to the temperature in the stainless steel jungle. Once the dish machine kicks into play there will be the added intensity of humidity that soaks through uniforms, drips from the rim of kitchen hats and blurs the cooks eyes. Even the cook’s socks are wet from sweat.

The day is young and the looming anticipation of a busy night is starting to creep into everyone’s psyche. “Which station will be the most painful tonight? Who will feel the weight of an impossible number of orders? Will every cook be ready physically, mentally, and emotionally? The heat is ever-present and makes it ever more difficult to stay on task and put aside the lack of comfort. The kitchen could be a steel plant at this point – physical work in front of blast furnaces – pretty much the same as a kitchen – this is the closest thing to Dante’s Inferno that you will ever find.

Five o’clock hits soft with just a few early bird tickets coming off the printer. This is a good way to build up the energy and adrenaline levels in preparation for the first real push. Sweat is starting to roll down the cooks back, and every line cook’s skin feels like it is alive and able to detect every nuance of pain, heat, and that rush of hot adrenaline that is beginning to course through his or her system. Five-thirty: the pace is starting to pick up, a few more senior citizen deuces and the dining room is now a third full. The board shows a dozen tickets – somewhere around 30 people. This is still child’s play, but even at this pace the sauté station is filled with waiting pans and a significant number of steaks are being marked on the grill. Six fifteen and the first push has begun. The dining room is full and more waiting for the early birds to finish their coffee and open up another ten tables. All hell is about to break loose. Instead of the usual early deuces, the dining room is filling up with four tops and even a large table of ten off to the back. The bar is full with guests waiting for the next push that will happen around 7:45.

Back in the kitchen the heat has been turned up. Every sauté pan is either in use or being washed in ready for the next dish. The grill is filled with steaks and chops and the flames from the broiler are mixing with the fat drippings from meat creating four to six inches flames to leap out at the line cook in search of that last bit of hair on his arms. Some of the line cooks have complemented their skullcaps with bandanas to keep the sweat at bay. Everyone has been passing around the cornstarch to fight off chafe and shirts are now glued to everyone’s torso thanks to the rivers of back sweat that never seem to cease. There are a few hand burns to work through, some splattered hot oil from the deep fryers, and an occasional super hot pan handle that managed to find that part of a cook’s palm that wasn’t quite covered by a dry towel.

The grill guy nicked the top of his index finger with a super sharp Japanese carving knife – no time to worry about the throbbing pain – wash it, slap on some disinfectant, bandage the cut and throw on another latex glove. Maybe a stitch or cauterization is called for, but that can wait until later, or maybe never.

The expeditor is doing what he can to keep the line calm and flowing smoothly. Serving as liaison between front and back of the house – this kitchen expeditor is the peacekeeper, and grand communicator. He watches the eyes of each line cook, seeking out any sign of that “deer in the headlights look” that always precedes a meltdown. Caught early enough, a good expo can talk a cook down and bring him or her back into focus.

7:15: the calm before the storm. Suddenly everything seems all too quiet. Almost all of the tables have been served and thirty people are just finishing their coffee and waiting for credit cards to return. Once they leave, those tables will fill immediately and the push starts all over again. These are the serious diners – the ones with the highest expectations, the greatest demands, and the palates that warrant the full nine yards – appetizers, salads, entrees, dessert and lots of decent wine. There may only be another 30 or 40 guests sitting for this push, but it could result in well over 100 different plates of food. The team is seasoned now – they take this lull in the storm time to replenish depleted mise en place, tidy up stations, hydrate, and catch their breath. They look like a second line on a hockey team waiting for the coach to send them in the game. They bounce on their toes, stretch, bend their knees, click their tongs in anticipation, and wait for the printer to start ticking off another stream of orders. When it hits, it hits hard and everyone takes a breath and kicks it up a notch – this is the last real push for the night – bring it on.

By 9:30 it’s pretty much over. There are a few late night tables, mainly deuces looking for that romantic dinner, but for the most part it’s time to start consolidating and cleaning. It’s time to try and push the adrenaline down and bring your pulse back under 120. By the time it’s over, a typical line cook may have lost a couple pounds in sweat. Don’t worry though, they will add it back on in calories from after work beer, and maybe a greasy burger from Shake Shack or Five Guys.

The sun is down, but the humidity remains. The cool breeze from summer sunsets now tempers that kitchen sweat. Cook’s throw some water on their faces, finish cleaning up, change into street clothes, roll on some deodorant and drag a comb through their thinning hair. Time to unwind with friends – who by the way are the people you work with. Tomorrow is another day, but the night is still young. Cook’s will wake up again with a bit of a hangover, sore muscles, aching feet, those cuts and burns that were never properly attended to, and that skin color that never seems to deepen from the sun. Tomorrow will come quick enough.

The life of a line cook in the summer months: not their favorite season.

Stay cool.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER AND HYDRATE

HARVEST AMERICA VENTURES, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

WHEN LINE COOKS ARE IN THE ZONE

15 Thursday Nov 2018

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Painted in Waterlogue

On November 16, 1962 Wilt Chamberlain – center for the Warriors, scored 73 points against the New York Knicks and 78 points in 1961 against the Lakers. But, it was the Warriors game against the Knicks earlier in 1962 that stands out above all others. Chamberlain scored 100 individual points cementing a win – he was in the zone. Tiger Woods was able to turn off the distractions that surrounded him on numerous occasions during his prime and make drives, chip shots, and putts that made everyone else scratch their heads – he was able to place himself in the zone at will.

Actors become one with the person or situation they are presented with and as such are able to push aside their own reality and assume the character of another. Writers occasionally find that the ideas and words are effortless and musicians frequently play with a dynamic that seems otherworldly. In a critical playoff game during the early 1990’s, the Buffalo Bills were behind by 30 some odd points at halftime. They returned to the field “on fire” where everything went right and it seemed that nothing could go wrong. They won the game and went down in the records as the greatest comeback of all time. Tom Brady has demonstrated time and again that he can turn on a supernatural performance almost at any point. Teams know that a lead is never secure if Brady has even a few minutes left to pull out a win. In all cases these individuals and teams were truly in the zone.

So what does this mean and how does it happen. Psychologists have referred to this as the “optimal performance state” – a time and place where individuals or even teams are totally immersed in a performance, totally in control, focused and confident, and able to even lose awareness of time in the process. Their mental and physical being is in total sync.

When we watch these occurrences we are likely taken aback, wondering what might be going on, scratching our heads in total awe of the situation at hand. It is hard to fathom, difficult to explain, but crazy fun to watch.

Those of us who have been part of the pleasure and pain of working the line in a busy restaurant, or one of those impossible large catered events of a few thousand guests know that these miraculous “zone” events can and do take place. Those times when orders are flying off the printer at breakneck speed, the expeditor is barking out orders in rapid succession, pans are flying on and off the flat top, steaks and the flames they create are lapping around the arms of a grill cook, and a seamless progression of finished plates are slid on to the pass while rims are wiped clean and servers arrive at just the right moment. Everyone is in sync, the work seems effortless, and line cooks are laser focused on what is right in from of them.

From the moment that the rush begins until a few hours of relentless cooking and plating occur and end, the cooks and servers are 100 percent with it – confident, skilled, and in control. We have all been there, we have all felt the adrenaline rush, and we have all ended those few hours of synchronicity wondering where the time went. Everything seemed to happen in a flash.

Like any athlete who has been in the zone we have also felt the endorphins that push our hearts to beat faster, allow our vision to be acutely focused, calm our nerves, provide that necessary rush of energy, and give us the chance to push everything else out of our mind and vision so that we can perform at a level that didn’t seem possible a few hours before. We have also known how hard it is to turn that energy level off at the end of service and even more difficult to try and recreate that zone performance the next day.

