Tag Archives: restaurant life

WHAT CUSTOMERS DON’T KNOW ABOUT RESTAURANT WORK

17 Tuesday Nov 2020

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More difficult than you may have thought, more chaotic than you might expect, more poetic than you realize, and more fulfilling than you would understand: this, to me, describes the environment of the professional kitchen that few customers are able to view or experience.  It is this dichotomy of experiences that draws people into a career behind the range and keeps them there for decades. This is a behind the scenes look at the place and the people that bring a plate of food to the guest’s table. 

TEN THINGS YOU DIDN”T KNOW ABOUT A RESTAURANT

  • An organizational structure that attempts to keep things under control

There is a long history of how kitchens and restaurants are structured.  Although executed at different levels – this structure is something that all those whom work in restaurants can depend and lean on. It is our comfort zone – a place and an organizational structure that makes sense and attempts to keep a lid on a long list of independent work before and during service. 

In the kitchen – work responsibilities are divided into oversight and action positions – the number depending on the scope of the restaurant menu and the size of the operation, but basically there are chefs, cooks, and support staff.  Each have specific duties and all have some shared responsibility.  The chef will likely be the most experienced culinarian with responsibility for the financial operation of the kitchen, menu planning, ordering and inventory control, training, and quality control.  He or she may not spend as much time cooking as a typical guest might think.  The cook is the action person – this is the individual who actually brings ingredients together, responds to customer requests, and prepares your plate of food.  The support staff members include those dishwashers, and cleaners who keep the ship afloat during the chaos of prep and assembly. 

The front of the house is typically separated into those who interface with guests directly and walk them through the ordering process to those who set the stage and support the work of the primary server.  This includes back waiters, bus personnel, and bartenders.  The strict alignment to table stations, training, development of a wine list that complements the food menu, and the smooth oversight of intense chaos so that it seems to be controlled rests on the shoulders of the dining room or restaurant manager.

Regardless of the restaurant type – this is a standard structure that anyone working in the business can expect and adapt to.

  • Independence in a manufacturing model that defies logic

To walk through a kitchen prior to service you will see a number of cooks and support staff going about their respective work with seemingly little connection to a master plan.  Each will have their own list of prep that relates to either a station or event and with rare exception they are allowed autonomy in how they approach the work.  Underneath the façade of independence lies a system that keeps all of this personal activity integrated into a bigger picture.  This may never become apparent until these same cooks are setting up their stations for finish work once the dining room doors open to the public.

  • A cluster of artists accepting control

Every seasoned cook struggles with controlling a desire to flex his or her artistic muscle and modify a dish to suit his or her style.  At the same time, each cook is fully aware that consistency and adherence to the standards of excellence that defines the restaurant must win in the long run.  A smart chef will provide opportunities for creative expression through nightly features and a cook’s input on the next wave of menus.  Any long-term attempt to keep artistic expression under wraps will result in constant replacement of cooks after frustrated ones leave for an operation with more freedom.

  • Chaos that leads to symphonic orchestration

There are two different kitchens, two different restaurants that might be observed by an interested guest.  The kitchen before service is alive with independent, sometimes stressful work scattered throughout the space.  Each cook is struggling against the clock to get his or her prep in order before setting a station for service.  Once service begins there will not be any time to take care of prep that was not completed in advance.  To view this, one would certainly use the word: chaos.

Once each line station is set for service, the mise en place is well appointed, the side towels are folded, pans stacked in the ready, menu reviewed, and ingredients are in place; once the orders start to tick off the printer and the expeditor raises his or her baton to signify the start of the nightly score – the chaos turns into a beautiful piece of music.  Cooks pivot and turn, pans ring as they hit the stove top, tongs click in rhythm, plates clang in unison as they are set in the pass for pick up, and cooks chime in with yes chef when directives are given by the expeditor.  You can put music to this dance that is very poetic and fluid.

  •      Improvisation that is kept in check

Although cooks will have a chance to express themselves through nightly features and an occasional pitch of an item for the next menu – when the restaurant doors are open on any given night – their job is to make sure that each dish is prepared consistently, looks and tastes the same, and follows the established design that the chef has put his or her stamp on.  There can be no deviation from the established norm.  Cooks know that “buy-in” to this game plan is essential if they hope to keep customers coming back time and again.

  • The chef who rarely cooks your food

This may be a shock to many guests, but the chef in your favorite restaurant is probably not the person who cooks your meal.  As previously mentioned each person has specific responsibilities and the chef’s are at a different level than those who finish the food you order.  It is, however, the chef who is responsible to train those cooks how to prepare the dishes that the restaurant puts its signature on.

  • A culture of family that defies logic

All of the typical highs and lows of being part of a family exist in a kitchen.  Team members know each other’s strengths and weaknesses and compensate accordingly.  They may be highly critical of each other, but don’t ever assume that someone outside of the “family” has the right to do the same.  When in trouble – the team will help a member of their group – without question.  There is a brotherhood or sisterhood that is just as real as if there was a biological connection between them. 

  • Service staff that have other careers

The majority of those restaurant servers that a guest connects with have other jobs – sometimes jobs that are their chosen careers – they just don’t pay enough, or they don’t provide the challenges and stressful excitement that comes from being a pleasant server, psychologist, counselor, and menu expert for those who fill dining room tables. 

  • A gathering place for castoffs and square pegs

The dynamic of the restaurant employee (especially in the kitchen) is flush with those who don’t fit in, are not inspired by typical 40 hour work weeks, find comfort in chaos, never flinch at cuts and burns, and do what they do out of a love for the art they produce and challenges that uncertainty brings every day.  Restaurant employees are part of a culture that doesn’t fit anywhere else.

  • Adrenaline junkies who are gluttons for punishment

When you step back and watch all of this, when you discover that cooks in particular live on the edge of disaster on any given day, when you see how they kick into gear when the job becomes impossible, and when you see them return the next day for a repeat of the same punishment, then you will begin to understand that the heat, the stress, the uncertainty, and the shear craziness of kitchen life is driven by the adrenaline rush.  Unless you have been there and felt it, you can’t understand.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting

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**Check in to CAFÉ Talks Podcast this Wednesday – November 18 for an interview with Chef Jeremiah Tower.

A LINE COOK’S MANIFESTO

02 Sunday Jul 2017

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Joe

What we believe is drawn from our life experiences, our history, our family and friends, our heritage, and what we do during our time on earth. That may sound a bit too philosophical, but it is based on reality. To a large degree, and maybe even larger than we admit – what we do in our work lives helps to define what we believe just as much as what we believe helps to define what we choose to do for work. For cooks this is certainly true, and very important to understand.

A manifesto is a written statement of what a person believes, the actions that he or she might take as a result, and justification for all of the above. Here are some beliefs that might come from a serious cook:

  1. COOKING, TRUE COOKING IS DEEPLY ROOTED IN MY HEART AND SOUL

To be a career cook is to dedicate your professional life to everything about food: the source of the ingredient and how the farmer/rancher/fisherman performs his or her craft, the methods of cooking, the flavors that are present and those that might be created, the right equipment and its care, those items that complement what you cook, and the experience of approaching every human sense with your skill set.