So, are these events simply an anomaly or can we set the stage for zone performance on a more regular basis? Although the planets may not always align (pace of orders, specific foods ordered, everyone in the right state of mind), there are some key elements that can set the stage for otherworldly performance. Successful athletes, talented musicians, accomplished writers, and excellent cooks and chefs share in the same preparation techniques:

[] SKILL DEVELOPMENT THROUGH PRACTICE:

Michael Jordan shot 100 free throws just before every game, Tiger Woods played at least 18 holes of golf almost every day, Tom Brady is meticulous at studying film from other teams and other games, James Patterson writes constantly, and great cooks are always working on improving their skills through practice and repetition. The confidence that you can do the impossible comes from skill competence and practice.

[] HONEST SELF-CRITIQUE:

The most important critique that exceptional players and cooks receive is the one that they generate themselves. BE YOUR OWN WORST CRITIC! Athletes review film of their previous performance so that they can improve, even if just a little bit, every time they hit the field, the course, or the court. Artists look critically at their own work so that the next painting, piece of music, or article is a step ahead. Take those few minutes at the end of each service in the kitchen to jot down the things that could have gone better and how you intend to improve upon them tomorrow.

[] PHYSICAL CONDITIONING:

Cooking is a physical, emotional, and mental contact sport. We are no different than a professional athlete who understands that in order to perform at peak level, he or she must stay in great physical shape. Eat right, exercise, get enough sleep, and visit your doctor even when you don’t think it is necessary. When you take care of yourself you feel better. When you feel better you perform better.

[] MENTAL CONDITIONING:

Do things to exercise your brain – to teach your brain to push aside distractions and stay focused. Read, spend time in the woods, go for hikes, ride a bike, or simply add a mile walk to your daily routine. If you can’t push aside those things around you – performance will be challenging.

[] AWARENESS:

Play some “what if” scenarios through your head. What could go wrong if this or that occurs? Watch those workers who surround you and become aware of their own state of mind, and how well they have prepared for service. Have some solutions to inevitable problems that might arise – don’t be caught off guard – have your backup plans.

[] UNDERSTANDING THE IMPORTANCE OF TEAM:

As much as being in the zone is an individual phenomena, chances are less likely that it will occur without the help of others. Everything is important, everyone is important. There is little doubt that a football team can’t win without a zoned in game plan. Tiger Woods may seem to be totally in control, but he depends significantly on his caddy for guidance. Michael Jordan always depended on a team members screen, a great pass from Scotty Pippen, or the opportunity to pass himself to Steve Kerr. Being in the zone is a team effort.

[] MISE EN PLACE:

Every cook understands that everything else may be critical, but unless you are prepped for crazy business, you will always fall short. Cooks also realize that if your mise en place is really tight you can handle just about any amount of business. This can never be over-emphasized.

[] CONFIDENCE AND PATIENCE:

When a quarterback feels that he can pull the game out at the last minute then the rest of the team feels confident in the same. When a musician feels that as the band works through those opening songs then the energy of the concert will lead them to a memorable performance. If confidence is lost, if doom and gloom sets in because the clock is ticking, then goals will never be achieved.

BEING IN THE ZONE:

“It was almost as if we were playing in slow motion. During those spells I could almost sense how the next play would develop and where the next shot would be taken.”

-Bill Russell – the Boston Celtics

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

THE LINE COOK COUNTERCULTURE

28 Sunday Oct 2018

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From that first job as a dishwasher in 1966 when I was 16 years old – I knew I was part of something interesting. Who knows what struck a chord – it might have been the pace, the banter between employees, the time spent helping out the breakfast cook during a rush, or even the young college girls who worked as servers – but there was something that made me think that this was work that I was going to enjoy. Working in restaurants remained a part of my life for the next fifty years, but initially it never occurred to me that the job, as enjoyable as it was, was part of anything larger than my interaction with the people where I happened to tie on an apron.

Somewhere along the way this changed. There must have been a moment when I realized that I was a part of the population who knew the positive and negative aspects of kitchen work and who felt compelled to stand tall and proclaim their connection to all whom would listen. The job became a career, and with that career came a connection to a somewhat underground population of folks who worked through the heat, the burns, the cuts, the heavy knees and swollen feet, the abusive nature of some egotistical chefs and owners, people who felt the stress associated with the unpredictable onslaught of orders every day, and that feeling of winning and losing that accompanied a typical week behind the range. I never stopped to think about it, but I had joined a special club – maybe more than a club – this was as significant as ethnicity – a family that went beyond the place where I worked – it extended to anyone and everyone who worked in nearly any type of restaurant. We were one.

I’m not sure exactly when it went to the next level – maybe it was Anthony Bourdain with his tell-all book: “Kitchen Confidential”, or maybe that was just the most vivid example. At some point working in a kitchen was an application to a counter-culture, not too dissimilar to that counter-culture of people in the 1960’s who separated themselves from the norm, felt compelled to express themselves in dramatic ways, and who knew they were part of something bigger than one – they were a movement.

Cooks and other restaurant employees are different. They look, act, feel, and talk differently than many other groups in society, and they are proud of it. They are unified in their difference, they tend to look at the unrealistic demands on their time, the physical nature of the work, and the strain on emotions as martyrdom – something that they hold as a badge of courage even though they might complain about how it impacts their lives.

Here are some aspects of this counterculture that cooks now own, relish, and love to hate all at the same time:

[] SELF-EXPRESSION:

There are many ways that line cooks tend to express themselves today. Some are subtle while others are straightforward. It is hard to find a cook today without multiple tattoos. These are, from my experience, forms of self-expression and in most cases the choice of tattoo tells a story about the cook. It might be detailed ink depicting knives and other tools of the trade, specific ingredients, depictions of demon dreams, or not so subtle logos of brands. In all cases, it seems like the tattoo is part of the modern kitchen culture. Aside from the physical appointments – each line cook worth a grain of salt is expressive on the plate or in the pan. Sometimes it is a signature marking on a steak, the way that their station is set, the motions of a pan in sauté mode, or how a plate is assembled – each cook thrives on finding a way to make their personal statement.

[] A SOMEWHAT UN-NATURAL LINK TO THE BRAND OF “COOK”:

Most line cooks and chefs identify with the title almost as much as to their own name. I haven’t physically worked in a kitchen since 2012, yet most people I know (even some of my family members) call me “chef”; for some reason I haven’t tried to convince people otherwise. The same is true with all who take their role in the kitchen seriously – we all like the brand – it has meaning, it exudes pride, and helps to explain some of our quirky actions and habits.

[] THE BROTHERHOOD/SISTERHOOD OF THE KITCHEN:

There is a real connection between all cooks, a connection that extends to anyone, anywhere who shares the battle scars and stories of fire, sweat, and nights when demand exceeded capacity.

[] RESPECT THROUGH PAIN:

I have mentioned this before and still I find it hard to explain, but those cuts, burns, swollen feet, and beginning stages of carpel tunnel syndrome are looked upon as a right of passage, battle scars that come with a story, things that are almost bragged about. We all have them, we all talk about them, and most of us tend to exaggerate the stories behind them. Many cooks, like me, had a special relationship with doctors and nurses in the local emergency room.

[] CONFUSION OVER “NORMAL” JOBS:

After years of working 60 or more hours per week, going sometimes weeks on end without a full day off, watching schedules change multiple times in a week, and missing out on those family holidays and special events – cooks tend to scratch their heads when trying to relate to people with “normal” jobs. The thought of working 40-hour weeks with two days off is often referred to by cooks as a part-time job.

[] ADDICTED TO ADRENALINE:

It’s all about the rush. As hard as it is to work in a busy restaurant, as nervous as every cook tends to get just before the floodgate of orders start ticking off the POS printer, and as much as self-doubt creeps into their lives with a disappointed look from the chef – when the machine starts to flip into full-gear, and that adrenaline kicks in, every cook stands tall, clicks his or her tongs, wipes his or her brow, chugs another espresso and proclaims: “bring it on”. This is what we wait for – that adrenaline rush of excitement and call to arms.

[] THE UNDERGROUND LIFE CLOCK:

Maybe more than anything else – cooks live in a world that is separate from most others outside of kitchen work. They sleep later (unless a breakfast cook), and then crawl out of bed for a waiting cup or two of coffee, shower and bound off to work. They typically work 10-12 hours a day, more often than not – 6-days per week, and find that after that peak hour adrenaline rush and continued work until closing – there is never a desire to simply call it a night. A few hours of celebration after work with fellow cooks and servers brings them to their bed well past most reasonable persons threshold. After a late night with little sleep it’s time to start all over again. The life clock of a cook is socially isolating – thus they work and hang with the same people, the only ones that there is time to meet, and the only other people they understand.

[] A MUTUAL RESPECT FOR ORDER:

Cooks learn early on that order (mise en place) is the most sacred of processes and must become the standard by which they approach everything in life. Without order there is chaos, and chaos is the ruin of any good cook. Just watch with fascination how a cook sets up his or her station – the preciseness, the symmetry, and the attention to detail.

[] A MILITARY LIKE RESPECT FOR THE CHAIN OF COMMAND:

Cooks may complain on occasion about the chef and his or her relentless level of expectation and sometimes unreasonable attacks on anything that doesn’t fit into the plan – but, they respect the chain of command, they respond with a resounding “yes chef”, and know that to entertain any other approach will lead to kitchen disasters.

[] INNATE ARTISITIC TALENT:

All cooks are frustrated artists who are always seeking ways of expression and subtle moments of approval for their work. The plate is their canvas.

[] STAGE PRESENCE – STAGE FRIGHT:

When set – the line cook is in character. He or she is ready to perform and in full control of their script. At the same time, just like actors in a play, those last few moments before the printer starts to tick off orders is filled with self-doubt, anxiousness, and near fear of what might lie ahead.

[] A RATHER STRANGE LOVE OF THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE:

This is something that outsiders learn very quickly – a cook’s knives are the most sacred possession to them. They treat them with respect, care for them, keep them sharp and ready, gingerly place them in their roll bag, and always keep them close to their side. Anyone who makes even the slightest attempt to touch them without permission or use them inappropriately will witness the wrath of the cook.

[] A CRUSTY EXTERIOR WITH A FRAGILE INTERIOR:

Every cook has a crusty exterior persona. Sometimes they bark with contempt when someone messes with their system, and oftentimes he or she expresses himself or herself with colorful language in the process. Those who know these cooks usually realizes that this is a façade and underneath the cook is a warm, and oftentimes fragile being looking for approval and harder on themselves than any outsider might attempt to be.

This is who cooks are– unique persons who are members of the kitchen counterculture that only they can truly understand and appreciate.

“Our confused society badly needs a community of contrast, a counterculture of ordinary pilgrims who insist living a different way. Unlike popular culture, we will lavish attention on the least deserving in direct opposition to our celebrity culture’s emphasis on success, wealth, and beauty.”

-Phillip Yancey

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Respect the Counterculture

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

www.harvestamericaventures.com

DAY ONE IN THE KITCHEN – WHAT TO EXPECT

13 Wednesday Jun 2018

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line cooks

Starting a new job is always un-nerving – even more so in a kitchen where production is expected, even on day one. Whether you are totally green and walking into a kitchen environment for the first time, transitioning from culinary school to a live kitchen environment, or simply moving as a cook from one restaurant to another – the first few days can be tough. How do we prepare for these challenging few days of acclimation?

Here are some suggestions that are universally important whether you are starting in a diner, family restaurant, fast food operation or fine dining establishment.

[] GET THE LAY OF THE LAND

It is your responsibility as a cook to find our where and how items are stored, how the equipment works, who to go to for specific needs, how needs are relayed to the person responsible, and the general system of operation that a kitchen relies on day in and day out. This doesn’t mean that you can’t ask questions, but your learning curve should be quick. After a day or two the last thing in the world you should do is ask the sous chef or chef where they store the butter or fresh herbs.

[] UNNECESSARY QUESTIONS ARE NOT WELCOME

There is a commonly used adage that “no question is a dumb question”. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Any question that could be figured out independently by the person asking, any question that contains the obvious answer in its context, and any question that has already been answered before is a dumb question. Take notes! “Chef – do you want those chiffonade vegetables cut the way you showed me yesterday?” Now that’s a dumb question. “Chef, since I have 100 chicken breasts to prepare for service do they still need to be caramelized first?” – no comment.

[] PERSONAL TOOLS ARE VERY PERSONAL

This still remains one of the most important rules in the kitchen to learn – a cook or chef’s personal tools are his or her personal tools. These tools allow that cook to perform at a certain level, they have history, they are an investment, they are cared for and sharpened with a passion typically reserved for relationships with people – DON’T TOUCH THEM, DON’T LET OTHERS TOUCH THEM, DON’T EVEN ASK – STAY AWAY! If you touch another cook’s tools you will encounter the rage of a person who acts as if you inappropriately touched a friend or partner. Respect other’s tools.

[] IT’S ALL ABOUT MISE EN PLACE

Others in the kitchen will judge you on how organized you are, how set your station is, and how well thought out your work system might be. Everyone in the kitchen knows that mise en place is the foundation for success and those who are not organized, not ready – will bring down the rest of the group.

[] CLEAN AS YOU GO

Efficient cooks work clean. You can look at a cook’s station and know immediately if they are capable of handling a busy, stressful night. Good cooks work clean and they take pride in this fact. Whenever there is a spare minute, a good cook is tidying up their station, washing down counters, sanitizing tools, refolding aprons, and taking a visual inventory of their set-up. This is how efficient cooks roll and how they maintains calm during the busiest times of a service shift.

[] WASTED MOVEMENT WEARS THIN ON EVERYONE

Back to mise en place. The best cooks set-up their workstation so that only a pivot step is needed to reach pans, mise en place, towels, wines for reduction, plates, seasonings, and POS tickets. Wasted steps wear your out – plan to avoid them.

[] LET THEM KNOW WHERE YOU ARE

Kitchens are busy, even chaotic at times. Although people should never run, they are walking as quickly as they can. Cooks rarely walk empty handed, so as they move with determination they probably have something fragile, sharp, hot, or wet. Professional cooks always announce their presence to avoid collisions: “behind, corner, hot, heads up, lifting, or knocking when entering or leaving a walk-in cooler – all of these cures are critical steps in keeping a kitchen safe.

[] KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS

It is the cook’s responsibility to know the ingredients he or she works with. Know what they look like, where and how they are stored, what their purpose might be, what their flavor profile is, how to determine level of freshness. Blank stares when a cook asks how to determine the difference between a top round and 109 rib, broccoli from broccolini or broccoli raahb, or cilantro from parsley are a forewarning that anger and disgust are not far behind. Study and inquire early on, but make sure that product ID becomes your new language.

[] KNOW YOUR COOKING METHODS and PROCESSES

Sure recipes are important and should be part of the control systems in an operation that help to ensure consistent costs and quality, however, it is not that difficult to memorize and consistently use cooking methods, as they should be. If you know how to braise- you can braise anything; if you know how to grill-you can grill anything; and if you know how to finish a sauce monte au beurre – then it is second nature to do so.

[] PRIORITIZE YOUR WORK

When given a series of tasks to perform – a competent cook begins by determining the time it takes for each product and/or step, and which item feeds into another preparation. Set your prep sheet up in this manner – make it a habit.

[] RESPECT EVERYONE’S SPACE

People, in any situation, require enough space to perform or feel comfortable. Those same people will fill that space in a manner that works for them. If their space is infringed on then they become less efficient and frustrated and the result is tension and less than stellar performance. When a cook identifies his or her work area then respect it and stay behind your own line of demarcation.

[] WORK FAST, BUT DON’T SACRIFICE QUALITY

One of the critical skills in a kitchen is a “sense of urgency”. There will always be too much work to accomplish in too short a period of time – it still needs to get done. The solution is to organize, prioritize, and learn to work faster. At the same time there can never be a slip in quality or acceptance of mediocre work. Cut faster; learn to multi-task, work from lists, set goals, hustle, hustle, and hustle. Nine times out of ten chefs will state that one serious shortcoming of culinary school graduates is that they don’t know how to multi-task or hustle. Act like your life depends on getting everything done.