  1. A COOK’S HANDS TELL A STORY

There is no argument that a cook’s hands are as core to his or her success as is the ability to taste and savor. The hands guide the tools, assess freshness, determine degrees of doneness, skillfully assemble finished foods on a plate, and start the process all over again.

“His hands are miracles. I can watch them for hours, transforming wood (or food) into something it never dreamed of being.” 
― Katja Millay, The Sea of Tranquility

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  1. I COOK, THEREFORE I AM

It may seem challenging to state that cooking is so closely aligned to a persons identity and even value, but, as is the case with some other walks in life, cooking is to many – their purpose, the reason that they demonstrate to others that they are able to contribute in a significant way.

“Food’s my only bag. It’s my gig, my art, and my life. Always has been, always will be. I’m always battling myself – the part of me that says I can and the part of me that says I can’t. My greatest gift has been that the part of me that says “I can’t” is always, always just a little bit louder.” 
― Marcus Samuelsson, Yes, Chef

  1. MY COOK’S PALATE IS WHAT DEFINES MY REAL VALUE IN THE KITCHEN

Once you strip away all of the sizzle that comes from a restaurants’ ambience, the branding of the operations’ connection to the ingredient, the beautiful presentations on the plate, and the impeccable service that may be the calling card for a restaurant – it is the flavor and taste of each item that excites guests and brings them back. A cook’s palate including flavor memory, taste buds, and olfactory sense acuity will separate him or her from the cadre of others who wear the apron and toque.

“A good cook is the peculiar gift of the gods. He (or she) must be a perfect creature from the brain to the palate, from the palate to the finger’s end.”

-Walter Savage Landor

  1. MY KNIVES ARE AN EXTENSION OF MY HANDS

Of all the tools in a kitchen that are at a cook’s disposal it is the knife that truly demonstrates his or her ability to convert raw materials into a finished product. The best cooks are masters of control when it comes to directing the knife to its assigned task. A cook’s knives are to him or her as a Stratocaster was to Hendrix and Clapton – the instrument of his or her craft.

  1. THE SET UP OF MY COOK’S STATION IS SACRED AND MUST NOT BE MESSED WITH

Mise en place is the most common battle cry of the cook or chef. Making sure that there is enough of the right ingredients at hand, that a station is set in such a way that the cook need not even think about where to reach, and that this order is maintained throughout service, is the single most important step in ensuring a successful shift on the line. This is the cook’s personal domain and it is essential that it remain so. All cooks know not to mess with another’s mise.

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  1. AS A COOK I COMMUNICATE THROUGH THE FOOD THAT I PREPARE

If you want to know me, if you have a desire to assess my abilities, if it is important for you to enjoy a very important part of who I might be – then taste my food. This is how a cook communicates his or her being.

  1. BURNS AND CUTS ARE THE PRICE TO PAY FOR BEING A COOK

To those in other professions a cut or burn would signify a problem, maybe some level of failure, and certainly an event worthy of pause from their work routine. To a cook these burns and cuts signify his or her standing among peers. They are a battle cry and even a badge of honor. Until you are able to present the scars of the kitchen you will rarely find acceptance among other cooks.

  1. SWEAT IS A GOOD THING – IT SHOWS THAT I LABOR TO CREATE

Kitchens are hot! The raw heat generated from 500 degree ovens, 800 degree char broilers, and humidity that exists from simmering and boiling foods as well as an active dish machine would be, to some, unbearable. To a cook, this heat is almost welcome – it is the sweat that drips off of a cook’s brow and runs down his or her back that demonstrates the value of hard work.

“Don’t expect success to fall from the sky if it didn’t evaporate from the sweat of your hands.” 
― Matshona Dhliwayo

  1. THE PLATE IS MY CANVAS

All solid cooks are frustrated artists. They have an innate ability and desire to create but may not find an appropriate avenue through painting, sculpting, writing, or playing a musical instrument, but they are able to demonstrate their artistic ability through a plate of food. Unlike other art forms, this outlet allows the cook to appeal to all human senses, not just a few. Cook’s paint their art on a dinner plate every day.

  1. THE TEAM of COOKS, DISHWASHERS and SERVERS AROUND ME IS FAMILY

One of the most fantastic things about kitchen work is the amount of dependence that a cook has on each and every other person who works in the front or back-of-the-house. Trust is essential, understanding is required, patience is a virtue, pride in each other’s success a given, and support through their failures is commonplace in every successful kitchen. We are family.

  1. TIME IS NOT AN EXCUSE – I WILL MAKE IT HAPPEN

In the end, there are no excuses when the customer orders a dish and waits anxiously for its arrival. Insufficient mise, excessively busy nights, cooks and servers who call out or don’t show up, a cook under the weather, or faulty equipment does not matter. If you didn’t find the time to accomplish tasks before then you and your team will find a way to adjust in favor of the guest. No excuses!

“Either you run the day, or the day runs you.”

-Jim Rohn

  1. I RESPECT THE CHAIN OF COMMAND

Some may balk at “yes chef”, some may not particularly care for the chef or sous chef, and some may find a chef’s decisions in the moment to be incorrect, yet for the good of the needs of the kitchen, in the moment, cook’s know how important it is to respect the chain of command.

  1. BUTTER, BACON, SHALLOTS, GARLIC, SALT, PEPPER, AND MIREPOIX

When all else fails, a cook knows that butter, bacon, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper, and mirepoix will come to the rescue. A cook can create incredible dishes with the mastery of these ingredients.

There may certainly be other items to add to your cook’s manifesto – these are some of mine. This is partially what I believe as a cook. What do you believe in?

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

www.harvestamericaventures.com

**Photos:  Chef Joe Bonoparte at Myrtle Beach Culinary Institute, my hand, the line at Cochon- New Orleans.

24 HOURS IN A PROFESSIONAL LINE COOK’S LIFE

17 Friday Feb 2017

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Yes, the life of a cook is based on routine – a routine that may be different, but a routine never the less. What differs is the amount if time dedicated daily to the environment of the kitchen and the people who call it home. So, for a moment put yourself in the shoes of a typical, professional line cook and experience 24 hours.

[]         THE DAY BEGINS

It’s 9 a.m. and the alarm clock breaks the silence with a relentless sledgehammer ringing. The line cook takes a swipe and knocks the clock halfway across the room to bring the world back to silence. With crusty eyes, a pounding head, and aching muscles, the cook finally builds up enough strength to put one foot on the ground, and then another. Time to roll.

[]         THE STIMULANT OF CHOICE

Before a word is uttered, before a thought is made complete, and certainly before too many steps are taken, the cook puts a pod in the Keurig and brews that first cup of coffee. This will be the first of dozens today (many of which will be half consumed and lost somewhere in the kitchen). After a few sips, and a couple ibuprofen, the cook’s eyes begin to open fully and the challenges of the day ahead begin to come into focus. After another cup, a shower, and another ibuprofen chaser, this pirate is ready for the world.

[]         CATCH UP ON LIFE

There are still a couple hours before work begins so this is the short window for a line cook to take care of some normal life tasks – laundry, pick up a few supplies for the fridge, at least think about straightening the apartment, and deciding once again to defer on that trip to the gym – “Maybe tomorrow”.

[]         IT’S OFF TO WORK WE GO

12:30 finds the line cook walking the 15 blocks to the restaurant. His shift doesn’t officially start until 2, but this cook, like many others, knows that if he doesn’t get a jump on prep the evening service will be a trip through hell. “I’ll start early (off the clock) just to put my mind at ease.”

[]         IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR

Walking through the loading dock service door the line cook feels that usual knot in the stomach. He wonders what surprises the day will bring. Will anyone call out putting undo pressure on the rest of the line? Will all of the kitchen equipment work well? Will daily deliveries arrive on time? How many reservations are on the book? Most importantly – what will the chef’s mood be throughout the shift? It’s time to get his or her head in the game.

[]         PLANNING FIRST

Every cook knows that a successful night on the line depends on how well these first few minutes go. This is the only time when there will be an opportunity to think things through and plan for the known and the unknown. The first 15 minutes in the kitchen are consumed with walking through coolers, writing revised prep lists, checking equipment, discovering reservation patterns for the night, and double-checking the schedule to see who will be part of tonight’s team.

[]         MISE EN PLACE

Without a doubt, mise en place ALWAYS saves the day. To some, MISE is focused on enough prep to make it through service, but a professional line cook knows that it goes way beyond supplies. MISE refers to the organization of work, the prioritization of this pre-service prep list, setting up the station like a pilot familiarizes himself with the cockpit. Pans must be in a certain spot, back-ups labeled and positioned, side towels folded a certain way, pinch pot of salt and pepper in place, and a full mental review of the menu – even though a cook has worked with it for the past 6 weeks.

[]         SWEAT THE DETAILS

The professional line cook knows that it’s the small stuff that wins the battle. Every “i” must be dotted and “t” crossed. The cook must be able to reach for anything on his or her station without looking. Extra steps or searching for essential ingredients could mean that the system will collapse.

[]         PRE-MEAL

It’s 4:45 p.m. – staff meal is out and the line cook is cramming a few bites in while continuing to work. In a few minutes the chef will check station to ensure that everyone is ready. Just a few more minutes of chopping fresh herbs and finishing sauces with monte au beurre and this cook will be ready to roll. At 5:00 the chef will review the nights features with service staff and talk about recommended wine pairings while line cooks wipe down their stations, set-up sanitation buckets, hydrate with pitchers of ice water and pound down a few last minute espressos. Bring it on!

[]         GAME FACE

To some it is a look of intensity, maybe even that battle look as you might find on the face of a defensive lineman, while to others it is a look of trepidation mixed with anxiety – the proverbial “deer in the headlights” look. Every line cook experiences it, every night, in every restaurant. Sure, it might be masked with a bit of swagger, a few light-hearted jokes, the snapping of cook’s tongs, and a smile – but inside every cook is mentally running through everything that could go wrong.

[]         THE PUSH

As is the case with most restaurants, the night begins with a slow steady trickle of early diners, but by the time 7 p.m. arrives the dining room is full and the board is taxed with an endless stream of dupes. This is what the line cook prepared for, this is what gives him or her that buzz when adrenaline kicks in, this is what tests his or her ability to function at peak efficiency while working together as a member of the kitchen SWAT team. When the cooks are on their game this is a beautiful thing to watch – poetry in motion. This is why cooks arrive early and work with a high level of purpose and efficiency. This is the game and cooks are ready to play.

[]         ON THE EDGE

There will be times throughout service when things seem to be on the precipice – the chance of meltdown is just as great as the opportunity to succeed. Cooks may need that extra bit of confidence and push from the chef or the expeditor to get over the hump, but they know that if their mise is tight, they can work through it together.

[]         THAT WINNING FEELING

There comes a time during service, usually right at the tail end of that push window when a line cook knows that things are going well. There is chemistry on the line and even a feeling of camaraderie with the service staff. Guests are happy, the chef is happy, and the food looks great in the pass. It is at this moment that a line cook senses that this is his or her destiny. This job is his or her purpose – what is in the cards for them. This is what he or she is really good at.

[]         POST MEAL – TAKING INVENTORY

As the shift starts to wind down it is time for every cook to take stock. First – take a moment to review what went right or wrong and strategize on how to repeat that effort or make an adjustment tomorrow. Next, taking inventory means to look through mise en place and start that list for tomorrow when it starts all over again.

[]         BREAKDOWN

Putting the kitchen back in order is never left for the night cleaning crew. Line cooks scrub equipment, polish stainless steel, properly chill, label and date leftovers, and roll up floor mats for the dish crew to run through the machine at the end of their night. When the lights are flicked off the kitchen goes to rest, but does so with a sparkle that is welcoming in a few hours to the morning crew.

[]         THE NIGHT IS OVER – RIGHT?

The clock strikes midnight as cooks change into street clothes and even though they know that going home would be the wise thing to do; they all agree to stop in at their favorite bar for a celebratory drink. Unfortunately, as is the case on most nights, when they belly up to the bar and see their coworkers do the same, one drink leads to another, and another. The feeling is always ‘ “We deserve it”. Good, bad, or indifferent, this is the social nature of the business. Some can participate and stay in control, while others quickly fall prey to the master in a bottle. This is one of the real challenges that a cook will face.

[]         WONDERING WHY

As the cook manages the stairs up to his or her apartment sometime past closing, looks in a mirror and peels off those clothes that still carry the smells of the kitchen, he or she wonders again why he or she continues to inflict this level of punishment. “There must be a better way to make a living”.

[]         WHAT GOES AROUND, COMES AROUND

After what seems like just a few moments of blissful sleep, it is 9 a.m. and the alarm clock shouts out: “Time to start all over again.” Welcome to the routine of the line cook.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

THE FOUR TYPES OF COOKS – WHERE DO YOU FIT?

01 Thursday Sep 2016

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We work – this is what people were meant to do, this is what helps to give us purpose, this is what shapes, to a large degree, the person that we are. How we approach this work, the type of work that we choose or that chooses us, and the level of satisfaction that we gain from what we do is very much dependent on how seriously we take the process of making a career choice. Some may say that choosing what we do is the exception to the rule, that to many people work is work – a means to an end, a necessary process that allows us all to survive – to get by. I would respectfully disagree and choose to take the more optimistic approach and say that everyone can make a choice, a choice that will allow an individual to survive financially, but even more importantly – to find a purpose. Is this a bit altruistic? Maybe so, but it is how I choose to look at life. Where there is a will there is a way – every person (I believe) has a role to play, a direction that allows he or she to feel fulfilled and significant.

From my experience, keeping the aforementioned approach to life close at hand, there are four types of cooks working in restaurants today. Everyone fits into one of these categories and I believe that they are there by choice. I would suggest that if you are currently working in a professional kitchen that you ask yourself the question – in which category do I fit? It is an exercise that will help you to answer many questions, set aside some concerns, and build a case for where you go next.