[] LEARN THE CHAIN OF COMMAND

The kitchen chain of command (brigade) dates back to the days of Escoffier. The system developed in the 1880’s is still appropriate today. Of most importance is that cooks understand and respect the chain of command: who does what, who is responsible, who to go to in certain situations, and above all else know that in the moment: “Yes Chef” is the only answer.

[] TRUST IS EARNED – IT IS NOT A GIVEN

As a new cook keep in mind that you have yet to earn the trust of established members of the team. It may take time for this trust to occur, but it will only take a second to lose. Trust is based on how you act, perform, and respect others in the moment. Trust must be earned again, and again – every day. Without trust the kitchen comes to a standstill.

[] TAKE NOTES – REMAIN A STUDENT

Keep a small spiral notebook in your pocket. Write down what you learn every day – no mater how small – write it down. How many eggplants does it take to make parmigiana for 150 guests? How much stock does it take to make a quart of demi? How does the chef want the salmon portioned? How is that new menu feature plated? What is the shelf life of fresh round fish on ice? How did the chef determine what to charge for that feature? What does the station map for sauté look like?

[] EVERY PLACE DOES THINGS DIFFERENTLY

You should always assume that what you learned in school or on the job at another operation is a correct way of accomplishing certain tasks, however, “When In Rome – Do as The Romans Do.” A new operation, a new chef, and a new manager – these individuals have their own way of accomplishing tasks, preparing items, and plating dishes. Know that in this operation that is how it should be done. As time goes by you may be able to offer your personal ideas and experiences, and then – feel free. But today you are working in Rome.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

Also: check out my articles on the American Culinary Federation Official Blog: www.wearechefs.com

and… articles for culinary educators on the website for The Center for Advancement of Foodservice Education (CAFÉ) – Gold Medal Classroom – Think Tank

www.cafemeetingplace.com

CHEFS PLANTING SEEDS – THE RETURN OF TRAINING ON THE JOB

09 Wednesday May 2018

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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Chef mentors, chefs, cooks, kitchen labor challenges, kitchen training, line cooks, restaurants

chuck and mickey

Here we are – seven or eight years into a steady economic recovery in the U.S. leading to the admirable statistic of a 3.9% unemployment rate (granted this is not qualified with regard to those who have stopped looking or those who are working at less than full time) – a figure that a decade or so ago would have far surpassed what is referred to as “full-employment” (all who want to work are doing so). Feels great America! Of course every silver lining has a bit of a crusty exterior, in this case an exterior that is making it increasingly difficult for the restaurant industry.

I know – you have heard this story played out countless times over the past couple years, but the fact remains that the challenge is still there and, in fact, growing in severity. Restaurants can’t find talented, hard-working, passionate cooks and servers. This is true from coast to coast and in every sector of the food business. In recent travels I encountered quick service restaurant concepts without order takers and menu concepts that are becoming more and more automated. This is the answer that more and more restaurant operators are turning to – if they can’t find and retain workers then it must be time to streamline and automate. Another full-service restaurant had a fairly large sign out front that proclaimed: “Looking for Awesome Employees”. Good luck with that – most restaurants are looking for anyone who might show up.

THE ROBOTIC KITCHEN – Is this where we want to be?

http://www.grubstreet.com/2018/05/video-spyce-restaurant-opens-in-boston-with-a-robot-kitchen.html

So maybe it is OK to take one more stab at a partial solution to the challenge. We all know the reasons that go beyond full employment: low pay, weak benefits, damn hard work, battlefield working conditions, lack of upward mobility, the need to truly “serve” if you want to be part of the restaurant family, and far too many managers and chefs who fail to understand how to effectively lead and manage. Yes, these are real issues that the restaurant industry must wrap its arms around and approach as a systemic issue, but isn’t there some place where the average restaurant can start in the meantime?

From 1980-2001 or so, culinary and hospitality schools were flourishing. The overhyped excitement of working in the restaurant and hotel business drew young people by the thousands to these centers for career development. Swashbuckling, starched uniformed chefs were center-stage role models for young aspiring cooks who now carried kits of Henkel knives, Birkenstock clogs, Bragard chef coats and Thomas Keller’s latest food porn cookbook to classrooms from coast to coast. This was the career of a new generation of cooks with visions of grandeur and hopes of owning their own Michelin restaurant.

For a few, this dream became a reality; for a percentage a career in food lived up to the hype, but for a significant group the reality hit when kitchen jobs failed to be quite as glamorous as they had hoped, and the pay didn’t even come close to covering the burden of hefty college debt. Fast-forward to today and it is pretty easy to assess why we are facing such a shortage of energetic, hard-working, passionate restaurant employees.

How do a chef and the restaurateur unravel this complex problem and build a cadre of cooks and service staff who share in the enthusiasm for a restaurant concept and the art of cooking great food? Maybe, just maybe, it is time to turn back the clock a bit and identify when and why things went a bit sideways.

I would dare say that the vast majority of chefs today who are over the age of 40 probably became interested in the profession because of a chef or fellow cook who inspired them on that first job. Maybe it was washing dishes, or if you were lucky – working as an assistant on the breakfast line, but surely your initial passion for a career in food came from that first experience working with an individual with admirable skills and a willingness to take you under his or her wing. This may have been your first experience with a mentor – a person with the ability and desire to commit to you and your success. This was (I know it was for me) an exhilarating feeling that even surpassed the encouragement that your parents and teachers may have provided. It didn’t always take the form of a person who patted you on the back and told you great things about your promise as a cook; in fact, it might have been the opposite. This might have been the person who rode you incessantly; a chef who never let you take a shortcut, always told you that you could do better, and always insisted that you work harder than you thought was possible. This is, after all, what true mentors do.

tony and I

The chef/mentor never let a day go by without showing you how to do more, explaining why things were done a certain way, and/or showing disappointment when you failed to live up to his or her expectations. On occasion, the chef might say – good job, but compliments were never given freely unless they were duly earned. You wouldn’t think of coming to work with a $300 French knife or any tool that was beyond your level of expertise. Tools were important, but just like position in the kitchen, they needed to be earned. On the other hand, this same chef/mentor wouldn’t allow you to step foot in the kitchen if you were not properly groomed, your uniform clean and pressed, and your shoes polished. If you wanted to be treated like a professional then your mentor would insist that you look and act like one. Maybe it’s time to look back in time and reinstate the rigor of mentorship and the honor of training.

Not everyone can afford the go to culinary school. There was a time when it was a luxury, not a right of passage. When one can’t afford the cost of tuition then the degree becomes as much of a burden as an opportunity. The chef, however, has within his or her power – the ability to teach, train, share, mentor, and demand excellence from those who have the passion but not the resources to take the college route to a career. If you can’t find the talent from outside then maybe it’s time to return to “training your own” and realize that the first and most important job of the chef is to “pass it on” and build those with desire into competent cooks with the ability to rise to a chef position in the future.

When you invest in others then you create a dynamic that far exceeds the importance of other immediate forms of compensation. Without the burden of college loans, many of those passionate young cooks might just be able to tough out those formative years before responsibility and compensation fall into line.

Here are some basic rules of mentorship that might be best served as part of the modern chef’s bag of tricks when it comes to building and keeping a team:

[] BE A BEACON OF EXCELLENCE

People may select a job for various reasons: money, location, type of work, lifestyle, flexibility, etc., but they typically leave a job because of the person they work for or the people they work with. When the chef or restaurateur defines the standards of excellence in quality of work and how others are treated then there are far fewer reasons to look for opportunities elsewhere.

[] NEVER ACCEPT MEDIOCRITY

The chef should set the standard, by example, for excellence and never waiver from that standard. Excellence is contagious and as such it will become a source of pride.

[] PUSH OTHERS TO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Although there are certainly exceptions to the rule – many people rise to the occasion when it is assumed that expectations will always be met or exceeded. The chef should always push members of the team to constantly improve and strive for exceptional results.

[] CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT OF RIGOR

There is something truly gratifying about working hard to achieve results. Whether it is physical, mental, or emotional – when a restaurant environment is created that challenges employees to accomplish more than they felt was possible, then the bar is constantly raised. “The difficult we do right away, the impossible takes a little bit longer.”

[] DO THINGS RIGHT

Look at the truly extraordinary restaurants and you will quickly note that no matter what detail – the operation is totally focused on doing the job correctly. This is not a goal; this is simply the way that everything is approached.

[] HONE YOUR SKILLS AS A TRAINER AND A TEACHER

Once a chef understands that his or her primary job is to “pass it on” and spend the time necessary to properly train, teach, and develop employees then the operation takes on a brand new energy that can be quite intoxicating.

[] SET THE STAGE FOR TEAM

Concentrating on the individual will only go so far – the goal is to ensure that those individuals bond to form a cohesive, like-minded cohort that moves in unison, thinks collaboratively, and acts as if they are one. This happens when the chef is able and willing to create an environment of inclusion, focused excellence, self-critique, discipline, and results oriented effort. Great communication, high expectations, superb training and teaching, and active critique will help to build this environment.

This is certainly not the “one answer” to the restaurant industry’s labor challenges, but maybe it is a start. Invest in people and they will tend to invest themselves in you and your business.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

Restaurant Consulting and Training

**See other articles of interest in The American Culinary Federations Official Blog:

www.wearechefs.com

**PHOTOS: #1: Chef’s Charles Carroll and Michael Beriau (two incredible influences in my career), #2: Chef Anton Flory, CMC – my mentor

THAT’S HOW COOKS ROLL IN THE KITCHEN

27 Friday Apr 2018

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line cooks, the cooks profile

Many have written about the make-up of line cooks– what makes them tick? What is evident is that the best cooks are complicated characters, yet fairly easy to generalize. Having worked with a wide array of individuals filling the ranks of cooks I feel comfortable making some generalizations. This does not attempt to look at the many other individual character traits of each unique cook, but rather looks at the common denominators.

Standing on the line with the intense heat of a cooking battery behind them, tongs in hand, bib apron tied, pans lined up and hot, flames licking from the grates of a char-grill, and eyes zeroed in on the tickets clipped to the dupe rail – all line cooks seem to share in these common denominators.

WHEN THE DINING ROOM BEGINS TO FILL – LOOK INTO THE EYES OF THE COOK. THIS IS WHAT YOU WILL LIKELY SEE:

[] STRENGTH:

Tall, short, young or old, male or female, large or small – all line cooks have a physical strength, out of necessity, that allows them to meet the demands of the job. Cooking is a sport with all of the demands of any other physical job. Lifting, bending, reaching, stretching, being limber on their feet, and having the grip of an arm wrestler are all traits of the cook that are absolutely necessary and universally present.

[] MENTAL ACUITY:

Being “sharp as a tack” is a phrase made for the line cook. There is a multitude of tasks and processes to keep at the forefront of a look’s mind. The brain is constantly assessing, categorizing, reviewing, and making decisions based on the ability to keep everything in order. Problem solving happens countless times during a shift as a line cook moves through the demands placed on his or her ability to “think”. You can see it in a cook’s eyes, in his or her deliberate motions, and how well the hands respond to the decisions of the brain.

[] EMOTIONS IN CHECK:

Yes, line cooks may have reputation of being crusty, but in essence they are all driven by emotions. When it comes to those moments when a cook is faced with an onslaught of orders and the need to make those instantaneous decisions – he or she must be all business – the emotions are pushed aside, but remain only dormant until the end of a shift. Anger, despair, love, hate, fear, anxiety, and pity are all just a few inches below the surface. This pushing aside of emotions is not very healthy, but necessary in the moment.

[] RESILIANCE:

Cooks don’t often forget those things that bring emotions to the surface, but they are able to bounce back and allow the need for efficiency and quality work to take the lead. Resilience is a tool in every cook’s bag of tricks that can be turned on in an instant when the situation demands that they get back on their feet. This resilience, however, does dissipate in short order and can weigh heavy on a cook’s psyche.

[] A PERSON CRAVING VALIDATION:

Cooks are extremely proud people. If they view the job of cooking as a calling, then just like anyone else, they thrive on the validation of their skills by others. Whether it be the chef, owner, or guest the line cook secretly craves acknowledgement that they have done a good job. Above all else it is the nod of approval from their peers that trumps reigns supreme. Of course, cooks like to see clean plates come back from the dining room, and they certainly appreciate a pat on the back from the chef, but a “thumbs up” from a peer allows the cook to feel validated.

[] NERVOUS CONFIDENCE:

When the doors to the restaurant open and those tickets start clicking off the POS, every line cook must feel ready, they must be ready, their mise must be tight, their mental state must be on high alert, and their connection with the team surrounding them must be electric. On the surface this is the image that they want to portray, that they must portray; but underneath there is always that understanding that it won’t take much for things to go south. It is this understanding that oftentimes drives a cook to push for the right amount of prep and do what needs to be done to be “on his or her game”.

[] OBSESSIVENESS ABOUT DETAILS:

In the kitchen, especially on the line, everything is a detail that jockey’s for position as a priority. Watch line cook’s during that final 30-minutes before service to understand how they sweat the details. “Are my pans hot with handles pointing in a specific direction, are side towels folded just so, is the pinch pot of salt and pepper built from the correct proportions, are oil and wine bottles filled, is there enough chiffonade of parsley, have I hydrated enough, did I monte au beurre the sauces in the bain – everything is critical to a successful service.

[] READY FOR BATTLE:

Look back to those eyes, to the concentration, to the nerves on edge, the bounce in their step, the relentless wiping down of a station, and the pacing within their triangle of space – these cooks are ready, chomping at the bit, anxious to get on with it, but most importantly in a position to exceed even their own expectations. The battle is near and the troops are prepared for action.

Line cooks are the Gentle Giants of the kitchen. This is the crew that makes or breaks a kitchen, that defines how well received a chef’s menu will be and how successful a restaurant can become. This is how line cooks rolls in the kitchen. Not dissimilar to a professional football team – when the kitchen line is on their game you can feel it in the air, the chef can sense greatness in the making, and the customer knows that they are about to experience something memorable.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

LINE COOKS GOING THE DISTANCE

20 Friday Apr 2018

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line cooks

Emmer 1

Jake woke up with a pounding headache. It was only 7 a.m. and he was already sweating from the July humidity or maybe it was from those last two shots of tequila just a few hours ago. As was the case on most nights after a busy service – he found his way to the local bar with a few other cooks for that end of night reward. Just one drink turned into a few more than he could remember. He stumbled back to his lonely apartment and crashed – still in his hounds tooth chef pants. Jake dragged himself to the Keurig coffee maker on his kitchen counter, grabbed the bottle of Ibuprofen and shook four brown pills into his palm while waiting for that first cup of coffee to brew. This was going to be a rough day.

Being a line cook is damn hard work – it is physically, mentally and emotionally draining, yet once a cook is in the zone the job is almost intoxicating. Jake knows that it will be a struggle to brush the cobwebs from his foggy brain and get over the first couple hours of payment for last nights indiscretions, but he is confident that he will rise above the challenge. A quick shower, another cup of coffee, and a few half-hearted minutes of exercises and he is out the door by 9 a.m. ready for whatever the kitchen might bring today.

So what draws people to this craziness, this repeated abuse (some of which is self-inflicted), and the environment that can beat a person up – especially in the summer months? Jake asked himself this same question nearly every morning as he walked the ten blocks to the back loading dock. His inventory of answers looks something like this:

[] I’M GOOD AT WHAT I DO

After years of working in kitchens Jake knew that his skills could rival anyone’s, especially when it came to organization, speed, flavor and presentation.

[] IT’S NEVER BORING

Although there is a routine in the kitchen – every day brings new challenges and unpredictable twists – this keeps it exciting.