[]         CATEGORY #1:          I SHOW UP

I am not portraying these cooks in a negative way. There is a need and a place for employees who show up physically, do what they are told to do, avoid making decisions on their own, do not question what is needed, arrive at the exact start of their shift and leave physically and mentally the moment their shift is over. The critical distinction here is that they show up. If you are a chef or an owner you know how valuable this trait is.

“Showing up is 80% of life.”

-Woody Allen

[]         CATEGORY #2:          IT’S A LIVING

This category continues to baffle me. I am sure that individuals working to make a living are common in most professions, but I fail to understand how anyone can thrive under these conditions. “Making a living” is hard to swallow for those who are seeking to find purpose and as such fails to set the stage for personal motivation. Those cooks who view their kitchen job as “making a living” typically miss the big picture enthusiasm for food, an appreciation for how food is grown, the joy of preparing a perfectly balanced dish, and the pride in being creative. Certainly making enough money to live comfortably is and should be a goal for anyone, but on its own, this is a shallow approach towards a life of fulfillment.

“We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.”

-Winston Churchill

Cooks who have found their purpose in kitchen life know that the joy of cooking is the joy of giving through personal expression, the joy of giving to those who consume the products they make, and the joy of participating in kitchen team dynamics in the process of serving the public.

[]         CATEGORY #3:          THIS IS WHAT I ENJOY

Yes, these are the cooks who thoroughly enjoy their time in the kitchen and the type of work that they do. They find real pleasure in working with the intense, and sometimes-borderline crazy people who deliver, prepare, and serve the food that makes a restaurant truly hum. They may or may not be immersed in the culture of food, the need to understand the why of cooking or even the source of ingredients, but they do get pumped up over the adrenaline of working in the kitchen pressure cooker. To these cooks, working is fun and their time in the kitchen goes way beyond making a living – they are anxious to participate in the lifestyle. These are the individuals (sometimes pirates) who are bouncing on their toes in anticipation of the flood of tickets streaming off the kitchen printer, they give high fives when they exceed projected covers on a shift, and carry on their celebration of accomplishment after hours with their friends who share the same intense passion for the heat of the kitchen. The chef knows that these individuals will be there tomorrow and every day afterward – they thrive on the adrenaline.

“You were not meant for a mundane or mediocre life!” 
― Steve Maraboli, Life, the Truth, and Being Free

[]         CATEGORY #4:          THIS IS MY CALLING

Cooks who have determined that the kitchen is their purpose in life are in a category all to themselves. They are totally immersed in everything about the process of cooking, the ingredients that they work with, the history of the profession, the process of building a sophisticated palate, and the pride of an honored profession. These cooks live to be in the kitchen, spend many extra hours on the job and off the clock, invest their hard earned money in tools, books, and saving for an extraordinary meal at one of those “bucket list” restaurants, refuse to take a real vacation unless it involves spending time in another kitchen, a farm, or a vineyard, and take those extra minutes every day to make sure that their uniform is pristine and representative of the great chefs who came before them. These cooks are serious about what they do and view their jobs as an extension of their personal identity. Every kitchen needs at least one, although too many of them can drive everyone else to drink. These are the cooks who know full well that they will be a chef some day, command an important kitchen, and/or own their personal restaurant with their name on the marquee. We read about them in culinary magazines, purchase their coffee table cookbooks, salivate about one day dining in their restaurant(s), and know their bios by heart.

So, which type of cook are you? Each cook has a place in today’s kitchen; each represents a different mindset and chooses the path they are on. Some will stay in the business while others will always be looking for a way out. A few will inspire others to take the path of a kitchen career while others will inadvertently turn young people away. They are the industry that we are a part of and they make it what it is. Each to his or her own, they are the person that they are either because of or in spite of the kitchen where they punch in and tie on an apron.

**The picture is of my team at the Mirror Lake Inn – Lake Placid, NY –  in 2006.  A great group that I still consider an honor to have worked with.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

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THE HEAT OF THE KITCHEN

18 Thursday Aug 2016

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It’s August and the latest data points to July (last month) as the hottest on record for the United States. Think about that – it has never been hotter than this since records have been kept! While others may think about those lazy summer days with toes in the beach sand; an iced tea, gin and tonic, or beer in hand; that occasional dip in the pool or the ocean, and a chance to work on a tan – cooks, chefs, and service staff in the more than 1 million U.S. restaurants are in pain.

“The thing with heat is, no matter how cold you are, no matter how much you need warmth, it always, eventually, becomes too much.” 

― Victoria Aveyard, Glass Sword

What is so interesting about heat is the numerous ways that it can be viewed and interpreted. Heat is both friend and foe; it is the bane of our existence and the reason for our very being as a cook. Heat is representative of everything that the restaurant industry is about. Some may simply say: “It’s going to be hot today”, but few really know what “It’s hot” really means. We might measure heat in terms of temperature in Fahrenheit or Celsius, but rarely do we look at the far-reaching meanings of what heat represents to a cook.

As a nod of understanding and appreciation for my friends, prior co-workers, and everyone else who works in a restaurant – here is a more in-depth review of kitchen heat.

IT’S HOT!!

[]         AMBIENT HEAT

When it’s hot outside, it’s hot in the kitchen. Kitchens are not typically air-conditioned – so there is no relief as there might be for other professions. Cooks do not enter the kitchen to cool off – there is no positive temperature transition except when we gladly pass into a walk-in cooler to graze for ingredients. When others refer to sweltering summer heat – cooks talk in terms of the ambient temperature being “tight or still”, it’s like a vise around your body that keeps tightening.

[]         HUMIDITY

Humidity outside cannot compare to kitchen humidity. We even go out of our way to add additional humidity to the environment we work in. The dish machine, stock pots, and simmering sauce work add so much humidity to a kitchen that it feels like it might rain – inside! Cooks sweat through their uniform within minutes of entering the kitchen. We only need to worry when we stop sweating because that means that we have not hydrated sufficiently and there is nothing left in those pores.

[]         THE HEAT OF TEMPERAMENT

Some of the heat in a kitchen is not measured in degrees of temperature, but rather in nuances of temperament. When people are that hot, their nerves are on edge, and small issues can bring out the worst reactions from people. All of the effort at creating a positive work environment is forgotten as cooks and servers lash out over the smallest detail: “Who the hell moved my side towels?”

[]         THE HEAT OF STRESS

Everyone feels stress at various times in his or her lives. “Stress free” is not very realistic – in fact, a small amount of stress may actually help us to perform better and even enjoy what we do. The stress of the kitchen is ever-present and comes at cooks from every possible direction. There is the stress of being prepared for the start of service: “Is my mise en place tight enough”; the stress from the chef who expects that the quality of your cooking will meet his or her expectations; the stress from not wanting to let your teammates down (one weak link on the kitchen line can bring the entire team to their knees during service); and the relentless stress from the sound of tickets clicking off the printer, servers asking for the status of an order, the errant “order-fire” that pushes a table in front of others already in the works, and the barking of “ordering” and “fire” commands from the expeditor. This, compounded with the need to remember preparations and keep a few dozen “in progress” preparations cataloged in your brain makes the heat of stress a real monster to deal with. Sometimes that sweat on a cook’s brow is not from temperature, but rather from the mental and emotional stress of the job.

[]         THE HEAT OF THE LINE

On top of ambient heat is the raging heat of working over ranges, char-grills and ovens cranked up as high as they can go, the chef’s table billowing out steam that keeps sauces and sides hot for plating, the plate warmers glowing cherry red, and the added heat of proteins dripping their internal fat onto super hot coals or ceramics, creating lapping flames that singe eyebrows and spit out super heated dancing specks of hot oil, clarified butter, and rendered fat. It is the visual image of Dante’s Inferno.

[]         WHEN HEAT HURTS

After years of kitchen work, many cooks and chefs develop asbestos hands. It is sometimes hard to distinguish fingerprints on a cook since their fingertips and palms are shinny with the glaze of heat calluses. Most cooks’ carry dozens of burn scars that trail up their arms. As much as these appendages seem to be hammered like seasoned steel, it still hurts like hell when a cook inadvertently grabs a super heated sauté pan handle, is the recipient of a burst bubble of fat from the deep fryer, or gets in the way of a steak sizzle platter direct from a 600 degree oven.

[]         FIRE AND COOKING

When the cook is in control of heat, the results can be incredibly positive. Cooking involves, after all, the application of heat. Cooks have a love affair with fire and learn, over a period of time, how to control it to yield a certain result. A seasoned grill person knows how to control fire to properly sear a steak or a chop, impart those inspiring grill marks, and caramelize the protein resulting in exceptional flavor. The person on sauté is fully aware of the difference between gentle sauté and pan-frying and knows which dish requires which application. The person on fried foods learns to be adept at finding that right temperature point in the fat to properly brown the product while still making sure that it is cooked to perfection inside.

[]         THE HEAT OF FLAVORS

It is that caramelization or “Maillard” process that allows heat and fire to coax out the umami characteristics of a dishes flavor profile. Without understanding this and learning how to control the impact of fire and heat on a portion of food, the cook will never be able to build the necessary flavors to make a dish – great.

[]         THE HEAT OF PASSION

There is also an inevitable heat that takes place in kitchens and restaurants – it is the heat of passion. There is never a lack of short-term romances that occur in restaurants. When people work this closely, depend on each other to survive another service, interact in such a stressful and physical environment, and do so over one of the most beautiful things in life (great food), there will always be those sparks of romantic interest. This adds to the heat of the environment and can sometimes be the real demise of a kitchen team – even more so than the other types of heat that we are discussing.

[]         THE HEAT OF BUSINESS FAILURE/SUCCESS

It was Abraham Maslow who said that the first two steps on the ladder of human need are survival and security. Cooks, chefs, servers, and managers are well aware that the restaurant business is one of a fine line between success and failure. Every guest is critical in that quest for business survival and each employee can contribute to that survival. Failure to attract enough guests, who spend enough money, and who are happy enough to return, will leave every employee clamoring to find employment elsewhere. This reality hangs over everyone’s head, every day.

[]         THE HEAT OF GUEST INTERACTION

Finally, although the vast majority of restaurant guests are reasonable, nice, grateful recipients of the food you prepare, there is a percentage that are the polar opposite. Everyone in the restaurant feels the heat of his or her discontent, occasional arrogance, and biting anger. This is a heat that can leave longer lasting scars on service staff, in particular, that trickles down through the operation.

Some say: “If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen” (Harry Truman), but I wonder how many of those folks have ever experienced a shift in a busy kitchen, in the middle of August.

To every cook suffering through this summer – keep the faith, winter is around the corner. In the meantime – hydrate, hydrate, and hydrate.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

Restaurant Consulting and Training

**Photograph compliments of Chef Curtiss Hemm – Pink Ribbon Cooking

READ ABOUT STORIES OF KITCHEN LIFE – Order your copy of Chef Paul Sorgule’s latest novel: “The Event That Changed Everything” by clicking on the following link to amazon.com:

www.amazon.com/Event-That-Changed-Everything-Relationships/dp/1491755105/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471525501&sr=8-1&keywords=The+Event+That+Changed+Everything

LINE COOKS ARE AS CRUSTY AS A PIRATE

25 Wednesday May 2016

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It has been said that you can’t judge a book by looking at the cover – yet we do. This may never be more truthful than when you observe a crew of line cooks ready for battle. Well seasoned, hardened through time in the trenches, often tattooed with expression of their beliefs or accepted lot in life, full of pride and confidence (at least on the surface), and ready – always ready for that onslaught of relentless tickets once the restaurant doors open – this is the image of a typical line cook.

The best ones, the ones who have hung their hat on the line for many years, have been through it all. There are impossible shifts when demand exceeds supply, when Murphy’s Law applies (if something can go wrong it will), when they are down a cook, the hood fan is not working to capacity and ambient temperatures rise to well over 120 degrees; when their hands are throbbing from those impossible finger cuts that won’t stop bleeding, and there are blisters on top of their blisters with no possibility of healing in the near future. This is very common in kitchens – it is the life of a line cook.

“Yes, we can be hard at times, but we are very sensitive underneath. We can receive 99 rave reviews, but it is the one unhappy guest who keeps us up at night. This is the way we are. Food and a person’s reaction to how we prepare it means everything. It is more than our job, it is our life.”

-Sorgule

On the surface, line cooks are oftentimes viewed as that crusty pirate without a care in the world, unwilling to listen to others, moving to the beat of his or her own drum, and full of swagger from an inflated ego. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth. This is the persona that allows a cook to get through a shift – a shift that is filled with impossible deadlines, random critique from anyone and everyone, ripe with a desire to be creative and make great food, and complete with a stress level that is compounded by the often unpredictable nature of business volume and customer needs. Being crusty is a defense mechanism, and method used to disguise the angst, fear, uncertainty, and insecurity that comes from working in this environment day in and day out.

The chef may also seem to be an impossible, over-confident tyrant who takes pleasure in being in control and pushing line cooks beyond their limit. In fact, the best chefs are protectors of kitchen balance, guides through the jungle of a busy night, advocates for each cooks reputation, craftsmen protecting the integrity of the food that carries his or her name, and psychologists who walk the fine line of prodding cooks to be their best and pushing them over the edge. Even the occasional raised voice, when managed correctly, is a trigger that helps line cooks through the most difficult and impossible situations. Every night brings a new challenge and the chef, like a seasoned coach, is the voice that will carry everyone through the most perfect storm.

To understand these self-proclaimed pirates, we need to look below the surface. It is important to peel away the layers of crust to find the real person inside, discover what makes them tick, and learn how to work with these unique individuals. Just like an onion, there are many layers to a cook that need to be peeled back. Once you do, this is what you will likely find:

[]         A CARING INDIVIDUAL

Nearly every line cook that I have had the pleasure to work with is a person who cares about others and is more than willing to help those around him or her. A line cook will easily give more than he or she has if a person is in need. Beyond the crust, this is the line cook that I know.