[] THE TEAM ENERGY

Every line cook knows that this is a team sport. Individual talent pales in comparison to unity and focus as a group. The team is only as good as it’s weakest link.

[] THE ADRENALINE RUSH

When the line is cranking full tilt, the adrenaline rush is similar to the endorphin experience that runners have when they get that sudden burst of energy.

[] THIS IS WHERE I FEEL CREATIVE

Jake loves the fact that every dish created on the line is a work of art and personal expression even when the plate design is prescribed by the chef. Line cooks take pride in pushing that plate through the pass – it is as if they are able to sign their work each time.

[] EVERYONE IS ACCEPTED

No matter what baggage a cook might bring to the table – it is their work that counts in the kitchen. Everything else is unimportant when the work meets expectations.

Jake walked through the back door of the kitchen – head still pounding and that typical uneasiness apparent as he wonders what challenges lie before him. He slides into a fresh, starched chef’s jacket, ties on an apron and tucks his hair into a skullcap. He splashes some cold water in his face, switches his running shoes for polished black kitchen clogs and grabs his knife kit – “Here we go”.

Before any greetings – Jake grabs another cup of coffee and snatches two pieces of bacon from the steam table. With something in his stomach he now walks the kitchen and says good morning to the breakfast crew. Grabbing a wet side towel and cutting board he sets up his work station, lays out his knives, and snags the clipboard with the prep sheet that he set-up last night before the end of his shift. Last night was busy so he will need to rework most of his station mise en place – thus the reason for coming in early.

The list is long: reduce stock with mirepoix for a demi, peel and devein 10 pounds of shrimp, clean 15 pounds of U-10 scallops, 20 portions of filets for tournedos, fillet 30 portions of seven-ounce salmon, pound out 24 chicken breasts for schnitzel, mince 3 bulbs of garlic, chiffonade 4 bunches of Italian parsley, puree 1 quart of shallots, clarify 10 pounds of butter, etc., etc. The list was long and a bit intimidating, but Jake knew from experience that time invested in building a tight mise en place will be the key to a successful service. Tonight will be very busy.

An hour into prep and Jake was starting to feel better. He took ten minutes to top off those two strips of bacon with a respectable breakfast and another cup of coffee – back to work. His only other break was to stop and help to check, unpack and store the deliveries that arrived starting at around 9 a.m. Jake, unlike some of the other younger cooks was methodical about the coolers and storeroom. Everything was checked, labeled and dated, and rotated on shelves. Whole fish were packed in crushed ice, produce was transferred from boxes to Lexan containers, fresh herbs were covered with damp paper towels, and meats for tonight were removed from their packaging, quickly rinsed to rid them of the Cryovac funk, lightly oiled and stored in the coldest part of the walk-in, and dry goods were rotated and stored with labels facing out. This is where mise en place begins.

By 2 p.m. Jake was done with prep and able to help other members of his team until it was time to set up his station. The stock was still reducing for a rich demi glace, and a fish fumet was underway from the halibut bones that arrived with the fish order. Jake helped the sous chef finish off the veal shanks that were braising for Osso Bucco and portioned Wagyu strip steaks for the grill cook who was a bit behind. At 4:00 he switched over to his station set-up making sure that each ingredient was in its assigned location, herbs for garnishing were snipped, sauté pans were seasoned and stacked in the oven to pre-heat, clarified butter and sauces were set in a bain marie, and his towels were perfectly folded. Jake even went through the stacks of plates that would be used to make sure that they were spotless – this was his canvas.

Emmer 2

At 5:15 the chef walked through the line to double check set-up and taste sauces, relishes, and sides before the first orders ticked in at 5:30. Jake was ready. His mise en place was perfect, those pre-opening knots in his stomach were ever-present, and those beads of summer sweat were beginning to run down his forehead and back. One more cup of coffee (this time espresso) and then he would switch to water for the rest of the night.

The chef gave everyone the thumbs up as the first orders ticked off the POS. The line cooks looked at each other with a nod, shared fist bumps, and had that look of readiness for battle. The time had arrived – bring it on!

“Ordering – three scallops, two strips mid-rare, one Bucco, and a tournedos rare! “Yes chef” was the response from the team – here we go.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

**PHOTOS: The kitchen team at Emmer and Rye in Austin, TX.

NOTE: For more stories of Jake and life in the kitchen – don’t miss reading:

“The Event That Changed Everything”

Click below to order your copy today from Amazon.

www.amazon.com/Event-That-Changed-Everything-Relationships/dp/1491755105/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524226317&sr=8-1&keywords=The+Event+That+Changed+Everything

OWNERS/OPERATORS – VALUING COOKS AND CHEFS

07 Saturday Apr 2018

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chefs, cooks, line cooks, restaurants, valuing cooks

Painted in Waterlogue

It is certainly true that those who work in the kitchen are not the only reason why a restaurant may be successful, but it is certain that if the back-of-the-house team is not competent, is unable to function as a cohesive unit, or lacks the passion to take pride in their work then the restaurant is destined to fail.

With the ever-increasing challenge of finding enough of the “right” people to work in restaurant kitchens we are all aware that it is time to take a hard look at the individuals who choose to wear the uniform and represent the restaurant industry. Some may point to changing norms and attitudes about the work and maybe even a lack of commitment on the part of a new generation of cooks, but I tend to take a different approach. Before we (those in positions of authority in restaurant settings) point the finger at others as the source of the problem it might be wise to look at ourselves first. What is the attitude and approach that owners and operators, even executive chefs, take towards those who prepare the food that restaurant guests pay for?

Not to sound like a broken record, but the shortage of eager employees and the restaurant industry’s poor track record with retaining good cooks continues to be the number one challenge facing this important, growing industry (see the following link). www.nytimes.com/2018/04/05/dining/labor-shortage-restaurants-employment.html?smid=fb-share

Here are some thoughts on how we might consider approaching cooks and young chefs who will establish how our industry is perceived for the next few decades:

[] RESPECTING THE SKILL IT TAKES

Good cooks are not interchangeable parts. To be a certifiable cook requires a unique set of skills that takes time to develop, and in some cases natural talent. A good cook is organized, able to multi-task, comfortable with a wide range of cooking methods, gifted with a finely tuned palate, disciplined, confident, able to problem-solve, and fast. In other professions this breadth of skills and aptitudes would be well -respected and compensated. In the kitchen there is a tendency to view these as common and not worthy of the respect they are due.

[] UNDERSTANDING THE PASSION

There is a point when these good cooks look in a mirror and acknowledge that this job is their career choice, that food and everything about it is something that is worthy of their full concentration, and that continually learning how to improve their skill set is not just a requirement of the position, but more importantly, something that gives them pleasure and purpose. This is when the job of cooking becomes their passion. When a cook reaches this point the mental, physical, and emotional connection to food is so strong that it impacts on how they view themselves, their interaction with others, and their feelings about how their work is accepted and respected. Cooks become very sensitive when it comes to how others perceive the quality of their work.

[] PROVIDING THE TOOLS FOR SUCCESS

Tools do not necessarily make the cook, but the tools provided signify the respect that owners/operators and chefs have for the passion that cooks demonstrate for the craft. The right tools make the job of cooking more fluid and enjoyable. The right tools send an important message to the cook that their work is important.

[] PROVIDING A VEHICLE FOR COMMUNICATION

Assuming that “Yes Chef” (an important part of showing respect and accepting responsibility in a kitchen) means that a cook cannot have an opinion, or is incapable of contributing new ideas, is no longer acceptable. Owners and chefs need to learn to listen to those cooks who have the passion and subsequently need a forum for communicating concerns and ideas. This is one of the easiest steps that operators can take in improving recruitment and retention of good cooks.

[] INVESTING IN THEIR ON-GOING EDUCATION

The goal should always be to attract those cooks with the greatest potential as contributors to the success of the business and then work hard to keep them. One of the best ways to show respect for the position and demonstrate how cooks are valued is to invest in their growth. In-service training, sending cooks to workshops, making connections for cooks to stagiere with other great chefs, or sending them on educational food adventures is a surefire way of accomplishing these goals.