[]         AN ARTIST LOOKING FOR AN OUTLET

People become cooks for many reasons – sometimes because that is what was available to them, but more often than not it is because this career provides them with an outlet for personal expression. At the end of any shift they have something to show for their work. It might just be mise en place for another shift, or it could be a beautifully presented, full-flavored dish that they were able to execute as planned. For certain individuals, it is this avenue for making something, for creating physical value that floats their boat.

[]         AN INCREDIBLY SHARP TACTICIAN

Make no mistake – being a successful line cook is a combination of cooking talent, math, science, problem solving, and most importantly – game theory type planning. Every day is a chess match – trying to anticipate what guests will order, how orders will pace, and what potential curve balls might be thrown their way. Without the ability to tactically plan out a shift strategy – the line cook will be lost.

[]         A DEDICATED CRAFTSPERSON

It riles me to see how some restaurants advertise for line cook positions. Far too often, cooks are viewed as replaceable pawns on the chess board who are simply technicians following a list of procedural steps. Of course, this attitude is evident in the lack of quality or consistency in the food they serve. Professional line cooks are highly skilled craftspeople who apply all of the aforementioned skills including a well developed palate and the ability to make adjustments in food preparation to achieve an expected goal when variables come into play. Line cooks are competent professionals and should be treated as such.

[]         AN INDIVIDUAL LOOKING TO BELONG

On the sensitive side, once those layers are peeled back, you will find that line cooks have a real desire to be part of a team, a team with a common goal of creating exceptional food and practicing well developed skills in the process. Line cooks gain real satisfaction from working with others who share their passion.

[]         A PERSON IN COMPETITION WITH HIM OR HERSELF

Great line cooks do not seek to compete with teammates, but rather only see the need to compete with themselves. If they need to improve, then their ability to do so will be the most important task at hand. If they did a great job tonight, then they will seek out ways to be even better tomorrow. Self-criticism is that constant driver that pushes a line cook further and further.

[]         A SELF CRITICAL ARTISAN

There is little need for a chef or even a guest to point out a mistake that a cook made. Trust me, when a great line cook makes a mistake, he or she is a self-proclaimed worst critic. These mistakes eat away at them until the cook figures out a way to improve.

[]         AN INTROVERT IN AN EXTROVERT’S SKIN

Crusty, bold, vocal, and sometimes antagonistic – this is the exterior view of that line cook. He or she may seem to be the life of the party and a person of extreme confidence. Underneath it all, many line cooks are great actors – deep inside they lack self-confidence, are shy, and unable to maintain that “life of the party” facade.

[]         A PERSON WHO CRAVES ORGANIZATION

The term mise en place doesn’t only apply to a cook’s workstation. Cooks respond well to order on the job because it allows them to function, survive, and even thrive. Line cooks tend to seek out environments that create the need and opportunity to organize their daily routine.

[]         A PERSON WITH A DESIRE TO BE LED

Some line cooks aspire to that position of chef, but the majority are great followers by nature. Even when they complain about it, the comfort of leadership allows the line cook to exhibit his or her best traits.

[]        A RELENTLESS PRODUCTION MACHINE

From the restaurants’ perspective, it is the line cook that allows the operation to be successful. Knowing that whatever is thrown at them, line cooks will rise to the occasion, allowing the restaurant ownership to concentrate on building the business and attracting more and more happy customers. Line cooks are the engines that allow the restaurant to move forward.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC
Restaurant and Culinary School Consulting and Training

INTERESTED IN MORE INFORMATION ABOUT CHEFS, LINE COOKS, RESTAURANTS, AND THE WORLD THAT THEY LIVE IN?  Order your copy of “The Event That Changed Everything” through amazon today!

GIVING THANKS FOR A LIFE IN THE KITCHEN

20 Sunday Dec 2015

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Like many in our industry, my first job was washing dishes at a diner. I was fifteen years old and eager to earn a paycheck, regardless of the job. Fifty years later, I am still actively involved in the food industry and proud to say so. Certainly, there were times when I gave fleeting thought to doing something different, but for the most part this has been a true labor of love. How many people can say that about the career that they chose or that chose them?

So what is it about this business that people write about, read about, lust over, admire and sometimes hate, aspire to as a mid-life crisis career change, and make tragically inaccurate reality shows about? Is it the total commitment that has been the standard expected of all who walk through those kitchen doors, or maybe the well-documented family sacrifices that chefs have made since the position was formalized during the days of Escoffier and Pointe? Maybe, those who made it their life centric focus need to justify these sacrifices, or maybe those on the outside looking in find this commitment so crazy and intriguing that writing about these abnormal people is easy and exciting. Whatever the reason, my circle of friends and acquaintances seem to gush about this choice of career.

My take on it is strictly personal. I can’t completely speak for others, although I can relay some interesting takes based on a lifetime of conversations, observations, and side-by-side work experiences. So, here it is – why I (and many others) give thanks for a life in the kitchen (“They” refers to those who I worked for, and those with whom I worked):

[]         THEY HIRED ME

There is something magical about that first job. The opportunity to learn a skill, feel needed by others, interact with the wonderful and crazy people who work in a kitchen, and earn a paycheck is one of those major steps in a person’s life. I won’t say that I loved washing dishes and diving for pearls, but I did thoroughly enjoy working in the kitchen environment and have always respected those who washed dishes in every kitchen I worked.

[]         THEY TAUGHT ME ABOUT DEPENDABILITY

One of my many obsessions, as a result of my life in the kitchen, is my insistence on being where I need to be and arriving very early. Whether it is work, meetings, family gatherings, or a pending airline connection, you can depend on me being there.

[]         THEY TAUGHT ME HOW TO WORK HARD

If you are not tired from work at the end of the day then you haven’t put forth enough effort. Working hard is a given in kitchen operations.

[]         THEY TAUGHT ME HOW TO CREATE

Where else does an individual have an opportunity to create something tangible every day and receive immediate feedback from those who consume his or her efforts?

[]         THEY DEMONSTRATED THAT WE ARE ALL EQUAL

When everyone has a task which impacts on the performance of everyone else it becomes necessary to put aside any pre-conceived ideas about people and learn how to appreciate their contribution. Bias and inequality have never had a place in the kitchen (although the period of orientation and informal probation for new members of the team can be brutal).

[]         THEY TAUGHT ME ABOUT RESPECT

I learned to respect the chain of command (essential in every functional kitchen), respect the equipment that I worked with (especially the dangers associated with that equipment when not handled properly), respect the ingredients that I work with (know how hard the farmer, fisherman, and cattle rancher works to provide you with great raw materials), respect the people I work with (mutual respect equates to a system designed to achieve results), and respect the customer (the person who pays our salary and keeps the restaurant moving forward).

[]         THEY OPENED THE DOOR TO POSSIBILITIES

I discovered that the only thing that could get in the way of my professional vision was an unwillingness to give it a shot. I became a chef, a manager, was privileged to enter and do quite well in culinary competitions, worked with extraordinary cooks and chefs, took on important roles with the American Culinary Federation, earned a bachelor’s and master’s degree, traveled to many parts of the world, and even authored books about life in the kitchen. Without that first job as a dishwasher, none of this would have occurred.

[]         THEY DEMONSTRATED THAT ENTREPRENEURSHIP CAN HAPPEN      WITHOUT OWNING ANYTHING

Every restaurant where I have worked felt like my restaurant, I still consider every kitchen where I served as chef to be my kitchen, and every culinary school where I have been employed was treated as if my family reputation was connected, I have been an entrepreneur with sweat equity and no financial investment.

[]         THEY SHOWED ME HOW TO WORK AS A TEAM

The joys of knowing that “All for one and one for all” is the rule of the kitchen can never be over valued. It may have felt like my kitchen, but it also felt like everyone else’ as well.

[]         THEY DEMONSTRATED THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THINGS

I continue to pride myself in knowing and sticking to many of the foundations of cooking and kitchen operation that have been proven to work over decades. There is always room to customize and put a chef’s signature on a dish or a kitchen, but in the background every chef knows that there is a right way to do so many things in a kitchen.

[]         THEY SHOWED ME THAT ORGANIZATION IS CRITICAL IN             EVERYTHING THAT I DO

Some may view this as an example of OCD, but the habits formed in a kitchen carry over to every day life. I still fold towels; load a dishwasher a certain way, and type a list of tasks for the day whether in the kitchen, or at home.

[]         THEY TAUGHT ME A GREAT DEAL ABOUT PEOPLE

If there were one aspect of kitchen life that I am most grateful for, it would be the chance to meet and interact with some of the most interesting, dedicated, hard working, fun loving people imaginable. I learned how to read them and appreciate their differences.

[]         THEY SHOWED ME HOW TO HAVE FUN AT WORK

Cooks and chefs work hard and play hard. They can be extremely serious one moment and break into uncontrollable laughter the next.

[]         THEY EXPECTED ME TO SIGN MY WORK

One of the questions that I always pose to myself and in turn to others is, “Would you sign your work?” Regardless of what you are working on, in the kitchen or elsewhere, there is always room to do it right. This is your signature – take pride in what you do.

[]         THEY INTRODUCED ME TO THE BROTHERHOOD AND SISTERHOOD OF THE PROFESSIONAL COOK

Every cook or chef that I know is part of that unofficial club that means an open door, a nod of agreement, and a welcoming smile. What a great club to belong to.

[]         THEY EXPANDED MY PALATE

I love food and drink and because I have been privileged to work in kitchens, I can claim a fairly diverse and open-minded palate. There are very few foods that I will not try.

[]         THEY PROVIDED A FOCUS FOR WHAT I READ, WHERE I TRAVEL, AND HOW FOOD CONNECTS EVERYTHING

I am anxious to learn more and read, travel, and interact with food people and places where food is at the core of existence. My bucket list is quite extensive.

[]         THEY HELPED TO BUILD MY PHILOSOPHICAL APPROACH TOWARDS EVERYTHING

I am an advocate for the farmer, the integrity of the food supply, the importance of breaking bread, the impact of nutrition on a healthy body, the significance of cooking at home to every family, and the role that restaurants play in civilization.

[]        THEY HELPED ME TO REALIZE THAT WHAT I DO IS MEANINGFUL AND IMPORTANT

I raise my head high when people ask me what I do for a living. Those of us in the food business help people to stay healthy, we make them smile, reward them, and provide opportunities for them to clink glasses and share the experiences that only food can provide.

I feel very fortunate.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

www.harvestamericaventures.com

 

COMING OF AGE IN A RESTAURANT KITCHEN

13 Friday Feb 2015

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Where and when were you first introduced to the world of work and a snapshot of what your future might bring? Well, if you are like one-third of the American population, then this start was in some type of restaurant. Yes, one out of three working Americans secured their first job in a restaurant. Today, there are over 13 million people in the U.S., earning a paycheck in a foodservice outlet. An even more significant statistic points to 80% of all current restaurant owners who started out at an entry-level position in a restaurant. The American dream is alive and well in this business that many of us call home away from home.

An ever-growing part of the population “came of age” in a dish pit, on the line, busing tables, pitching menu items to guests, making stock, or pulling fresh bread from the oven. This “coming of age” continues to provide valuable lessons and tools for anyone starting on that road to the working life.

What is your story? Mine, like so many, began washing dishes, helping the short order cook with prep, moping floors, putting away stock from vendors, chopping and dicing, and making connections with some of the most interesting and honest people that I will ever know. I learned many lessons while standing on quarry tile floors, pushing a tray of dishes through the Hobart, and eventually rising to a position of significance on the line. These lessons shaped my career and my life, just as it has and will continue to do, for millions of others every year. Here are the lessons that I have learned:

  • DEPENDABILITY: You quickly learn that your job, not matter what the title, is important in a kitchen. You depend on others to be able to perform your tasks and they depend on you. This is why so many cooks insist on working through their aches and pains, showing up to work when many in other professions would simply call out.
  • STRUCTURE: You learn that kitchens can only function effectively if everyone follows the established standard operating procedures. Mise en place is structure, production sheets are structure, banquet orders are structure, recipes and formulas are structure, the way that orders on the line are called out is structure, and the layout of plates for specific menu items is structure. This is how a kitchen functions and those who are disciples of the environment keep those methods of structure throughout their lives.
  • CLEAN AS YOU GO: Messy and dirty have no place in a kitchen workers life. The job of maintaining a high-level of cleanliness is not only the law of the land; it is what makes everything work. Even during the busiest of times, cooks learn to keep up with this responsibility.
  • CONCENTRATION: Cooks discover that regardless of what else is going on in their physical, emotional, or mental environments, when they are involved in a cooking task, their full attention is required. A lack of concentration will result in cuts and burns (or worse), improperly cooked or burnt food, and sloppy plating of the dishes that carry the restaurants signature.
  • PRIDE: This may be one of the “deadly sins”, however, in the kitchen, it is this pride that drives cooks to spend those extra few moments to make sure a dish is meticulously prepared and presented.
  • COMMITMENT: Cooks understand that to be good, to be great, at what they do requires a level of dedication and commitment to building their base of food knowledge, practice their skills, and constantly improve.
  • VALUE EXCHANGE: At times cooks may scorn those who can afford to pay extravagant amounts of money for food and wine in some restaurants, but at the same time they learn to appreciate how important it is to ensure that every dish they prepare, looks and tastes proportionate to the money spent. This also applies to dishes that are sold for more reasonable amounts of money – value must be at the forefront of their thought process and actions.
  • CARE FOR TOOLS: We are able to perform our tasks in a consistent manner with the assistance of the tools at our disposal. Without those tools in peak condition, our jobs become difficult, if not impossible. Cooks learn how important it is to maintain knives, pots and pans, small and large equipment, even the side towels, aprons, and shoes that they wear.
  • SAFETY: Equipment does not harm a cook; it is the haphazard use of that equipment that results in accidents. Bending before picking up heavy equipment, unplugging equipment before cleaning, closing doors after use, knocking on cooler doors before exiting, keeping floors mopped and dry, ensuring that pilot lights are lit, etc. These are critical responsibilities.
  • ORGANIZATION: Cooks learn and know how essential it is to be organized. Everything should be returned to its designated location, every product on the line has its place, tickets are placed on the rail in a specific manner to respect communication, and the list goes on and on.
  • RESPECT FOR OTHERS: Everyone learns that in the kitchen, everyone is equal. Each person deserves respect for what he or she does, the role that they play, and this, in turn, becomes the great equalizer. Age, size, race, ethnic background, beliefs, gender, etc. do not matter – it is the task at hand that unifies everyone.
  • WORK ETHIC: Cooks learn to be busy, stay busy, hustle, give 100% and more when needed, and do so each and every day. A good days work, for a good days pay.
  • PASSION AND EFFORT = RESULTS: Enjoying what you do in a kitchen and investing that strong work ethic will result in success. This is one of life’s great lessons. You get what you put into it. Successful businesses of all types understand this – kitchens practice it.
  • COMMUNICATION: Sharing information, listening more and talking less, writing things down – making your lists, following the chain of command, taking care to act and not react with your communications; these are lessons learned in a professional kitchen.
  • THE ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT: Cooks build an understanding and appreciation for the process of ownership. They own the quality of their work, they own the power of positive relationships, and they own the experience that each and every restaurant guest has. This ownership experience is why so many entry-level restaurant employees eventually end up as business owners. The spirit of entrepreneurship is evident from the first day on the job.