[] FAIR COMPENSATION

This is the “of course” way to demonstrate appreciation and build an environment for cook retention, however, as a whole; restaurants have not taken the time to figure out the “how to” with the issue of fair compensation. What is “fair”? Is it fair that a person with the skill set previously mentioned cannot make enough money to support him or herself or a family? Is it fair and reasonable that a majority of cooks do not receive any form of healthcare from their restaurant employer? Is it fair that most restaurants do not provide vacation or sick time for those cooks who hold an important key to the restaurants success? I think the obvious answer is “no”, even though we can easily come up with an array of answers as to why restaurants do not provide these fundamental benefits of employment. If the answer is “no” then we need to figure out a way to address the challenge, to modify the business model, and to look at new efficiencies that will allow restaurants to be successful and care for their most important resources in the process.

[] HELPING THEM WITH BALANCE

Just like many who are reading this article – I too worked the unpredictable, somewhat absurd hours that are required of cooks and chefs. I did so because I understood that this is what it took to be in the kitchen. Just like you, I worked through holidays and family events and knew that my schedule was always fluid – subject to change without notice. Just like you, my family and friends grew to accept this because “This is the way it is in restaurants”. Yep, I did this like many of you and at times looked upon others who did not make the same commitment as being somehow less dedicated to their work than I. Guess what – because we accepted it doesn’t mean it was right.

We will probably never see a dramatic change in the spontaneous and sometimes excessive demands of this service business, but as owners/operators and chefs we can learn to be more responsive to a cook’s needs outside of work and help them to find ways of creating a level of balance. Way beyond the meager compensation packages typically offered, it is this overly demanding lifestyle of a cook that drives them away at some point and changes those passionate cooks into bitter, tired and discontent employees.

[] HOLDING THEIR FEET TO THE FIRE

I always think that it is important to finish with this point: good people want others to have high expectations of them. Good cooks want to be great cooks and they are fully aware that to get to that point takes considerable effort on their part, sometimes over and above what they are scheduled to do. Good cooks enjoy being pushed to get better as long as they know that their effort along the way is appreciated. Good cooks relish the rigor of a kitchen that never accepts anything but the best from each and every employee. When a chef and a property holds a cook’s “feet to the fire” it is a symbol of respect and an indication of knowing that with the right level of encouragement every good cook can aspire to be great.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

“Be something special – be a serious cook.”

QUOTES TO LIVE BY FOR LINE COOKS

15 Friday Dec 2017

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chef quotes, chefs, cooks, culinary, line cooks

Painted in Waterlogue

Well-crafted thoughts and words are, at least to me, fuel for the soul, energy for the body, and thought provoking for the mind. I often find that certain quotes from people who have attained a level of success in life can have meaning for others and as such serve to help “self-motivate”. As 2017 comes to an end, I thought that it might be beneficial to share some of my favorite quotes with line cooks, aspiring culinary students, and accomplished chefs. These quotes would often find their way onto my office door as a reminder to myself and to others. Hopefully they can do the same for you.

* “Fire in the belly of a cook is very important. If you don’t have it – your cooking tastes old.”

–Barbara Tropp (Legendary chef/restaurateur of San Francisco’s China Moon and celebrated cookbook author)

That desire and innate need to push forward, learn more and more, build your palate, execute a perfect dish, constantly improve, and create a dish that is filled with that “Wow” factor is essential if a person is to be that cook who inspires others and excites the guest. Cooking to this type of individual is not a job, but rather a calling and an opportunity to strive for excellence.

* “If you strive like crazy for perfection – an all out assault on total perfection – at the very least you will hit a high level of excellence, and then you might be able to sleep at night.”

–Charlie Trotter (Iconic chef/owner of Trotter’s Restaurant in Chicago)

Perfection is the carrot that always remains just a few inches out of reach, yet those who have this in their sights will jump out of bed each day with a mission. The Japanese refer to it as “Kaisen” a state of mind that drives a person to constantly improve. Charlie Trotter was a prime example of a chef who was never satisfied, who always pushed the envelope and who expected nothing less from every person who worked with and for him.

* “For me, it’s the satisfaction of cooking every day; tourneing a carrot, cutting salmon or fabricating a tenderloin – the mechanical jobs that I do daily, year after year. Maintain the passion for the everyday, that’s what cooking is all about.”

–Thomas Keller (One of the world’s most accomplished chef/restaurateurs owner of The French Laundry, Per Se, and Bouchon)

Seasoned cooks will tell you about the comfort that comes from the routine of doing everyday tasks at the highest level of excellence. The curve balls that are thrown at cooks every day will drive adrenaline through the system, but it is the cadence of a routine that brings the greatest satisfaction and a sense of calm within the storm and organized chaos of the kitchen.

* “People are more important than tools. If you don’t believe so – put a good tool in the hands of a poor workman.”

–John Bernet (One of America’s greatest railroad men who saved the industry)

I have a story that relates well with this quote – it zeros in on a head scratcher for me. After decades in the kitchen and much of that time in culinary education I always shook my head when an 18 year old freshman student would arrive in the kitchen on day one with an $800 set of Henkel knives or an equally awe inspiring $400 Shun French knife. At this point they had never diced an onion or drawn a knife blade across a wet stone – yet, their tools were far superior to that of the most accomplished career chef. I also recall, many years ago, seeing Judy Collins in concert in Buffalo, New York. She started her show by saying that this was the 10^th time that she had performed at this particular venue and the first time that they had allowed her to use the good piano.

People and the proven skills that they own, the attitudes that they carry, and the trust that envelopes their interactions with others will always trump the tools that they have access to. The best tools are often a reward for all of those “people factors”. We have all witnessed exceptional cooking come from kitchens that were very substandard and far too many mediocre meals that came from a state-of-the-art environment. People are the key.

* “Good attitudes among players do not guarantee a teams success, but bad attitudes guarantee its failure.”

–John C. Maxwell (Author of numerous self-help and management/leadership books)

The best rule of thumb for chefs is to hire positive attitude first – you can always build the skills over time, but it is nearly impossible to change the stripes on a tiger once they are of a certain age. Design your interviews and tryouts to bring out any underlying attitudes and then make your decision to hire or not. If those poor attitudes (glass is always half empty) rear up their ugly head after the hire then point them out, counsel, and if necessary point them in the direction of the back door. The team cannot survive in the presence of a bad apple.

* “Restaurant profit is found in the peel of the onion, not the onion and in the lobster shell not the lobster itself.”

–Marc Meneau (Now retired, Chef Meaneau was chef and operator of L’Esperance one of France’s great Michelin 3 –star mecca restaurants)

The delineation of responsibility in a kitchen can be far too literal. The lines that separate duties are always grey except in the case of quality and cost control. When all cooks understand that the life of a restaurant and the success of those who work there is measured in pennies and that they have the opportunity and the responsibility to keep those pennies intact, then financial goals can be met. Otherwise, if the role of ensuring profit rests solely on the shoulders of the chef – then success will always remain out of reach. Marc Meneau was able to run a kitchen where waste was never an option, where total use of everything available to the cook was the rule, and where every person fully understood that they shared in this responsibility.

* “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime – you just might get what you need.”

–Mick Jaggar

I am directing this famous line from a Rolling Stones song to every young apprentice, culinary extern, and culinary school graduate. The carrot that they all desire, the position of chef, will take time and can only be realized if they look squarely at the task at hand and complete it with 100% dedication towards excellence. I once had a young cook tell me that she wanted to work the line in a Michelin Three-star restaurant, but the chef would only allow her to wash and peel mushrooms. I asked how she felt about peeling mushrooms and her response was: “I hate it – it is a waste of my talent and experience.” My response was: “How can you expect the chef of a monumental restaurant to allow you to touch the food that will become his restaurants signature when you can’t even respect the simplest task for its importance and relish the beauty of those mushrooms?” If you want the position then do what is front of you at the very highest level and in time the carrot will be yours.

* “Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well.”