balsams

The kitchen is a remarkable environment for coming of age. It is a place where habits are built for life, where the value of relationships among team members is born, and a place where life direction and character is built. I know I feel fortunate to have taken this path.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com

“I’M NOT READY”, A LINE COOKS GREATEST FEAR

02 Tuesday Sep 2014

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It’s 20 minutes before the first reservation arrives and John the line cook knows that his mise en place is not tight. In a few minutes the chef will be walking the line checking to see that everything is in order. He will taste sauces, review specials and ask a series of questions of each line cook. Sara, who is working grill tonight, is ready. She just exudes confidence, always checking and double-checking everything from portioned steaks and chops to compound butters, fresh herbs, dry rubs, and stocks. Her char-grill is fired up and wire brushed, finishing oven cranked up to 500 degrees, sizzle platters cleaned and counted out, side towels folded, extra tongs in place and a fresh sanitizing bucket in the ready. John, on the other hand is sweating bullets.

It started from the moment John walked into work 15 minutes late. The chef has little tolerance for his staff members not arriving at least 15 minutes early. Time is precious and if you start off behind, you stay behind all night. The chef didn’t waste time chewing John out, he simply gave him that look of disappointment. John knew the pressure was on.

For a line cook, there are few things that feel worse than knowing that you have put yourself in a difficult position and that your lack of organization and punctuality will impact the entire team at some point. No matter how hard you try, from the minute you realize the potential problems, it only gets worse. John was physically shaking and had an uneasy feeling in his stomach as he tried to wash the inevitable from his mind and concentrate on the work ahead.

Those who have never worked on the line will have a difficult time understanding what lies ahead for John. The work for today really began at closing last night. Organizing, labeling and dating what could be salvaged from the previous nights closing, making prep lists for the next shift, pulling the occasional item from the freezer and giving notes to the sous chef about what the morning prep crew needs to work on will all set the stage for success or failure the following shift. Fortunately, John had taken care of business at closing, but as he quickly re-assessed his inventory and reviewed reservations for this evening he noticed that he neglected to put two of his sauces on the morning prep list. Now, in addition to his normal work (that he was behind on) he would need to build these sauces that required lots of attention.

John set-up his workstation, adjusted his prep sheet, put a quick edge on his knives, pulled supplies from the walk-in and began to tackle what was on the list. He knew that the sauce work must be approached first so after cutting a mirepoix he began to caramelize the ingredients. He deglazed the vegetables with some carry over pinot noir from the bar, added the rich veal stock from the morning prep box, build in a handful of fresh herbs, dropped the flame to a simmer and moved on to other prep. The finished sauce base would be used for two variations of a demi-glace and would still be difficult to finish by 5:30.

Now John was faced with his normal prep as he was already running 45 minutes behind. He would need to puree shallots, slice garlic, oven dry plum tomatoes, chopped parsley and fines herbs, clarify 10 pounds of butter, blanch and shock vegetables, turn potatoes, prepare shiitake and porcini mushrooms for sauté, clean scallops, score the skin on snapper for sauté, and the list went on and on.

At this point in the late afternoon, every cook was totally focused on his or her individual station. Kitchens during this short, but intense period of time run like out of control machines. People picking up their pace, the music in the background no longer a point of focus, half empty, forgotten coffee cups strewn about the kitchen, every burner cover with a sauce pot or sauté pan, mixtures of aromas from toasting pignoli’s to onions and garlic, and roasting peppers on open flames to parmesan crisp being pulled from an oven permeating the kitchen air. Nerves are on edge because everyone knows that once the doors open, there is no time to continue working on prep. This is the most critical time in a kitchen, what happens during prep will determine how the night goes.

Painted in WaterlogueJohn knows that it would not be appropriate to ask others for help at this point. He dug his own hole and he would need to figure out how to climb out. In the back of his mind he thought, he hoped, that Sara (always ready and organized) might be able to help him out at the 11th hour.

Of course, when things are this tight, Murphy’s Law kicks in (if something is left to go wrong, it will), and in an instant, John found himself even further behind. He forgot about those pignoli nuts browning (now looking as black as coal), and as he jumped to pull them from the oven, he picked up a wet towel and grabbed the handle of the pan. Steam burns hurt more than any other since they seep below the surface of the skin and draw a cook’s attention for the next few hours to the throbbing impact of a deep skin burn. John dropped the pan; burnt pignoli spread over the floor, and immersed his hand under a stream of cold water. After a few expletives, he returned to his workstation with an ice bucket for occasional hand immersion. The beat goes on. The chef walked by and only shook his head as he moved about his own work.

The dishwasher swept up the burnt pignoli nuts and pan as no one else in the kitchen acknowledged John’s dilemma. They stayed focused on their work.

Somehow, John managed to get the majority of his mise en place ready. It was now 20 minutes before service and things were coming together except the organization of his station and the finishing of the two sauces. The chef was due to walk through very soon and a look of panic was creeping over John’s face. He looked over at Sara, who was clearly ready to rock on the grill. She looked at him, smiled and simply nodded. Sara took over on the sauces, straining, reducing, adjusting seasoning, and monte au beurre. She managed to wipe down John’s station, fold his side towels, and line up his sauté pans in the oven for pre-heating just as the chef was walking the line.

Sara gave John a fist bump as their eyes met. John simply said, “Thanks, I owe you.” The chef smiled as he nodded to Sara. He knew that in the end, teamwork always saves the day.

There were still a few minutes before the first ticket arrived in the kitchen. Time for each line cook to force down a five minute attempt at staff meal, kick back an espresso, fill water jugs and listen to the chef give a brief pep talk. This would be a busy night. Somehow, John managed to make it and once again learn how important it is to be prepared, be on time, and work with his exceptional team of warriors.

If you are a line cook, or have been one in the past, this brief story is one that you have lived many times- another day in the life.

PLAN BETTER – TRAIN HARDER

Harvest America Ventures, LLC

http://www.harvestamericaventures.com