-Philip Stanhope (The 4^th Earl of Chesterfield England)

I know absolutely nothing about Philip Stanhope, but remember this quote as a man who, at the time, owned the most expansive record store in Buffalo and all of Western New York used it. The first time I visited the shop I was amazed at the size of the collection – there must have been nearly every record available on the market within the walls of this massive store. Many of those titles would never find a buyer, but if one existed, he or she could find it there. I asked the owner – “Why would you carry such an inventory knowing that a portion of it would never sell.” His response was classic: “My father always told me two things – first: Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well, and There is always room to be the best – plenty of businesses settle for mediocrity.”

Hopefully, as 2018 arrives you can find inspiration in some of these quotes – I know they will always have meaning for me.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Happy Holidays

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

***NOT TOO LATE FOR THAT LAST MINUTE GIFT for a line cook, culinary student, or chef. Click on the link below to order your copy of “The Event That Changed Everything” a novel about chefs, cooks, and restaurants written by a chef who has been there.

http://www.amazon.com/Event-That-Changed-Everything-Relationships/dp/1491755105/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513349929&sr=8-1&keywords=The+Event+That+Changed+Everything

MacGyver SURVIVAL SKILLS FOR LINE COOKS

03 Sunday Dec 2017

Posted by culinarycuesblog in Uncategorized

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chefs, cooks, line cooks, MacGyver in the kitchen

chef

Many of us remember the original MacGyver series in the 80’s where Angus MacGyver, a rogue scientist who worked for a fictitious government agency, used his uncanny problem solving skills to get him out of some pretty hairy situations. Sometimes with a paper clip and gum wrapper he was able to disarm nuclear weapons or stop some vise clamp walls from crushing him like a pancake. Many people looked forward to watching each week and storing up some survival ideas “just in case”.

Every career, especially those that involve tactile skills, has discovered those few “hacks” that can be pulled out of their bag of tricks when the moment requires some immediate problem solving. Cooking is no different than any other field in this regard, so I thought it might be useful to point to some of the hacks that line cooks use to save a potentially out of control situation or simply get through a busy night. The key with all of these is to survive without sacrificing the quality of work or the integrity of a dish.

If you have worked the line for any length of time then you are probably aware of most of these, but just in case here are a few that might save the day:

[] KEEP YOUR PANS ON THE READY

Line cooks who work the sauté station are acutely aware that their pans must be screaming hot before a protein hits the surface. Even with flames at full throttle this can take a minute or so and slow down the action. A simple trick is to store your sauté pans in a hot oven so that they are ready whenever you are. This saves a few seconds and can help a cook to keep the pace of cooking.

[] SAVING A BROKEN HOLLANDAISE

A hollandaise is a sauce that is comprised of the fewest ingredients, yet if prepared incorrectly or stored inappropriately will fail consistently. If that sauce begins to “break” (clarified butter separating from egg yolks) there is a quick hack to bring it back. Add a few drops of boiling water to the broken hollandaise and whisk with reckless abandon. If that doesn’t work try adding another egg yolk while whisking.

[] 60 SECOND HOLLANDAISE ON THE FLY

It’s brunch and your Eggs Benedict station has been hit hard – turning to that bain holding hollandaise, the line cook notes that there are only a few portions of hollandaise remaining for an ever-growing number of orders. Have no fear – clarified butter is likely already on the line, eggs are readily available, and lemon wedges are at your fingertips. If you have a blender then hollandaise can be made in 60 seconds. The same method: egg yolks, a few drops of hot water and blend until the yolks turn pale yellow and fluff, turn to medium speed and gradually add the clarified butter in a steady stream, finish with a pinch of salt, fresh lemon juice and a few drops of Tabasco – voila! The only difference is that with this method you will need approximately twice as many egg yolks – the flavor is slightly richer, but otherwise just like the product made by hand.

[] TRICK THE NERVES IN YOUR HANDS

Handling very hot products from a water bath or slicing a roast can be painful and sometimes an impossible task. Keep a bowl of ice water at the ready and dip your fingers in between handling the product and trick your brain into thinking that the heat doesn’t matter. It works!

[] FORGOT TO SOAK THOSE BEANS

Of course we all have done this – you forgot to soak those dried beans overnight for a cassoulet, and here it is 3 p.m. with service looming at 5. Sort, rinse, and add your dried beans to enough water or stock with a teaspoon of baking soda. Simmer (don’t boil) and the baking soda will break the structure of those beans in no time. Make sure you don’t boil the beans or they will tend to blow up and lose their integrity with this method. Next time – plan ahead!

[] FAST AND EFFICIENT SHALLOTS

Cooks love using shallots as a full flavored, yet sweet and mellow alternative to onions – especially on the line. Instead of slicing or mincing the shallots – puree them in a blender. The shallots actually melt in the pan and are less likely to burn or add harshness to the dish.

[] AVOCADOS READY OVERNIGHT

You need some avocados for service tomorrow and they arrive from your vendor – hard as a rock. Keep them intact, cover them with flour, and store at room temperature overnight. The next day they are soft and ripe.

[] HOT COFFEE TO COOL DOWN

The heat on a busy line can be unbearable. Standing over a battery of open burners cranked to “10”, flames leaping from a char-grill, or a 760 degree open hearth oven can actually leave a cook with what resembles a few too many hours outside in the July sun. Dehydration is a real problem among line cooks and it is common to find a cook losing a couple pounds of weight in sweat after a night on the line. Keeping hydrated and finding some form of relief from heat that is intense enough to cook a person is of primary importance. Some might think that cold beverages are the answer, but in fact, a steady stream of warm drinking water or even hot coffee will provide even more relief in the long run.

[] PAR POACH EGGS

Back to brunch and that steady stream of Eggs Benedict orders – timing is essential and this dish requires a variety of different cooking steps: poach the eggs, toast the English muffin, grill the Canadian bacon, and brown the hollandaise just before pushing the finished dish through the pass. Any step saving method will help. Eggs can be pre-poached (about 80%) and better controlled if done in advance. Poach the eggs with simmering water and a touch of vinegar, transfer to ice water to shock and stop the cooking, transfer to refrigerated pans, and wait for the orders. When needed, transfer the pre-poached eggs back to a water bath for 20—30 seconds, just enough time to warm them through, and they are ready for assembly.

[] SIMPLE – KNIVES NEED TO BE SHARP

This is not a hack, but rather the most basic of time saving methods in a kitchen – keeping a cook’s knives sharp is an absolute. Right next to every cooks knives should be a steel and clean towel for wiping down knives that are constantly attended to.

[] MEMORIZE YOUR STATION MAP – KEEP YOUR ORGANIZATION

Next on the basic time saving methods is to have a well-designed station map that defines exactly where every ingredient and every tool is placed. Just like a pilot memorizes his or her array of controls and meters, so too must a line cook memorize where everything in a station is placed. You should be able to grab for anything without even looking. The follow-up is to make sure that everything is always returned to its place on the map no matter how busy you are.

[] WORK CLEAN – NO MATTER HOW BUSY YOU ARE

An efficient station is ALWAYS clean and cooks are always cleaning as they go. When station cleanliness begins to slip then the cook will start that slow and steady demise that eventually leads to chaos.

[] BLANCH – SHOCK – REFRESH

Again, the trick is to look for ways to save a few seconds here or there without any compromise to quality. One such method employed in most restaurants focuses on vegetables. Par blanching vegetables and shocking them in ice water, drying them and keeping them ready for a quick refresh when needed helps with timing, helps to maintain their nutritional value, and keeps them looking bright, crisp and fresh.

There are dozens of quality hacks that cooks use- always making sure that quality is never sacrificed. These MacGyver methods can help to keep a kitchen humming at peak efficiency and help to save the day when a curve ball is thrown as a surprise.

What are your favorite problem-solving techniques in the kitchen?

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

Harvest America Ventures

~ harvestamericacues

Tag Archives: line cooks

THAT FIRST NIGHT ON THE LINE ALL OVER AGAIN

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MacGyver SURVIVAL SKILLS FOR LINE COOKS

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